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Scotsman (Barrowland)
Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 03:16 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i got the chance today of copelandia cyanescens spores but i dont know the easiest tek to start with , i been used to brf cakes but i know i need to start studying another tek to get it right with these shrooms.........thanks all advice greatly appreciated
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Toad (Toad)
Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 04:11 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Check out mushmush.nl, they have a good cyan. tek with pictures.
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Ellis_Dee (Ellis_Dee)
Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 07:09 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

try this
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 04:34 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Panaeolus Cyanescens


Someone Posted:
Can these babies be grown successfully using the PF Tek/MMGG method?
Reply by none other then Ambrose

Disclaimer: *For informational purposes only*
Hello,
Yes, pan cyan (aka Copelandia cyanescens) can be cultivated using the PF tek/MMGG, but there will need to be some slight adjustments in the substrate. The following formula works well:
1 cup vermiculite
1/8 cup brown rice flour
1/8 cup ground wild birdseed
1 1/2-2 cups finely shredded straw
water--enough to achieve the proper moisture content
To prepare the mix, first shred the straw using a shredder, mower or, if you are energetic, use a large grass clipping shears. The pieces should be 1/4"-2". Also, the straw should be soaked 12-24 hours prior to use (drain well when done). Mix the vermiculite and the flours together in a large bowl adding enough water to achieve the right moisture. Slowly add the straw and mix the ingredients very well (important step). The mixed substrate is best loaded into wide-mouth quarts (you can shake em' up then
[ED. NOTE: only fill quarts 2/3's full and use a filter disk/polyfil plug in the lid for inoculation/air exchange]) but wide-mouth pints and 1/2 pints will work. Sterilize 30min. at 12-15 P.S.I. Inoculate the cooled jars via spore syringe or mycellial slurry. Once colonization is complete, crumble the substrate into a suitable container (tray) and case with a thin (1/4") layer of moist peatmoss/limestone. --------------------->
6 parts peat moss
1 part limestone (not dolomitic)
2 parts vermiculite (pre-moistened)
For a larger yeild, a person can take the process one step further and use the crumbled "cakes" to inoculate a larger amount of pastuerized straw.
All strains of P. cub will work with the PF tek, but the "amazonian" strains seem to do best. The problems you will have with most strains are low yeild and delayed fruiting. This can usually be greatly improved by simply casing the cakes in a tray.
Just passin' by,
-ambrose-
P.S. *hehe* my writing style is almost machine like. Strange...


Use Birdseed spawn to inoculate pastuerized straw. Mix well and pack into a clear tray and cover the top with tinfoil (punch a few small holes with a needle for ventilation). For the spawn run temp, around 80-86 deg will provide the fastest growth. Once colonization is complete (this species is FAST-often only 1 week is needed) case the tray with a thin layer of sterile peat/lime (4-6 parts peat, 1 part limestone). Now the casing shouldn't be too thick-just enough to cover the surface. Recover the tray with tinfoil and allow the casing to become colonized (check it in about 1-2 days). When you see the mycel. peekin' up, remove the tinfoil and place the tray into a humidified grow chamber. Temps should be around 73-75 deg. F. Within one week the trays will EXPLODE with fruits They will be small but very potent-nice inky blue stains here and there. Piece of cake. Yes, Pan cyan needs a casing layer. The recipe that works the best for me is: 6 parts peat moss (pick out any small sticks, etc...) 1 part limestone (not dolomitic) 2 parts vermiculite (premoistened). I usually put the mix in wide mouth quarts and sterilize for 20 minutes at 15 P.S.I. But, since pan cyan grows so quickly this may not be needed....You decided. The casing doesn't need to be very thick...1/4 inch is plenty. As for the substrate: Pastuerized straw works very well. The depth of the substrate should be 3"-6". • ambrose-


Response to a post:
You are correct, Pan cyan likes warm temps. It will do very well under the same environmental parameters as P. cubensis. The mycelium is very fast growing, fine at first and then cottony at maturity. I wouldn't say that the mycelium is anymore fussier than other species. Plus, the fast growth reduces the chance for competitors to take hold.
THESE POST BY AMBROSE >>> Seems like he's had some great luck with this species ;-}
I would like to personally thank Ambrose for shareing your valuable information at differnt boards, its people like you that take the time to share the information, that making growing exotic species possible. Peace my friend....;-}

This is extremely crude, but I hear it works Prepare a spore syringe using the prints. Prepare PF Tek type jars, it is not necessary to use as much substrate as you usually would. Inoculate the jars, using plenty of spore solution. Grow the jars out somewhere warm. Mid 90's seems to work fine. Wait until they are fully colonized and give them a couple more days. Get yourself some fresh cow or horse manure (a dried out cow patty worked fine) mix with a little vermiculite and water to get the proper moisture. You want about 2 cups of shit cake. Nuke it in the microwave, or pressure cooker. Put some wet perlite in the bottom of a plastic container, shoebox size works great. Crumble the shit and a colonized cake together over the perlite. This should be covered, placed somewhere dark and warm until it is colonized, about 6 days. Case with a thin layer of properly moistened peat moss/calcium carbonate mix. Definitely less than 1/2" thick. Give it a couple of days then introduce light from a florescent or window light. Give it fresh air, but keep the humidity high. Lower the temperature a little if you can. Expect a couple of large flushes which start in less than two weeks, and are about 3 days apart. See the image forum for pictures, and the exchange forum if you would like a print dropped in the mail. The above is for informational purposes only, the spores are sent for identification purposes only. Sorry, but I will not be answering questions, I'm certain there are more knowledgeable people and or aliens that can answer your questions in this forum. POSTED BY Pseudoname

Does any one have any suggestions about growing Copelandia cyanescens/ Panaeolus cyanescens?Any help will be appreciated. THANK you.
Heiki posted 08-08-98 05:28 PM ET Reading what's in Stamet's TMC, Panaeolous (Copelandia) Cyanescens could most likely be done using the Timothy Hay Cob method which can be found in the Find or Grow Them section here at the Shroomery. The substrate temperature for the spawn run and post casing/pre-pinning phase is 79-84 farenheit. The air temp range for primordia formation and cropping is 75-80. Casing layer should be 1/2 to 1", and all the usual humidity rules apply, etc... Comments taken without permission from Stamets' TMC: "This rapidly growing species fruits readily on pasteurized straw provided a thin layer of casing is applied (1/2 inch). No more than one week passes from the time of casing to the first flush.
Although the fruitbodies are small, the flushes are typically abundant. The degree of bluing seems to vary with the strain and substrate." If you're growing/planning to grow some of the more exotic species, I highly recommend making the investment of purchasing a copy of Stamets' book. Covers *everything*(except perlite!). Wonder if Panaeolus would grow on cased birdseed?

Mickey posted 08-09-98 05:15 PM ET I have seen a few reports here and there using a few substrates. One report mentioned using spawn to innoculate pasturised manure, cased with peat/lime casing. These were the Hawaiian strain, and were said to be very strong. Another report was using compost, with the same results as the manure. The most recent report I read mentioned growing it on straight rye with a sterilised potting soil from the hardware store. These were reported to be much larger than the average Pan. I suspect it would do as good or better on the birdseed. Not many folks growing these potent fungi- I'm sure that will change as more information is exchanged.


Psilocybe Azurescens and Psilocybe Cyanescens
Sorry I don't have a lot of info on this mushroom yet. Its the most potent mushroom in the world and very common in the Astoria, Oregon area. Lets build this section up fellow shroomers.

Here is some great information sent in by Workman
Panaeolus cyanescens and Psilocybe cyanescens are not the same mushroom. They are not even closely related. This is a common mistake because they have the same species name. The Generic name (or first name) is the important part. To make it even more confusing, some taxonimists place tropical Panaeolus into Copelandia. So Panaeolus cyanescens and Copelandia cyanescens are the same while Psilocybe cyanescens is something else entirely.

Psilocybe cyanescens is actually a sister species to Psilocybe azurescens and was previously considered to only be a larger form of P. cyanescens. Since they are so closely related, they share the same growth parameters and substrate preferences. They even grow in the same types of habitat. So any tips on how to grow one should be totally transferable to the other.
It is also known that Growroom has sold cubensis prints labeled as azure (ask ambrose about this). It would seem that the mislabeling of prints is a common and profitable practice. I would like to see a list of sites that have sold confirmed azures and a black list of those that have sold fake azures. This may be hard to do since it is apparent that many growers consider what ever mushroom sprouts up from a purchase print is what it is supposed to be. Talk to ambrose, since he has tried most of the places that sell azures.
One last thing. Pictures of the fakes would be fun and educational. A picture of growrooms "azures" and the B+ would be a good start. I can provide the B+ pictures. This would help people compare what they have grown with real and fake azures.
Personal note from the author of this page
This brings up a very good point, about fraudulant mushroom spores and another reason for this page, education on these great musrhooms. If you have any doubt of the musrhooms that sprouted up, that you thought were azures or cyans, please consult the pictures on these pages, and let me know if you find a scam. Thanks.

Posted by Annon
I bought my spores from the grow room about a month and 1/2 ago, streaked spores on PDA"potatoe dextrose agar" spore germination took 5 days till the first sign of growth, dishes were kept at 75 degress, first sign of rhizomorpic growth "ropey strands" on day 9. I then cut only the rhizomorpic strands out of the dishes and put them onto 10 fresh plates. 6 days later i had 9 plates with only rhizormorpic growth on them 1 plate was lost to contaminantion.day 15 perpared my grain in 1 quart mason jars adding 1 tea spoon of calcium to each jar, 8 jars were perpared. I sterilized the grain at 15 LBS for 45 min. ,the following day i cut 2 inch wedges out of the dishes and inculated the jars.day 19 shook the jars to help spread the growth. day 23 the jars have reached full growth. Next step i soaked cardboard over night "10 sheets total ,draining them the next day. I put the cardboard in a rubber maid tub with a aquarium heater held the temp. at 80 degress. day 31 cardboard engulfed with rhizomoric growth . Next i bought hardwood chips from wal mart , i layed the cardboard in trays called mini greenhouse i also bougth at wal mart "remind me to thank them" and covered them with 2 inchs of wood chips temp held at 80 degrees. day 41 wood chips are completely covered with mycelium. I then droped the temp to 65 degress and removed the lid's from the trays, a plastic tent was maid to house the trays and used a cool mist humidifer for humidity kept about 85% day 46 the trays show massive pinning even some early fruiting bodies witch i pulled out so the pins would get all the nutrients day 50, hundreds of mushrooms . text book azurescens little "flying saucers " as far as the potency i ate 8 full grown mushrooms , giving me many colors, good trails, even some breathing walls . im sure theres a easier way of growing these mushrooms but im still left with 6 plates o mycelium 6 jars and 2 more flushes all and all suscess!

I germinated azures on MEA media and grew rhizomorphic sections out. Transfered slices to grain jars (2cups millet dry weight). These jars grew out in 30 days @70 deg.F. and were transfered to soaked rippled cardboard. These strips of wet card-board grew out in 15 days. Next, I placed the innoculated cardboard at the bottom of a 2*2 sqfoot hole about 8 inches deep. This fungus pit was built under a shaded and protective balcony. I covered the pit with soaked ceder mulch ( i ve since tested ceder mulch for azure. growth, it seems to grow fully threw it, but I still do not know if pins will form and mature.) The pit was then sealed with a plastic tarp and leftalone during june july and aug. till being uncovered the first week of september. I'm currently waiting for the temperature to drop to 50deg.F.. The bed seems to have grown all the way through with thick rhizomorphs. If it fails to pin in the next few weeks I ll probably case it with a mix of compost and alder mulch. Has anyone ever used ceder garden mulch to grow azurs? if so what were the results?

A suggestion from a post by Ambrose
This is sort of a combination of different ideas that I have read about both here and other websites.I have not heard about anyone actually trying this with azure. Here goes: A large, somewhat deep clear rubbermaid container with holes drilled on the bottom was filled with a 2-3" layer of moist sand (the inside bottom was lined with a layer of "weed block" fabric to prevent sand from escaping). Next, 2 fully colonized bags of woodchips/sawdust spawn was crumbled into the container and leveled. A moist casing (peat/lime) was applied and sprinkled with a thin layer of pre-soaked rye-grass seed + a bit more casing to lightly cover the seeds. The actual casing was purposely applied unevenly---some places 1 1/2 " thick, other places only 1/2 inch. The container is now loosely covered and lightly misted now and then. In about 1 month when the grass is growing well and the cool, humid fall has arived, I plan to set the container on my back porch at night (or whenever the conditions seem right--esp. when it is raining).

potent these particular mushrooms are. The temperatures at night were around 53F for several days before I noticed the fruits. My success with this outdoor patch may have to do with the way I made it. Instead of innoculating a bed of woodchips with spawn and letting it colonize naturally over the spring and summer, I planted fully colonized chips that I first sterilized in a pressure cooker. The combination of low temperatures, high humidity under shrubs and a completely colonized substrate may be the reason for the early fruiting. >>>>>>> I don't believe the heat is a problem, just make sure its planted in the shade. Its a fairly tolerant species that should easily survive 100F air temps for several weeks if not months if kept out of direct sunlight. Try sticking a thermometer in the soil in likely areas for a patch. Soil temps are generally several degrees cooler than the air temperature. Anything in the low 80's should be fine. What you really need is a period of cool temperatures around 55-33F. As long as the temperatures remain within this range, you should get flushes.
>>>>>>>>>>.post by Workman>>>>>>>>


pike
posted 04-20-98 10:59 AM ET

The proposed method is "planting" a row of oak chips 2'x12'. Covering the growth with plastic during initial phase and then watering during summer dry spells. The climate seems pretty good here(upper-midwest) except for the humidity, this could be helped with the spraying and some taller green plants on the edge of the strip. Does this seem logical?

Also, if the ground remains frozen for 4 months of the year would this kill of the azures every winter and need to be "replanted" in the spring?

Mark
posted 04-20-98 02:05 PM ET

Hello Pike!!!
Ahhh.........it's that time of year again!

From the looks of it, you already have the process figured out. Covering the bed during the colonization period is a good idea. Not only does it hold in moisture, but also keeps CO2 levels high--which stimulate mycellial growth. One thing, the problem with plastic is that condensation tends to build up underneath it and this could result in surface contaminants. Another potiental problem is heat-buildup. This can be avoided by having a well-shaded bed. I have, in the past, experimented with many types of covers--plastic, cardboard, shade-cloth, etc... Here is what I found to be the best. It really is a combination of different covers used at various intervels of the life-cycle. For spring when the temps are still on the cool side, I use cardboard covered with tarps (or plastic). This helps hold in the heat and prevents down-pours from soaking the bed. Also, make sure the patch is located in a well-drained area. During the summer when the temperature starts to rise, I remove the plastic (avoids heat-build-up) and replace it with shade cloth. Because it is somewhat dry around my area, I like to keep the cardboard layer. But.....your climate may be different, so experiment a little. Sometimes, "powdery mildews" like to form on the surface of the bed during colonization. If this happens, remove the covering and allow the surface to dry out alittle. Watch out though, mildews are fast growing. To avoid surface mildews, I like to cover the top of the bed with a 1 inch layer of completely dry woodchips. This helps alot. Then when you do your once-a-week (or whenever needed) watering, just allow the top-surface to dry before you replace the cover.

I highly recommend establishing companion plants around the patch. Be creative with your choices. I like to use tall grasses towards the front (good wind block) and taller growing ferns towards the back. The main idea is to choose plants the help screen the sun, block out the wind and keep the humidity high around the ground-level.

The 4 month freezing period you mentioned should be no problem...But, you may want to cover the bed with loose straw and tarps just as a precaution.

I don't know of any sources for outdoor cultivation on the net. Both of Paul Stamets books contain good info. Also, Paul is releasing a new book on outdoor cultivaion soon. According to Fungi Perfecti, it should be out this spring.
Good Luck
-mark-


Mark
posted 04-21-98 06:48 AM ET
Hello,
I always use spawn directly inoculated (mixed in) onto woodchips, but I always sterilize woodchips first in autoclave bags in my pressure cooker. I really prefer this method because you can colonize a 5-7 lb. bag of woodchips in under 2 weeks....only in one week if you use birdseed spawn. But, if you where to do the same thing to unsterilized woodchips, as Ansty pointed out, contamination might result. The type of spawn you use also would have an effect on the outcome. Nutrient rich grown spawn would likely contaminate. Sawdust spawn supplemented with bran (ala Eric's guide) might also have a high rate of contamination. Unsuppelmented sawdust would work the best. This is what I use for outdoor inoculation with great success. But, the competitors outdoors are usually other wild "weed" mushrooms instead of the mold comtaminants found indoors. So, it might work.....experiment and post your results back.
Good Luck
-mark-
Hope we hear more from you soon Mark! Thanks for sharing the information.

Anonymous post:
Dosage: as little as 1 dried gram will give you 1st level trip.

Taste: If you've had Blu Cheese salad dressing, that's kinda close. At least the ones I normally eat are similar to that. I like the taste, myself, and I don't need anything to cover it up. *munch munch* :)

Price: Since they are so powerful, they are normally about $30-$35 U.S. dollars for 3 grams. (that's an eighth, for all you stoners out there. :)

Length of experience: You will feel them kicking in about 1 hour after you munch 'em down, just like most shrooms. My experiences have normally been about 7 - 8 hours long. Hmmm... probably due to the strength.

I have always been *amazed* that all the popular shroom pages have practically no info or photos of the Strongest shroom of them all.
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Scotsman (Barrowland)
Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 06:42 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

thanks hip i was kinda waiting and praying for your intervention so to speak but here the first of my many questions.
Semi Sterilize.....is this possible and is 1 hour enough .
Straw and birdseed....petshop i take it ? , wild birdseed is this the 1 they feed budgies?
Peatmoss\limestone\peatmoss....garden centre ?
Be prepared for more questions
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 12:51 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

semi-sterilize = pasturize.

Quote:

Pasturizing is a form of sterilizing the compost or dung in less then boiling water to eliminate many non-beneficial bacteria unhealthy to mushroom mycelia. There are many methods of doing this, but here is what we recommend. Take your dung or compost and put it in an old pillow case, then tie it in a knot. Get a large pot, something like 22-30 quart and fill it with water. We always recommend againts tap water, spend $.50 cents and buy a gallon of filtered drinking water. Fill up your pot of water to about 8-10 inches from the top, turn up the heat on your stove. You want the water temp between 160F-180F, which usually is steaming heavily, but not boiling rapidly. Put in your mother-in-laws pillow case full of dung, push it down a bit, and let the hot water absorb into it. The temp of the water will drop for a while, wait it will build back up. When it does, let it pasturize for a good 45 minutes and turn off the heat. It will take a while to cool down. When its cool enough, take it outside and let it hang for a day to drip water and cool off. Not to worry, the outside air is good and healthy for it . You can let it sit there for several days if you dont have the time to get back to it.




correct on the materials you listed and possible sources.
try to avoid birdseed with whole sunflower seeds.
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Scotsman (Barrowland)
Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 02:43 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I am gonna go with the Ambrose tek because that sounds easiest today i got straw , seed and lime so i am almost there , i read at the shroomery to semi sterilize boil your jars 3 nights on the trot for half an hour at a time so as to kill contams that survive the first boil , that sounds a good idea , sunflower seeds has my choice got them in it cause i dont know what a sunflower seed looks like , peatmoss...i could see 100% peat but nothing that said peatmoss , what other plants would you use peatmoss with roses perhaps , heres i couple of snaps of my buys to check them out
this feels like a new challenge because i have only used brf cakes of which i dumped 10 over the last few days due to contams but i feel confident because of the help available here....thanks
1
11
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shwilly (Shwilly)
Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 04:21 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yo scotsman Sunflower seeds are the black ones
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Scotsman (Barrowland)
Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 05:05 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

its only 1\8 of a cup so its no problem to pick them out its just that peatmoss i am not sure of
its strange strolling into the pet shop to check things out people think your a pet lover when in actuall fact i am a shroom lover , i was in a big supermarket yesterday looking for a jar for my fishtank heater and i was holding a toothbrush against certain jars to see if the heater would fit in , i tried to sort of hide it but i just went for it and i did notice me getting a few strange looks
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Scotsman (Barrowland)
Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 12:32 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Could be , should be the last question before sterilizing , as i am following the first tek by ambrose well i cut up my straw ground my seed and put the straw in a tshirt soaking in a bucket for 24 hours , the description there is enough for 3x 250ml jars , it says add water for proper content any idea how much , is it to be just as moist as making brf cakes making it roughly 3\4 of a cup , i wanna get past the jar stage i dont want to be messing thing up eary
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 12:56 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i think about 1/2 a cup should do it,
but seed is kinda tricky,
might have to adjust water +/- a bit to
get it perfect.
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Fuz Factor (Fuz)
Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 03:05 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Can anyone tell me if the Panaeolus Cyanescens is
the same little brown mushies that grow on the oregon/washington coast? very sweet 4 hour high?
cause a friend of a friend says those are awesome.
and if so where can he get spores?
THANX ALL,
PEACE,
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ralph (Ralphster44)
Posted on Tuesday, July 02, 2002 - 10:23 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

here is an easy Tek...
http://shroomery.org/findorgrowthem.php?View=docs&doc=129
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 02:21 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cultivating Panaeolus (Coplandia) Species..Trops or Cyanescens
By: ralphster44


Quote:


You will find your cultivation efforts very similar to cultivating any Cubensis strain.
I have tried several different substrates and my substrate of choice is Pennington’s brand Finch seed. It seems to colonize quicker and with less problems.

Lightly boil your seed in water for 45 minutes or an hour. Let it steep, to absorb as much water as it can. Then put in a colander and rinse with tap water to wash off all the dirt and nasty sludge. A strainer would probably work better.
Let drain for 15 minutes. The seed should have absorbed all the water it can, you don't want any extra water in the substrate.

Load your jars, ½ pint jars work great. Leave room at the top for a layer of vermiculite. Pressure cook your jars for 1 hour at 15 psi. the time starts when the PC reads 15 psi.

I punch 4 holes in the lids of my jars and turn the rubber so it faces up.
Seal with aluminum foil….now pressure cook them.

When the time is up….turn off the heat…let your jars cool overnight.

Using the "oven-tek" remove your jars from the PC and put on oven rack.
Take your ready made syringes and..1 at a time…inoculate your jars. Wipe your needle between jars with a napkin containing alcohol. Shake the syringe between injections to distribute the spores evenly.

Once all your jars have been inoculated…store them at about 80-85 degrees until fully colonized.
The mycelia of the Pans is fine..and very fragile. Once they are fully colonized…let them sit for another week.


OK…the good part…..

Use a plastic tray…Mix all your spawn with zoodoo/compost or dung/compost. I use 8 jars to 5 pounds of that. If you use any store bought compost…strain out all the wood,…sticks..woodchips..etc.
You can nuke your dung/compost in a microwave for 10 minutes.
If you have obtained dung or compost from a garden…Pasteurize it.

Once you have done all this…cover your trays and let them sit for a couple days. Now…check out your trays….do you see mycelium growing?
If so…what I do is…case them with a layer of the same dung/compost. Use about a ¼ inch only. Give them a GOOD misting and give them light.

Now your back to the regular Cubensis teks….fan and mist as necessary.

This is an easy way to explain this…I have tried all kinds of substrates and compost mixes, but this will work real good for you.
I have posted my results..in pictures before…and I'm sure you have all seen them.

Fruiting temps are about 75 degrees. Some would argue…but the results show the flushes. The potency is fabulous.
Rye is also a great substrate..very good potency also.
The Pan Trops are fantastic..but I seem to find that the Cyans are more potent.

If anyone would like to see all the pics…from casing to full blown fruiting…you can email me([email protected])…Ill send you a ZIP file of all the stages.
This is an excellent shroom!!
I have sent out a couple hundred prints…trops and cyans…so …try this method and let me know the results.
I'm sure you will have success with this method….




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Scotsman (Barrowland)
Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 07:20 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

this was the first tek i looked at and said this is the 1 but i needed more info on the jars , how much in each 250ml jar ,1\2 cup verm +1\4 cup seed ect , i got everything for the ambrose tek then if i get it right ralphs tek shall be next
thanx..........
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Vitti (Vitticeps)
Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2002 - 11:51 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

no mixing of verm and seed in the jars, verm only for a contam barrier at the top. Just cook the seed ala his tek and put in jars with a little verm for protection at the top and that's it. No adding water or anything. hardest part is cooking the seed just right so it fully hydrates without bursting.
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Scotsman (Barrowland)
Posted on Friday, July 05, 2002 - 03:03 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I mixed 10 jars and have semi sterilized them 3 times for 1` hour at a time lossing 1 to water getting in.
This semi sterilize shit is pissing me off i made up 14 brf cakes and lost 6 to water getting in so its time to buy glass jars and a pc , but where do you get them here ? I emailed the links from here to see how much to ship 12 or even 24 to Scotland so i shall wait and see .
Back to my project before i S\S i taped the side of the jars and taped up the holes but after 1 hour the jars are going all out of shape like a vacum inside , this in its self is not a problem but are the jars still getting sterilized even with the holes taped
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Scotsman (Barrowland)
Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2002 - 02:18 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

using Ralphs tek will i get away with using wild bird seed and why must there be no sunflower seeds in it , will i get away with them being in it .
i have got 7 done using the first tek but now with a few glass jars and a pc i am going to try the 2 teks
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2002 - 03:35 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

a few sunflower seeds are no big deal, but the hulls are hard to get sterilized, and many have reported that the hulls are a source for contams to start from, so remove what you can or used the already hull-removed kind.
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Scotsman (Barrowland)
Posted on Monday, July 15, 2002 - 01:13 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

the jar at the front was inoculated on 6\7\02 the other 2 were done a few days later , the front jar and jam jar are straw , brf , wild bird seed the other is wild bird seed boiled for 1 hour then 1 hour in the pc , the jar showing the signs was semi sterilised over 4 nights for 1 hour per night then i went out and bought the pc but at least i am showing signs.......
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Nan (Nanook)
Posted on Monday, July 15, 2002 - 02:55 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Kewl
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Monday, July 15, 2002 - 04:11 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

why did you add straw, if i might ask ?
also, those jars should have only been 2/3's full,
so you could shake them up to speed colonization.
of course that means no verm. barrier so a filter needs to be in the lid, polyfil etc.
they'll still work,
it'll just take longer.
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Scotsman (Barrowland)
Posted on Monday, July 15, 2002 - 05:21 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

the first tek i followed seemed the easiest and that tek included shredded straw , reading the tek again i see , shake em up , again i never realised shake em up means exactly that,
i got a verm barrier so that helps , i done 5 of the plastic type 2 jam jars and 4 of ralphs birdseed tek so i shall wait and see ,
in 2 weeks time i am going away for 2 weeks to Crete so i am trying to time it so there ready for me coming back
and you better believe all the help is most humbly accepted
the jars seemed easier than i thought is the next stage that sorta scares me , in all my time here i have only ever done 1 casing , which failed so i been reading all the old and new stuff trying to get prepared for the next episode..........smoke weed everyday......
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Monday, July 15, 2002 - 05:48 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i edited in a note about filling the jars in that tek, to prevent further confusion.
i'm sure you'll find casing easy enough,
just be careful to follow all of the instructions exactly.