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Pan Trops - 1
Pan. Cyans/ Trops. on worm castingsFishy1Fishy111 1 10-03-01  01:53 am

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Admin (Admin)
Posted on Thursday, August 23, 2001 - 12:13 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

growing Panaeolus Tropicalus and Panaeolus Cyanescens.

Version 1.0

This is a document of collected knowledge from our own experience with pans and talking with other growers. Thank you everybody for your input over the years. More to come

Its well known this is not a very easy species of mushroom to grow, but it can be done, and is done quite often. Just count on a little extra work and some TLC.

Ok, for starters, if your using a spore syringe, inoculate your substrate jars of 3:5 ratio of ground brown rice to vermiculite or 2:1 of finch or birdseed to vermiculite. If your using agar with a spore print, then your obviously experienced and we dont need to go into much detail there. After your substrate is inoculated, you will see a very thin and wispy mycelium. Its not thick and rhizomorphic and healthy looking like cubensis mycelium. On agar, it actually looks like contamination its so strange looking. Sometimes very spongy looking, and wispy looking on agar. Strange stuff man. In jars, the mycelium is almost a light grey color, yet off white, and very thin. It almost looks like cobweb mold its so thin. At times it will even grow what appears to be primodorma and pins, but its not. Its just a very strange looking mycelium at this stage. So unless you start seeing strange colors other then white or a light grey, its ok, just go with it.

Typcial colonization of 1/2 pint jars is around 3-4 weeks. Sometimes faster, but allow them to sit a week after full colonization. You'll see why when you break open the jars and pull the substrate out. It breaks apart very easy. Once again its a weak mycelium. Be sure your handa are very clean, as this mycelium easily contaminates.

The next step is to use that substrate as spawn to colonize either dung or compost. Compost is your best bet. Dung is the next choice. A lot of old books recommends straw, well straw also works but it contaminates much easier on straw then dung or compost. This is not just our opinion, but from many growers we've talked with gave up on straw and pan species. So from here, either buy or make some compost, or go out to your local cow/horse/donkey/elephant field and shuck some patties. So you know how your always leaving your girlfriend at home while you go have fun? Well you need a helper, its time to bring her on a field trip This is a great cover up for where you go on those field trips when you disappear Doh!

If you can find farms that have straw or grain fed animals you have some prime realestate to grow those pans on. If you dont know what they are feeding the cows and are not aware of what they are eating, we recommend you kneel down and sniff the patty! A prime pile of dung will have a nice organic aroma to it.

Stay away from fresh steaming patties. You want the ones that are aging a bit. There are to many micro-organisms on the fresh patties that can kill the spores, plus they 're sticky and they stink. You dont want these. There are some great pictures on our website under the panaeolus species of some Manatee County Florida Panaeolus Cyanesecens growing on dung. These are the best pictures we've seen yet showing clarity of how old the dung is when these mushrooms are growing on them.

Ok, so you and your gal are out in the field under the full moon feeling romantic collecting dung. She's happy she's out of the house, your happy because your bucket is full of dung, time for a bud. Your choice, weiser or herb.

The next step is to prepare your dung. Usually its pretty hard when you pick it right. Toss it in a big bucket and poor in a gallon of purified water or more, so its covered in water, and let it sit for day to soften up. Next step, a day later is to pasturize your dung or compost.

Pasturizing is a form of sterilizing the compost or dung in less then boiling water to eliminate many non-beneficial bacteria unhealthy to mushroom mycelia. There are many methods of doing this, but here is what we recommend. Take your dung or compost and put it in an old pillow case, then tie it in a knot. Get a large pot, something like 22-30 quart and fill it with water. We always recommend againts tap water, spend $.50 cents and buy a gallon of filtered drinking water. Fill up your pot of water to about 8-10 inches from the top, turn up the heat on your stove. You want the water temp between 160F-180F, which usually is steaming heavily, but not boiling rapidly. Put in your mother-in-laws pillow case full of dung, push it down a bit, and let the hot water absorb into it. The temp of the water will drop for a while, wait it will build back up. When it does, let it pasturize for a good 45 minutes and turn off the heat. It will take a while to cool down. When its cool enough, take it outside and let it hang for a day to drip water and cool off. Not to worry, the outside air is good and healthy for it . You can let it sit there for several days if you dont have the time to get back to it. When your ready to work, here we go with the next step.

Ok, were assuming your have knowledge of casing your substrate. Take your dung or compost from your MIL's pillow case and take handfulls and squeeze it real hard until the water is barely dripping. You dont want a lot of water in it or it will be to soggy and contaminate to easily. Squeeze it until the water is barely dripping, and place it in your casing container. Get the desired amount for the space your working with. Take those jars of substrate and start gently crumbling them up with your pasturized compost or dung. Mix it well. We recommend about 3 to 4 1/2 pints of subtrate for every 10 lbs of compost. Or, a semi-full pillow of dung or compost, add about 2 1/2 pints of subtrate worth. After its mixed well, then add a casing layer. Pans seem to like hydrated lime in the soil. The 50/50+ mix works well. They grow well with the verm/peat/lime/oyster shell mix. Within 2-3 weeks of casing they should start fruiting. Now all the old school books say they like temps around 70F-75F, well, that is not written in stone. In the tropics where they grow, the temps are much warmer. We've seen them grow at a daytime high of 93F, which means substrate temps of 95-96F, and a LOW of 70-75f. There has not been a lot of information posted about this species that is updated, and we hope what we have given you helps. There is a lot more to come, this document will continue to grow and nothing is written in stone. This species is well worth the time and efforts because the experience from Panaelus species is PHENOMENAL !!!!
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Admin (Admin)
Posted on Thursday, August 23, 2001 - 12:14 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Pan Cyan 101

Substrate recipe:

5 cups of vermiculite
3 cups manure
10 tablespoons of brown rice flour
2 cups of water

This will make 10-12 half pint jars of substrate.

Since there is manure already in the substrate you will not have to worry about colonizing manure later. This greatly reduces the risk of failure(contamination) and also reduces cultivation time.

Boil/preassure cook jars of substrate as usual, and innoculate in the usual manner.

When jars are fully colonized, slice/crumble the substrate over a moist layer of vermiculite. Casing is NOT required, but I like to case with composted manure. Case them very thinly(1/8-1/4 inch), just enugh to fill in the cracks and crannies and just so you can't see substrate. Basically just enough to make a nice even layer, instead of a lumpy one. 50/50 casing mix also will work fine.

If you can grow cubes using a casing method Trops(Cyans) are a breeze! They are Faster to grow and MUCH more potent than cubes, and every bit as easy!!

Again casing is NOT required but it won't hurt, just case them thin(no more than a 1/2 inch, less is faster).
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Admin (Admin)
Posted on Thursday, August 23, 2001 - 12:14 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Cultivating Panaeolus (Coplandia) Species..Trops or Cyanescens
By: ralphster44

You will find your cultivation efforts very similar to cultivating any Cubensis strain.
I have tried several different substrates and my substrate of choice is Pennington’s brand Finch seed. It seems to colonize quicker and with less problems.

Lightly boil your seed in water for 45 minutes or an hour. Let it steep, to absorb as much water as it can. Then put in a colander and rinse with tap water to wash off all the dirt and nasty sludge. A strainer would probably work better.
Let drain for 15 minutes. The seed should have absorbed all the water it can, you don't want any extra water in the substrate.

Load your jars, ½ pint jars work great. Leave room at the top for a layer of vermiculite. Pressure cook your jars for 1 hour at 15 psi. the time starts when the PC reads 15 psi.

I punch 4 holes in the lids of my jars and turn the rubber so it faces up.
Seal with aluminum foil….now pressure cook them.

When the time is up….turn off the heat…let your jars cool overnight.

Using the "oven-tek" remove your jars from the PC and put on oven rack.
Take your ready made syringes and..1 at a time…inoculate your jars. Wipe your needle between jars with a napkin containing alcohol. Shake the syringe between injections to distribute the spores evenly.

Once all your jars have been inoculated…store them at about 80-85 degrees until fully colonized.
The mycelia of the Pans is fine..and very fragile. Once they are fully colonized…let them sit for another week.

OK…the good part…..

Use a plastic tray…Mix all your spawn with zoodoo/compost or dung/compost. I use 8 jars to 5 pounds of that. If you use any store bought compost…strain out all the wood,…sticks..woodchips..etc.
You can nuke your dung/compost in a microwave for 10 minutes.
If you have obtained dung or compost from a garden…Pasteurize it.

Once you have done all this…cover your trays and let them sit for a couple days. Now…check out your trays….do you see mycelium growing?
If so…what I do is…case them with a layer of the same dung/compost. Use about a ¼ inch only. Give them a GOOD misting and give them light.

Now your back to the regular Cubensis teks….fan and mist as necessary.

This is an easy way to explain this…I have tried all kinds of substrates and compost mixes, but this will work real good for you.
I have posted my pictures before…and I'm sure you have all seen them.

Fruiting temps are about 75 degrees. Some would argue…but the results show the flushes. The potency is fabulous.
Rye is also a great substrate..very good potency also.
The Pan Trops are fantastic..but I seem to find that the Cyans are more potent.

If anyone would like to see all the pics…from casing to full blown fruiting…you can email me([email protected])…Ill send you a ZIP file of all the stages.
This is an excellent shroom!!
I have sent out a couple hundred prints…trops and cyans…so …try this method and let me know the results.
I'm sure you will have success with this method….

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Admin (Admin)
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2003 - 04:15 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

simple pan tek.
by eatyualive

1. get spores from ralphster
2. inject pf jars
3. presoak straw overnight in water, i use tapwater!
4. now drain straw, then mix with some black angus composted cow dung in yellow bag.
5. the mix is roughly 50%dung/50% straw, i sometimes add a little verm
6. now just add water until it is at a good moisture content. say one drip when squeezed between hands. u can also refer to the pan tek on
7. mix well using plastic gloves, then stick into a filter patch bag from www.
8. seal with an impulse sealer and then pc for two hours
9. now, prep a fork by boilin it for about 10 mins. then dry off with clean paper towel.
10. now use a flowhood or glove box and spawn the pf jar into the dung/straw using the fork by scraping it into pieces. fishy taught me this technique so give him credit.
11. seal bag with impulse sealer, then mix up bag and make sure mycelia touches everywhere.
12. once colonized, prepare a tray with aluminum foil in the bottom. this is for cleaning purposes after tray is spent. dump bag in and spread( using plastic gloves) then apply a 50/50 (i use sterilized 50/50 with nondolomitic lime)casing and allow to colonize like any other casing.
13. cold shock overnight and then birth once the tray has fully colonized.

now, with pans sometimes they get overlay or have a fast fuzzy-cottony looking growth in the casing layer. u can scratch with a sterile fork if this happens. but cottony is very good and healthy for pans.

it should take, no more than 3 days for the pans to colonize a 1/2" casing layer. this is true to all pans, cambos, cyans and trops. otherwise i would think something is wrong bc it hasn't ever taken me more than 3 days to colonize a casing with pans.
eatyualive's invitro pan