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Dunno Yet (Dunnoyet)
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 05:26 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The class was about an hour and went very well. Big thanks go out to MT, for hosting our first class; to ridder, for being a great moderator, and to all who participated. Stay tuned for future classes. coco :D

*****START SESSION*****
[@Ridder] Welcome to #Mycology 101 Lesson 1: Composting. The format of the class will be as
follows. The class will be moderated, meaning only those with Operator status or Voice status
will be allowed to post. MT, our current guest speaker, will give the information to the class in
small portions followed by a period of Q&A. Any questions you think of during the chat need to be PMed (/msg command) to dunnoyet, who will pick the best q's and send th
[@dunnoyet] got cut off ridder, gonna have to paste smaller
[nazgul357] well he's not here yet
[@Ridder] where did it get cut off at?
[nazgul357] send th
[@Ridder] and send them to me. At the appropriate moment I will voice the owner of the question and allow the that person to ask that question plus any relevant follow ups. After a few questions, we will continue to the next section. Any questions?
[nazgul357] where is MT
[nazgul357] i bet the class doesnt happen
[@dunnoyet] he's coming
[@Ridder] he's here
[pupil] lol
[@Ridder] OK here we go!
[@Ridder] i am moderating the chatroom now
* Ridder sets mode: +m
* Ridder sets mode: +v MycoBot
[@Ridder] :)
[@Ridder] Please send all questions to dunnoyet
[@Ridder] via /msg
[@Ridder] Ready MT?
[@Ridder] and now ladies and gents, for your reading pleasure, the ever knowledgable MT!!!!!!!
[@dunnoyet] hehe
[@MT] hehe
[@MT] kewl
* @Ridder turns the microphone on
[@MT] Well, you guys know this is about compost..why compost? Compost is truely the perfect source for mycel. growth. You gotta understand how mushrooms eat, and then make it easy for them to thrive with the dinner you serve..Mushrooms eat completely the opposite than we do..We eat say some stromboli(mmmmm) ...and get energy from it as it digests..Mushrooms actually digest their food without eating it, by breaking it down outside the cell walls, the
[@Ridder] cut off mt
[@Ridder] at "the cell walls, the"
[@MT] k
[@MT] the cell walls, then absorbing the nutrients.. That is why compost is such a perfect
medium for mushrooms to thrive in...
* Ridder changes topic to '/motd for donations *** Composting class is IN SESSION. *** If you
are here for the class, please let an Operator know if you want your nickname changed when the
Class Transcripts are posted @ Mycotopia *** Please start making "Informative" threads from
chat, changing nicknames for protection'
[@MT] It's 100% organic material, that has already been broken down, and creates the easiest,
most effecient food source for mycel. growth..Lets call it the escargo for mushrooms..
[@MT] I have been making compost for mushroom cultivation for some time, and have my own recipe,
but sources for carbohydrates, nitrogen, and minerals are many, and there are literally
thousands of recipes..
-Ridder:#mycology- Don't forget to send any questions to dunnoyet via PM
[@MT] You must have a carbohydrate source--Wheat straw is probably the best known one, and easily obtained..oak leaves...even corn cobs are other sources..I use wheat straw, some oak leaves, and cottonseed meal..
[@MT] Next is nitrogen sources
[@MT] The manure's I use are Horse, and cow manure mixed..I have never personally used this, but
understand poultry manure to be another good source for nitrogen.
[@MT] I also use Gypsum..Helps to keep the texture of the compost fluffy..once it has
composted completely, and seems to add to the amount of water the compost can maintain..
[@MT] My own personal recipe for making a compost pile..
[@Ridder] before you move on
[@MT] yes
[@Ridder] i am going to open up the forum for questions
[@MT] sure
* Ridder sets mode: -n
[@Ridder] any questions anyone?
[@Ridder] nows yoru chance to ask
[@Ridder] :)
* dunnoyet sets mode: -m
* Ridder sets mode: +n
[@Ridder] sorry wrong mode change
[@Ridder] hehe
[@Ridder] :)
[@dunnoyet] hehe
[pupil] y does the texture have to be fluffy?
[@Ridder] I can answer that one
[@Ridder] If it compacts, it will generate too much heat
[@Ridder] and kill everything in the compost
[@Ridder] including the good microbials we want
[@Ridder] correct MT?
[@MT] After it's already composted completely, you want a light, fluffy texture to the compost, it will speed up colonization of mycel
[@MT] yes
[pupil] thnx :)
[@Ridder] good point
[@Ridder] any other q's?
[@Ridder] please don't be shy folks
[@Ridder] send any q' at any time to dunno
[@MT] I would like to be able to list
[@Ridder] and we'll interject the q' at the righ time
[nazgul357] i dont have ant
[starflyer] what exactly is gypsum, and where do i get it?
[nazgul357] i am druk
[@MT] all of the various organics that ca be used for nitrogen, and carb. sources
[@dunnoyet] lol, naz
[@Ridder] MT?
[@MT] ok
[@MT] np
[@MT] ever hear of gypsum board???
[nazgul357] no
[starflyer] yes sheetrock
[@MT] there you go
[@MT] it can be bought seperate
[@MT] but I simply use sheetrock
[starflyer] isn't it calcium carbonate though?
[pupil] thats limestone
[@MT] that is another thing
[starflyer] oh ok
[@Ridder] Ok if there are no more q's we will continue.
[@MT] hehe thing
* Ridder sets mode: +m
[@Ridder] remember send your questions to dunno and we'll voice you to ask it
[@Ridder] :)
[@MT] Ok, I figured I would share my own recipe with you guys for making compost
[@MT] but believe me, there are many variations that anyone can use
[@Ridder] why don't you start with the basic ingredients you need?
[@Ridder] by category?
[@MT] Yes
[@MT] really there are 3 basics
[@MT] Wheat straw(carbohydrate)
[@MT] Manure(nitrogen)
[@MT] and gypsum
[@MT] I use the following recipe
[@Ridder] gypsum being a texturizer
[@Ridder] an inorganic material
[@Ridder] correct?
[@Ridder] much like what vermiculite is to a PF cake
[@Ridder] :)
[@MT] thats a good way to describe it, yes
[@Ridder] :)
[@MT] 1 & 1/2 bales wheat straw
[@MT] 3/4 bag (30 gallon garbage bags) of oak leaves
[@MT] 4 lbs Cottonseed Meal
[@MT] these are the carb.'s I use
[@MT] I use 20-- 5 gallon buckets of horse manure, so 100 gallons of horse manure
[@Ridder] That's a lot of shit :)
[@MT] The same, 100 gallons cow manure
[@MT] hehe
[@MT] Between 20 & 30 lbs of gypsum
[@Ridder] how much weight are we talking about total
[@Ridder] before pasteurization and then after?
[@MT] Hmmm
[@MT] I couldn't say
[@MT] I never actually weighed it
[@dunnoyet] "Horse manure is richer in nitrogen than either cow or hog manur and is much more
prone to fermentation. For this reason it is frequently referred to as hot manure." - The
Complete Book of Composting
[@Ridder] probably not important yet
[@MT] with water added, and all
[@Ridder] i mean then not yet
[@MT] nice dunno
[@dunnoyet] another book i'm taking to the beach, hehe
[@MT] hehe
[@dunnoyet] i'm such a geek
[@Ridder] ok so we have all of our materials, how do you pasteurize so much? do you mix it and
then do it in batchs?
[@Ridder] or pasteurize each material separate?
[@MT] Well, my understanding that poultry, and hog manure are used as well
[@Ridder] i'll shut up and let you continue :)
[@MT] but I have never wished to use them
[@MT] My secret ingredient is--(and I use molasses on every layer about 3 gallons total)
[@Ridder] we have a q' MT
* Ridder sets mode: +v Highflyer
[@MT] When making a compost pile, I suggest if it's a moderate sized pile, to lay plastic down,
and building on top of it..
[@Ridder] From HighFlyer
[@MT] ok
[@Ridder] go for it HF :)
[@dunnoyet] he had asked what the consistency of gypsum was :)
[@Ridder] you are voiced so go ahed and ask HF
[@Ridder] that works too :)
[@MT] Depends in what form you get to use
[@MT] I look at it like this
* Ridder sets mode: -v Highflyer
[@Ridder] [Highflyer] is it possible for compost being able to generate enough heat that it will
kill off beneficial organisms...doesnt this happen at over 140 degrees F
[@MT] actually no
[@MT] at 160 degrees
[@Ridder] correct
[@Ridder] 160
[@Ridder] and yes it can develop this much heat
[@MT] anything higher will kill off beneficial bacteria
[@MT] sure
[@Ridder] in fact compost can create SO MUCH HEAT that it will actually combust
[@Ridder] which is why you need to stir it
[@MT] yes
[@MT] well, i use sheetrock because its very cheap, so consistency is powdery, to little chunks
[@MT] as it comes apart for me
[@MT] When making a compost pile, I suggest if it's a moderate sized pile, to lay plastic down,
and building on top of it..
[@MT] ..Unles your making an enormous pile..The plastic will keep all of the nutrients where we,
and the mycel. wants them, in the compost..
[@dunnoyet] you should use the plastic for the winter too right?
[@MT] yes
[@Ridder] ok so we have all our ingredients listed.. what do we do with them MT?
[@MT] so nutrients dont get washed away
[@MT] getting to that now
[@MT] Several days before I am going to start a new compost pile, I mulch my wheat straw, oak
leaves, in a 55 gallon drum, using a weed eater
[@MT] This doesn't have to be done, I do it because it speeds up composting, and the straw is
nearly vanished when its done composting
[@MT] chopping it up
[@MT] I meant
[@Ridder] HighFlyer - Both dunnoyet and myself got your messages and responded to you
[@MT] .I then mix in the cottonseed meal, and water, until its all very damp, but not soup..I
just leave it in there until I'm ready to start..
[@Ridder] i think yo uare having client issues
[@MT] Making the pile...
[@MT] ...I simply start off by layering it
[@MT] ...I simply start off by layering it
[@MT] lol
[@dunnoyet] hehe
[@MT] ..First the moist wheatstraw/oak leaves, cottonseed meal, then molasses
* Ridder sets mode: +v Highflyer
[@MT] then a layer of the manure,
[@MT] molasses
[@MT] love molasses
[@Ridder] the impurities add nutrients?
* Ridder sets mode: -v Highflyer
[@MT] its an excellent source of carbohydrates
[@MT] and not as bulky as using extra staw
[@MT] , then gypsum,
[@MT] molasses, and i pour 1/2 gallon of water over that layer
[@dunnoyet] is that your grandma's idea? molasses?
[@dunnoyet] hehe
[@MT] , then back to straw, then manure, then gypsum, and water, until i run out, and ya Molasses between each layer..
[@MT] hehehe
[@MT] actually, someone hinted me to it some yrs ago, and just keep using it
[@MT] .The hardest work is over now..The pile has its own work to do..
[@Ridder] ok
[@Ridder] i' am going to open up the room for questions
[@MT] sure
* Ridder sets mode: -m
[@Ridder] ask away peeps :)
[@Ridder] any q's?
[@dunnoyet] yeah, we need to go over how to keep the compost pile from becoming a fire hazard
[@Ridder] definitely but not tonite :)
[@dunnoyet] hehe
[@Ridder] ok peeps, no q's?
* Ridder sets mode: +m
[@Ridder] keep on keepin' on MT :)
[@MT] The pile will begin to heat up at its core after about 2 or 3 days
[@MT] , I usually open to the core and check temps on the fifth day
[@MT] When the core reaches temps of 150-160, I do the first turning
[@MT] easiest way is to remove the top half to the side
[@MT] then sides to the middle
[@MT] and what was the bottom, to the top
[@MT] in short you want the outter most parts of the pile to be the inner most on each turn
[@MT] When doing a turn, I check for very dry areas, if I find any, i wet them down a bit
[@MT] After first turning, allow another 4-5 days to pass, checking core temps on 4th day
[@MT] usually by the 5th day, pile will reach 150-160 degrees, and another turning
[@MT] same as before
[@MT] core to the top, sides to center
[@MT] top to the bottom
[@Ridder] ok lets open up for q's
[@MT] ok
* Ridder sets mode: -m
[@Ridder] OK people ask away
[@MT] I'm about to the end of it
[@Ridder] do you want to finish up
[@Ridder] and havea final q&a?
[@MT] not if someone has a q
[@Ridder] no one in particular
[nazgul357] b oo ya
[@MT] sure, we can do this
[nazgul357] oh shit
[nazgul357] i can talk
[@Ridder] yes
[@Ridder] that is for the q & a
[@Ridder] ok
[@Ridder] i am going to re-moderate
[@Ridder] so MT can finish
[nazgul357] lol
[nazgul357] i wont talk
* Ridder sets mode: +m
[@Ridder] np naz just a formality
[@Ridder] it isn't as important
[@Ridder] when ther is less than 20 people here
[@Ridder] but once you have 30-40+ people
[@dunnoyet] interesting tidbit from the composting book ... "It is worth noting that the urine of most animals contains more nitrogen and more potash than the solid excreta."
[@Ridder] you need the moderation during a class
[@Ridder] so if you are drunk and feeling roudy, go pee on your compost?
[@Ridder] :)
[@dunnoyet] lol
[@dunnoyet] your compost pile will thank you :)
[@MT] After the saecond turning, the pile should begin to show area's that have composted, kind
of deep dark brown
[@Ridder] doesn't it have an earthy smell to it?
[@robopuppy] i thought the chemicals and shit that's in human waste is detrimental
[@Ridder] if it's composting at the right temp range?
[@MT] well, atthis point yes, and no
[@Ridder] still early
[@Ridder] too early
[@Ridder] ?
[@MT] still a little farmer fresh there
[@MT] hehehe
[@Ridder] please continue MT :)
[@MT] Just repeat the turning process when core temps reach 130 degree's and up
[@Ridder] what do you use for testing the coor temp?
[@Ridder] i am assuming some form of probe
[@Ridder] not a regular thermometer
[@MT] always being sure core is top, sides in, and bottom to the top
[@MT] I have a thermometer that might have been ment for a cow
[@Ridder] oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooh
[@MT] cause its a long sucker
[@MT] hehehe
* @Ridder puckers up
[@Ridder] ok so almost done?
[@MT] but I know a landscaper that uses a digi thermometer
[@Ridder] when do we know the pile is ready?
[@MT] 2 ways
[@Ridder] i have a perfect thermometer actually
[@Ridder] it is a probe thermometer for cooking roasts
[@Ridder] digi one
[@Ridder] that has a metal probe you stick in meat
[@Ridder] on a metal wire that is aobut 6 ft long
[@Ridder] that connects to a digital readout
[@MT] first, core temps drop below 130
[@Ridder] with a timer and alarm
[@MT] kewl
[@Ridder] ok so the anerobic bateria use up all the energy they have
[@Ridder] and they start dying?
[@MT] yes
[@Ridder] that sounds like a good sign
[@Ridder] converted to simpler starches and sugars
[@MT] and the compost(its now compost) Ph level is around 7.5
[@Ridder] and it has that definitive earthy smell right?
[@MT] that is ideal Ph levels for mycel colonization
[@MT] yes
[@MT] very deep earthy smell
[@MT] no more farmer fresh
[@Ridder] ok and at that point we are ready for the next lesson!
[@MT] then, its simple as pasturing(though it already has inside the pile) and spawning to
[@Ridder] tune in again when MT does his next class, how to make a compost bed outdoors to grow our fungi friends!
[@Ridder] :)
[@Ridder] right
[@Ridder] pasteurizing
[@MT] yes
[@Ridder] :)
[@Ridder] because we have let the process go to the point we want
[@Ridder] any any more woudl be detrimental to our goal
[@Ridder] correct?
[@MT] yeppers
[@Ridder] so lets do the pateurization process quickly
[@Ridder] :)
[@MT] No problem
[@MT] Easy pasturization method as follows for compost:
[@Ridder] [pupil] wont you have to turn the pile more once myc. has started 2 grow since it makes more heat?
[@MT] noooooo
[@Ridder] pupil - we haven't added mycelium at this point
[@Ridder] we are preapring the substrate only
[@MT] this was just to make compost
[@Ridder] if there was any mycelium pasteurization would kill it
[@MT] thats a big pile of compost
* Ridder sets mode: +v pupil
[@Ridder] any other q's about it pupil?
[@Ridder] you are voiced
[@Ridder] so ask away here
[@Ridder] :)
[+pupil] i mean once you start to grow it, since temps reach 160 on their own
[+pupil] wont it have 2 b turned since the myc temp is ading 2 it
[@Ridder] once the compost is ready
[@Ridder] the bacteria that kept the temps high
[@MT] screen the compost(I use fine chicken wire) to get the big rocks, or whatever found its way in there
[@Ridder] have died off
[@Ridder] so you won't reach those temps any more
[+pupil] ok
[@Ridder] :)
* Ridder sets mode: -v pupil
[@MT] put alum. foil on a cookie sheet, and pour screened compost onto it
[@MT] wrap it up into a compost log, so to speak
[@MT] and insert a thermometer into the center of the log/compost
[@MT] turn oven on to 160 degrees
[@MT] put log into oven
[@Ridder] OK guys i have to go
[@MT] check thermometer, and once it reads a core temp of 160, bake it for 2 hrs
[@Ridder] company came over early
[@MT] ok
[@Ridder] good luck MT
[@Ridder] the class has been great
[@Ridder] :)
* Ridder is now known as RidderAWAY
[@MT] then, its pasturized, just add distilled water to moisten it a bit, and spawn to it
[@dunnoyet] later ridder :)
[@MT] see ya ridder
* RidderAWAY sets mode: -m
[@RidderAWAY] you are basically done so i am going to open things up
[@RidderAWAY] ttyl
[@RidderAWAY] :)
[@MT] yep
[@RidderAWAY] ask away peeps
[fahtsgone] yo yo
[pupil] what happens if the compost combusts
[fahtsgone] dunno?
* fahtsgone is now known as faht
[@dunnoyet] you're in deep doo-doo
[@dunnoyet] hehe
[faht] lol
[@MT] hehe
*****END SESSION*****
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Erebus (Debremus)
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 09:33 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Awesome resource, thanks for sharing
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 01:22 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

nice.
still, i think it could/should be edited a bit more to smooth it out for easy reading.
would you like me to edit it,
to show what i mean ?
take out all the non-topical remarks, for example.
it's a good start, though,
and i appreciate it.
thx for sharing.

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Dunno Yet (Dunnoyet)
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 01:46 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

yes, that would be great hip. it is a bit hard to read. i tried to log in to reformat it a bit but my time was expired, hehe. thx.
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Boomer (Boomerstank)
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 02:07 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Progress is being made, information is being shared. Sorry I missed the first class guys, I'll make sure I make the next one!!!
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 02:42 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

how's this for an edit ?
*************************************************

The class was about an hour and went very well. Big thanks go out to MT,
for hosting our first class; to ridder, for being a great moderator, and to all who participated.
Stay tuned for future classes. coco :D

*****START SESSION*****
Welcome to #Mycology 101 Lesson 1: Composting.

[@MT] Well, you guys know this is about compost..why compost?
Compost is truly the perfect source for mycellia. growth. You gotta understand how mushrooms eat,
and then make it easy for them to thrive with the dinner you serve
..Mushrooms eat completely the opposite than we do
..We eat say some stromboli(mmmmm) ...and get energy from it as it digests.
.Mushrooms actually digest their food without eating it, by breaking it down outside the cell walls,
then absorbing the nutrients.. That is why compost is such a perfect
medium for mushrooms to thrive in...
It's 100% organic material, that has already been broken down, and creates the easiest,
most efficient food source for mycellia. growth..Lets call it the escargot for mushrooms..
I have been making compost for mushroom cultivation for some time, and have my own recipe,
but sources for carbohydrates, nitrogen, and minerals are many, and there are literally
thousands of recipes..
You must have a carbohydrate source--Wheat straw is probably the best known one, and easily
obtained..oak leaves...even corn cobs are other sources..I use wheat straw, some oak leaves,
and cottonseed meal..
Next is nitrogen sources
The manure's I use are Horse, and cow manure mixed..I have never personally used this, but
understand poultry manure to be another good source for nitrogen.
I also use Gypsum..Helps to keep the texture of the compost fluffy..once it has
composted completely, and seems to add to the amount of water the compost can maintain..
My own personal recipe for making a compost pile..

[pupil] y does the texture have to be fluffy?

[@Ridder] I can answer that one If it compacts, it will generate too much heat
and kill everything in the compost including the good microbes we want
correct MT?

[@MT] yes
After it's already composted completely, you want a light, fluffy texture to the compost,
it will speed up colonization of mycellia


[starflyer] what exactly is gypsum, and where do i get it?

[@MT] ever hear of gypsum board???

[starflyer] yes sheetrock

[@MT] there you go it can be bought separate but I simply use sheetrock

[starflyer] isn't it calcium carbonate though?

[pupil] thats limestone

[@MT] Ok, I figured I would share my own recipe with you guys for making compost
but believe me, there are many variations that anyone can use
really there are 3 basics
Wheat straw(carbohydrate)
Manure(nitrogen)
and gypsum
I use the following recipe...

[@Ridder] gypsum being a texturizer an inorganic material correct?
much like what vermiculite is to a PF cake

[@MT] thats a good way to describe it, yes
1 & 1/2 bales wheat straw
3/4 bag (30 gallon garbage bags) of oak leaves
4 lbs Cottonseed Meal
these are the carb.'s I use
I use 20-- 5 gallon buckets of horse manure, so 100 gallons of horse manure
Between 20 & 30 lbs of gypsum

[@Ridder] how much weight are we talking about total before pasteurization and then after?

[@MT] I couldn't say I never actually weighed it

[@dunnoyet] "Horse manure is richer in nitrogen than either cow or hog manure and is much more
prone to fermentation. For this reason it is frequently referred to as hot manure." - The
Complete Book of Composting


[@Ridder] ok so we have all of our materials, how do you pasteurize so much? do you mix it and
then do it in batches?
or pasteurize each material separate?

[@MT] Well, my understanding that poultry, and hog manure are used as well
but I have never wished to use them
My secret ingredient is--(and I use molasses on every layer about 3 gallons total)
When making a compost pile, I suggest if it's a moderate sized pile, to lay plastic down,
and building on top of it..


[Highflyer] is it possible for compost being able to generate enough heat that it will
kill off beneficial organisms...doesnt this happen at over 140 degrees F

[@MT] actually no at 160 degrees

[@Ridder] correct 160
and yes it can develop this much heat

[@MT] anything higher will kill off beneficial bacteria sure

[@Ridder] in fact compost can create SO MUCH HEAT that it will actually combust
which is why you need to stir it

[@MT] yes
well, i use sheetrock because its very cheap, so consistency is powdery, to little chunks
as it comes apart for me
When making a compost pile, I suggest if it's a moderate sized pile, to lay plastic down,
and building on top of it..
..Unless your making an enormous pile..The plastic will keep all of the nutrients where we,
and the mycellia. wants them, in the compost..

[@dunnoyet] you should use the plastic for the winter too right?

[@MT] yes
so nutrients don't get washed away
Several days before I am going to start a new compost pile, I mulch my wheat straw, oak
leaves, in a 55 gallon drum, using a weed eater
This doesn't have to be done, I do it because it speeds up composting, and the straw is
nearly vanished when its done composting
chopping it up I meant
I then mix in the cottonseed meal, and water, until its all very damp, but not soup..I
just leave it in there until I'm ready to start..
Making the pile... ...I simply start off by layering it
.First the moist wheat-straw/oak leaves, cottonseed meal, then molasses
then a layer of the manure,
molasses
love molasses
its an excellent source of carbohydrates
and not as bulky as using extra stow
then gypsum,
molasses, and i pour 1/2 gallon of water over that layer
then back to straw, then manure, then gypsum, and water, until i run out,
and ya Molasses between each layer..
the hardest work is over now..The pile has its own work to do..
The pile will begin to heat up at its core after about 2 or 3 days
I usually open to the core and check temps on the fifth day
When the core reaches temps of 150-160, I do the first turning
easiest way is to remove the top half to the side
then sides to the middle
and what was the bottom, to the top
in short you want the outer most parts of the pile to be the inner most on each turn
When doing a turn, I check for very dry areas, if I find any, i wet them down a bit
After first turning, allow another 4-5 days to pass, checking core temps on 4th day
usually by the 5th day, pile will reach 150-160 degrees, and another turning
same as before
core to the top, sides to center
top to the bottom

[@dunnoyet] interesting tidbit from the composting book ... "It is worth noting that
the urine of most animals contains more nitrogen and more potash than the solid excreta."

[@Ridder] so if you are drunk and feeling rowdy, go pee on your compost?

[@dunnoyet] lol your compost pile will thank you

[@MT] After the second turning, the pile should begin to show area's that have composted, kind
of deep dark brown
Just repeat the turning process when core temps reach 130 degree's and up

[@Ridder] what do you use for testing the core temp?
i am assuming some form of probe
not a regular thermometer

[@MT] always being sure core is top, sides in, and bottom to the top
I have a thermometer that might have been meant for a cow
cause its a long sucker
but I know a landscaper that uses a digi thermometer

[@Ridder] when do we know the pile is ready?

[@MT] 2 ways

[@Ridder] i have a perfect thermometer actually
it is a probe thermometer for cooking roasts
digi one
that has a metal probe you stick in meat
on a metal wire that is about 6 ft long
that connects to a digital readout
with a timer and alarm

[@MT] first, core temps drop below 130

[@Ridder] ok so the anaerobic bacteria use up all the energy they have
and they start dying?

[@MT] yes

[@Ridder] that sounds like a good sign
converted to simpler starches and sugars

[@MT] and the compost(its now compost) Ph level is around 7.5

[@Ridder] and it has that definitive earthy smell right?

[@MT] that is ideal Ph levels for mycellia colonization
yes very deep earthy smell
no more farmer fresh
then, its simple as pasturing(though it already has inside the pile) and spawning

[@Ridder] pasteurizing
[@MT] yes

[@Ridder] because we have let the process go to the point we want
any any more would be detrimental to our goal
correct?

[@MT] yeppers
Easy pasteurization method as follows for compost:


[pupil] wont you have to turn the pile more once myc. has started 2 grow since it makes more heat?

[@MT] no

[@Ridder] pupil - we haven't added mycelium at this point
we are preparing the substrate only

[@MT] this was just to make compost

[@Ridder] if there was any mycelium pasteurization would kill it

[+pupil] i mean once you start to grow it, since temps reach 160 on their own
wont it have 2 b turned since the myc temp is adding 2 it

[@Ridder] once the compost is ready
the bacteria that kept the temps high
have died off
so you won't reach those temps any more

[+pupil] ok

[@MT] screen the compost(I use fine chicken wire) to get the big rocks,
or whatever found its way in there
put alum. foil on a cookie sheet, and pour screened compost onto it
wrap it up into a compost log, so to speak
and insert a thermometer into the center of the log/compost
turn oven on to 160 degrees
put log into oven
check thermometer, and once it reads a core temp of 160, bake it for 2 hrs
then, its pasteurized, just add distilled water to moisten it a bit, and spawn to it

[pupil] what happens if the compost combusts

[@dunnoyet] you're in deep doo-doo
[@dunnoyet] hehe
[faht] lol
[@MT] hehe
*****END SESSION*****
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Dunno Yet (Dunnoyet)
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 02:57 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

much better, go for it! i'll make it look prettier next time around. thx.
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 03:06 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

as boomer said,
progress is being made,
info is being shared.
very good indeed.
thx again.
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new_shroomin_guynyc (Jay)
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 05:41 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

we're currently in progress of thinking up other classes. Ridder has come up with the idea of hosting a class once every 2 weeks until the idea picks up and we have more ppl attentding them. I volunteered to cover a popcorn class. That will probably happen within a month. I wondering if there are any particular topics fellow topians would like to see a class on?
-Jay
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Techno-hippie (Technohippie)
Posted on Saturday, August 16, 2003 - 11:10 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)



Great Job guys!

TH
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 11:28 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


Quote:

I wondering if there are any particular topics fellow topians would like to see a class on?



print making
syringes from prints
flowhoods/gloveboxes

these 3 things determine independence.
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Shroomraider (Schroomraider)
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 12:54 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

How would you attend such classes? I think telling people how would be a good step in popularity. I think i remember seeing something about irc chat here but myself personally never used IRC before so dont know much about it. Alot of the commands are foreign to me.
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Hippie3 (Admin)
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 01:09 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

see http://archives.mycotopia.net/discus/messages/1/30172.html?1059748753
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Zap (Zap)
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 03:46 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

1 donwload irc program free at www.mirc.com install.

click this direct link to join sever and room:
irc://mycology.chat/mycology
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Zap (Zap)
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 03:46 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

1 donwload irc program free at www.mirc.com install.

click this direct link to join sever and room:
irc://mycology.chat/ direct link to join sever and room
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ridder (Ridder)
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 04:42 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

zap that won't workk.. mycology.chat is the internal server name but you can't resolve it externally.. you must use the ip address in the link hippie gave.
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Cygnus X 1 (Rufusdelta)
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 07:59 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Quick and easy mushroom growing 101 huh? Wonderful idea!!

Very resourceful info this thread generated!
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rodger rabbit (Skyypilot)
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 03:15 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Voice chat would make it go much faster and smoother. Is that possible there?
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new_shroomin_guynyc (Jay)
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 04:08 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I'm sure there are ways to get voice chat to work in mirc but it would be too chaotic to moderate. At least I believe so.

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