|Posted on Monday, August 25, 2003 - 12:51 pm:||
compiled by Phychotron
[edited slightly by yours truly]
Sourcing the poo:
poo comes from animals' bottoms. recommended poo types for mush cultivation are cow-poop and horse-poop, though a few other types get mentioned, like deer, rabbit and elephant. it's gotta be a herbivore. human poop is no good .
I read "If your a city slicker...you might find some horse poo at a local horse stable...if they have one. Or sometimes your local cops might have horses...ask them for some for your flowers. Or you could go buy some manure at your local Hardware store or a nursery...but you will have to be careful of what you buy...test a small amount out to see if it will work for you...and make sure it doesn't have fungicide listed on the bag."
and "get dried out poo in the warmer months and stock up for the wet season"
shirley knott's police horse poo tek:
1. follow police horses around public park. have plastic bags in pocket - several small and flexible (like veggies at the supermarket) and one opaque and heavy duty.
2. when horses shit, hang around. use small bag to pick up poo and place in big bag.
3. repeat until big bag heavy.
4. go home and grin to self.
preparing the poo
(this is the bit that needs most work)
pick off any rocks and foreign matter.
aged is apparently a bit safer since leaching out ammonia is unnecessary and also the bacteria your aiming to keep has been strongly established. fresh works perfectly well though.
though someone else said: "fresher poop has empirically stalled, contam'd or just plain not begun to colonize more often than not...when using fresh(er) poop, this dude I know suggests 'cutting' it with (a little more) straw."
and another poster said: "i actually use a combination of aged and fresh poo as i just take off across the pasture picking up whatever i come up on until my bag is full."
drying it: some have dried in the sun/air and some have dried in a box with a fan. some have even put it in the oven and baked the shit out of it...but this stinks to high heaven from what they said. it is a good idea to break the poo up as it dries which makes screening it far easier. You would want to break it up into small pieces at least the size of a golf ball...when you are drying it out. Then break a few open every now and then to check to see what the moisture level inside the poo is like. You want it completely dried out.
someone added this: "you know how aged dung starts to turn white? that is not just the dung you are seeing. i know because i have taken very fresh dung and dried it within a couple days and it is brown/green as can be. the white is the bacteria your wanting. it's called foxfire (actinomyces)"
when the poo is dry, you wanna leach it to get all the ammonia out, from animal piss. Soak the poo in water for about 24 hours and then drain it good. Then you should be able to pasteurize it.
some don't bother leaching - look, i found this: "The ammonia comments make sense but pasteurizing entails leaching and my dung source isn't some horse prison where the brothers stand all day in there own piss. The microbe activity of aged dung makes sense but how much activity is the in some dehydrated, aged crap. It seems the preference for aged/dried dung might be a habit more than anything. "
pasteurising the poo
You can get away with only pasteurizing poo because it has a number of beneficial microbes that keep that bad contams in check while the mycelium does it's thing. Vatoloco put it best:
"with a pasteurized substrate, you have a contingent of beneficial microbes and even some bacteria all vying for a piece of the action. while they're all battling for supremacy, each keeping the other in check, the mycelium shows up on the scene and macks them all."
Sterilizing poo will kill off these beneficial microbes and often leads to failure (contamination).
there is plenty in the faq already about pasteurisation. basically, you wanna get it to a temp where you kill some, but not all, of the bugs in it. you could put the poo into a pillow case, submerge in pot with water with a weight on top at 170°F for at least an hour. Don´t exceed 170°F, check the temperature frequently with a thermometer.
After 1 hour (+) take the pillow case out and use your oven rack on top of the sink. Put it on that and let it drain for several hours. When it has cooled down somewhat , give it a squeeze, as hard as you can. Then fluff it up and leave on the rack to drain/dry out a bit more. After it´s cold (might take several hours) you can spawn it.
remember, the more you've got (volume) the longer you'll need to leave it at 170F.
adding stuff to the poo
i saw it suggested to add straw to cow shit: "It gets a little runny looking...or muddy looking without adding some straw. Squeeze the cow shit out good...if you don't want to mess with straw...add some Verm to the cow shit!"
roadkill reckons:"you shouldn't have to add any straw to the horse poo. Straw is a waste of time....in my honest opinion.
I just worked with some Straw....and some Straw/Poo mix. The horse poo works better straight in my opinion!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
whereas anno, i think i remember, uses 10 straw:1 poo mixture. maybe he'll tell us.
6T says: "Wheat straw as a substrate generally colonizes very quickly & gives off one flush of good sized shrooms. Generally, any following flushes are rather pitiful. But, it is a great additive to any horse/cow manure mix, to bulk up da poo & give a poo substrate more aeration & paths for myc to colonize very quickly, along - in the substrate.
You can also beef up the nutrient levels in wheat straw & condition it via very simple & quick bio/degrading:Simply soak wheat straw in a dung/water filled tub, for a week, or so. Adding a cup of compost starter ($3 @ most garden supply stores) to the tub, hastens the process along. You can keep a tub like this going almost indefinitely. Whenever you remove some straw, just add more. There is no secret recipe. A couple shovels full of manure, a cup of compost starter, some water, a tub, some straw, a heavy object to hold the straw under the water -- mix the water - dung - compost starter, add straw, submerge & you are cooking. Suggest if possible this be done outside & without a lid. Just let nature take its course, for awhile.
Once bio/degraded a bit, simply drain & pasteurize (as you would poo alone), pasteurize some poo by itself & make around a 50/50 mix. Spawn with colonized grated cakes or WBS. Hold back some straight poo to top off the mix with & give the top a little extra spawn frosting, to get the top to colonize very quickly, as a protective cover for the mix underneath.
Once the top is fully colonized, give it a few more days, for the remainder to catch up. Then case with a pH adjusted casing mix, let the casing colonize to the degree you want & initiate pinning.
If ya can find rapeseed (canola seed)? Soaking in water overnight, then PC'ing it, then adding that to the mix, will give it some very rich delayed release nutes. Another good additive is to bring some pure vegetable oil to a boil on the stove, allow it to cool & add some to the dung/straw mix, just before you add the spawn. Again, no secret recipe on adding veggy oil. Just add some, but NOT so much, the mix gets or looks greasy. Just mix it in."
good old 6T.