|Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 10:09 pm:||
This is something that I have never tried but was thinking of giving it a whirl.
With a terrarium that is set up with a fish pump for air exchanges with 6 a day.
The exchanges are for 1/2 hour and spaced out over 24 hrs. Like 12:00 - 12:30,
4:00 - 4:30, and so on. Could the flourescent light be tied into this schedule
instead of doing 12/12 ? I was wondering if anyone has had similar experience.
I wonder if 1/2 hour of light totaling 3 hours over a 24 hour period will
produce the same results as far as production as 12/12 ?
|Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 11:01 pm:||
i see more correlation between pinning and the brightness of the light than i do with the light duration/interval.
so my hypothesis would be that your proposed schedule would give equal yields assuming the light was bright.
a dim light gives a much weaker pinning response and so cutting its' duration would seem likely to make pinning even worse.
|Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 11:06 pm:||
Good point hip
The light is a GE Bright stik about 3 foot over a plastic tub with a see through cover. Seems pretty well lit. It would be so much easier just to have one timer run the light and airpump every 4 hours at 1/2 hour each.
Whats your fav lighting sechedule hip, and anyone else? maybe compile a list of what different people actually use for schedules.
I appreciate all feedback
|Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 11:08 pm:||
I turn the light on when I wake up, turn it off when I go to sleep.
|Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 11:11 pm:||
i've gone to both extremes,
24/7 artificial light to ambient 'natural' light from windows.
seemed to make little difference so long as the light was bright.
interestingly enough, i once put some qts on shelves by a window and they all fruited much more on the sides facing the window while the side facing the darker room barely pinned at all.
Cygnus X 1 (Rufusdelta)
|Posted on Friday, August 29, 2003 - 12:41 am:||
My first timer was a 30 minutes minimum analog clock-like-thingie, it didn't work alright with the humidifier (ultrassonic for 30 minutes is a killer for a small terrarium) so I placed it on the gro-light, it worked in 30 minutes ON 1 hour OFF scheduled. It pinned alright all the time, can't really say that my light diminished my yield, but I might very well assume that it increased the yield without overheating.
|Posted on Friday, August 29, 2003 - 12:44 am:||
Id keep the light on for 2 hours thats more than you should need, then off for the rest of the day.
|Posted on Friday, August 29, 2003 - 11:17 pm:||
Hey Hip, I was digging through your archives and I found this.
Best light source for fruiting. (Experiment results)
The purpose of this experiment is to demonstrate the value of various lights in relation to pinning duration's and fruiting.
Types of lighting used:
100 watt High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
100 watt Metal Halide (MH)
100 watt incandescent Gro-Light
28 watt fluorescent
28 watt fluorescent ultra violet
The fluorescents are of a lower wattage, but remain at the industry standard for lumen comparison with incandescent.
The temperature was kept at a constant 77 degrees and humidity maintained at 95%.
Useable light energy for plant growth is measured in Micro-Einstein's which are micro-mols of photons per meter squared per second.
To maintain consistency during this experiment, the distance between light source and material was maintained at 300 Micro-Einstein's as measured by a borrowed Quantum reader. 300 Micro-Einstein's was chosen as this is the industry standard minimum for indoor plant growth.
10 half pint jars were prepared and inoculated. 3 cups vermiculite. 2 cups brown rice flower. 3 cups water.
Koh Samui was chosen for this experiment because it was readily available and quick colonization. This is my regular spore of choice for experimentation as I'm familiar with its growth characteristics.
All jars were inoculated at the same time from the same syringe using the same spore print. Cakes were chosen to maintain consistency and for easy viewing of pins.
Two jars each were used for each light source in the event of contamination.
The growing area was divided and each sampling was placed in a separate light proof area. Each light source was timer controlled and set to activate one hour every six hours for a total of four daily hours.
A brief description of each will be followed by the results and commentary.
100 watt High Pressure Sodium (HPS) - HPS lights are a brighter full range light with spectrums of white, blue, red and orange. Red and orange are most desirable for fruiting (or budding) plants using photosynthesis. The only problem associated with this light source was the intense heat associated with it. To maintain 300 Micro-Einstein's, a distance of 4.2 feet was necessary. To maintain 77 degrees, the exhaust fans were left on throughout the process and additional air-conditioning was used.
100 watt Metal Halide (MH) - MH lights are rich in white and blue spectrums desirable during vegetation of plants using photosynthesis. Heat was also a negative factor with the MH lamp and a distance of 3.8 feet was necessary to maintain 300 Micro-Einstein's. Again, constant exhaust fanning and AC was needed.
100 watt incandescent Gro-Light - Incandescent Gro Lights produce light spectrums of white, blue, red and orange. All spectrums necessary for vegetative growth and fruiting, but do so in tiny amounts. To maintain 300 Micro-Einstein's, a distance of 4 inches was necessary. A smaller fan was used to dissipate heat.
28 watt fluorescent Gro-Light - The light spectrum was almost identical to the incandescent, with slightly more white light which would benefit photosensitive plants during their vegetative state. The problem associated with this light source was the low lumen output. A distance of 1 inch was needed to maintain 300 Micro-Einstein's. At this distance, temperature was not of a negative issue because of the fluorescents efficiency.
28 watt fluorescent ultra violet - This was a true ultraviolet light source, not the "black light" bulb. Micro-Einsteins for this light source were measured at . 025. Maintaining the Micro-Einsteins minimum of 300 was not possible, but the bulb was still used and placed as close to the birthed cake as possible without touching. Less than a quarter inch.
My original hypothesis was that the lumen intensity of the HPS and MH would induce faster pinning, but was demonstrated wrong.
With the exception of the ultraviolet lamp, each of the remaining four light sources had near identical pin growth, timing and fruit completion. Pins for each were plus or minus 4.
Each pinned within 24 hours of the others with the fluorescent pinning first followed by the MH, incandescent and HPS.
The ultraviolet lamp slowed pinning and stunted carpophore growth.
For green plants that require photosynthesis an incandescent or fluorescent Gro-Light would work well with germination and seedling stages, but the low lumen output would create stretching of vegetative green plants as they grew taller in an attempt to gather more light.
For green plants using photosynthesis, they thrive with white and blue spectrums. A MH would serve this purpose well and would also produce acceptable lumens to reduce plant stretching. Fruiting green plants would thrive with a spectrum of red and orange. For this reason, switching to a HPS or supplementing with an HPS during fruiting of green plants would benefit most.
My findings for this experiment was that no light source had advantage over another in pinning or fruiting. Additionally, there were no noticeable differences in potency or yield.
I've been using a weak 50 watt incandescent bulb set to activate for one hour every six hours for a total of four hours daily. After my demonstrated results I will continue to do so as there is no advantage given to any tested light source.
Ainasko is my name backwards. I'm a girl!
In her experiment she states that she used 1 hour timed cycles spaced out every 6 hours totaling 4 a day.
So to me this proves that an air exchange cycle and lighting can all be tied into one timer eliminating the need for 2 (now thats if you run an automated style terrarium).
I did an experiment last night using one outlet from a dual aquarium air pump. I tied it to a trash bag (large like 55 gal) and set the air cycle on. It took around an hour to fill the bag up like a balloon. So this tells me that one hour definately displaces the air in a large plastic tub terrarium. Since I do casings, the slightly lower himidity is benificial.
For my setup, I feel that 6 1 hour cycles would be perfect, spread out over 24 hrs this is a cycle every 4 hours. Air exchange and lighting will happen for 1 hour during these cycles.
Sorry to ramble on about this, just my way of hashing out an idea, and I love any more feedback from fellow shroomies.
BTW Hip, your archives rock man
You still have archive CD's left? I need to get one.
P.S. Is that user still around the forums (Ainasko)? Would like a chat with her sometime
|Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2003 - 12:07 pm:||
yes, we still offer the cd for a $15 donation,
it includes the archives as well as the info forums.
just email hippie3 at mycotopia.net
have not seen ainasko in a month or so,
but she may pop by, who knows ?
try that email addy she left.
a pity she didn't include sunlight in her test.