|Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2003 - 04:51 pm:||
various tips gleaned from misc. threads
at grow stores there is a product that is sort of like fly papper. Its yellow
with glue on both sides you hang it around the problem area. Takes a while to get all the successive generations
used coffee grounds will drive them away
Ivory soap solution in a spray bottle. 1/4 teaspoon per quart. Hose the casing so you wet the top inch or so.
just dry the coffee and sprinkle it on the floor of the fruiting camber.
i haven't seen a gnat since i started using it last summer .
the soap is a good idea too .there is a brand called safer soap at the garden dept. its recommended for killing afids, spider mites, and whitefly
Fly Agarics (A. muscaria), when choped fine and put in milk (i know, contam risk, but i don't imagine milk is the only working option) attract flies. the flies (just about all flies) love the smell and taste of Amanitas, so they eat thier fill, become intozicated, fall in the milk (or alternative) and can't get out. because the ibotenic acid in the fly agarics is water soluable, they stay intoxicated untill they die. since flies who are looking for food have not yet reproduced, they stand no chance, soon the whole population is eraticated.
this use is actualy the origin of their nick-name.
Best bet is to not allow gnats into any grow area (no brainer).
Pasturize all substates WELL & do not store them where gnats can gain entry.
Draining a pillow case of wet pasturized dung, outside can self defeating. As the smell of steamy dung will draw them from miles away. The can actualy (IMHO) lay eggs through a pillow case. Once a substrate has eggs, in it. You are SOL.
Postive pressure air filtration of a grow area is a good way of keeping them out. If you can manage that.
2nd to Last defense line is an electric bug zapper. As in pic below.
Last ditch is covering colonizing substrate trays, with a polyspun polyester landscape clothe material (EasyGardener brand @ Lowes or HomeDepot 2 X 50 roll = $20), which is like a course filter disk material.
If you have an infestation in your grow room. You are SOL. They thrive & breed faster than you can KILL THE BASTARDS.
Best bet is trash can tek everything, bug bomb, disinfect everything & start over again. With every precaution you can muster in place. So the little buggers -- cannot get in.
Take a shot of any good ol' bourbon, put it in a shot glass or suitable container, and place it in the terrarium. They love the smell of the stuff, and drown themselves. Replace the bourbon until all are dead, and make sure to put one both inside and outside your terrarium, as you don't want any stragglers in your house to re-infect your substrate.
Combine this with used coffee grounds in your terrarium and they will(should) be out of your hair for a while.
a clear cup of yellow (food coloring) water with a touch of dish soap makes a good trap.
I used to spray my outdoor beds with pyrethrum spray and it killed the bugs and didnt hurt the fungi.
One other idea that I heard about and tried for fungus gnats is putting a couple few drops of peppermint oil in a quart or so of water and spray the gnat infested soil. This works on my salvia plants but I have no idea what peppermint oil would do to a casing.
At home depot, walmart and a few other places they have something called "misquito dunks". These are the same bacteria that is sold by some shops as a fungus gnat control powder. Crush some of them up and sprinkle it where the larva are present. And hang yellow sticky traps everywhere to control the adults. Your problem will soon be solved. The larva love to eat the bacteria, which makes there stomachs explode or something.
if what you are worrying about fungus gnats in your casing layer laying eggs or whatever just add diatomacous earth. Im sure I spelled that wrong but it is phonetically spelled good enough. Just do a simple search under organic gardening supplys, Im sure you will find it also most grow stores carry it. All it is is crushed up seashell that you add to your casing layer and it tears the larva to shredds. Keep the fruiting room clean and the casings are all they can live off which kills all there little children and use flypaper for adults. diatomacous earth is also used in swimming pool filters .
so it is accessible and relatively inexpensive .
and, since it is ph neutral, it could be spread directly on an infected casing .
This stuff works pretty well and doesn't seem to f-up a casing, even post-pinning.
Practically, though, it's best to just squeeze what you can out of casings-in-progress and then purge. Bleach.