Misc. Tips & Teks Return To Archives | Search

Please Visit Our New Forums at Mycotopia
Please visit our Sponsors

Mycotopia Web Archive � Archive � Liquid Culture: Karo/Honey/Dextrose Q&A � Misc. Tips & Teks � Previous Next �

ClosedClosed: New threads not accepted on this page
Topic Author Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Liquid Culture Inoculation Tek - 1
Karo Syrup Tek - 1
Questions??? - 1
The Teks - 1

Top of pageBottom of pageLink to this message

Nanook of the North (Nanook)
Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2001 - 01:06 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A general grow tip on Dextrose Jars... You need Dextrose (Corn Sugar), and a Glovebox

Dextrose, Karo, Maltose, Honey, or other Liquid Culture is the only way to go for producing inoculum. I never shoot jars with spores anymore, I shoot a jar with 250 cc of sterile dextrose solution (one level teaspoon dextrose powder in 250 cc RO Water) with 1-2 cc of Spores or Cloned Mycelia And in a few days I have more than enough inoculum, even plenty extra to experiment with. It blows the doors right off of Agar Culture.

That is: One Level Teaspoon Dextrose (or maltose) in 250 cc's Water.

You can use an empty syringe to measure out 100cc

I tried Polyfill Lids. This involves drilling a small hole in the dome jar lid, pulling polyester pillow stuffing (Wally Mart) up through the hole and trimming the excess. The jar is sterlized with a foil cap. To knock up the jar up you lift up the foil and insert the needle through the polyfill.

The problem with polyfill is that Cobweb and other Contams will grow through it if it gets wet, and it will get wet at some point. One contam and everything you shoot is screwed.

So I went out and got a box of brand new dome lids for a couple of bucks. I wrap up a few lids in foil and sterilize them along with some jars.

The dextrose (or honey) jar is made up and Sterilized with a solid dome lid, inverted so that the seal side is up (we don't want to can it) and the band screwed on loosely. Foil Cover of course. 20 min PC time

To shoot the jar I place it in the glovebox, remove foil, band, and lid, and shoot directly into the dextrose. I open a clean sterilized lid from the foil pack and place it on the jar mouth with the seal side _down_. Screw the band on tight and replace the foil cap.

To Clone you open the jar and drop in (or shoot with 9er Tek) a sample of macerated tissue. I use the same basic tek when working with Spore Prints: open the jar, tip the print tip give it a flick and/or scrape... Plenty of spores drop, rehydrate, and germinate... In a week (you have to Incubate for speed) you are ready to shoot dozens of jars... And store the excess in the fridge, it keeps for a good long time.

Dextrose jars prepared in this fashion can be shaken vigorously without leaking or contam problems. Everytime I open a dextrose jar in the glovebox I always replace the dome lid with a clean sterilized one, seal side down.

Also see: Clean Karo Tek : Karo Tek Story : Carmelized Karo : Honey Tek : Pure Culture

Nan

(Message edited by admin on June 25, 2004)

(Message edited by admin on June 25, 2004)
Top of pageBottom of pageLink to this message

Pierno Fuller (Pierno)
Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2001 - 07:07 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello I read the Honey Tek and it sounds interesting...yet I am not sure I understand it completley.

If you have one spore print--is it for the purpose of making more usable syringes?

If so, doesnt this decrease the number of spores in each syringe?

I f I am completley wrong..please fill me in on this exactly. Thank you.
Top of pageBottom of pageLink to this message

Nanook of the North (Nanook)
Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2001 - 01:02 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Honey/dextrose tek is a way to produce lots of storable inoculum. A single Spore Syringe (Go PF) can produce dozens and dozens of mycelial syringes for shooting jars. Properly done, one spore syringe will grow enough honey or dextrose inoculum to shoot hundreds and hundreds of jars in just a few days. It's worth the wait.

The tek is very easy. You take a pint or half pint jar, fill about halfway with Clean Water, add a bit of honey or dextrose. I prefer dextrose, AKA corn sugar, because the solution is crystal clear. Dextrose is cheap, and easy to get from any home brewing supply... Or www.Ebrew.com, Additives They also carry Lime & Gypsum on this page.

A quick recipe: one teaspoon dextrose in 250 ml purified water

Anyway, you Sterilize the jar with the honey or dextrose solution, cool, then shoot with about 1 cc of spores. You can also scrape a tiny bit of a print directly into these jars to start spores, or inoculate them by dropping or injecting a sample of macerated tissue removed from a shroom to produce Clone Inoculum.

Once the jar is inoculated it is sealed, Incubate, just like a Jar for 5-7 days at 87*F... Wahlah... You have many ccs of mycelial solution. Open the jar, draw up mycelial solution into a Sterile Syringe, shoot PF jars, shoot whatever else you want: rye, whole rice, birdseed...

It's cheap, easy, fast and I see no need to shoot jars with spores any more. I inoculate a dextrose jar, wait 7-10 days, and shoot with mycelial syringes. Do smaller batches, shoot more spores... they go faster.

Liquid culures of mycelia is storable... Pop it in the fridge it is good for many months. Sugar solutions are designed to run fast... Not last long. All you want is a quick few days in the incubator, then fragment the mycelia and shoot it. We are just growing out enough to increase the inoculum volume by a factor of 75-100. Then divide and shoot it ASAP. The inoculum takes 24 hours to recover in PF jars, looking just like a spore inoculation does at 5-7 days...

It is even more pronouced shooting liquid culture into 9er Tek jars. 9er Tek jars do not soak up liquid like PF substrate does because that have no verm. The liquid inoculum runs all over the place, down the glass, percolating through rice grains like balls in a pichinko (spel?) machine.

And since I am rambling... Karna's Tek provides more nutrients for inoculum that is not quickly shot and stored. Pure sugars have no endurance. They will fire up a quick germination and "puff" of mycelial growth. They will stall with age...Giv'm the western show early. Draw & Shoot Buckeye

Shroom Glossary

(Message edited by admin on June 25, 2004)
Top of pageBottom of pageLink to this message

Admin (Admin)
Posted on Thursday, August 23, 2001 - 12:12 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

CYRUS BARNABY MYCELLIUM TEK


==================================================

This tek is so easy, and so effective, I thought I'd pass it along to you
first, since you seem somewhat of a rising star in this industry...
The CYRUS BARNABY STERILE MYCELIUM BROTH TEK is as follows:

Nail a hole in the lid of a one pint mason jar. Place a small amount [one-half teaspoon] of brown rice or other organically grown flour in the
jar. Fill with spring water until jar is filled to about where the threads
start near the top. Place the lid on top of the jar and use packing tape to
adhere it to the jar. Now, screw on the band-lid and sterilize at 15 p.s.i.
for forty minutes. Allow the jar to cool in the pressure cooker. Remove
from pressure cooker and tear off another piece of packing tape equal in
length to he one you used to seal the jar. Run one end of the tape up the
side of the jar and onto the band lid, but don't press the rest of its length
down. Leave the rest of the length of tape hanging there, waiting. Now,
using a clean and viable spore syringe, innoculte the sterile brown rice
broth by puncturing through the tape and injecting a few cc's of spore
solution. Withdraw the syringe and quickly seal the hole with the length of
tape you've prepared for this purpose. *Note* To this point you have just
completed what is known as the FOGGY MOUNTAIN FARM QUICK SEAL TEK, except for
the fact that you used brown rice broth instead of brown rice substrate to
fill the jars. Now to the good part. Within two to three weeks you should
see plenty of little clumps of mycelium and even some long, stringy hyphae
growing in the brown rice broth. Next, sterilize as many syringes as you
please and have them standing by. Vigorously shake the solution. This will
help in breaking up the mycelial clumps in the jar. With tape standing by,
plunge your first syringe through the tape seal and into the mycelial broth.
Draw up the syringe and fill it to the top. Because the clumps can sometimes
clog the needle, it may be necessary to frequently plunge it downward a bit
to clear out material clogging the needle. Sometimes, this blockage can
cause air to be drawn into the needle. No worry. Hold the entire syringe
apparatus firmly down into the solution and invert the entire setup, syringe,
jar, and all. Now, the air will rise to the top of the syringe, where it can
be plunged out into the jar. Now, flip the whole thing back over, and
continue this process until the syringe is filled. Now, get your next empty,
sterile syringe ready. In one swift motion, withdraw the full syringe and
instantly replace it with your waiting, empty syringe. Cap the full syringe
with a pre-prepped needle guard, and then return your attention to the jar,
where you will repeat the filling process, and so on, until the desired
number of sterile mycelial broth syringes are created. You can literally
create 40-60 syringes using just this jar, which was originally innoculated
with two measly cc's of spore solution. Use these liberally in innoculating
pint or quart jars, and shake them vigorously. In five to ten days,
depending on size of jar and attention to shaking, the jars will be fully
colonized, at which point they can be cased (preferred method), or fruited PF
or Hippie style. Well there it is....Oh, and one more thing. If you run out
of syringes, just tape off the hole as soon as you fill your last syringe,
and you can use the remaining broth to fill other syringes at a later time.
Good luck and happy farming.