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Mycotopia Web Archive Archive Casings. Several Casing teks Mycotopia Favorites Previous Next

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Topic Author Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Straw Tek Tips (btm of thread) - 1
Coco "Coir" Casings - 1
I'm so happy I had to show it!!AdNauseumImok Urok230 1 12-15-01  05:58 am
Worm Castings - 1

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greenthumb (Greenthumb)
Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 03:22 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My friend will doing some casing of his PF cakes and he couldn't decide what recipe to cook up. He is leaning towards Hongus style, but he hopes to get more feed-back from the casing veterans who post around here. He truly values all input.
AND AS ALWAYS----------THANKS
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oscill8 (Oscill8)
Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 04:38 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

hongus' casing instructions, with Coir instead of Verm. coir is very forgiving, no sterilization/pasteurization required, very airy, needs no buffering... etc. colonizes quickly (sometimes too quickly with aggressive strains like puerto ricans, but usually not a problem). it can dry out- but misting it will stave off the drying. coir's also cool since you can visibly see when its drying out; it begins to lighten and become more "orange" looking ... thats when to mist. theres really not a difference in "casing methods"- just the material you use for casing. (well, and the fact some use a bottom casing layer and some dont).

HQ crumbles her cakes in a ziploc (crumbling from outside in)- not with bare hands. just always done this and is neater.

gluck
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Marx2k (Marx2k)
Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 04:55 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My friend uses peat moss and worm poo in a 45%/45% mix. Then she adds vermeculite (very small amount, just to get rid of her bag of verm). Gypsum is added as well. A pinch or two. All this is mixed with water.. pasteurized.

When the myc pops up through that in a good amount, it is then covered in a 1/2" layer of coco fiber.

Thats all. And it works very well...
Yeah baby!
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Nuecrew (Nuecrew)
Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 05:16 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

What is "coir's"? And what is "coco fiber"? And where do you find this worm poo and coco fiber? Nice pic Markx!
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Marx2k (Marx2k)
Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 05:53 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

coir and coco fiber are one and the same. You can find worm poo at gardening centers, nurseries, etc.. Its some of the best fertilizer for plants you can find. CoCo FIber people can sometimes find at gardening centers, pet stores, hydroponic stores. My friend gets hers in a pet store.

Shroom Glossary
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Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer)
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 05:13 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hey Peoples :)

GOOD MORNING!!!!

* grin! *

Ok, I checked my buddies trays last night. The trays consist of, a 3/4 inch layer of verm, 1 full quart of birdseed per tray, and a half inch of 50/50 dung/verm on top.

He Put it together last weekend.

Here is the question.

Mycelia is overtaking the tops of the trays. There really is no repairing the top casing layer cause the rhizo growth is just hurtling across the tops
of the trays. The dung is being swallowed up BIG TIME. My buddy expects within a week, the entire tops of all his trays will have a huge white carpet of rhizo growth on top ( looks like quarter inch long fingers everywhere :) ) and then what?

Should they be ready to birth... Or pull the saran rather and inject some humidity into thier chamber
when the trays are fully covered?

Should my friend be patching the casing layer as the mycelia pops up and takes over? If so, should he use the 50/50 mix or just straight verm?

My buddy has never seen such explosive, aggresive growth, Crap seems to be quite the bomb when it comes to nutrition. Of course knew that already, but different to see it in practice..

Any tips on how to care for these babies from the point he is at would be so appreciated.

:)


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hippie3 (Hippie)
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 05:39 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

sounds like it's about time to initiate pinning.
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Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer)
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 05:50 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Really Hippy?

Shouldn't wait for the mycellia to overtake the entire tray?
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hippie3 (Hippie)
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 06:29 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

no, you don't want that.
since it takes some time for the mycellia to switch gears, it will still grow out a few days after initiating pinning conditions.
but it should not completely cover the tray,
that's overlay, and isn't good for casings,
as it stops water from penetrating.
start changing over when the trays' surfaces are about 20-30% colonized. really, you just want the valleys colonized, the low/thin spots where it grows thru 1st.
maybe patch the first couple spots it breaks thru,
but once it starts breaking thru all over,
it's time to initiate pinning conditions.
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Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer)
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 06:44 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks hippie :)

Tonight Will call my buddy, head over to his house and inititate some pinning!


You da man.
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Brettiejams (Brettiejams)
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 08:22 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

A good rule of thumb with casings is to initiate pinning too early rather than too late.

Like Hippie said, it takes the myc a while too "switch gears", to get into the fruiting mode. Even when you lower the temp, unless you cold shock it, I guess, it continues it's vegetative growth for a while.

If you get overlay your pin-set is gonna suck for sure.
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Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer)
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 09:26 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Awww Crap Brettie :(

I thought the overlay was a good thing.
The only casings i've played with are my buddys
straight verm flat casings... Grrrrr.....

And those turned out quite nicely, er, well most of them...
My friend thought maybe he was ready to move up
and was overjoyed with the growth, now *LOL * he can't wait to stop it!

What is your suggestion as to what to do now?

An overnight cold shock in the fridge?
Trays are currently in a chamber that is
warm and dark. Could have my buddy turn on the
air exchange system on a timer or 24/7 to cool it off,
ditto with the sonic humidifier... The chamber is fully
sealed, maybe a large bucket of ice in the bottom???

And at the same time, start giving the trays some decent light?
( * Rats * have tube lighting ready to string thru the chamber but been putting it off. Buddy thought he had another week or so before he needed to mess with the casings... :0( ) Guess tonight lighting gets installed * sigh *...

Lame lame lame, I know, But this is muh buddies first time with colonized seed, as well as his first attempt at a dung casing. He never expected the myc to take over the tray...

Please throw me any suggestions that come to mind. I'm all ears.

:0(
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Dr. Cubesis III (Newbieshroomer)
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 09:44 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)


:)


"By Brettiejams (Brettiejams) on Saturday, October 06, 2001 - 12:01 am: Edit
I would recomend 75 degress to fruit.... 86 degrees to incubate, but have had many successes with temps that fluctuate wildly in the summer months.

From like close to 90 in my closet during the day to prolly the low 60's at night.

So long as you lower the co2 levely sufficiently and introduce the proper light to initiate the pinning cycle, it seems fruiting will still occour.

A dunk in the fridge to give a cold shock will surely be benefical in the cases where you feel the fruiting temps might be a bit high from time to time(regularly reach an excess of 75 degrees). "

:)
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Brettiejams (Brettiejams)
Posted on Saturday, January 05, 2002 - 02:58 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I always worked with a 50/50 verm, peat casing... but with dung, since the mucelium will really like to colonize it, the timing of pin initiation is pretty important for a good pinset.

You kinda of get a feel for each casing material, I think, but essentially, you water up the substrate through a damp casing layer for the first few days until you see the myc start to poke through. You can cover up these first couple of spots if you like, and keep the casing layer nice and moist.

Once you see that you are gonna have about half of the casing layer colonized soon, initiate pinning.

I stop watering after that, aside from the small amount of overspray they get when I mist the sides of the terrarium... If you did everything right... the substrate should now be fully hydrated for that first flush.