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H2O2 - 1
More Gloveboxes - 1

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Lichen (Lichen)
Posted on Friday, November 23, 2001 - 09:53 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Well, it's a very small one. The can of lysol barely fits upright, but the gloves restrict movement anyway, so you can only reach to the back. It's big enough to fit all kinds of stuff in there; syringes, a couple jars, alcohol, etc etc. It works, and costs around $10 to make it

glovebox

The principle behind the Oven as a Flowhood is that after you've heated up the oven (nothing can survive a hot oven) there are no microbes of any kind in there; you can open the door, and the rising heat keeps any airborne contaminants from entering in the normal airflow. If you do your work right in the oven, it's almost guaranteed clean.

You might consider making a small glovebox.
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onediadem (Onediadem)
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 09:40 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hi there, I was just wondering how you attached your gloves to the box? I made a setup exactly the same but hotglued the daylights out of where the gloves met the box. I also hotglued a filter over a hole I cut to let air exchange. Just curious,
The crazy lady in the woods,
live long and prosper,
pam,pj
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An guy (Boomer)
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 10:02 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

An idea I had.

Ain't built it yet, still learning the depth of the cuts, built some rejects, but:

you know how those plywood frames for waterbeds work? sliced partway down and the pieces go into each other at right angles? And come apart easy as moo pie and lay flat?

Ok, so make a box out of four pieces cut like this, the front one with a large enough door cut in it for getting shit in and out, and your arms. It has a piece of viscuene taped to it that has numerous slits cut up it like a cooler door.

On the back or one or both of the side pieces, a number of holes drilled.
The outside of this is a plenum, with a small OEM-type fan attached at the neck.

Coming up to the fan, a dryer hose, stuffed with polyfil.

A few syringes filled with h202, giving the hose injections of several drops here and there, so the peroxide drips into the poly.

sterilized, collapsible, storable positive pressure box.

Whaddya think?

oh yeah, just put some 1 or 2 mil viscuene over the top, save for re-use or get all gussied up, go to town, and get some more.

i'm gonna try it anyways. I have some fans from another deal I can use. still working out some design...
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Nan (Nanook)
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 10:24 am:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I wouldn't use H2O2, it won't be effective.
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Lichen (Lichen)
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 04:50 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Pam, my sweetie came up with the idea for this. I took some stiff wire (a couple welding rods, actually) and formed two hoops big enough to get my hand through comfortably, and rolled the sleeves of the gloves onto them. This gave me a nice solution to the problem of how to attatch the gloves to the box. At first, I tried to stretch the gloves and attatch them to the plastic little by little, but the glue isn't strong enough to hold the tautness of the rubber of the gloves. The 'hoops' turned out to be a stroke of genius. So then I just took the hotglue gun and put a fat bead around the hole, threaded the glove through careful not to smear the hotglue, and pressed the hoop into the glue. Is that a visual explanation? Then I was able to make a bead all around the 'hoops' and so it has a good positive seal.
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hippie3 (Hippie)
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 05:18 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i just took a couple plastic drink cups, the 'big gulp' kind, then cut out the bottoms, then inserted them into holes cut in the rubbermaid's side. then i was able to glue the gloves onto the 'cuff' made by the cup.
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An guy (Boomer)
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 07:41 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

>>I wouldn't use H2O2, it won't be effective.
posted by Nan

can you enlarge on that?

The idea is that yes, the peroxide will kill some of the stuff, but more, it acts as a trap- you have a length of polyfil, some minimum length, couple feet, I don't know, and it's gonna trap everything like a hepa, and the peroxide just helps that along, while at the same time not promoting infection in the polyfil in between times.

guy could take it out of the hose and douse with something I suppose, let it dry and then stick it back in the hose the night before use, and then let the box warm up before sterilizing the inside, let all the accumulants blow out...

But like I said in another post, a place I used to work at was world class in their specialty of sterilization, and for working areas they used covering, iso, and or peroxide, so I'm not understanding why you say it won't work?
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Nan (Nanook)
Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2001 - 08:09 pm:Edit Post Quote Text Delete Post Print Post Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Peroxide soaked filters will do nothing more than create a soggy mess and it has the ability to backfire.

First off, wet filter media (like polyfil or other fiber or paper filter cartridge) does not pass air nearly as readily as dry filter media.

The other thing is that peroxide is a mild disinfectant. It does not do much against live mold, many bacteria, and yeasts.

Don't wet your filters down with Peroxide. If you wet your filters down with something Lysol or alcohol... Remember the fire hazard and check your fans to ensure the motors are sealed and/or non-sparking.