Post Number: 8755
|Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 01:37 pm:||
Posted by: Millet Nov 16 02, 02:25 AM GMT
Superspawning is a term used to describe the spawning of a small to moderate amount of substrate with colonized grain spawn, then using the colonized substrate as spawn for straw. In general, the easiest substrate to use is worm castings, but manure may be used as well.
This technique differs in many ways from grain-to-grain spawn generation. Firstly, mycelium that has been grown castings, then spawned to a bulk sub is more mature, robust if you will. If transfered when the spawn is ready, rather than waiting til its convenient, the mycelium will continue to grow at its maximum (as good as you can provide anyway) rate, thereby eliminating mycelial lag, and promoting 'mycelial momentum'. In a nutshell, superspawned mycelium is superior to colonized grain.
This may also be attributed to the fact that the mycelium had been able to develop a broader range of digestive enzymes before going to the final bulk sub. IMO this is key to getting the fastest spawn run in your final substrate. After all, with pasteurized straw weve got a little window there, and we want to take full advantage of it.
Ratios of superspawn use differ from cultivator to cultivator. I think a good rule of thumb is 3 qts of colonized grain to 7 lb castings for initial superspawn generation. After this is colonized is a 12 x 18 x 6" rubbermaid, the colonized superspawn can innoc up to 4 minibales of straw, although 2 1/2 is a more comfortable measure, and will result is a slightly faster spawn run.
What I like to do is pasteurize my straw, dump it into the fruiting tub, then use a butter knife to divide my superspawn into three equal parts in the container it colonized in. The tub is inverted, and 2/3 of the spawn is allowed to fall into the tub on top of the straw. It is crumbled with clean hands then mixed with the straw. The straw is firmly packed. The last 1/3 is then crumbled over the top of the packed substrate. The purpose of this is to colonize the top as quickly as possible, thereby sealing the substrate off from potential contams with vigorous mycelium.
Casing is done when the top is solid white, 4:1 peat to calcium carbonate, respectively. 2" of casing layer isnt too much, just be sure it is loose, and didnt get packed down at application.
Mist lightly once daily, fan twice a day for 2 minutes per session, stand back and watch the mushrooms grow.
Posted by: AMD Nov 16 02, 02:49 AM GMT
You guys will do well to listen to this guy. Hes is one of the best around.
Posted by: DirtyWOP Nov 16 02, 11:05 AM GMT
I love good info
there are sparks flying all thru my head now....
Posted by: Nan Nov 16 02, 11:19 AM GMT
Thumbs up Millet
Good to see you aboard
I have had good luck grinding worm castings with PF cakes to generate spawn. It skips the precolonization step for me: Straw Tek Tips
I have yet to spawn straw with whole grain. But I wonder if grinding grain and castings... I may give a try some day.
Hope to see you around Millet, thanks for coming by
Posted by: Millet Nov 16 02, 03:37 PM GMT
Thanks glad to be here. I like the looks of this place, there seems to be alot of good information being exchanged, and a constant stream of new and relavent threads.
Amd thanks for the complement, I think your a hell of a grower yourself, aint everyday a fella gets a black morel pin invitro.....
Posted by: DirtyWOP Nov 17 02, 05:14 PM GMT
" I think your a hell of a grower yourself, aint everyday a fella gets a black morel pin invitro..... "
awsome....never heard of anyone culturing morels
anyway man....I don't know a whole lot about worm castings.
How does it break up? I would imagine that using colonized manure as superspawn wouldn't go too well......and thats as far as my experience goes, so how do castings differ? Do the colonized castings crumble nicely?
ya know....grain makes good spawn because it breaks up, spreads out to innoculate from every tiny kernel. But colonized dung or straw doesn't seem like it would make good spawn.....you would have to rip it apart.....it's more squishy than crumbly
enlighten me brother
Posted by: AMD Nov 17 02, 06:47 PM GMT
Colonized castings will break up easily. They have a consistency of potting soil. Spawning straw with them as millet suggested will give you some kick ass yeilds. You can case as suggested or let them fruit without a casing layer.
Posted by: killdannow Nov 18 02, 12:10 AM GMT
do you have to adjust the moisture of the worm castings or do you use out of the bag? Ive used worm castings before, w/o letting them colonize. I baked them for 2 hrs at 350 like in nans straw tek tips.
Posted by: AMD Nov 18 02, 12:23 AM GMT
The way I always did it was to SLOWLY add water a little at a time until a handful gives just a drop or 2 when you squeeze it hard, then microwave for 10 minutes.
It's better to be a little too dry than too wet. Wet castings contaminate easily.
Posted by: Bob Roberts Nov 18 02, 12:34 PM GMT
The superspawning is incredible. I have done something very similar in the past after having all kinds of problems with trich on the straw and first time, bang! Heed Millets advice to all those who haven't tried it. He knows his castings.
I also hear he grows pretty good basil in his spare time.
Posted by: Millet Nov 18 02, 03:35 PM GMT
AMD is right about moisture consistency, and adding water. Most times ive done a batch it takes 10-15 minutes of adding very little water, and mixing alot. Also ive upped my microwave time to 20 minutes, same as casing mix, and have seen no increase in contamination due to sterilization of the castings.
Ive just innoced a tub of straw with crumbled colonized mycobags, and saw similiar results in relation to colonization time and and the visual appearance of the mycelium. Just cased it yesterday, well see soon......
How do I post pics?
Posted by: ShroomVator Nov 18 02, 04:04 PM GMT
Just type what you want, then click "Browse" below the typing window and the emoticons (Post Icons); this allows you to find an image and include it in your post. Then, it will upload when you "Add Reply"
Posted by: Millet Nov 18 02, 07:25 PM GMT
Heres a nearly colonized tub of castings.
Posted by: Millet Nov 18 02, 07:26 PM GMT
Posted by: killdannow Nov 20 02, 09:37 PM GMT
how much are you guys sterilizing at a time in the microwave?
Posted by: ShroomZilla Nov 21 02, 01:57 AM GMT
That was such simple awesome tek!
My friend is just now colonizing his
first spawn bag run, 60 cc's a bag...
A few of Rye, A few of whole grain brown
rice with some verm mixed in.
Innoculated Hot from a liquid culture of shroom pieces
in a karo jar ( My blender has dissapeared! )
we are talking the same amount into 6 big bags,
as would prolly fill 60 pints if not more...
Been waiting a long time for this!
So excited! Thanks for the tek though.
I'd rather get my tek here than off the street
Posted by: T Razza Nov 22 02, 07:35 PM GMT
You should really listen to MM, he's a living cultivator's bible.
Would home grown compost be about the same as worm casting in terms of ratio of inorganic to organic matter? Have you ever used phase I and phase II compost (horse manure: straw) before?
I'm glad to see you posting again...
Posted by: Fuz Nov 25 02, 12:22 AM GMT
How bout spawning the substate(castings) in a bag instead of a tub?
then mix srtraw?
Posted by: Nanook Nov 25 02, 12:51 AM GMT
Sure why not.
Posted by: Fuz Dec 08 02, 07:06 PM GMT
spawning worm castings with seed,wait till top layer is completely
covered to mix with straw?
Posted by: Mycota Dec 08 02, 07:16 PM GMT
QUOTE (Fuz @ Dec 09 02, 12:06 AM GMT)
>>>hey guys, spawning worm castings with seed,wait till top layer is completely covered to mix with straw? <<<
I'm not sure exactly what you are up to?
But, it is best to add seed/grain spawn to any bulk substrate, all at once. The spawn should be 100% colonized & the bulk substrate should be pasturized.
There is wisdom in simplicity. The fewer steps taken, the less the odds are of introducing any contaminates.
Posted by: AMD Dec 08 02, 08:59 PM GMT
Yes you wait until the castings are completly covered.
I believe he is talking about Millets method. In this you let the castings completely colonize and then mix with straw. The theory behind this is that straw contams easily. If you mix in a large amount of colonized castings it will colonize quickly giving contams less of a chance to take hold than if you had just spawned with a couple of quarts of grain.
The method in short is.
Colonized grain is spawned to a large amount of castings.
When they are fully colonized they are spawned to a lager amount of straw. It helps to keep back about 1/4 of the castings until everything is mixed and leveled then the reserved castings are used to cover the mixture as a further guard against contamination.
This mixture is allowed to colonize and fruit. It may also be cased if you wish.
Great yields are the rule with this method and it is basically all I ever used once I got into bulk cultivation.
Posted by: HapplyDeranged Dec 08 02, 09:19 PM GMT
sounds like a winner
Posted by: Fuz Dec 08 02, 11:07 PM GMT
Sorry I was to vague,
AMD u got it, that was just what I needed
THANX to mycota too
Posted by: AMD Dec 10 02, 12:49 AM GMT
Good luck. Hope you have a use for a lot of the fungi. Castings and straw won't let you down.
(Message edited by admin on December 06, 2003)
Jesse James (Spacecowboy)
Post Number: 437
|Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 05:31 pm:||
I have been reading up on a technique called super spawning, it uses colonized grains spawned to straight worm castings. I did not know, but the mycellium thrives in castings! The ratio stated was three quart jars of spawn to seven pounds of worm castings.
Mix the shaken, colonized grain evenly with the worm castings. When the worm casting tray is fully colonized, divide the tray into thirds with a knife.....Take your rubbermaid fruiting chamber and fill the bottom with pasteurized, chopped wheat straw. Next, take your colonized casting tray and dump 2/3 of it onto the straw. Mix it up real good with clean hands. Pack it down, and then dump the remaining 1/3 of the castings on top. Spread out the last 1/3 castings evenly over the top. This upper layer of spawn will allow the mycellium to seal off the top of the substrate and protect it from contams. Once the straw/castings/grain spawn is fully colonized, you can add a casing layer as you normally would.
The middle step (superspawning) using castings, is supposed to keep mycellial growth at its maximum, and increases the amount of spawn you have for your final substrate.
my friend who is doing this (cultivating) has alot of shit (literally) but not me but he does what I want him to do because I now have the knowledge to get him results !! Anyway , I will tell him to try this but in a smaller capacity because he is limited on space and only has one huge growing chamber and a 40 qt cooler incubator (finally got it to 84 degrees from 80 with some custom tuning of the fish tank heater !!)
Check out what he has going on now. He just pasteurized 1/4 pillow case of composted manure/worm castings/straw and then , in the same water pasteurized some wheat straw seperate and is going to basically try what Astro recommended. The strain is Hawaiian and it is colonized in 2 , 1 lb bags of corn from www.mycobag.com (yeah , not much to work with but he lost like 7 half pint jars due to them being too dry to colonize) Luckily , two of them colonized so he did a g2g using those 2 half pints and crumbled them into the 2 , 1 lb corn and 1 , 1lb bag of rye (which is just now colonizing) Ok fungi , stop rambling !! Long storry short , he is going to make 5-6 small containers of spawn by doing a layer of spawn (corn) then a layer of wheat straw , then another layer of spawn and finally , the layer of composted dung/castings/straw which will be mixed with a good amount of verm/coir mix he sterilized. Sounds like alot of work but he wants to do smaller bulk sub containers so if 1-2 get contams , he still has a good chance at a large quantity. What do you guys think ? Should he mix any of this spawn or just do the layers ? Oh , also he has 6 half pints (brf) colonizing of
2 orissa india
2 creepers (these fucking jars were innoculated 5 days ago and are half colonized , it is INSANE)
He just makes half pint jars because he has no pc so he has to boil the verm/brf jars but his jars are colonizing at sick speeds ! Plus , the way his incubator is set up , six half pints fit PERFECT in this ,little basket that can be placed inside but at the top (kinda hangs there) and his casings and shit are under that basket. He has a sweet ass setup but VERY limited on space. These one's he is now making will be left out of the incubator thanks to advice from Astro that they may contam easier in the heat and the straw will colonize fast at room temp. Wish him luck ! He has a lot of supplies , limited space , and a ton of prints/syringes . I think he is going to try a jar or two of Florida Pan Cyans next along with some more cambo/orissa/lipa yai/creeper jars !! He got some prints of Mex, Haw , and GT but that will be his first time making syringes (so much work to do) Oh , and one more thing , his huge EQ spawn of brf to composted dung/verm is a few days from going to the fruiting chamber !! He also lost all but two jars of EZ so this better not get contamed (knock on wood!)
first off, get a box
bulk subs work great in boxes
line the box with a garbage bag, and then fill with bulk subs
when its colonizing and needs 100% darkness, just throw another garbage over top to keep light out and co2 and rh high
this way you can fruit in a huge box and when your done, just pull the bag up and throw it out
as for the layers, you can mix the spawn if you want, i just do layers because i'm lazy
the spawn will rip threw the first straw layer like no tomorrow and then work on the more dense manure layer
always put the manure layer ontop of the straw so that it covers it, and this will help the straw from becoming contaminated
(Message edited by admin on April 19, 2004)
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