Post Number: 37
|Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 02:34 am:||
Practical Advices for Sowing
Lophophora williamsii and Trichoceresu pachanoi
Fill a sterile dish (with a drain) with sterile, well moistened and unfertilised soil. The pure mineral soil witch absorbs moisture very quickly is especially suitable. Even if the seeds are very fine they will not be washed away. The mineral prevents the seeds from silting up and guarantees long lasting moisture reserves while well aired. The surface should be smoothed out with a litte board.
Press the seeds in gently with a smooth object. Then spray them over so that they merge well with the sowing soil.
If swollen seeds or shoots dry out they most certainly will die. However, you should also avoid giving them too much water because you risk that seeds are washed away or fungal diseases spread.
Cover the seedlings with a fleece in order to keep moisture and temperature in balance . Fleece is a fine synthetic fibre fabric ( pro-film) it’s water , air and light permeability will guarantee best sowing conditions . The light weight shade effect of 22 % is good for seedlings.
The germination temperature witch most of the cacti and other succulents like is about 18 to 28 degrees centigrade. The best sowing time is from March to August . During this time you can reach this ideal temperature even on a windowsill under cover without any problems .
The soil must be kept moist as long as a little plant body and the first fine spines develop. Later the surface many dry out a beat. For this you open the plastic cover a little, later more and more. During the first 3 to 6 months you should water or
spray over with equisetium extract (anti-fungal extract) in order to prevent fungal diseases. It’s also necessary to add a little
fertiliser in this time (formula 2: 6: 4 or 3: 2: 5 )
The fleece or plastic layer can be used without any problems from the beginning of sowing until the little plant body develops after 2 to 4 months. Now the young plants can stand some days of dryness and direct light very well.
This toughening up is very important for healthy development of succulent plants .
After a year or a half a year the seedlings must be transplanted. Taking root ( after repoting well) will be supported by spraying with a Valerian flower extract solution. Valerian supports the rooting as well as the flower induction. In order to stimulate flouring, spray several times from Autumn to Spring.
Pratical advice for Growing Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea )
Morning Glories will grow in regular soil, which is moist to on the dry side, in a sunny position. Those grown in the greenhouse need to be grown in large pots or tubs or in a prepared bed of soil filled with two parts loam, one part peat moss or leaf mold and one part well-decayed manure, with a liberal amount of sand.
They need a minimum winter temperature of 45 degrees. Train the shoots to wires or a trellis attached to the wall or roof of the greenhouse. If grown outside, plastic pea netting or chicken wire can be stapled or attached to any surface. In early spring, the soil is top dressed with rich compost and straggling shoots are cut off to prevent crowding.
From April to May, a lot of water should be given and occasional applications of dilute liquid fertilizer that is low in nitrogen. I use tomato fertiliser as this encourages blooms. During the winter, the soil is moistened only when dry. Wet conditions will cause rot, esp in the tuberous rooted species. Calystegia tolerate moisture and are best in coastal climates and put on quite a performance.
For the timid, grow calystegia in a pot on quite a performance. For the timid, grow calystegia in a pot on a crack free patio!
In the spring, morning glory seeds may be sown in pots of sandy soil or cuttings can be inserted in a propagating case; the shoots can be layering in the summer. Seeds may also be sown outside where they are to grow when the soil warms.
The morning glory seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 48 hours in tepid water. I find the best method is to let the seed germinate on damp newspaper. Use peat pots as morning glory hate being
transplanted. Another trick is to get the timing right.
Start germinating mid April or early May or you will end up with yellow sick vines.
I cannot stress the importance of this, as any light frost will cause serious set back, as will damp cool soil. In June & July they will romp away and often bloom until the first frost. So be patient!!
I have heard of many people spending lots of money on seed to lose and entire crop, you have been warned!!a crack free patio!
Pratical advice for Growing
Atropa belladonna L.;
Nightshade family (Solanaceae)
A perennial branching herb growing to 5 feet tall, with 8 inch long ovate leaves. The leaves in first-year plants are larger than those of older plants. The flowers are bell-shaped, blue-purple or dull red, followed by a shiny, black or purple 0.5 inch berry. Native of Europe and Asia.
Cultivation and Propagation:
Belladonna is hardy throughout the U.S., dying back in winter and rising from the root in spring. It prefers a well-drained, well-limed soil in full sun or part shade. The soil should be kept moist at all times. Plants exposed to too much sun will be stunted. In hot sunny areas it may be grown between rows of beans to shade it.
Belladonna is most frequently propagated by seed, sown in flats in early March. Because the seeds take 4-6 weeks to germinate, they should be started early. When the seedlings are an inch or so high they may be set out 18 inches apart. The seedlings should be well watered just after transplanting, and shaded for several days. First-year plants will grow only 1.5 feet high and will flower in September. At this time the leaves and tops may be collected, but the plants should not be entirely stripped. The plants should be thinned to 2.5 to 3 feet apart at the approach of winter, or overcrowding will occur the second year. In June of the second year the plants may be cut to 1 inch above the ground when they are in flower. In good years a second crop will be ready for harvesting in September. The roots may be harvested in the autumn of the fourth year, and new plants set in their places. Belladonna may also be propagated by cuttings of the green branch tips.
I have found that snails, aphids, and white flies are among this plant's worst enemies. Small children are much more susceptible to belladonna poisoning than adults, and should be kept away from it.
The parts harvested as described above should be dried quickly in the sun. Wilted or discolored leaves may be discarded, as they contain only small amounts of alkaloids.
( Unknown web RESOURCES)
"Be not afraid of growing slowly, be afraid only of standing still"
((DeLL TrOn)) (Nilla)
Post Number: 366
|Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 02:44 am:||
I believe all this info is already here.
Post Number: 9329
|Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 01:50 pm:||
not as far as i can tell, nilla.
at least, not word-for-word,
although we have similar.
thx anyway for going to the trouble,
Post Number: 38
|Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 07:04 pm:||
I' am sorry if my post was a trouble!
"Be not afraid of growing slowly, be afraid only of standing still"
Post Number: 9370
|Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 07:12 pm:||
you misunderstand if you're talking to me.
when i said thx anyway for going to the trouble
it means thx for taking the time and making the effort to share
Post Number: 372
|Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 10:47 pm:||
Im sorry,didnt mean to come off like that, i just read and it sound familiar.
Please dont take any offence.
Post Number: 324
|Posted on Wednesday, December 17, 2003 - 10:03 am:||
the part on peyote germination is a nice guide to follow for newbs. Good work.
Post Number: 9510
|Posted on Saturday, December 20, 2003 - 01:04 am:||