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#1271969 The Mycotopia Foundation - Declaration of Contribution

Posted by Zen_ on 29 April 2016 - 12:47 AM

Something we have been working on for some time is a way to properly articulate the commitment we have for all of you. As curators of one man's legacy we are bound to serve it to the best of our abilities, and to demonstrate through our actions the ways in which we care and show compassion for other human beings. 

 

We decided to set out on a journey into the deepest depths of history of our community, to writings and teachings of Hippie3 that pre-date Mycotopia, and to find a set of guiding principals that we collectively felt resonated with everything this place has stood for over the years. Our take on the Hippie3-isms that helped create and define what Mycotopia means.

 

Every staff member, new and old, has and must agree to this Declaration of Contribution. It's a simple matter of putting into the world what we want to get out of it. We are here to serve the community, to serve you, and to ensure the continuation of an idea to spread knowledge and peace to all.

 

We invite you to join us on this journey of discovery and pledge to do your best to move the community forward in a positive direction. To be contributors to our legacy. To promote knowledge and compassion to all.

 

Please feel free to comment and let us know what you think. Everything is fluid as we actively create our future.

 

~namaste

:meditate:

 

 

 

So how do we want the world to look?

 

Declaration of Contribution

I will make good things happen for other people

For those here now and those who come after us

 

I will be resourceful and responsible

 

 

Love People

I Will Contribute

Be a part of the solution. Do your work the way you wish everyone else would do their work for you.

 

I Will Be Kind

Have concern and respect for others. To be on the receiving end of kindness is refreshing.

 

I Will Be Patient

Give others the time you'd like to be given. 

 

I Will Be Honest

Have truthful conversations.

 

I Will Encourage People

Give confidence and support freely.

 

I Will Apologize & Forgive

Say you're sorry & accept I'm sorry.

 

I Will Thank People

Enjoy the work of others, show your gratitude.

 

 

Remember

Excuses Distract

Embrace your challenges. Instead of dwelling on the difficulties to accomplish something, give your energy and attention to what needs to be done. Stay with how you can ... rather than indulging in why you can't.

 

Drama Drains

Choose truth. Hold back on adding unnecessary emotion to a situation. Avoid exaggerating the positive or negative of anything or anyone. Be thoughtful, optimistic, and encouraging.

 

Complaints Bore

Create solutions. Shake off useless thoughts and statements of entitlement and resignation. Need to vent? Do it privately. Be results-focused. Inspire personal responsibility.

 

 

Demonstrate Leadership

I will care about the people I work with

I will involve them the way I'd like to be involved

I will treat them the way I'd like to be treated


  • Sidestreet, BuckarooBanzai, MycoDani and 57 others like this


#511952 show me some love

Posted by Hippie3 on 20 January 2009 - 01:37 PM

decided to display my rep rating for all to see,
it's pretty good now
but i cannot edit my own account
[zen did that so no hacker could steal my account here]
so i need y'all to bump my rep
if you want
so i won't get beat up too badly
by those who harbor ill will towards me.
http://mycotopia.net...on.php?p=647709
also posting positive user notes on my profile
would be greatly appreciated.
http://mycotopia.net...=newnote&u=4529
thx in advance to all who
show me some love.
:love:
  • dead_diver, eastwood, manjotar and 48 others like this


#1236795 Isolating/Testing/Storing Cultures

Posted by peacefrog on 29 July 2015 - 02:33 PM

I have searched this site to find a complete guide for isolating mycelium from multi-spore to pure culture, testing, and long term storage.  But I did not find anything that had all the info in 1 post. So I decided to put one together for anyone out there who may be interested in agar work and/or isolating and finding consistently good producing cultures.

 

Cloning is much faster, but I have decided to do isolating from spores instead.

 

This procedure does take some time, but if one is patient, it will be well worth the wait IMO. Also, one can isolate pretty much whatever characteristics coveted.  I personally like to isolate the fastest and most productive cultures. That’s the beauty of cloning and/or isolating, one can pick and choose what works best for them or what they like to grow. And the crap shoot of multi-spore growths are no more.

 

The type and strain I decided to work with is P. cubensis PES Hawaiian.

 

Agar streaked from a spore print and allowed to colonize: 

1. Multi-spore.jpg

 

Transferring:

I transfer 2-3 very small pieces from the best sectors I can locate into a fresh agar plate. I normally do this for 5-6 more additional plates giving me several different isolates producing many sectors to choose from (the more the better). For the purpose of this post, I decided to keep it simple and only do 2 plates.  One can transfer a single wedge as well, I just prefer to prepare lesser amounts of agar for the same results. Or if you like to use Petri’s, you can purchase the plates that have sections with built in barriers and do 3-4 per plate. I prefer to use 4 oz. jelly jars for all of my agar work. I also change agar recipes frequently. This helps the mycelium remain aggressive by not allowing it to get used to the same food source:

2. First transfer.JPG

 

Several pictures of the some transfers to show the different mycelial growth. Picking the mycelium that produces the best growth (in the case of P. cubensis, ropey is the best) over time you will be able to isolate the growth you are looking for. One plate became contaminated with Aspergillus on the corner, but had some promising growth. As you can see many of these plates are throwing off rhizo. growth, but are not uniformly rhizomorphic. Some still have linear or tomentose growth as well as the ropey type. If the plate is not uniform, you do not have a pure culture, and just because you isolate a pure culture with the best growth, you cannot be sure it will grow well until you test:  

4. First transfer grown(3).jpg 5. First transfer grown(4).JPG 6. First transfer grown(2).JPG 8. Second transfer grown(1).JPG 9. Second transfer grown(2).JPG 10. Second transfer grown(4).JPG 11. Second transfer grown(3).JPG IMG_0096.JPG IMG_0097.JPG 11. Second transfer grown(3).JPG 12. Third transfer 1.JPG 13. Third transfer 2.JPG 14. Third transfer 3.JPG 15. Third transfer 4.JPG 16. Fourth transfer 1.JPG 17. Fourth transfer 2.JPG 18. Fourth transfer 3.JPG 19. Fourth transfer 4.JPG

 

After several transfers, I now have 4 different pure cultures isolated exhibiting uniform growth and the rhizomorphic mycelium I was trying to isolate:

22. Fifth transer 3.JPG 23. Fifth transer 4.JPG

 

Now comes the fun part of testing each isolate, choosing which one or ones you would like to work with and grow indefinitely if preserved correctly. For this post, I have used rye grain to colonize and fruit in mini grows. I have chosen to fruit from grain because it’s faster than waiting for bulk to colonize. Although, using bulk to test does have its advantages and must be done for certain species that do not grow well on grain alone. One could also use cakes, but I prefer whole grain for cubes.  If using cakes you can make a slurry or LC to inoculate (you can also use this method for grain). If making an LC, it will take a little longer due to the fact that you have to wait for it to colonize and then test for cleanliness. But either way will get the job done. For the edible wood lovers I have isolated, I used the cake method with a slurry into saw dust based cakes for testing.

 

Alternatively, you could skip the mini grow and test each culture one at time using whatever style you prefer or if you have room, you can do all together in larger grows.  I prefer doing the mini grows as it does not take up much space and it gives plenty of opportunity for a side by side contrast/comparison without all the space required for larger grows.

 

I labeled each culture in the exact order of the above picture so I can keep detailed notes and compare which one/s are winners. As stated above, the more pure cultures you have to test, the better you will be:

30. Cultures.jpeg

 

I place 2 medium size wedges of agar from each culture in a pint jar of grain, shake and allow to colonize, labeling each and taking good notes:

25. Grain 1.JPG

 

Rhizomorphic growth from one of the agar wedges:

27. Grain growth.JPG

 

After all are colonized I break up and pour into a small container, case with 50/50+ pasteurized (sterilized casing will work as well)  at 160 degrees for 60-90 minutes at a depth of ½-1 inch, and cover with foil or something similar with a couple of small holes for general gas exchange and allow it to colonize. Again they are carefully labeled and I continue to make detailed notes of how fast and even the casing colonizes, pin sets, speed of maturity, size and shape of fruit, etc. Side note: I did not know before I read a recent post by MLBjammer that peat bogs are being depleted.  I think I will change my casing recipe after reading that post, but this is what I have always used and did not know about that fact when this was done

31. Tray of grain.JPG 32. Tray of grain cased.JPG 33. Cased grain covered.JPG 35. Colonized casing.JPG

 

Matured and ready for harvest in exact order of labeled cultures:

44. Harvest.JPG 45. Harvest.JPG 43. harvest.jpeg 46. Harvest.JPG

 

Conclusion:

Although all produced, culture 3 was the best and most prolific fruiting culture. It wasn’t as rhizomorphic as the other 3 and it was one of the slower one’s to mature, but it is the one I would pick as my culture of chose from this grow. This culture continued to produce well and gave me 4 flushes all together. The other cultures clearly reiterates the point that just because you have the perfect type of mycelial growth does not mean you will have a rock star culture. This is why methodically testing each isolated culture is paramount. If I had isolated 8-10 cultures, I may have had 1-2 more great or greater producers that were perhaps a little faster to mature. So as said before, the more cultures you have to test, the better chances you will have at getting a great producing culture/s.      

 

 

And now finally to store the culture long term, place a small piece into a slant, let it colonize and refrigerate:

29. Slant.jpeg

 

The slants can be stored this way for years. I prefer to take mine out every 1-2 years and re-grow and transfer into new slants for continual storage. It is a good idea to take fresh spore prints periodically as well, just in case anything goes wrong and you lose the culture/s. Using it to grow, you want to colonize at least one agar plate from the original isolated one for further growth and transfers, and ONLY transfer from the slant when needed. This will keep the cell divisions down and will insure you have the same healthy culture you isolated for many years to come. Think of it as your main backup and use the plate/s as a “master”. Continue to transfer and refrigerate from this “master” to new plates until it contaminates or senescence becomes an issue. Then you can use the slant (your main backup) with very few cell divisions to create a new master plate and start the whole procedure again.    

 

 

 

 

 


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#1303967 Catattack some Agar 3.0

Posted by CatsAndBats on 25 January 2017 - 12:28 PM

Greetings again fellow amateur mycologists, autodidactic researchers and citizen scientists! Welcome to my new and improved agar-agar thread!

 

When I started my last agar thread it was set up as a learn as I go type thread, posting questions, problems etc. It also served as a log of sorts for recipes and my progress. This new thread is intended to be more of an active resource page. I will continue to log and display my work, but now that I have a couple of years working with agar, I feel that I  (along with my fellow "agar heads") can offer guidance and encouragement. Basically I'm cleaning up my other thread and placing all of the resources from it here in order to be accessed quickly and easily.

 

I get a lot of questions regarding homemade agar recipes and what type of agar should be purchased. Any powdered agar-agar from an Asian market will work. The agar strips are entirely too much work and aren't worth it IMHO. The basic recipe that I use for all of my own recipes is as follows:

 

10-12g agar powder (I've been using 12g but "standard" is 10g)

10g nutrition

600ml h2o (there's wiggle room here too 500-700ml works as well, just adjust the agar content accordingly)

stain (optional)

additives/future food (optional)

I refer to mine as "catattives" which are a pinch of all future substrates plus eggshells, pulverized and at the most add up to 0.5g total.

 

 

Now the above recipe can be adapted for virtually any purpose. If one were to use potato flake and corn sugar as the nutrition, one would have PDA agar, which is potato dextrose agar and is pretty universal in it's employ. One may use any sugar or "ose" as the nutrition, ie dextrose (corn sugar), sucrose (table sugar), maltose (yeast sugars), etc.. One may also use brown rice flour, dung, ground insects, and or any combination one may think of. I am of the opinion that if one has no previous agar  making experience, that one should stick to a basic carbohydrate/sugar source for the nutrition. At the end of this post I linked @seeker2be's aloha medicinal scholarship agar recipe index, which has many useful recipes and I use for reference.

 

It should be noted that activated carbon may be added as well to aid in spore germination, especially if the spores are older or their viability is questionable.

 

Here is an example of how I prepare a yeast agar that mycelium love:

 

 
post-147940-0-15627000-1468725370.jpg
 
The above is all of my ingredients that I'm playing with this particular round.
 
Included are 12g 'telephone' brand agar, a 7g packet of yeast , black food coloring, h2o, ~5g of my 'catattives' (powdered: eggshells, coir, oats, cornmeal, dirt, tiny bit of charcoal dust for good measure). 
 
In that picture there's a quart jar that has the activated yeast, which I activated by following the temperature parameters on the packet, which were 110-130f,  I stirred/shook until it was thoroughly consuming the 1/4tsp sucrose (table sugar) that I fed it, also on the packet. My goal was to get the yeast to produce maltose, which I hope coupled with my catattives, will be a terrific medium for my next set of transfers.
 
So basically after I got the yeast all riled up, I added water and everything together and shook vigorously, I then warmed it thoroughly on the stove, stirring a lot. I find this step seems to disperse whatever I've added as nutrition, and gets the agar thickened up, which helps keep all of my powders suspended, making my dishes uniformly nutritious. All together it was 700ml on the dot.
 
post-147940-0-43487700-1468725377.jpg
 
Here's the jars:
 

post-147940-0-60604700-1468725389.jpg
 

 
Here's the food coloring, yes I bought it because it had a black cat, go ahead, judge me. lol 
 

post-147940-0-73424700-1468725382.jpg
 
 
 

 

 

I did clean up this example so that it's only "meat and potatoes". It is just that, an example, and like my sample recipe it can be adjusted to one's particular needs.

 

I will update this tonight (hopefully) starting from where I left off on the former thread.

 

 

I would be remiss if I didn't reference and acknowledge my mentors and their agar threads. 

 

Uncle Microbe:

 

https://mycotopia.ne...3598-agar-work/

 

https://mycotopia.ne...crobes-randoms/

 

Peacefrog:

 

https://mycotopia.ne...le-and-recipes/

 

https://mycotopia.ne...mple-agar-prep/

 

Seeker:

 

https://mycotopia.ne...-log/?p=1198427

 

My boy whitethumb:

 

https://mycotopia.ne...-semi-grow-log/

 

Invisibility:

 

https://mycotopia.ne...nd-grow-thread/

 

And last but certainly not least, our beloved founder may he rest in peace:

 

https://mycotopia.ne...rs-agar-method/


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#1274019 Mono-Tubbing with Pans (Grow Log)

Posted by peacefrog on 17 May 2016 - 07:57 PM

Introduction:
I decided to do and share the way I prefer to grow pans from my isolated culture of Pan cyans Hawaiian. I needed to revive my slant and capture a few fresh prints anyway. This culture has proven to be the best producer I have ever isolated to date. I have done a lot of work to procure this culture, so I intend to keep it as long as I possibly can. So I take this culture out every 8-12 months to transfer to a new plate, then back to a new slant to keep it fresh and alive. This particular culture is 5 years old and has been rejuvenated 7 times. It still grows and produces the exact same way it did 5 years ago when I isolated it.

Agar Work:
The refrigerated culture slant from which I transferred to a new agar plate:
1. Slant 2.JPG

The plate from which I transferred to a fresh slant and used to inoculate my grain master:
2. Pure culture.jpg

Grain:
Grain master 24 hours after inoculating with a single small agar wedge
3. Grain Master.JPG

Grain master fully colonized in 6 days:
4. Grain Master colonized.JPG

I use a trick here with dung lovers and it seems to work really well. I use approximately half the amount of grain per jar and added to that, I place an equal amount of field capacity manure. This allows me to use lesser amounts of grain and agar for my grain master. Also, the tiny pieces of manure become many inoculation points when transferred to G2G jars. This small amount in the jar is capable of inoculating 10 other same size jars (in my case I use pints, as my pressure cooker is small and will not hold quarts). But in this case, I only inoculated 6. You will be surprised and think you are only getting a tiny bit in each jar. But after the shake and recovery, you will see those many tiny pieces of manure have spread very well in the G2G jars and will give fast colonization speeds.

G2G jars at 2 days after inoculation and ready for a shake:
5. G2G 2 days.JPG

G2G jars 3 days later and are fully colonized and ready to spawn:
6. G2G jars done.jpg

Bulk Substrate Prep:
My favorite bulk recipe to date with pans is 3 ingredients: manure, vermiculite and gypsum. Although, I have been using coir to supplement my subs as well recently with great results, I thought I would go back to my staple recipe for this grow. Plain wheat straw or a combination of straw/manure works very well too. I just prefer to use manure because I can get all I want for free:

Field composted horse manure I get from a local horse farm:
7. Horse Manure.JPG

Broken up, all pieces of wood and rocks are discarded making a very fluffy manure based sub:
8. Fluffed up.JPG

Gypsum added (I usually just eyeball it but a good rule of thumb is 5-10 percent per volume of sub.):
9. Gypsum added.JPG

Vermiculite added (Once again eyeballed but anywhere from ¼-1 part):
10. Verm added.JPG

All ingredients mixed together thoroughly and ready for the addition of water:
11. complete.JPG

Field capacity and ready for pasteurization:
12. IMG_0674.JPG

Spawning, Colonizing And Consolidation of Bulk Substrate:
Layering spawn and sub (you can also just pour all in and mix with clean hands):
13. 1.JPG 13. 2.JPG 13. 3.JPG 13. 4.JPG 13. 5.JPG 13. 6.JPG 13. 7.JPG

Tub fully colonized and allowed to consolidate for 4 days:
14. Tub Colonized.JPG

Casing Prep And Colonization:
My casing recipe for this size mono is as follows:
2 cups of Peat Moss:
15. Peat-casing.JPG

2 cups of Vermiculite:
16. Vermiculite-casing.JPG

2 tablespoons of gypsum:
17. Gypsum-casing.JPG

2 teaspoons of hydrated lime dissolved in a little water (I use hydrated lime pellets):
18. Lime-casing.JPG

All mixed together and brought to field capacity:
19. Feild Capacity- casing.JPG

Pasteurized for 90 minutes, allowed to cool and applied very thinly (~¼ inch) to the consolidated sub and put straight into fruiting mode:
20. Casing.JPG

This 50/50+ recipe produces a casing material that is right at or near neutral on the pH scale. This a little more than what is needed for this size tub, but I like to have extra for patching due to possible uneven colonization and in between flushes. Pans are tenaciously attached to the casing layer, which can leave large holes when you pick them. So I like to patch after I harvest each flush, but that is optional.

Colonized casing:
21. casing.jpg

Notice that the casing layer is not overrun and has colonized well. This is where the consolidation of the fully colonized sub makes a big difference. IME with pans, when I would case right after full colonization, the casing would be overtaken in a matter of days with thick mycelium, and would subsequently give me poor flushes, mostly from the sides. I began to notice that the best fruiting happened on the sections of the casing that looked like the above picture. Consolidation for 3-6 days solved this issue completely and I always do it now with the same results. Other pan growers have had great results not utilizing this technique, but I would highly recommend it to anyone. After all, it does not hurt a thing to do it.

Pin Set:
22. Pinset 1.JPG 23. Pin set (4).JPG 24. Pin set (2).JPG

Conclusion:
Matured and ready for harvest:
25. flush.JPG 26. flush 2.jpg 27. flush 3.JPG

Harvest pic:
28. Harvsest 1st flush.JPG

All in all a pretty good haul for a mini mono of pans IMO. Happy growing to all!
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#1180201 Eatyu's Reference Guide

Posted by eatyualive on 09 August 2014 - 02:16 PM

Here is my reference guide. Enjoy!
 
Clean Work
 
Easy Shmuvbox Setup 123/
 
P2G(Pf jar to Grain Trainsfer)
 
Peek int My Shmuvbox
 
 
Cakes
 
Eatyualive's Flatcake Tek
 
Eatyualive's Lazy Mofo Bag Tek
 
 
Popcorn Grain
 
Popcorn
 
 
Wild Bird Seed Grain
 
Fooman's WBS Tek
 
Lazlo's Grain Tek

Steeping WBS
 
Antibacterial Grain Soak Experiment

Bulk Tub Teks

Easy Bulk Subs 123 (2014)

Eatyu's How To

Faht Does Bulk


Stealth Idea

Chamber of Shrooms

I was finding with the trials if you keep the box closed you need a more powerful fan hooked up inside the unit. hook up a small personal fan pointing at the edge of the steel storage shelf. the air exchange needed to be a little higher. you can also place the top polyfil holes loose in your tubs.

Substrates

Alternative Substrates

Strawnet Journal

Wheatgrass Info

Wheat Grass Substrate


Substrate Additives

Supercake Formula

Non Cased Substrates


Pasteurization

Easy Oven Pasteurization 123

How to Pasteurize 50lbs of Anything

Straw Pasteurization

Steam Pasteurization

Steam Tek

Field Capacity Steamer Pasteurization


Flush Maintenance

Flush Maintenance


Cloning

9er Tek Cloning

9er Tek Additions


Liquid Inoculation Spawn in Jars and Bulk Subs

Tv Casualty's Slurry In a Hurry Tek

Slurry Spawn in Bulk Subs
 
Slurry Syringe

Faht's Mycelia Syringe


Supercake Trials

Huge Shrooms

Tex Dub Tub Flush

5 Year old Tasmanian


Prints

30 Prints per Tub


Recipes

Eatyu's Shroom Jello

Eats Halloween Treats

Eats Shroom Tacos
 
Growrooms

Grow Rooms

 
 
Woodlovers and Exotics


https://mycotopia.ne...n-slurry-spawn/

https://mycotopia.ne...e-spawn-fruits/

https://mycotopia.ne...s-pan-cyan-tek/

https://mycotopia.ne...wood-lover-tek/

https://mycotopia.ne...-woodlovers-08/

https://mycotopia.ne...ocystidiata-09/

https://mycotopia.ne...odlover-08-too/

https://mycotopia.ne...odlover-08-too/

https://mycotopia.ne...ies-woodlovers/

https://mycotopia.ne...ndoor-fruiting/

https://mycotopia.ne...liquid-culture/


  • eastwood, Sidestreet, apokalypse and 23 others like this


#1253499 Myco Bag Step by Step (Substrate)

Posted by wharfrat on 10 December 2015 - 06:29 PM

Myco Bag Step by Step (Substrate)

A supplement to https://mycotopia.ne...t-a-4-part-tek/

 


Things you will need

Substrate

Myco Bags size 8x5x19" .5 – 5. Micron, will work best..

Tyvec mailing sleeves (optional but highly recommended)

Spawn

PC (for sterilizing, optional pasteurizing)

Impulse sealer (optional but highly recommended)

 

Substrate

Your favorite substrate

I will be using coir/coffee found here https://mycotopia.ne...t-a-4-part-tek/

 

I will be sterilizing this sub because of the coffee, if you plan on pasteurizing skip the PC steps and place you bags on a sheet pan in a pre-heated 160-170* oven for 3 hours, careful not to touch top or sides.

 

 

Getting started

Mix your substrate

 

gallery_146391_1506_71803.jpg

 

 

Evenly distribute the substrate between the bags, I will be using 4 bags for 2 gallons of sub

gallery_146391_1506_64909.jpg

 

gallery_146391_1506_111645.jpg

 

 

Fold the tops over, or squish down (do NOT roll them up) so when PC’n they don’t expand and possibly burst

gallery_146391_1506_92705.jpg

 

 

The best way I have found to PC the bags is to put each one in a Tyvek envelope/sleeve from the Post office. If unable to use Tyvek you will need to use a small towel or equivalent on the sides of the PC, so the plastic doesn’t touch the metal.  Then raise them off the bottom out of the water.

gallery_146391_1506_172984.jpg

 

gallery_146391_1506_56635.jpg

 

 

I am able to get 4 bags in my PC comfortably . PC @15 psi for 90 mins

gallery_146391_1506_28741.jpg

 

 

Once cooled, remove the tyvec sleeves and save for next time. Now is a time for cleanliness, I do this out in the open but try and be somewhat quick n careful. Get your spawn jars ready to break up and dump in the bags, I will be using 1 quart of spawn per bag, this will make the approximately 1:2 ratio. Open up a bag and dump the jar of spawn in and quickly close the bag.

gallery_146391_1506_172890.jpg

 

 

This is where I like to seal with an impulse sealer, or vacuum sealer without using vacuum. If sealer is unavailable you can use clips, or fold over several times and tape

gallery_146391_1506_3928.jpg

 

 

gallery_146391_1506_287159.jpg

 

 

Once sealed, use your hands to break up the spawn and mix well into substrate.

gallery_146391_1506_17548.jpg

 

gallery_146391_1506_207677.jpg

 

 

Set bags in a warm place, they will colonize within 7-10 normally, I will wait till I see pins in the bag, then I open the bag and set them in a DubTub FC. Some people like to grow invitro, in that case just let them grow till ready to harvest then open the bag.

gallery_146391_1506_145272.jpg

 

gallery_146391_1506_99335.jpg


  • whitethumb, Hash_Man, Ovoideocystidiata and 21 others like this


#1281212 CopyCatattack some cubensis bulk.

Posted by CatsAndBats on 11 July 2016 - 09:21 PM

Hello again fellow mycotopiates. 
 
The meaning behind this thread's title is twofold. Firstly it is an homage to the fantastic growers on this site, that have inspired me and that I oft emulate. I have culled, copied, and patterned my process from our amazing members, without whom, I'd still be trying to figure out how to birth a PF/BRF cake. Secondly, I will try to make it as clear and as easy as possible, so that any eager reader may follow (copy) the process and not be intimidated (being a copycat is encouraged). Paying it forward if you will, there is no groundbreaking information here, it's intended to be user-friendly for our newish members.
 
So let's begin!
 
 
 
Things that one will need to do this grow:
 
Spawn/inoculant or spores/spore syringe.
 
Quart jars and lids, I make my own lids out of pp5 plastic, but one may absolutely use the lids one has, as long as they have a gas exchange (GE) filter, and for those using a syringe, a SHIP.
 
A pressure cooker/autoclave.
 
A space for your 'clean work' i.e. SAB/GB, flow hood etc, which you should already be employing at this point, for transfers, inoculation, etc..
 
Grain, I use oats, but one could certainly use wild bird seed (WBS), or any grain that is traditionally used. If you use popcorn, you will have to give them a good rinse after hydration, which is unnecessary for oats or WBS.
 
A cooler for the steep.
 
Coir. I do not suggest using a substitute or replacing this part. Coir is purrfect for bulk for many reasons. It is extremely contaminate resistant, which makes it very user friendly. It is renewable, as opposed to peat (harvested from swamps) or vermiculite (which is mined). It also does not need a PH adjustment (like peat or grass clippings). One could use straw in lieu of coir, however straw is a different animal, and I suggest that for our purposes one only use it as an additive (optional) to give your sub a little extra air for the mycelium colony. 
 
Dirt or manure. There is some confusion among newer growers about bulk recipes. This particular process is primarily a 50:50 recipe. Half being the reservoir (coir) and half being a nutrition source (dirt). I'm here to tell you that virtually any quality dirt may be used. I use field collected composted horse manure, but I have used Black Kow right out of the bag, as well as organic topsoil. Don't over think it or try to reinvent the wheel. The goal is fluffy, hydrated, relatively nutritious material, that the mycelium can consume/colonize quickly with room to 'breathe'.
 
Calcium source. When following a steep tek (which we will), there is usually a handful of lime added (I use pickling lime, which is food grade), it's purpose is PH adjustment, which makes the sub more resistant to trichoderma contamination, but an oft overlooked benefit is the calcium boost. Oyster shells, egg shells, lime (calcium hydroxide) etc, will give the mycelium a calcium boost that they respond extremely well to in my experience.
 
Turkey tins for pasteurizing sub.
 
Sterlite bins. In this process, we'll be doing monotubs, therefore eliminating the need for a separate fruiting chamber. 
 
Trash bags (optional, used to discourage side pinning after consolidation)
 
 
 
The first step is grain hydration
 
I have done the boiling corn until it swells, I've done overnight soaks, and I've done no-prep. I've been successful with all of them to some degree, but steeping is NO guesswork. If you can make ramen noodles, you can use steep tek.
 
Take your preferred grain and measure roughly half of your desired end result of hydrated grain. For example, my PCs hold 7 quart jars. I prefer there to be plenty of room for a good shake, so if I were to do one run, I'd measure out ~4-5 quarts of oats. Any extra hydrated grain can be stored successfully in the freezer for later use, or better yet, just do more runs. The hydrated grains won't sprout for a couple of days.
 
Place the grain into a cooler, this is the stage that I add lime for the PH adjustment, a little dab will do, approx 1/4c but I usually just eyeball it. If you have ph strips, the desired ph is around 7 to 7.5. If you want, this is when to add eggshells, especially if you aren't doing the ph adjustment with lime. After that just boil enough h2o to completely cover the grains, and once added there is enough h2o to stir the grains easily.
 
20160622_125830.jpg
 
Cover with the cooler lid and wait 60min. Once 60min is up (one could let it go 90min, but I always error on the side of too dry in every stage of mushroom growing), drain using the cooler drain or use some sort of strainer. I save the drained liquid for other projects, but I digress. I use a rice strainer like this one pictured:
 
20160623_105158.jpg
 
Now comes the drying. The advantage of this rice strainer, is that I can shake/spin it and do the entire drying process in the strainer. The goal is just dry on the outside of the grain kernel. If you don't have a suitable strainer, just spread them out on a towel in the sun.
 
 
 
Time to sterilize and then inoculate:
 
Alright, put the grains in your quart jars and tighten. The gas exchange vents in your lids will keep the jars from exploding. I prefer to fill with an inch or two gap from the top, which allows me to shake with abandon.
 
20160623_105153.jpg
The vanilla is added to the oats to make it smell more like cookies than mushroom spawn when PC'd
 
Here's a closer look at 3 lids:
 
lids.jpg
 
The top lid was just purchased from a vendor, the next one is a homemade lid with a manufactured SHIP, and the last one is completely homemade, tyvek gas exchange and a clear silicone SHIP.
 
 
PC the jars for at least 90min, I have moved to a 2 hour PC time to insure sterility, but be mindful of not running your PC dry.
 
After the PC run, allow it to cool slowly as is, preferably overnight. Do not take the rocker off or any other 'cheat'. Patience is our most valuable intangible, if you don't have it, you will acquire it in this "hobby".
 
Inoculate your jars with your preferred method. If you have a spore syringe, saturate the SHIP with a non-flammable disinfectant and torch your needle and inject away! I do this open air, but if you're new, do it in your SAB/GB/flow hood. You can also follow those steps and do grain to grain, agar to grain, or if you are super special, a cloned sample acquired in a sterile/aseptic manner. Shake your jars at 30% colonization to expedite the colonization. Right before you spawn to bulk, give them a final shake to make sure that they do recover, this ensures that they are contaminant free.  
 
 
 
Let's go prep the bulk!
 
Let's get the math out of the way. The purrfect ratio of grain spawn to bulk substrate is 1:3 in my experience. Less than that (spawn) is going to lengthen the colonization time, and more than that will probably end up giving one too much excess moisture as the myc makes it's run.
 
So lets say that you have PC'd 7 quarts. If you do the math, you need 21 quarts of bulk substrate. Let's just call it 20. So 10 of coir and 10 of dirt/manure/compost. 
 
Here are two of the most common coir/s that I find at the hydro store:
 
20160623_082759.jpg
 
If you are pressed for time and have the money, do yourself a favor and get the bag, it's pretty much purrfectly hydrated already. If you have time and/or are low on funds, get the block form. If you don't have a hydro store, go to a petsmart and get the 3 brick eco-earth coir. It's cheap and the hydration ratio is roughly 3 quarts of h2o per brick (thanks @mlbjammer).
 
Now the main nutrition source. If you are blessed like me and have access to field collected horse dung, by all means use it. All one has to do is let it dry cracker dry and crumble. Field collected horse manure > than stall collected. The dung from a stall is covered in urine, which requires ph adjustment or at the least composting. 
 
I'm going to assume that not everyone has access to dung, so grab a bag of black kow/organic soil/dirt, which should be sifted to get rid of rocks or twigs, however I have skipped that step with no ill effects.
 
Now mix 10 quarts of both together thoroughly. Excuse my french but FUCK field capacity, it's too wet IMO. I hydrate bulk sub so that it  holds it's form when squeezed, with no dripping. The incredible hulk couldn't get one drop of water out of my sub. Like I said before, too dry > too wet in every stage of cubensis cultivation.
 
The goal is light and fluffy, if you get muddy, add more coir.
 
 
 
Pasteurization time!
 
A standard turkey tin will hold about 9 quarts of sub which is the amount one would use with 3 quarts of spawn. I am in the @tvcasualty camp of long slow and low on the pasteurization. I do mine on a grill that I can maintain 150-160f for as long as I want. The thought being that at 140f-170f, the thermophilic bacteria are active. The minimum pasteurization to kill off unwanted competitors is 2hrs at ~150f. Start the timer when the middle of your covered sub reaches 150f. 
 
If you want, put a large pan of water in with your tins to keep the air saturated, therefore avoiding moisture loss from your already purrfectly hydrated subs. ;) Just make sure to keep it filled  (This trick also helps if you are roasting meat, keeps it moist).
 
Personally I pasteurize at 150f for ~6-8hrs on the grill (you could do it in the oven or a homemade steam pasteurizer). Then I place the turkey tins in a cooler with towels and blankets surrounding it. The long slow cool off allows different thermophiles (active at different temps) to sex and multiply, in turn occupying more space on your sub.
 
 
Almost done kids!
 
Let's fill some monos. Get your  bins ready. I use the 27qt sterlites. If you want, drill three or four 1" holes right above where the sub levels out which is should be about 3" deep (the sub depth). Cover the holes with micropore tape, fill tightly with polyfill (loosen during fruiting), or easyfelt. I have also forgone the holes and just did a lid cracking for half the day and closed the other half with excellent results (@sgfchamber style) If you don't want side pinning, use a trash bag here (I don't usually). If you skip the bags, wipe out your bins with h2o2 or any other environmentally friendly disinfectant. Now  just mindfully mix 3qt jars of spawn with 9qts of your exquisitely prepared sub. I do it open air with disposable gloves. Just get all of your grains broken up and mixed real well.
 
The colonization run should take about 2 weeks, depending on how aggressive your strain is. Once it's 100% colonized, the sub should start to consolidate and shrink a little bit off of the sides of your bins.
 
Once you see little hyphal knots on the sub, place into fruiting,  just increase FAE to initiate pin formation. This happens at about 75% relative humidity. Fan 3x a day and/or do the cracked lid method, slightly cracked 12hrs, closed 12hrs. If you gave it GE holes make sure there is a fan in the room keeping the air circulating.  Ideally you want evaporation happening on the bulk surface. You know that this is happening as the moisture on the walls of the bin. When they dry, spray the walls.
 
Basically you want evaporation off of the sub surface, and wall surface. Spray the sides of the tub when they dry out.
 
Here's how they look when you are in fruiting:
 
BPK.jpg
 
Here's how they look right before harvest, sidepins and all:
 
IMG_20160625_184852.jpg
 
IMG_20160625_182830.jpg
 
*catEdit Both of those tubs were Ban Phang Ka, MS and took 5-7 weeks from "spore to spore". Both prepared with the above method.
 
Hope this helps you budding hobbyists. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have.
 
@microbe77, @mlbjammer, @wharfrat, @tvcasualty, @cue, @coorsmikey, @peacefrog, @hyph, @roscoe, @turkeyRanch, @seeker2be, @kcmoxtractor @myc, @happy, @agama, @psybearknot, @numeric,  @sgfchamber, @whitethumb, @zen, @gadgetguy @alder, @EntireMycotopiaCommunity (if I missed someone, I apologize, this was more tiring than I thought it'd be) are just some of the members who I copied, was mentored by, or encouraged by to arrive at this point.
 
And of course our beloved founder @hippie3. RIP

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#1250782 Pan Invitro Results and Procedure

Posted by peacefrog on 22 November 2015 - 10:34 AM

I was going to report my results on my first grow log thread, but I wanted all info to be together in a more concise format. I was also going to do more work with them using this style, but life sometimes gets in the way, and I will not have time for much growing in the near future. Plus, I believe I have done enough to prove that this is a viable means of growing pans. I am sure there is room for improvement here, but I will not have the opportunity for a while.

 

By only using BRF/manure cakes and cake style growing, one can successfully grow pans very easily with minimal effort. This can allow other grower’s not yet comfortable with grain spawn or bulk to grow some pans. One will not expect huge yields this way, verses standard procedures, but if you are looking for an easier way to grow them, this is for you.
The recipe used is pretty standard for dried ingredients for a BRF cake:                                                         

 

2 parts verm (Coir or a combination of both will work fine)

1/2  part manure (Black Kow composted manure brand from Lowes or Home Depot works great and is what I used here)

1/2 part BRF

 

The standard water amount would be 1 part H2O, however, I just do not trust recipes when looking for field capacity. I add water slowly until I feel field capacity with my hands. If you make it too wet, just add small amounts of verm or coir until you have it just right.

1. Verm base.JPG

 

Add the mixture to the jars and as normal, clean the top layer of the jar and cover with a dry layer of verm. Sterilize at 15 psi for 45 minutes and after cooled, inoculate with a spore syringe, LC or slurry, using standard cake procedures.

2. Jars ready.JPG

 

Allow them to colonize at room temperature until all jars are finished. The higher temperatures recommended are not necessary. I have grown pans from start to finish at 68-75 degrees for a few years now and have never had an issue with room temp. They will grow a little slower, but not that much. After colonized, allow them to consolidate for 3-5 days. Consolidating the cake is optional, but recommended.

3. Fully colonized.jpg

 

Now prepare a small plastic container by drilling several holes for some FAE. And take a zip-lock baggie and punch several holes in there as well.

4.Container.JPG 5. ziplock bag.JPG 6. Ziplock bag w holes.JPG

 

Bring some 50/50 coir/verm or 50/50 peat/verm to field capacity and sterilize at 15 psi for 45 minutes or pasteurize at 140-160 for 60-90 minutes and let it cool (I did not use plain verm but I am sure it would work too). If you would like to add some lime for pH, that would be better but not mandatory.

7. Casing.JPG

 

Now pour a thin layer into the bottom of the drilled container. This will act as a moisture reservoir/casing for your cakes.

8. res..JPG

 

There are 2 avenues you can take here:
1). Scrape off the dried verm layer, birth into the container and double end case.
2). Scrape off the dried verm layer, birth, dunk for 12-24 hours, then roll in field capacity coir/verm or peat/verm (or plain verm) and put into the container.

 

Then place the zip-lock baggies loosely over the top and set and forget. But of course, you want a good light source 12 on 12 off. An indirect fan blowing gently in the grow room will help a lot (thanks Jammer for the advice). However, I did not use one for this grow. So you do not need one, but it is highly recommended. Note: I did grow these cakes in a room with central heat and air conditioning, so I had some air flow. If you do not have central air, a fan would be paramount here. If by some chance they begin to dry, gently mist the cakes and containers as many times as it takes per day to keep the FAE to RH balanced (I doubt this will happen). But completely stop all misting upon pins forming. Pans do not like a lot of water on their fruit and will abort if too much H2O exists without proper FAE and evaporation. So it is better to be safe rather than sorry.

9. Invitro.jpg

 

These pics are an example of the double end cased cake:

10. IMG_0516.JPG 11. Pins forming.jpg 12. flush 1.JPG 13. Flush 4.JPG 14. Fruit 7.JPG 15. Fruit 8.JPG

 

These pics are an example of the dunked and rolled cake:

Rolled 4.JPG Rolled 5.JPG 16. Rolled (14).JPG 17. Rolled (13).JPG 18. Rolled (10).JPG 19. Rolled (15).JPG 20. Rolled (16).JPG

 

Using either method clearly works and proves that pans can be grown invitro style. It is a very easy and simple procedure to get some nice results. And since all 3 cakes I worked with fruited under these conditions, that is all the proof I need that this procedure is sound. Happy pan growing to all!

 

 

 


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#1265733 Where'd your profile name come from?

Posted by Alder Logs on 05 March 2016 - 12:21 PM

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#1243236 Coir Only Bulk Invitro Bag

Posted by MLBjammer on 19 September 2015 - 07:58 AM

I know that there's always been a lot of discussion in the OMC on the subject of whether or not coir is nutritious.  I contend that it is, after using it on and off, to grow Sandman-style invitro bags.

 

I also contend that the trick to using coir successfully as a primary substrate is to never leach it.  I sort of stumbled upon this observation myself after reading of growers being disappointed with coir's performance in bulk/rez-effect grows.  I always scratched my head, thinking, "Why would anyone be disappointed with coir?"  But then I realized that many folks were preparing coir by leaching it, as one would in preparing most dung.  Hell, if you read most of the coir prep teks online, most of them involve some sort of leaching in the tek.  

 

And I believe that the leaching process removes some of the nutritional value of coir.

 

Here are some pictures of a current coir-only bag of mine.  It's Redboy cubensis strain, grown with 3 quarts of oats spawned to 9 quarts of coir.   I expanded one brick of coir with about 3 quarts of water, which seems to come out about right moisture-wise every time. I sterilized the coir in quarts jars for 30 minutes at 15 PSI, colonized the bag on a shelf in my grow room, exposed to regular light cycles from day one.  Colonization took about two weeks, and the only air exchange was provided by fans in the room.

 

This flush amounted to 440 grams wet, which is 44 grams (roughly) dry.  I can normally harvest around a quarter pound dry from one of these bags, which isn't bad from a substance that supposedly contains no nutritional value.

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#1186701 Gratitude

Posted by TastyBeverage on 10 September 2014 - 08:27 AM

Life seems to be very doom and gloom right now for lots of folks. I know how it is when life keeps hitting you repeatedly in the face with a hammer, so lets try an exercise to be more positive. I've been seeing this meme all over the place lately, so lets try it here. Every day, think of 3 things that you are grateful for, and post them in this thread. Maybe you'll spend 5 minutes in the state of gratitude instead of despair. Maybe tomorrow it will be 6 minutes. And the day after that, 7.

 

C'mon, play along.

 

I'll go first. Today i am grateful for:

 

* The internet - bringing isolated crazy people together since 1994 (sometimes they move in together and get some emu)

* Meat - cause OMNOMNOMNOMNOM

* My BFF who always listens with an open, unjudging heart.

 

 

Your turn... GO


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#1231180 LSD and a Chinese Goose

Posted by TurkeyRanch on 13 June 2015 - 10:56 PM

This is half trip report and half farm story. I swear my life is so weird sometimes, I couldn't make this shit up if I tried. . . .

I had a truly weird experience the other night.

Bev and I decided it was time for a light recreational trip, and spent the day doing chores and getting things in place so we could have a stress free experience. With the farm, we have to manage our time fairly closely, or someone won't get fed, or a garden bed might wilt. Our plan was to come up as it got cool enough to enjoy being outside and look at our bird flock and chill, doing most of the heavy chores before we got high.

It worked out quite well, everything was taken care of by 5:30 pm, and we decided to dose at 6 pm, giving us about 4 hours before total dark to enjoy. We picked LSD as the vehicle for this trip, with an optional 140 mg MDMA supplement planned for an hour later if we wanted it. I went for 160 mics, she went for 110, we clinked glasses and drank down our water/L solution, and I went out to water a garden. She joined me shortly and we came up nicely. It was a nice standard trip, we looked at the birds, pet the emu, and enjoyed each others company, and the birds behaved suitably ridiculously to entertain. Neither of us was feeling like we needed to take the MDMA, so we saved it for another night.

After it got dark and the bugs came out , Bev went inside to watch a nature documentary, and I decided to listen to music and dance outside, always a wonderful idea for me when I am tripping. Was listening to an epic Scarlet/Fire and I was feeling particularly estatic, looking at the stars. My thoughts had turned to the birds that live with us and we care for, and I was dancing love for my bird friends, filling with happiness and complex thoughts about birds, and my relationship with them.

Just as the music was winding down, I heard a strange noise over the music in my earbuds.

**this is where it gets weird**

Taking my ear buds off, I listened. Soon I heard the noise again, it was a goose honking an alarm call. We don't have any geese, but a family of wild Cannada geese is nesting on the river near us, and they often chill in our lower field with their baby geese during the day so goose noise isn't too unusual here, but it was pretty late at night, and the call had a distict alarm note to it. I pulled out my very bright flashlight, and shined it down towards the river, and spotted a lone goose swimming in the river, looking lost. I tapped on the window and got my lady out there to see, and we went down to the lower field to take a closer look.

I immediately noticed that is certainly wasn't a Cannada goose, and it seemed to be tired of swimming against the current, it was alone, and wanted to get out of the river to rest. I felt amazing empathy for this lost bird, and sensed it needed my help. I shined my flashlight at a spot on the bank it could get up, and sat down. It kept circling into the bank, but couldn't decide if it should climb out near me. I closed my eyes and sent love and concern to the goose, and told the goose with LSD mind pictures that it could trust me, it could rest here for the night and I would protect it if it wanted.

It apparently got the message, because it climbed right up the bank to Bev and I, and plopped down on the rock right between us and honked. We looked at each other, we couldn't believe it! I reached out slowly and petted it, and it quickly settled down and closed it's eyes and enjoyed a neck rub. Our ducks and emu love neck rubs, (chickens not so much) and I guess geese do too.

After a while of petting the goose and admiring it's pretty feathers and awesome bill which was made even more impressive by the sparkling beauty of LSD, we stood up to move wondering if the goose would come with us. We moved uphill and the goose followed. Or more walked as close to us as it could, remaining inbetween us. We led it up to a pen where it could be alone away from the main flock, and had another petting session. I could see the absolute trust in it's eyes, and feel how grateful it was to be safe and off the river.

We gave it some fermented grain which it didn't eat, and after another half hour of goose love, we went inside. It honked a few times asking us to come back, then settled down.

The next morning it seemed perfectly at home. It made friends with the birds on the other side of the fence, and is happily munching grass and grain. We let it into a small pen with a few ducks and chickens, next to the emu pen so the whole flock can get used to it before we introduce her into the general population.

She is very friendly, and I named her Helper, after the robot from Venture Brothers.

***

I really think that the goose found us because I was putting out such a strong wave of love for the birds, and she could absolutely catch some of the messages I was sending to it. There isn't another house on the river for miles, and I have a feeling we are the only people for many more miles that would rescue a wayward goose at 11:45 at night. What are the odds? It knew this was a safe place for birds, because it really is.

We did some googling and determined that this was a domestic Chinese goose, so it's either a feral domestic, or it got swept downriver from another farm. We are going to ask around and see who keeps Chinese geese. We are certainly keeping her, but would like to fill in the blanks in her backstory for curiosity's sake.

At night, when we first found her:

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The next morning:

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#1153169 Some Invitro Falbino Cakes

Posted by MLBjammer on 05 March 2014 - 07:10 PM

Most of y'all remember my simplified version of the Chronic Tek. The Chronic Tek used quart size glass canning jars to fruit half-pint PF cakes, usually setting the jars on a grid to allow airflow through the four inoculation-sized holes, thus giving the cakes much more room to grow, allowing clean prints and producing fruits that look much more like terrarium-grown crops. The Chronic Tek is not what you want to use for large-scale production; it is for personal harvests and is stealthy and very low, low maintenance.

Well, I came up with the notion to make it even easier, so I use quart-size plastic storage containers (you can buy them at places like The Dollar Tree or find them in delis at grocery stores) for fruiting my PF cakes. You simply cut out four nail-sized holes in the lid of the container, place the cake on the lid, and cover both with the container. You now have a self-contained micro-climate, as the cake holds adequate moisture if dunked after birth and between flushes, produces enough humidity to maintain acceptable levels in such a vessel, and air is exchanged through the holes in the lid. You do not need a grid to ensure air exchange because the plastic jars are very light. So you can simply put them on a shelf and wait to harvest.

I have found that once in while you might have to wipe up a little moisture on the lids with a paper towel (pooling water invites competitors), and you can double end case if you so choose, but I would recommend taking the containers off and fanning them manually maybe once a day if you double-end case, as it can tend to get a little too wet inside, with the additional moisture and humidity from the casings. But the casings will help produce better flushes, so it is not a bad trade-off: a little more work for more shrooms.

I must note that my cakes are sterilized in a PC for 30 minutes at 15 PSI and colonized in traditional half-pint glass canning jars. The short, fat ones colonize faster and birth easier--if you can find them.

The pictures I have included are the Falbino strain, which has leucistic tendencies, meaning the pigmentation can be very light, and could produce an albino fruit every now and again. These cakes were inoculated from a multispore print that was at least 4 years old, so I was not sure if they would even germinate.

I have also noted that many of the pins begin with normal pigmentation and appear to bleach out as they mature. I had forgotten what strain I was growing and left these jars for a week in fruiting mode; when I looked in on them, I honestly thought the whole batch was horribly ruined by disease. Then I remembered that they were Falbinos. Sometimes I should really write things down, lol.

And the trip from these fruits is pretty strong as well, as I recall.

Thanks for taking a look, and just remember that you only need a small shelf space to pull off a rather nice harvest with this method.

Jammer

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#622472 Whatcha's Easy MHRB STB Extraction, Step by Step Pictorial

Posted by whatchamacallit on 05 September 2009 - 02:02 PM

This pictorial has been made by SWIM and given to me with permission to post it. It has step by step pics, with added details for each caption, that should make a simple to follow tutorial, with every day items anyone can purchase locally, with the exception of perhaps the bark and lye.

The utensils are everyday items, and makeshift tools from beverage containers mostly. This tek includes the polar wash and epsom salt dry in great detail, so people may get their DMT smooth smoking and free of any residual lye.

The recrystallization will be added to this thread as soon as time permits, so please enjoy, and take precautions to be safe when handling lye and solvents, such as protective glasses and solvent gloves.

So here goes!

140523d1252175134-whatchas-easy-mhrb-stb

First, 1 lb of lye is added slowly to each gallon jug, that has been filled about halfway with cold tap water. To do this safely, SWIM places the jugs into a bathtub or sink, and runs cold water to go about halfway up the jugs. He makes sure that the water outside doesn't exceed the height of the water inside the jugs, or they will float and won't sit right in the sink or tub.

He then takes a 2 liter bottle that has the bottom cut off, and is clean and dry and places it into the top of the gallon jug. He slowly pours the lye in, about 1/3 of the lb at a time, then gives them a vigorous shake. He releases the pressure as they heat rapidly, and recaps it, then places it into the cold bath.

He shakes it more, and it heats again. Each time the jug begins to get hot, he sets it back into the cold bath, to keep the jug from getting soft. When the jug no longer heats when shaken, he adds the next bit of lye, until all the lye has been added to the half gallon of water in the jug. Once it is all added, he again shakes the crap out of it. He continues shaking and setting into the cold bath, until when shaken the jug no longer heats.

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The jugs are removed from the cold bath. He takes his powdered MHRB as shown here and begins to weigh out 454 grams, or 1 lb of MHRB into a cup.

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The 2 liter funnel is placed into the jug, and the MHRB is poured into the funnel. To make it easier to get the MHRB powder into the jug, he takes a butter knife and agitates the bark in the 2 liter, poking it down into the hole, so the hole is not clogged.

140526d1252175134-whatchas-easy-mhrb-stb

This pic shows after 1 lb of bark has been added to each 1 gallon jug, that is half filled with lye water.

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Both jugs are shaken vigorously, as shown above.

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The jugs are then topped off with a little bit more hot tap water, but allowing enough room for 400 mls of VM&P Naphtha, and room to shake and easily pour. By adding a bit more water at this stage, it allows the MHRB/lye/water to be a little thinner and not too sludgy.

These jugs are then left to sit in the heat bath for at least one hour, to allow any DMT freebase to be loosened from the tiny bark particles. The jugs are shaken periodically during the hour or so, and set back in the heat bath. Once the hour has passed, it's on to the next step..

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Now, 400 mls of room temperature naphtha is measured using a quart jar, then funneled into each jug. The height of the naphtha in the jug is mentally noted, so one can easily tell when all the emulsions and bubbles have settled out of the shaken mixture.

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Both jugs are shaken vigorously (one may want to not shake em so hard, but with this tek, separation still occurs fairly quickly, even when one shakes the beejesus out of them). These jugs were shaken vigorously several times, and placed in a heat bath, which consists of tap water in the plugged sink, as hot as it will go, and as high up on the jugs as possible, without overflowing the sink.

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After about 20 minutes, one can see the layers slowly starting to separate. This is why the mental note is taken when waiting for separation, as the layers are easy to see, but the emulsion layer is harder to see through the opaque jugs. One needs to wait, and the heat bath helps, until the layers are totally separated, before trying to remove the naphtha layer, or they will not get it all out very easily..

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In this case, after about 45 minutes or so, one can see they have separated nicely, and both layers are easily seen.

SWIM now takes a gatorade bottle, with the twist close type nozzle, and cuts the very bottom off of it. The bottle is rinsed out and the jugs of naphtha are slowly poured into the bottle, making sure the nozzle is twisted closed. By pouring slowly, one can manage to get very little MHRB sludge/water into the makeshift funnel.

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Here one can see that a little bit of the MHRB/lye water solution has gotten into the funnel, along with the majority of the solvent. Leaving about an 1/8 inch or so of solvent isn't a big worry, because when doing 3-4 pulls, there will be very little DMT left in that tiny, thin layer.

The makeshift funnel is then held over the open jug, and the twist nozzle is opened slowly, to allow the majority of MHRB juice to drain back into the original jug. Sometimes the hole can clog a bit with bark particles, but the solvent can still be easily poured off the top of the flexible make shift funnel if this happens. The solvent is collected in a fresh jug for washing later.

If one pours the solvent off of the top of the makeshift funnel, slowly, they can watch the little bit of leftover MHRB juice go down the ridges of the makeshift funnel, and they can be sure not to get any of that into the solvent collecting jug.

It's better to just pour a fine layer of solvent back into the extraction jug, than to get the MHRB juice into the solvent collection jug, but if either happens, one will wash the solvent anyways, or will do more pulls on the extraction jug and can get the majority of solvent in the next pull.

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Here you see that both jugs have been separated and the solvent layer from each combined into the collection jug. As stated, one can notice a fine layer of naphtha still floating on the MHRB juice, but more naphtha will be added for the next pull.

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SWIM used fresh naphtha for his first pull, but for the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th pulls, he uses naphtha that he had left from his last extraction. The DMT had been freeze precipitated out, and the used solvent was saved for the next extraction.

Here one can see that SWIM has added 400 mls more of the used solvent to each jug for beginning the second pull.

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Both jugs again were shaken vigorously, then placed back into the heat bath, with fresh hot water added in the heat bath, and left for another 20 minutes or so to separate..

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After about 20-30 minutes, one can again see the separation occurring in the jugs. Again, SWIM separates the solvent, using the makeshift separatory funnel made from the gatorade bottle. The solvent is collected into the collection jug again.

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Here is the second pull separated and, once again, you will notice that there is still a small layer of naphtha floating on the MHRB juice. Again, not to worry, the 3rd and fourth pulls will be done, and on the 4th, extra care will be used to try and get the majority. However, an 1/8 inch of solvent, with very little DMT in it, is usually not worth the bother..

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Here you will see another 400 mls of naphtha (again recycled from the previous extraction) added to both jugs, which are again shaken and placed into a heat bath.

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Fresh water is again run to keep the heat bath hot, and to allow faster separation. This was the third pull, but separation took extra long in one of the jugs, and since it was getting late, he didn't wait for total separation, because he was in a hurry. However, one can add more lye if this happens, or they can just let it continue to sit in a heat bath until full separation occurs.

So, a fourth pull was added to the jug, after he got off the majority of solvent that he could from both jugs. He again shook them vigorously (which may have been the reason the one jug took so long to separate), then placed them in the heat bath and separated, as shown in the previous 3 pulls. SWIm will leave the fourth pull and separation out of the pictorial, since the photos above show the process easily. The next pic shows after all 4 pulls have been done and separated..

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This shows what the jugs looked like after 4 pulls were done, and the solvent collected into the single collection jug. Again, you'll notice the one jug still having a bit of extra solvent that hasn't totally separated, and why it was good to take a mental note. SWIM decided that he was tired, and set the solvent jug in a heat bath, so DMT would not begin to precipitate out, and he set the two jugs back in as well, and called it a night.

The rest of the solvent that was taking long to separate out of the difficult jug, had finally separated out by morning, and so he removed the majority of it and added it to the solvent jug. This solvent was now ready to be washed and dried, then freeze precipitated.

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Here you'll see, he has gathered his sodium carbonate (pH Plus) and his epsom salts, along with his jug of DMT filled solvent. He gets a jar for mixing the sodium carbonate and water, takes his makeshift sep funnel, his 2 liter funnel, and another gallon jug, and places them all into his work area.

One trick to the polar wash, is doing it all fairly quickly. By not allowing the water to sit in the solvent for long after it separates (which happens in seconds), it makes sure that DMT is not ionized and pulled back into the water. Sodium carbonate also raises the PH of the water to above 9, where the DMT also will not ionize quickly, if at all.

In a pinch, sodium bicarbonate could be used, but should also been done very quickly, so as not to lose yields, since it doesn't raise the pH as high as the carbonate does.

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Here SWIM pours a thin layer of sodium carbonate into the jar. He then runs hot tap water into the jar and looks at the bottom of the jar, sometimes giving it a good stir, to just dissolve all the sodium carbonate.

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The wash water will look cloudy after first being mixed, but if left to settle for a few minutes, it will get clearer, and one can try to add a bit more sodium carbonate, to make sure it is saturated. If one can test the pH, just be sure that the pH of the water is 9 or 10 at least.

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Here one can see that SWIM has poured a small amount of the sodium carbonate water into the sep funnel.

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The sodium carbonate water is then drained into the solvent jug and shaken vigorously. The separation occurs within seconds.

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When the separation occurs, one will see the dark orange water layer. This is your polar impurities that were left in your solvent. Looks pretty nasty, right? That's why we want to do this wash, to pull out some of that color, and any residual lye.

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The majority of the solvent is poured from one jug, into a new jug.

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When the majority is poured off, one can see the water layer getting close to the nozzle. This mixture is then poured into the makeshift gatorade sep funnel.

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Another photo to show the separation closer..

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Here you'll see the mix poured into the sep funnel, and the bottom wash water layer is drained out, and the remaining solvent added back to the jug.

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The second wash is performed in the same way. The sodium carbonate water is placed into the funnel again.

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Here you can see it again being drained into the solvent jug.

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The jug has been shaken vigorously again and has settled. It is hard to see the tiny water layer in this pic, especially with the opaque jug, but if you look closely, you may be able to see it..

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Again, the majority of solvent is poured off the top, back into the other jug.

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SWIM has stopped pouring when he sees the water layer getting close, then transfers the mix back into his sep funnel. You see that all the color has been removed, and the water is clear.

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Here you can see the separation clearer, and how the wash water is much cleaner than in the first wash.

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Now, SWIM takes a tiny bit of cold tap water (pictured here) to do one more final wash. This one is the one that should be done quickly, because the PH of the water has not been adjusted with anything. SWIM's tap water comes out to a pH of about 7.5-8, but if left to sit in the naphtha, could ionize DMT. This is why just a tiny amount is used for a large amount of solvent, and why it is done quickly. Also, if there had been any carbonate or lye left in the solvent, this plain water wash will collect that, raising the PH of the water, and lowering the PH of the solvent. This ensures there will be no residual lye or contaminants in the final DMT. One could test this final cold tap water wash before and after to see how much lye is removed..

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Here you see the cold tap water wash being drained into the solvent, for the final, plain, cold tap water wash.

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Again, this is shaken vigorously, and it separates within seconds, although one can barely see the water layer. The majority of solvent is again poured into the other jug, until a small amount of solvent and the water layer are left. This is again poured into the makeshift sep funnel, and separated as shown in each previous step.

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The water layer is discarded again, and the solvent returned to the solvent collection jug.

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Here you can see some everyday epsom salts, purchasable from any local grocery or drug store.

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A thin layer is poured onto a microwave safe plate.

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Here you can see it is spread thinly over the plate. This is placed into the microwave on 5-10 minute on high to cook all the moisture out of the espom salt.

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After cooking it, you can see it is very white and crispy, and is stuck to the plate. NOTICE the oven mitt, the plate will be extremely hot, so handle with care. The cooked epsom salts are chipped away from the plate with a butter knife, and care is used so one does not get burnt by the hot plate.

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Here you can see the epsom salt chipped away, and then SWIM uses his fist or something hard to grind the chunks to a bit more powdery, with some chunks, as well..

The powder and chunks are added to the jug. SWIM doesn't measure, but just adds a few pinchfuls to the solvent, then he shakes it vigorously, so all the moisture that was left in the jug is soaked up and so no water can be seen in the bottom of the jug. This is left to settle, which also happens within seconds..

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Here you can see the espom salts collected in the bottom of the jug and all the moisture has been soaked up.

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The 2 liter funnel is upturned into a fresh, dry, clean jug, and a coffee filter is placed inside, to catch any epsom salt that falls out when pouring it into the fresh clean jug..

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Here you can see the solvent has been poured through the filter slowly, and any epsom salt is caught in the coffee filter..

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Here is the jug, now washed and dried, in a fresh, dry, clean jug, which is now ready to be placed in the freezer for anywhere from 12-72 hours. By waiting longer, the DMT settles out much better, and does not float in the solvent. This helps when pouring the solvent off the crystals slowly, into another jug, to be saved for future extractions..

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Here one can see the DMT settling out of the solvent that has been in the freezer for about 18 hours or so..

http://mycotopia.net...ictorial-51.jpg


Here is a large photo taken after the majority of solvent is poured off into a jug for later use. The top is then cut off of the jug, to reveal the huge pile of slightly yellow DMT, with tiny bit of residual solvent.

http://mycotopia.net...ictorial-52.jpg

This is the DMT after the solvent has dried up and the DMT has been scraped out of the jug. This chunky DMT is now spread thinly onto a glass baking dish, and chopped up finely, then placed in front of a box fan to continue drying completely.

http://mycotopia.net...ictorial-53.jpg

Once the solvent smell is gone and the crystals are thoroughly dried, they were placed back on the scale to show the yield and results..


So there you have it folks, a complete step by step pictorial of a simple STB, plus polar wash, and epsom salt dry, that anyone should be able to complete easily. This is what SWIM did, precisely, and got 17.1 grams of slightly yellow DMT, that will be recrystallized in days to come.

He'll take pics of the recrystallization procedure as well, then add them to this thread when he gets around to it. Until then, you'll have to go by the text in other threads..

Hope this helps clear up any questions, and shows exactly how simple the extraction is. No need for any extensive chemistry knowledge, and everything is easily found in most any neighborhood.

Use it wisely, and stay safe people!! Don't forget to share your DMT experiences and revelations here at Mycotopia, the best forum on the internet!!

:thumbup:

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  • eastwood, eatyualive, Burger and 18 others like this


#1290156 Cyanescens

Posted by OysterFarmer on 05 October 2016 - 04:41 PM

Hope I'm posting in the correct place.  Still trying to figure out this forum.

 

Anyways I'll be posting in here about my Cyans grow.  This is the first season I've gotten any fruits of note.

 

A few things.  It can be a real pain in the ass to get started.  But once it is established you can't kill it.  I've heard a patch can remain for a person's lifetime.  So I've got that going for me.  I think part of the issue is its what I'd call a 'dirty' culture in that it doesn't like the clean growing environments of the lab.  It likes to be out there in the world picking up fungal and microbial friends to help it in its grow.

 

I have had two or maybe three different culture over the past several years.  Once you do finally get them off the grain and growing into some wood chips they are extremely hardy and fast consumers.  Making blocks almost as strong as plywood.  Next I'm going to try some grows in bins and once colonized take some dirty from the wild piles or peat moss as a casing and see if they will fruit out of a bin.

 

The patches I have coming up came from my trash pile basically where I toss failed grows.  I've got about six distinct patches coming up.  I'm really not sure if it came off some old blocks I threw out there or some grain that wasn't colonizing well.  But the patches are strong as hell now.  Can be hard to tear them out of their mycelial base.  You can literally here how hard the ground is underneath just by tapping it with a flicked finger.

 

The weirdest part is i noticed a lot of these patches are coming up where my dog liked to take her shits lol.  I have since blocked them off from her and she doesn't go there now.

 

Although they are difficult to start from spores I've found the boiled cardboard method is ideal for spawn.  Cut off the stem buts and roll them in the perforated part of the cardboard that comes off after you boil it.  Make little 'burritoes' and come spring plant those in wood chips and you are pretty much done.  Water periodically then rejoice when they come up in the fall.

 

For me I'm not picking the young ones anymore.  I let them grow to about hand sized.  Its already such an unbelievably strong psychedelic and I think the young ones are too strong anyways.  Plus letting them grow out dumps more spores and gives more weight to the finished product.

 

I'll be posting more photos and periodic updates.

 

Also if you are going to get into these PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE familiarize yourself with poisonous lookalikes.  Personally I don't think they look at all similar but I have taken people out on guided mushroom hunting trips and it can be super scary how irresponsible some people can be around mushrooms.  The 'look alikes' are deadly.  So you can't make mistakes.

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#1165563 The Perfect Wheat Berry

Posted by wharfrat on 18 May 2014 - 04:51 PM

Disclaimer: I do not claim this tek as mine. Parts or all this grain prep have been found on the internet. Although perfected by me through trial and error.

 

This is how I successfully prep my Red Wheat Berries.

 

Items needed

Wheat Berries

Quart jars (optional pints)

S.H.I.P Lids of your choice

Gypsum (optional)

Water (tap is fine)

Coarse or Med Vermiculite (optional)

Pressure Cooker

 

 

First thing I do is just give the grain a once over, make sure there is nothing else in it but wheat.

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Next, fill your jars with grain, a little less than halfway. 1 ½ cups.

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Here is where I use a teaspoon of Gypsum per quart. Some will say it is unnecessary, I feel it helps the grains from sticking together and adds nutrients that mycelium thrives on.

Fill Jar to the lower ring at the top with water. Put the lid on and give it a good shake.

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Now we let these sit at room temperature for 18-24 hours. This is what they look like after 18 hours. They will have swelled twice their size.

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Give them all a good shake and dump them and the water, into a large pot. Set on stove, on high till you get a good rolling boil. Turn heat down to simmer, slight boil. Set timer for 10 minutes.

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After 10 minutes, you will want to start checking the grain for doneness. Pull a few grains out and pinch them between your finger nails. There should no longer be any white in the grain, they should be nice n creamy, and translucent. In the picture below, the first 2 are not quite done. The last one is perfect. This batch took 15 minutes. (most times takes 15 mins)

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Now we want to get the grain cooled off as quickly as possible to stop the cooking. Put in a strainer, run under cold water. I will put a bowl under the strainer and have it fill up with the cold water.

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Now that it is cooled off, strain the water, give the strainer a good shake to get off the excess moisture.

It’s time to load it into jars. I put a small amount of vermiculite on the bottom of the jars to absorb any water that settles. Coarse or Med will work.

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Time to PC them. If you are using Tyvek as a filter lid, do not tighten the ring tight, the pressure build up can blow the Tyvek out of the ring. You can tighten them after u pull them out of the PC. Pressure cook 15psi for 90 mins.

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A perfectly prepped jar of Red Wheat Berries.

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Give the jar a tap on you palm to loosen up the grain before you noc them up. Don’t shake yet as you don’t want to disturb the verm. Once it has colonized 25% then shake it real good to distribute the wet verm into the grain.

 

Here is an MSS jar colonized in 21 days.

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I hope this helps some of you get your grain prep skills down.. This is a first in a series of teks i will be posting. Please feel free to comment and leave any suggestions or questions. All criticism is welcome.


  • the_chosen_one, MLBjammer, coorsmikey and 17 others like this


#1312022 Extremely potent cube trip.

Posted by SteampunkScientist on 19 March 2017 - 04:09 PM

Spent a whole day at a new park hiking about 20 miles. About 10 miles in I came to a beautiful lake and there I took about 2.5 - 3 grams of cubes grown on a teff flour cake which I mentioned in another thread.

Aside: this was an experiment using teff flour which is a highly potent food source which makes the mycelium grow so slowly that most of the cakes go bad before fruiting occurs.

However the potency is off the charts. This was more like a 5 or 6 gram dose experientially.

Here is what I managed to write in my notebook before I couldn't write anymore.

"I sit aside a small lake basin between several small peaks.

I watch the trees swaying in the breeze and I can see the smog of pollen being released.

The trees are swaying in the pure joy of their month long, yearly orgasm.

I see the ghosts of trees past swaying with them, ancient trees, singing.

They bid me to take of my shoes and stand barefoot in the lake, so their roots can touch mine, and I do.

'It's been so long since we have seen you!' I ask how long? With a smile, as I know years to us are but days to them.

I shout 'it's only been a few days!'

'Yes', they reply, but of your kind few ever visit us anymore. But you do, for you have always been one of us'"

So that is all I wrote, yet I spent three hours sitting and meditating by that lake in one of the strongest trips I have ever had.

That was yesterday and I'm still trying to process all this.
  • Sidestreet, coorsmikey, prof_it_e and 16 others like this


#1186903 Anyone want to adopt a hippie chick?

Posted by TastyBeverage on 11 September 2014 - 11:54 AM

This craigslist ad is hysterical!

 

Original ad found here: http://sfbay.craigsl...4659442619.html

 

 

HELP ME GET RID OF BURNINGMAN GIRL

Help ! She won't leave and can't accept that Burning Man is over !
Please take this girl off my hands. Her name is 'Leaf', seemed ok out there in the desert, and she helped us with our art vehicle, "The Giant Six Pack". She's on the couch, still sandy and stinky. She still has goggles on her head, which I'm pretty sure she never put over her eyes. I don't know what to do. She smoked all my weed. She has no I.D. , but is kind of cute. . . in a 'Burning Man' kind of way. BUT IT'S OVER, PLEASE HELP, IF YOU KNOW 'LEAF', EMAIL ME AND DRIVE HER TO PORTLAND OR ANYWHERE.

 


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#1186597 Psilocybe weraroa (Novae-zelandiae) indoor on shredded conifer bark

Posted by CaptainFuture on 09 September 2014 - 03:11 PM

Dear Ones,
finally something to show from le Captain.:)
 
I grew mycobags with many different woodlovers early this year, but after few months none of them fruited. So instead of just tossing them out, I put some of them in big flower pots (12ltr) with pure shredded conifer bark (called Rindenmulch in germany).
I layered the crumbled mycobags with the bark in the pots, one species per pot. One Bohemica, one Subaeroginascens, one Meravica, one Weraroa and a huge pot with two bags of Azurescens.
After 2 months all pots were colonized, so I added some more bark on top and left that again. 3 pots are fully colonized and one started fruiting 3 weeks ago (when we were just bag from asia :) in the cellar. (@ 12degr. celsius)
I guess its the Weraroa, but look for yourself...
Pix with cellular phone from today, 3 weeks since primordia showed up. (gee that thing is slow growing!)
 
2014.09.09 weraroa (5).jpg 2014.09.09 weraroa (1).jpg 2014.09.09 weraroa (2).jpg 2014.09.09 weraroa (3).jpg 2014.09.09 weraroa (4).jpg
 
 
The formula for the bags is rye grain spawn in beech woodchips with 20%straw and 10% wheat bran.
All species colonized a T3 Unicorn mycobag in 3 weeks.
 
I am sorry for the messy pic quality, I was to lazy to grab the big cam, but promise in a few days I'll take for the next series of pix.
 
All my Love,
cap

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