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When is bulk sub fully colonized? WIth Pics


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#1 Knucklebrucks

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Posted 03 August 2017 - 01:50 PM

So, I have gone from LC to WBS quarts, G2G to Coir/coffee bulk sub.

 

I have been following Wharfrats Coco Coir/Coffee tek for this last step and it is recommended 10 days minimum for incubation. I'm getting ants in the pants about waiting. It has been 6 days for this first tub, 2 days for the next and just mixed the third up today.

 

The sub that has been incubating for 6 days is super white on top and getting whispy and cloudy on top like it may want some air?  I cant see below cause of the garbage bags. Still smells fine and no indications of mold, just wondering if folks think I should wait a few more days before adding a casing layer. Is there any risk in that?

 

 

Second question. After adding a casing layer, would folks put back to incubate some, or direct to fruiting conditions?

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#2 ljacve55

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Posted 03 August 2017 - 02:03 PM

Back to fruiting till casing is at 20/30 %!
Im doing this way and its full proof


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#3 OGNate

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Posted 03 August 2017 - 10:28 PM

I've read that incubating after casing is a good way to go about it.  Can't see any way this could harm anything, just never personally done it.

 

What I do however is move it directly to fruiting conditions, I add a little coco coir to my casing and the myc likes to grow right through it and pin after about a week if you keep it hydrated properly.  By the time the first pins reach 2 inches tall the casing layer is about 50-60 percent colonized, so I've never seen a need to incubate prior.  

 

Another thing I've read is that you should patch the spots where the myc grows through initially and it's supposed to help increase yields.  In the forums they call it patching, I don't have links but it's easy to find the veterans of this site mentioning it.

 

On another note, you mentioned waiting longer than 6 days for consolidation.  With coco coir you shouldn't really have any issues as long as you didn't put excessive amounts of coffee in, it's pretty contamination resistant to begin with.  Another reason I say you shouldn't have issues is because I let my bins incubate for 10 days and I use manure in my mix along with coffee, which is supposed to be more contamination prone and I have yet to have a bin show mold when I peel that tin foil back!  

 

Good luck!


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#4 Knucklebrucks

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 08:52 AM

I've read that incubating after casing is a good way to go about it.  Can't see any way this could harm anything, just never personally done it.

 

What I do however is move it directly to fruiting conditions, I add a little coco coir to my casing and the myc likes to grow right through it and pin after about a week if you keep it hydrated properly.  By the time the first pins reach 2 inches tall the casing layer is about 50-60 percent colonized, so I've never seen a need to incubate prior.  

 

Another thing I've read is that you should patch the spots where the myc grows through initially and it's supposed to help increase yields.  In the forums they call it patching, I don't have links but it's easy to find the veterans of this site mentioning it.

 

On another note, you mentioned waiting longer than 6 days for consolidation.  With coco coir you shouldn't really have any issues as long as you didn't put excessive amounts of coffee in, it's pretty contamination resistant to begin with.  Another reason I say you shouldn't have issues is because I let my bins incubate for 10 days and I use manure in my mix along with coffee, which is supposed to be more contamination prone and I have yet to have a bin show mold when I peel that tin foil back!  

 

Good luck!

Thanks OG, Helpful Stuff. I am now thinking that the tub I posted pics of yesterday is a mold. Perhaps cobweb? See photos here. When put side by side you can notice the nice rizomes on the one but the other is super fluffy/cloudy. Not sure if I should just remove it or shoot with some hydrogen peroxide....Any suggestions?

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#5 OGNate

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Posted 04 August 2017 - 10:19 PM

 

I've read that incubating after casing is a good way to go about it.  Can't see any way this could harm anything, just never personally done it.

 

What I do however is move it directly to fruiting conditions, I add a little coco coir to my casing and the myc likes to grow right through it and pin after about a week if you keep it hydrated properly.  By the time the first pins reach 2 inches tall the casing layer is about 50-60 percent colonized, so I've never seen a need to incubate prior.  

 

Another thing I've read is that you should patch the spots where the myc grows through initially and it's supposed to help increase yields.  In the forums they call it patching, I don't have links but it's easy to find the veterans of this site mentioning it.

 

On another note, you mentioned waiting longer than 6 days for consolidation.  With coco coir you shouldn't really have any issues as long as you didn't put excessive amounts of coffee in, it's pretty contamination resistant to begin with.  Another reason I say you shouldn't have issues is because I let my bins incubate for 10 days and I use manure in my mix along with coffee, which is supposed to be more contamination prone and I have yet to have a bin show mold when I peel that tin foil back!  

 

Good luck!

Thanks OG, Helpful Stuff. I am now thinking that the tub I posted pics of yesterday is a mold. Perhaps cobweb? See photos here. When put side by side you can notice the nice rizomes on the one but the other is super fluffy/cloudy. Not sure if I should just remove it or shoot with some hydrogen peroxide....Any suggestions?

 

 

I'm not an expert but I don't think that's cobweb, the jars I got that in the mycellium was noticeably grayer than the mushie mycellium.  Mine usually end up looking like the bin on the left (in the picture showing both), just with pools of metabolites. I would isolate if you're worried, but other than that I'd case normally and just proceed with caution.  

 

Sometimes the tops of my WBS jars look like that, super airborne and fluffy, I read somewhere that the myc is desperate for oxygen so it does that?  Who knows, maybe someone more experienced can shed some light.



#6 Knucklebrucks

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 12:32 PM

Those are pretty much mushrooms cultures you have going. I would say they are cube . Many differing cubes have a different looking growth and is evidenced by fruiting two strains in the same container . Are they the same type ?

Same strain. After casing all of the tubs. the one with the unique growth encased the casing in 24 hours. Still not sure. I pulled it from the fuiting chamber to be safe and now is just outside.....The temps here make it possible to still fruit....we shall see.



#7 BetweenDimensionalPassings

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 02:22 PM

If it's all white, it's right; give it a smell test and determine from there. Never smell test if you see obvious molds and always check for mycellium piss which is a tall sign your mycellium is under-stress or is facing a danger-up ahead. 

Both tubs looked great, I do hope to hear back that they both fruited and well

 

 

*EDIT*

I saw nothing that would worry me at this point, but perhaps in a few days we can get pictures to show progress.


Edited by BetweenDimensionalPassings, 10 August 2017 - 02:24 PM.


#8 Knucklebrucks

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Posted 13 August 2017 - 07:49 AM

The substrate appears as though one has more water than the other, and I suspect the substrate is the same . This leads me to believe the sparse growth is water deficiency. Did you mix those up as you went  or did you mix up one big batch of substrate and then divide that into two separate trays?

 

Yeah. One batch that was mixed up and divided. Very possible one got more or less moisture than the others....
 






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