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The Shadowbox - A Low Maintenance Universal Fruiting Chamber Tek + Easy Ps. Mexicana Grow Tutorial


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#61 PJammer24

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Posted 29 May 2020 - 08:08 AM

 

Great, thank you for clarifying. Much appreciated!

I'm wondering what you use in your 50/50+ casing though? Verm and coir or verm and peat moss?

No problem :)

I use vermiculite and peat moss, or 10 : 1 : 0.5 mix of Peat moss : calcium carbonate : clean sand (ratios are by volume)

 

You may want to play with an oyster shell or similar addition to your casing mix. The peat can be pretty acidic and you might find better results lowering and buffering the casing PH with some type of calcium additive...



#62 Jinroh

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Posted 29 May 2020 - 12:41 PM

 

 

Great, thank you for clarifying. Much appreciated!

I'm wondering what you use in your 50/50+ casing though? Verm and coir or verm and peat moss?

No problem :)

I use vermiculite and peat moss, or 10 : 1 : 0.5 mix of Peat moss : calcium carbonate : clean sand (ratios are by volume)

 

You may want to play with an oyster shell or similar addition to your casing mix. The peat can be pretty acidic and you might find better results lowering and buffering the casing PH with some type of calcium additive...

 

I was thinking the same thing at first. I checked PH before and after adding the calcium carbonate and after that was added the PH fell right in line.
That being said, I am on day 39 with no activity with my Semperviva trays except two small fruits. However no contamination either. I am going to run these tubs until something happens one way or another. The moisture level is good, airflow and evaporation seem to be good. I think I am dealing with stubbornness.


Edited by Jinroh, 29 May 2020 - 12:45 PM.


#63 ChocolateStarfish

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Posted 01 June 2020 - 11:22 AM

Even without any bleach or salt, the perlite takes a looong time to contaminate. Even in the summer I’ve neglected to clean the chamber for months and didn’t notice any foul smell or obvious signs of contamination. Adding a pinch of something is a wise precaution though IMO, there’s nothing to lose aside from potentially weakening the plastic, airstones, tubing etc.

 

 

What i do, is i use a mixture of 40% hydrogen peroxide and 60% distilled water for the water I have under the perlite with my bubble-stones running in them. I think it works really well, and even if it ever happens to splash into my substrate, its not like the hydrogen peroxide will hurt my mycelium. And from then on, about every 3 days, i take out my trays, and squirt more hydrogen peroxide in there on the top of the perlite and on the walls and ceiling, to make up for any drying out, and to make sure everything stays good and semi sanitized... adding a little salt to the water may be a good idea as well, i just use hydrogen peroxide for EVERYTHING, and i think i have a pretty decent sterile tech.. Just my 2 cents.. 


Edited by ChocolateStarfish, 01 June 2020 - 11:23 AM.


#64 Jinroh

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Posted 21 June 2020 - 06:16 AM

I have been wondering about the purpose of having the perlite level above the FAE inlet holes in this design. Does keeping the level of perlite above the FAE inlet holes ensure that the incoming air pulls as much moisture from the perlite as possible or is there another reason?



#65 Jrotten

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Posted 21 June 2020 - 11:50 PM

Co2 is heavier so maybe it’s to help co2 passively escape?

#66 Jinroh

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 12:38 AM

Co2 is heavier so maybe it’s to help co2 passively escape?

That seems like just as good of a reason as anything else.



#67 DonShadow

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 01:22 PM

Both. The humidity stays consistently high when the perlite is above the holes, dries out too quickly otherwise. Fresh air is drawn through the fan hole and CO2 can escape through the bottom holes.

Edited by DonShadow, 22 June 2020 - 01:25 PM.

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#68 Jinroh

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 06:20 PM

Both. The humidity stays consistently high when the perlite is above the holes, dries out too quickly otherwise. Fresh air is drawn through the fan hole and CO2 can escape through the bottom holes.

That makes sense.



#69 DonShadow

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Posted 22 June 2020 - 07:16 PM

This fruiting chamber is open to criticism and improvement... it was my best attempt as a novice cultivator at creating a low-maintenance chamber that will work for practically any species of mushroom. It isn’t a substitute for learning proper growing techniques like stimulating pins, misting, fanning etc. Any modifications and criticisms are welcome and appreciated. I’ve had decent results with this tek but I have no doubt it could be greatly improved.

Edited by DonShadow, 23 June 2020 - 12:58 AM.

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#70 Jinroh

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Posted 23 June 2020 - 10:58 AM

I can't criticize your design. I used it for the first time with a species I have never fruited. So I have two unknowns at the same time. Probably not the best way to go about it but my effort was not without success. I did get fruits. Not sufficient for prints, but I know it works. I plan to try a species I am more familiar with in this box system to see how well it does. I will be fruiting more than one species in these boxes at the same time once the spawn is ready. Things should get interesting!



#71 Jrotten

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Posted 23 July 2020 - 09:00 PM

I need a small fc like this for summer time when I have to grow inside.  But this particular gasket box style tote is out of stock EVERYWHERE and it's either going to have to be 80qt which is too big, or I'll have to make something else work.  I'm thinking of one of the black husky style totes with weatherstripping on the lip. Sterlites I've had bad experience with before, but I think the Husky provides the face to do it.  I also think it could be made a little more stealthy this way.  

 

Anybody had good success going this route.  I've got literally everything else sitting here.



#72 Jinroh

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Posted 23 July 2020 - 10:21 PM

I have two of these chambers. One is made with the gasketed Sterlite and the other is a regular tote with no gasket. While I have had poor results fruiting Semperviva in general (on my second attempt now) I have had other strains fruit just fine in both tubs.


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