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CatsNBats' cacti/succulant thread.


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#61 pharmer

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Posted 20 August 2018 - 08:48 AM

They're fine. Stay the course.


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#62 CatsAndBats

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Posted 20 August 2018 - 09:08 AM

Mine do that on the cut scar all the time. It does not seem to cause issues and I have never seen it elsewhere.

 

 

They're fine. Stay the course.

 

 

 

 

Thanks fellas, I really really appreciate the timely responses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4554990661_1aed6ec16c_z.jpg

 

;)



#63 CatsAndBats

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 12:43 PM

gallery_147940_1513_464790.jpg

 

June 28th ^^^

 

post-147940-0-32493300-1537464952.jpg

 

September 20th ^^^

 

Sitting in straight perlite, no water except a foliage surface mist maybe twice (I can't help it, I need to do something).

 

post-147940-0-30558200-1537465194.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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#64 pharmer

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 01:36 PM

The rubber band is the Baker Clone correct?

 

That's good growth for as long as you've had it, very good in fact

 

The other in the top pic is showing signs of fattening. You'll see it in that very fresh flesh between the ribs right at the top. That indicates new roots and that it's finding and taking nutrition or at least moisture. They can suck water out of the air at night via the aereoles.

 

I'd guess you can start adding soil and perfectly composted yard waste into the mix.  Not too much and not too wet. You should be thinking about getting them out of the rain October first and let the pots dry out before bringing them in - maybe as soon as thanksgiving. If the soil gets quite dry they might even survive some 30 degree temps but I wouldn't risk that in this first year of their independence :)   The first night you get a weather forecast of freezing temps bring them in.  If you don't have too many you can move them in and out during the not-freezing days and nights, there'll be some all through December.  That hardening is good for them.

 

But at some point you'll have to commit to getting them indoors until spring. The coolest, darkest place you can arrange is the best.

 

You're doing well, Grasshopper.


Edited by pharmer, 20 September 2018 - 01:41 PM.

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#65 CatsAndBats

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 02:31 PM

The rubber band is the Baker Clone correct?

 

That's good growth for as long as you've had it, very good in fact

 

The other in the top pic is showing signs of fattening. You'll see it in that very fresh flesh between the ribs right at the top. That indicates new roots and that it's finding and taking nutrition or at least moisture. They can suck water out of the air at night via the aereoles.

 

I'd guess you can start adding soil and perfectly composted yard waste into the mix.  Not too much and not too wet. You should be thinking about getting them out of the rain October first and let the pots dry out before bringing them in - maybe as soon as thanksgiving. If the soil gets quite dry they might even survive some 30 degree temps but I wouldn't risk that in this first year of their independence :)   The first night you get a weather forecast of freezing temps bring them in.  If you don't have too many you can move them in and out during the not-freezing days and nights, there'll be some all through December.  That hardening is good for them.

 

But at some point you'll have to commit to getting them indoors until spring. The coolest, darkest place you can arrange is the best.

 

You're doing well, Grasshopper.

 

 

 

Yes, that's the baker clone.

 

Oh they aren't getting rain at all, they're bone dry except for the two mistings and whatever they're wicking from the air.

 

Will you detail "the hardening" a little bit? Plus how does one add soil?

 

I'm really really into non-soil grows now, whether it's just straight coir for pedro or straight sand/mineral subs for LWs. I love the idea of watering and having the sub dry out the same day and just adding trace minerals/nutrition as needed. Could I just add sand/silica/volcanic sand to these species? I know now that I can grow pedro in straight coir and all the cuttings are pupping and rooting.

 

post-147940-0-72029600-1537471806.jpg

 

Here's the new LWs that I haven't murdered.

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Edited by CatsAndBats, 20 September 2018 - 02:32 PM.

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#66 pharmer

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Posted 25 September 2018 - 07:33 PM

Hardening is a generic term for toughening or making plants more used to extremes in their environment.

 

In this case, more able to tolerate and survive colder temps. It could mean heat tolerant, bug tolerant, sun tolerant

 

Add soil? use a shovel


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#67 CatsAndBats

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Posted 26 September 2018 - 08:15 AM

Hardening is a generic term for toughening or making plants more used to extremes in their environment.

In this case, more able to tolerate and survive colder temps. It could mean heat tolerant, bug tolerant, sun tolerant

Add soil? use a shovel



Do you think that I can use sand and perlite only? Thank you for all of your help by the way. :thumbs_up:


Edited by CatsAndBats, 26 September 2018 - 08:15 AM.

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#68 pharmer

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Posted 26 September 2018 - 09:25 AM

I can't really advise on those. I grow in mineral-ly soil assuming that it will provide everything they need and feed rarely. They also get a couple doses of aerated compost tea each summer.

 

If grown in sand and perlite they'd need the right combo of fertilizer and supplements. I don't know what that combo is.

 

Your idea may work better than mine, and might get better yields.

 

Only one way to find out :)


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#69 Psilocyduck

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Posted 26 September 2018 - 09:35 AM

Those look beautiful CatsandBats! Every time I see a cacti thread I get a little bit more interested in learning about them :) I'm already sure this has inspired a future project/grow/addition for me.


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#70 CatsAndBats

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Posted 26 September 2018 - 10:06 AM

I can't really advise on those. I grow in mineral-ly soil assuming that it will provide everything they need and feed rarely. They also get a couple doses of aerated compost tea each summer.

 

If grown in sand and perlite they'd need the right combo of fertilizer and supplements. I don't know what that combo is.

 

Your idea may work better than mine, and might get better yields.

 

Only one way to find out :)

 

Thanks, indeed. :biggrin:

 

Those look beautiful CatsandBats! Every time I see a cacti thread I get a little bit more interested in learning about them :) I'm already sure this has inspired a future project/grow/addition for me.

 

Do it man, gotta bring your patience, which will give you plenty of time to read up and bother pharmer and skywatcher! :tongue:


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#71 CatsAndBats

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Posted 18 October 2018 - 07:50 PM

post-147940-0-30854800-1539909761.jpg

 

 

 

 

post-147940-0-84881800-1539909776.jpg

 

 

 

So the top pic is one that is getting kinda soft, I can start to water them right? The pedros are all doing it to, will watering correct this? Keep in mind that I haven't watered them at all and the pedros are in straight coir and the tall dude is in straight perlite.

 

Same question on the buttons, can I water them? They've been in sand/volcanic silica with no water at all. Is that coloration alright?

 

The columnar cacti (pedros, torches, etc) have just been moved inside due to a frost warning and the yotes have been inside the whole time.

 

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#72 Skywatcher

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Posted 18 October 2018 - 09:19 PM

Do you have some roots on the columnars? If you have roots, and the air is warm, a good drink would do them some good. Rehydrating the stores inside. I personally would water and then make sure they are warm enough to get the "soil" no more than moist in a 3-4 day period.

 

Coloration looks normal for needing water. They have to have grown a few roots to drink. If not you can get some hydration by misting the skin.

The only thing you do not want, is cold, wet soil.


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#73 CatsAndBats

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Posted 19 October 2018 - 12:32 AM

Do you have some roots on the columnars? If you have roots, and the air is warm, a good drink would do them some good. Rehydrating the stores inside. I personally would water and then make sure they are warm enough to get the "soil" no more than moist in a 3-4 day period.

 

Coloration looks normal for needing water. They have to have grown a few roots to drink. If not you can get some hydration by misting the skin.

The only thing you do not want, is cold, wet soil.

 

 

Oh everything has roots, so I'll do a light water all around. All the cacti are in substrate that will become bone dry in hours after watering. :biggrin:


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#74 Skywatcher

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Posted 19 October 2018 - 06:50 AM

If thats the case, start a more routine watering on a regular basis, maybe weekly for a while if you have them indoors and warm, until they are looking "full" again, then drop to about every other week.

Even in mid winter here I can water my cactus about once every 3 weeks lightly when there will be a few warm days in a row, so they have time to drink and then go dry.


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#75 coleman318

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Posted 22 October 2018 - 09:39 PM

Poor guys! They are probably okay but a drink sounds so good for their sake. I personally would start watering but my cactus experience is recent and not very deep. Have t killed anything yet though :D
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#76 pharmer

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Posted 22 October 2018 - 09:47 PM

oh hell yes, it's time for water

 

water only at first then in a month or two start adding some hydroponic nutes in low doses

 

that's how they ate before you got them


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