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Use Coarse Vermiculite!


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#21 Deleena24

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 12:24 AM

Lol. Like I said it prob a huge exaggeration. But I'm sticking to my comment that cubes will grow just fine at 66 degrees.
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#22 Soliver

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 04:03 PM

No arguments there - the only spot in my house that's consistently over 70 degrees is too close to the woodstove for concealment - alas.  I need a different floorplan, a different house, or a modern heating scenario (I hear lots of peeps like them heatpump thingys) ...

 

:)

 

soliver



#23 PJammer24

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 05:01 PM

No arguments there - the only spot in my house that's consistently over 70 degrees is too close to the woodstove for concealment - alas.  I need a different floorplan, a different house, or a modern heating scenario (I hear lots of peeps like them heatpump thingys) ...

 

:)

 

soliver

 

 

You don't want to go heat pump or anythng else that has forced air heat if you have the option...!! I would get a boiler and register heat... Way less air moving through the house, but thats just my 2 cents...


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#24 Soliver

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 06:16 PM

I'm too old-school to go back, I fear . . . wood heat is a goddman mess and requires effort, but said effort keeps me off the couch and active, and in the case of weather or other emergency, I've got head and a kickass cooking surface (I love my wood stove) . . .

 

When I visit family with forced air heat I feel like a chunk of wet jerky - I wake up stopped up and dry AF. 

 

And, besides the effort & chainsaw stuff, it's free.  My woodstove will be around long after I'm gone - can't say the same for my distant neighbor's 10 year heat pump module.

 

:)

 

soliver



#25 Deleena24

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 06:48 PM

I have a tiny ceramic heater with a safety switch on the bottom. If it decrompresses, it shuts off. So if it falls over, off. I have it about 2 ft off the ground on a ceramic tile thingy.

I have it running for half hour on 45min off and that's all that I had to do to increase room temp to over 70.

Using tub in tub is just not worth the risks. But dont knock well built heat bombs. They work well, for small spaces. And are safe as long as the glass is totally covered by water.

#26 Soliver

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Posted 20 November 2018 - 08:54 PM

I used a heat bomb for over ten years . . . they do work, and are safe if used properly, but are mostly unnecessary unless it's your first run and you just can't wait.

 

Heaters and enclosed areas are spooky - careful there!

 

:)

 

soliver



#27 Deleena24

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Posted 21 November 2018 - 12:59 PM

Yup, heaters aren't necessary for cubes as I keep saying. If I wasnt growing exotics I would've kept the room as is, but I know my P. Mexicana varieties wouldn't pin. Now I'm about to tray my Pan species so I need it warm.

Oh it's not really a small space it's a whole 12x10 room with linoleum floors.

Trust me, its safety first up in here.
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#28 spakk

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Posted 21 November 2018 - 01:37 PM

Did you shake that jar recently? Or milk it recently?

I ask because it looks like its recovering. It's not as thick as usual cube mycelium, yet all of the grains are covered.

Good eye - shook a few days previous.


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#29 spakk

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Posted 23 November 2018 - 12:15 PM

My fruiting chamber has rows of holes every two inches.  Since they seemed a bit moisture starved I employed clear shipping tape, and closed all but a row just above the Perlite, one or two below the lid and left three rows on the lid (bottom untouched).  They seem to be doing better now, but no veils - are the inverted caps a sign that they're past their prime?

 

GT b
GT a
GT e
GT d

Edited by spakk, 23 November 2018 - 12:17 PM.


#30 Sikfreud

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 04:21 AM

Sorry guys just a little nervous but I'm about to make some cakes and have fine vermiculite.  It seems that the consensus was that this was not the issue here but want to be sure.  Is it preferable to run with a courser vermiculite?  Or am I good to go? I have tried to be very meticulous about this process even purchased a nice pc and a heating mat for my incubation chamber ( keeping at 78-80F.).

 

Thanks :)


Edited by Sikfreud, 24 November 2018 - 04:44 AM.


#31 spakk

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 11:38 AM

Hey Sikfreud:

My apologies for the overly headline-like thread title. I'm relatively inexperienced, so such a bold assertion was more about me talking myself into a conclusion than anything fact-based . I came here looking for a single best way to do things and it's proven to be elusive, partly because anyone - like myself - can post their opinions.  That being said, it appears that the relatively fine vermiculite makes sense for rolling the cake (as pictured above). If I do cakes again, I'll try using a coarser grade for the flour/verm mixture.

 

I've harvested the first flush today, and the second image below has a faint green on the stems. Too much moisture?

 

G1 A
G1 B

Edited by spakk, 24 November 2018 - 11:39 AM.


#32 Sikfreud

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 12:35 PM

Okay guess it makes sense that the finer media would compact more. lol bit of a learning curve.  I'm a total newb myself so I cant answer your moisture question.  You have fruit though that's good:)



#33 roc

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 12:53 PM

Spakk

 

I think your moisture is about right from looking at your pictures.

 

I would not worry about a dunk with those. Maybe a heavy mist after going back in the chamber. Give them a good air exchange and you should be good to go for a second flush.
 

The blue green is normal from the stress of the end of the grow and production of spores.

 

Great job!


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#34 Soliver

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 05:35 PM

My fruiting chamber has rows of holes every two inches.  Since they seemed a bit moisture starved I employed clear shipping tape, and closed all but a row just above the Perlite, one or two below the lid and left three rows on the lid (bottom untouched).  They seem to be doing better now, but no veils - are the inverted caps a sign that they're past their prime?

 

 

When to harvest is a personal thing - lots of peeps harvest earlier to keep the mushrooms from dumping spores all over the place - the upturned caps just means they're mature & ready to sporulate, if they haven't started yet ....

 

Those shrooms had veils, they're just all broken - probably opened up while you were out... if you look at pic #2 at the bottom left, you can see the remaining veil on that younger cap ... once they break and dry out some they're hard to pick out.

 

:)

 

soliver


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#35 Deleena24

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 06:16 PM

I have always used fine vermiculite. It's just about impossible to find anything else here unless you order online.

And it's always worked fine.
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#36 spakk

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 09:54 PM

Put harvest in the bottom of the glove box with a fan on it for 24 hours. Then into a sealed container with a smaller DampRid container within for about 24 more hours. Powdery (cracker) dry now. Weigh-in at 4.678 grams. So, let's see, in Fadiman terms that's:

23 at 200mg (2-1/4 months)
15 at 300mg (1-1/2 months)
11 at 400mg (one month)
9 at 500mg (< 1 month)
1 practically 'heroic' dose. Nah.

 

Hardly a lifetime supply - here's to the rye berry spawn on the horizon.


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#37 CatsAndBats

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Posted 27 November 2018 - 09:57 PM

Sorry guys just a little nervous but I'm about to make some cakes and have fine vermiculite.  It seems that the consensus was that this was not the issue here but want to be sure.  Is it preferable to run with a courser vermiculite?  Or am I good to go? I have tried to be very meticulous about this process even purchased a nice pc and a heating mat for my incubation chamber ( keeping at 78-80F.).

 

Thanks :)

 

 

Any grade verm will work IME. I'd ditch the heating mat unless you live in an unheated home in a cold climate. Room temps are fine IMHO and IME.



#38 spakk

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Posted 27 November 2018 - 10:09 PM

Put harvest in the bottom of the glove box with a fan on it for 24 hours. Then into a sealed container with a smaller DampRid container within for about 24 more hours. Powdery (cracker) dry now. Weigh-in at 4.678 grams. So, let's see, in Fadiman terms that's:

23 at 200mg (2-1/4 months)
15 at 300mg (1-1/2 months)
11 at 400mg (one month)
9 at 500mg (< 1 month)
1 practically 'heroic' dose. Nah.

 

Hardly a lifetime supply - here's to the rye berry spawn on the horizon.

Make that 5.380g - had a large straggler that I'd cut down the length of the stem and left in the desiccant chamber.  Now it's 27 doses at 200mg, 17, 13.5, 10.7 etc  :)


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#39 CatsAndBats

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Posted 27 November 2018 - 10:25 PM

I confess, I didn't read the whole thread but you are going for microdoses I'm assuming?


Edited by CatsAndBats, 27 November 2018 - 10:25 PM.


#40 spakk

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Posted 28 November 2018 - 11:29 AM

I confess, I didn't read the whole thread but you are going for microdoses I'm assuming?

Yes - at least until the weather becomes more pleasant!


Edited by spakk, 28 November 2018 - 12:28 PM.

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