211 replies to this topic

[raymycoto]

Nice, then can you remove from the fridge for subsequent flushes?

[Deleena24]

I have gotten flushes after removing it from the fridge and harvesting but those were only in the fridge for about 2 weeks. They flushed like normal for me, too. No noticable effects from the fridge stay.

I think I'll pick one of those bags and see if it will pin again after a dunk. The older one on the right is from late September, so if it pins again we know those other flushes I got weren't a fluke.

[raymycoto]

Ha, that brings up another question - if you are going to be out of town for a flush, can you pause growth by placing in the fridge then return to fruiting temp? I think probably so.

[Deleena24]

I have never done it personally, but yes, it should work.

Don't freeze them, though. The water crystallizing will damage the mycelium for sure, down to the cellular level. Cells have water in them, so when they freeze, the water expands, and POP! The cell is destroyed.

[DanceOfBliss]

Bag is pinning!

[Deleena24]

Looks great!

Condensation looks good.

BTW I picked the fridge bags and one pinning beautifully again. The other looks like it's going to any minute.

[DanceOfBliss]

So with the bag, all of the mushrooms are growing at different speeds. Do I continue harvesting until it stops producing before dunking? Or pick everything at once and dunk with pins still on it?

[Deleena24]

So with the bag, all of the mushrooms are growing at different speeds. Do I continue harvesting until it stops producing before dunking? Or pick everything at once and dunk with pins still on it?

If there are a few that are much faster than the rest I would pick those and let the rest mature to be picked all at once.

It's really a matter of preference, though. I myself don't mind leaving the fast ones to open up while the others mature, but that's just me.

[DanceOfBliss]

Picked! PESH grow so much faster than the few other strains I’m trying. Ecuador is going at a snail’s pace.

[Billcoz]

Nice.

[DanceOfBliss]

In a monotub, does there need to be a casing layer? If so, is it just vermiculite? I’m hoping 2-3 qts spawn and 3-4lbs substrate is enough for a 66-qt tub!

[Billcoz]

In a monotub, does there need to be a casing layer? If so, is it just vermiculite? I’m hoping 2-3 qts spawn and 3-4lbs substrate is enough for a 66-qt tub!

Not for cubes, but you can use one. They can help protect the myc and keep moisture in the sub IMO. I have only ever used 75/25% verm/coir for my casings so far, and I case the sub 4-6 days after spawning to bulk. JKDeth(a member here) advised me that if the casing layer gets colonized, to carefully break up ONLY the casing layer with a fork where any myc starts showing through, and patch it, but it still colonizes more after doing that. If your grow area has dry air from a heater or furnace running then a casing seems smart to keep the sub moist, that's what I've gathered.

Edited by Billcoz, 12 February 2019 - 01:46 AM.

[DanceOfBliss]

Bag’s second flush, much better than the first. 71g wet. There were TONS of tiny aborts though. I should stop touching the bag!!!
Is it better to cut them rather than yank them out?
Also made another FC, golden teacher and huatla.

[Billcoz]

Damn, nice job. I have heard of people cutting, but it seems like the stumps might rot. 

[DanceOfBliss]

First pic: Weird mutations keep happening. This is GT, but I keep having it happen. No Lysol, only bleach and alcohol.
Pic 2: Ecuador...it is not nearly as white as my PESH which is in picture 3. Is it contaminated? The PESH is so pretty, thick, and stringy!
Also, I’m about to start agar!
My pressure cooker died and I bought a fancy new one that I’m looking forward to using.

[deemesis]

It might be this...

 

https://extension.ps...lium-dry-bubble

[jkdeth]

Mutation happens, verticillum is common. Its only cosmetic.

That jar with the stringy climbing mycelium, its bacterial. The two in the bottom picture could be as well. Fully colonized you see Uncolonized grain against the glass. Look close and see if those appear to be dry, Uncolonized grain, or if they look wet.

Bacteria isn't a death sentence or necessarily a tosser. The fungus is actually very good at dealing with bacteria.

The bottom two I would give a 2 to 5 days, no change or looks better, go for it, if its an issue it will get worse.

The stringy myc one I would still use if there are no other signs of contamination.

[DanceOfBliss]

The stringy myc just looks like super strong branches like I see in PF tek jars. I shook them up several days ago, so I am hoping the uncolonized kernels are just that. I will definitely throw the Ecuador’s away. I’ve suspected for a while that they’re contaminated. How do I know when to pick the dizzy fruits? I think that’s what I’ll call them now! They break their veil much sooner.

[raymycoto]

 

 

Hey, what does this thick, foamy base to the fruits indicate about your grow? I feel like it has something to do with hydration, humidity, FAE etc. I have a bin doing that with all fruits on the second flush. There are only small fruits and some looking like the want to abort. I suspect that my bin did go through a period of dryness but I hope I have remedied that problem. And I have done a reasonable rehydration (incremental 'dunk' during the last harvest) or so I believe.

Edited by raymycoto, 24 February 2019 - 08:35 PM.

[deemesis]

 

 

 

Hey, what does this thick, foamy base to the fruits indicate about your grow? I feel like it has something to do with hydration, humidity, FAE etc. I have a bin doing that with all fruits on the second flush. There are only small fruits and some looking like the want to abort. I suspect that it did my bin did go through a period of dryness but I hope I have remedied that problem. And I have done a reasonable rehydration (incremental 'dunk' during the last harvest).

 

 

They look perfect to me.