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#21 PJammer24

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 12:58 PM

Using the fridge to extend the life of spawn is a great idea... Do the same for all cultures... 

 

I was recently chastised for having more room used in my fridge with various types of spawn and LC than food....

 

Working on getting a 2nd fridge... Until then, they can starve and eat canned soup for all I care... Priorities are priorities!!! 


Edited by PJammer24, 19 December 2018 - 12:59 PM.

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#22 Billcoz

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 02:58 AM

 Damn right PJ lol!

 

 I have a question for anyone following, I want to make an LC for each of my strains, but I want to make it from selected genetics so that when I noc up some grain, it grows out predictably and favorably, with large pinsets, fruits in huge clusters.

 

 I know I can get that by cloning the best fruits and growing it out on agar(to outrun any contams) and making the LC from that, or I could isolate and grow out genetic strains from agar plates(which I am doing for practice, but haven't gotten an isolate yet), so my question is, which is a better route to take to get what I am after, those tubs/trays of flushes that look like there is no more room to squeeze even one more mushroom into the canopy, which is flat because all the fruits are the same hieght, and all huge, like I see in the myco-porn I see on these forums?

 

 Is it better to fruit all my single-sector isolates from agar to test them(when I get them isolated), and make my LC out of the best fruiting plates(and make master slants), or is it better to get those nice flushes by cloning the best fruits from the best flushes/clusters, make sure it's clean on agar, then make the LC from that?

 

 I have some agar dishes that I made some transfers from(for practice) that will probably be single-sectors in a couple transfers, I just have trouble seeing the sectors because I used tupperware, if it was petris, it would be so much easier to see, I've seen posts(on shroomery) of guys with pics they claiming are monocultures, and are clearly still multiple sectors still in the plate.

 

 Is it correct that if I clone a fruit it would be grow on agar as a monoculture? And what would be the diff, or is an isolated single genetic sector just like having a cloned strain, just un-tested, and might not even fruit? Thanks, I'm learning, that's the reason I want monoculture, just to say I can and have done it, and for those bad ass flushes.



#23 Billcoz

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 03:01 AM

 

 

Edit: What I am describing has nothing to do with Senescence... It has more to do with the resources being depleted.

 Yeah that makes so much sense, I feel embarrassed I didn't think about it , it will run out of food before senescense lol.



#24 Deleena24

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 10:22 AM

Growers on our scale dont ever have to worry about senescence, it takes hundred maybe thousands of transfers from the same clone...

Anyways, I skipped the agar and LC altogether. Or rather I did them together while going straight to grain. I took a piece of tissue from the inside of my clone and went straight to grain. Once that's colonized, you can do G2G as much as youd like. Once this is established, you can make an LC or go to agar if you haven't already.

Every once in a while print the clones, repeat, and you'll eventually have your own personal strain!

#25 jkdeth

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 05:51 PM

Cloning alone works great, but its not a monoculture. Its a great shortcut to a good monoculture though. You can improve overall genetics alternating cloning and printing. For instance clone a cluster, grow it out, take print, grow spores, clone a cluster, repeat. Eventually you'll improve the clustering, even from ms inoculation.

A monoculture is not a bad idea, but things work so well with just good genetics, most don't go to the trouble.
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#26 Billcoz

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 07:01 PM

 Cool JK thanks, that answers the question well. I was hoping I could get to a point where I have a master culture of each strain that I can make quick, small batches of LC to hit grains with whenever I want to fruit that strain out, maybe a master for the two or three best-fruiting isolates of each "strain" I got.

 

 The only reason I haven't just started g2g is to save space, but I'm rearranging my grow room, so I will eventually be doing it.



#27 jkdeth

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 07:31 PM

You can do masters with clones. Or try sectoring them further at any point. Its can pretty interesting to get a monoculture down. Just a lot of extra time. Starting with a clone does speed up the process.
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#28 WalkingCatfish

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Posted 20 December 2018 - 08:43 PM

Growers on our scale dont ever have to worry about senescence, it takes hundred maybe thousands of transfers from the same clone...

I didn't know this. It would be nice to know roughly many "agar inches" of hyphae we can grow before we have to let the dikaryon complete its cycle and produce new spores. In my earlier grows, I had some refrigerated cultures lose potency, and attributed that to senescence...but maybe some other issue caused the problem.


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#29 Deleena24

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Posted 21 December 2018 - 01:53 AM


Growers on our scale dont ever have to worry about senescence, it takes hundred maybe thousands of transfers from the same clone...

I didn't know this. It would be nice to know roughly many "agar inches" of hyphae we can grow before we have to let the dikaryon complete its cycle and produce new spores. In my earlier grows, I had some refrigerated cultures lose potency, and attributed that to senescence...but maybe some other issue caused the problem.

I have wondered about that myself. I'll try and find more info. I've heard about loss of potency from refrigerated samples...I'll read more about it and post links if I find anything

#30 Billcoz

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 02:53 AM

You can do masters with clones. Or try sectoring them further at any point. Its can pretty interesting to get a monoculture down. Just a lot of extra time. Starting with a clone does speed up the process.

 Yeah that's kinda what I'm focusing on now, rather than fruiting, I'm interested in learning how to manipulate genetics with cloning and isolations, get good at all that, and only fruit out small batches(I have a possible contam in one now) so I can grab the fruits with my desired traits and get a stock of selected genetics to select from and play with.

 

 I just gotta get some actual mushers growing to clone from(seems like it's been sooo long, only a week & a half).

 

 Does anyone have any experience cloning from dried fruits? I've read about it in old shr&@*mry archives(swear word around here sometimes lol), they took a piece from the inside of the base of the stipe and put it on agar.

 

 Whatever the original tek was that the guy who's post I was reading linked in the thread, said to use peroxide, but the guys who were discussing it in the thread recommended not to.

 

 I would rather just do quick transfers of the healthiest myc, if it would even grow from dried mush/myc material, from a dead fruit.

 

 Anyone think that's possible?


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#31 Deleena24

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Posted 23 December 2018 - 01:26 PM

This is from our archives. At the top of the page you'll notice more links on the procedure.

https://mycotopia.ne...html?1106008656
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#32 Billcoz

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Posted 23 December 2018 - 02:24 PM

 Lol, that was the thread I was thinking of, I'm dumb, for some reason I remembered "shroomery" archive, Hippie was the OP, shoulda remembered that.

 

 It's an awesome read, and the links they posted in there are good as well, thanks for posting it here.



#33 Billcoz

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Posted 29 December 2018 - 11:55 AM

 So I just went to upload the new pictures of this popcorn spawned 6 quart tub that I just opened to this post and my friggin phone died, it takes forever to charge it, but I'll get em added,.

 

 The B+ colonized the ~80/20 coir/verm sub really well, with rhizomorphic "fans" of mycelium trying to crawl up the black plastic liner and out, and looks eager to pin, with some knots distributed across the sub surface, though I thought the same about the last one and it had taken over 25 days to start pinning due to dry air.

 

 This one had a lot of doplets/puddles of water on the sub, so I carefully drained it off as best as I could, but there are still droplets, & I did try to wick some off by carefully dabbing the drops with a corner of a dry paper towel.

 

 I had some problems trying to cut the heavy duty plastic liner, which was taped to the tub, but still was a bitch to cut without bumping the myc and pulling at the liner.

 

 Plus I messed up when I taped up the GE holes in the bottom tub because I taped the inside, as I already had tyvec covering the holes, glued to the outside, so I taped the inside. It was a bitch to get the tape off without mushing my knuckle into the sub, so I had to cut out the holes and leave tape stuck on the inside, oh well.

 

 So I'll get the pics posted on here, I have a technique for the lids of these 6 quart dubtub setups that really improves the ease of use, check it out when I post em.



#34 Billcoz

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Posted 30 December 2018 - 05:45 AM

As promised here's some pics of the 6 qt tub, spawned 12/18-IMG_20181230_044811.jpg IMG_20181230_044935.jpg

IMG_20181230_044917.jpg IMG_20181230_044826.jpg -Check out the rhizo-myc trying to escape.

 

 I wanted to show what I am doing for my top dubtubs, they do not seat or seal very well and they have to be held on so I was using twist ties through holes in the lips like a hinge with non-adhesive, stretchy medical wrap, wrapped around the seam to control FAE.

 

 To improve this I took the top tub, put the lid(that is not in use) on the tub upside down. The contours of the lid seat down in the tub straight, and I cut along the groove that goes around the whole lid about an inch in from the edge all the way around.

 

 I used double sided tape and hot glue to attach and seal it, so that when I put it on the bottom tub, it latches like the lid is supposed to, not sealed airtight, but probably better that the med wrap, and is much simpler-

IMG_20181230_045600.jpg IMG_20181230_045356.jpg IMG_20181230_045454.jpg IMG_20181229_102213.jpg

 And again, I hot-glued paint-suit tyvec over the six 1.25" FAE holes on the top tub, and a single layer of micropore tape over the row of .25", and six 1.25" GE holes in the bottom tub.

 


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#35 Billcoz

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Posted 30 December 2018 - 06:10 AM

Oh, forgot to ask what you guys think, would it be worth it to grab a "fan" of the rhizo-myc that is climbing up the liner with sterilized tweezers, and put it on agar? 



#36 Deleena24

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Posted 30 December 2018 - 02:02 PM

I like your lid idea. I might just have to try that. I'm one of those people who seal the whole thing with micropore tape.
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#37 Billcoz

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Posted 31 December 2018 - 03:24 AM

 Today I spawned two more  popcorn pints to about ~60/40 coir/verm mix, in another 6 qt tub, at a 1:2 spawn/sub ratio, with a very light dusting of coir on top to cover some of the exposed grains, though some are still showing.

 

 This p-corn was inoculated at the same time as the last ones with BRF paste wedges(agar substitute), you can see the wedge inside the jar in the pic-IMG_20181231_011031.jpg IMG_20181231_010824.jpg Here's how I am doing grain jar lids, plastic with a 3/8" hole with RTV for a port, and a 1/4" GE covered with 2 layers of micropore-IMG_20181231_010746.jpg Same steps as last time, heavy duty balck liner, covered in tin foil, then the lid. This time I got the 6 qt Sterilite tubs from Target, they are better for dubtubs than the 6 qt Sterilites that Wal-Mart sells, they have the same Sterilte sticker, with the same dimensions printed, though the Target ones are slightly taller and wider, & the bottoms are flatter and more transparent, plus the lip edge is wider and flatter, so it seats better, plus they stack better, the others slide of too easily. Again, I use a spark plug socket heated up to melt the six 1.25" holes per tub, I keep the hole cut-outs to glue back in place if I need a holeless tub-IMG_20181231_012434.jpg IMG_20181231_012343.jpg IMG_20181231_014150.jpg IMG_20181231_013521.jpg IMG_20181231_014227.jpg

 Sorry 'bout the dark pics, I'll be updating in ten days or so when I check it, any comments or criticism? 


Edited by Billcoz, 31 December 2018 - 03:27 AM.


#38 Billcoz

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 02:24 AM

UPDATE - I cased the last tray with ~70/30(ish) verm/coir in a thin layer, just enough to cover the surface. It was about 65% colonized after 8 days.

 

 I had read about delayed casing in a thread originally by Fahtster-https://mycotopia.ne...of-late-casing/. I think Deleena24 gave me the link, or it might have been a different link about casing.

 

 Is this the right(or a good) way to do this? 



#39 Deleena24

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 11:15 PM

I didnt give the link but I was the one who mentioned late casing. I remember it working really well.

You should know better than now than to say the right way. There is no right way, just what works in your situation. I say go for it, but go thinly. I'm one of the people who think casings are for exotics only. I have had better results without casing for cubes, but then again I keep my projects tiny.

Edit. Faht is a legend. You can trust his teks. One of the best growers years ago...is he still around?

Edited by Deleena24, 09 January 2019 - 11:16 PM.

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#40 Billcoz

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Posted 10 January 2019 - 03:24 PM

IDK if fahtster is still around, coorsmikey or jkdeth probably know though. Was he on shroomery mostly? I've read many posts from him, Hippie, and others. Every time I think I got some great original idea and do a search, then I find that one of those guys already posted a tek about it that's been in the archives for decades lol.

 

It's funny cuz I don't know but maybe two other people, not counting online, that know who those guys are, but to me they are like celebs now. I have been reading through posts for 3 1/2 yrs and you get to know their personality after so many posts. I've sat here many mornings reading threads, falling down rabbit holes, there really is all the info anyone could ever need.

 

WRONG D24, MY WAY IS THE RIGHT WAY! No, i'm sorry, your right, there is no "right" way, but there could be a reason not to do it a certain way, so that's what I need to know. I'm pretty sure it'l' work though.

 

 

 

 


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