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rookie attempt at wbs flour grow log


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#41 roc

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 02:00 PM

If it's from mucked stalls it'll need six months or more to compost due to the high content of urine.
 

Horses piss a lot and it's tempting to grab because they have straw as well but the quickest way to kill a good jar of spawn is some hot poo.
The nitrogen content is high!

I never had any luck with bagged poo because of this problem.

All I'm saying is be careful with a mucked stall unless it's been composted well!


Edited by roc, 22 January 2019 - 02:01 PM.

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#42 jkdeth

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 03:03 PM

Its was good, this was "back in the day" when everybody leached it anyway.
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#43 417outsiders

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 05:43 PM

If it's from mucked stalls it'll need six months or more to compost due to the high content of urine.

Horses piss a lot and it's tempting to grab because they have straw as well but the quickest way to kill a good jar of spawn is some hot poo.
The nitrogen content is high!
I never had any luck with bagged poo because of this problem.
All I'm saying is be careful with a mucked stall unless it's been composted well!


Well, to make up a phrase, these are free range horses. No stalls, just open fields. I've got access to more hay than Quaker's got oats. But obviously they still piss, and have no concern with whether or not it's on top of their poo, they are tame, but I have a feeling it would be a tricky conversation trying to get them not to pee on their poop

Edited by 417outsiders, 22 January 2019 - 05:46 PM.


#44 roc

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Posted 23 January 2019 - 07:01 AM

 

If it's from mucked stalls it'll need six months or more to compost due to the high content of urine.

Horses piss a lot and it's tempting to grab because they have straw as well but the quickest way to kill a good jar of spawn is some hot poo.
The nitrogen content is high!
I never had any luck with bagged poo because of this problem.
All I'm saying is be careful with a mucked stall unless it's been composted well!


Well, to make up a phrase, these are free range horses. No stalls, just open fields. I've got access to more hay than Quaker's got oats. But obviously they still piss, and have no concern with whether or not it's on top of their poo, they are tame, but I have a feeling it would be a tricky conversation trying to get them not to pee on their poop

 

Perfect!
Exactly what I use!
You don't even have to mix in straw.

Sun dried golden nuggets!


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#45 417outsiders

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Posted 25 January 2019 - 01:38 PM

Jan 25th- 11 days in -
Is this too much condensation, pretty much the same throughout all the jars, there is none with water pooling in the bottom, just what you can see on the sides.IMG_20190125_122756.jpg IMG_20190125_122804.jpg IMG_20190125_122810.jpg IMG_20190125_122820.jpg
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#46 jkdeth

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Posted 25 January 2019 - 02:17 PM

Not a problem. Pretty common. As long as they colonize well and don't show any other signs of contaminant. Let em run till you see pins.
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#47 roc

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Posted 25 January 2019 - 06:43 PM

Jan 25th- 11 days in -
Is this too much condensation, pretty much the same throughout all the jars, there is none with water pooling in the bottom, just what you can see on the sides.attachicon.gifIMG_20190125_122756.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20190125_122804.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20190125_122810.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20190125_122820.jpg

Very nicely done!

I've been known to flip over a jar that was stubborn about finishing on the bottom.
For 11 days these are doing very well.
 



#48 417outsiders

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Posted 25 January 2019 - 08:39 PM

And just so u don't think I'm not following advice, these jars were made before the conversation about my verm layer being too thick.. which it obviously is.

Edited by 417outsiders, 25 January 2019 - 08:40 PM.

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#49 Deleena24

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Posted 26 January 2019 - 02:01 PM

And just so u don't think I'm not following advice, these jars were made before the conversation about my verm layer being too thick.. which it obviously is.


Oh dont worry about that. It's doing its job well, you're getting clean mycelium. The only time it would be an actual problem is if the verm layer is so thick the needle cant get below it. In those cases you'll end up innoculating the dry verm, and you'll either contam or never see growth.

That's not the case here...looking good!

#50 417outsiders

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 04:07 PM

Feb 1st - day 18
IMG_20190201_145858.jpg IMG_20190201_145720.jpg IMG_20190201_145522.jpg

fluffy myc, or pins? What's the substrate/jars ratio?

#51 roc

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Posted 01 February 2019 - 11:26 PM

Looking good!
Be patient.



#52 417outsiders

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 12:15 PM

Horse poo is definitely better than cow... I know it can be done with just verm and poo but I am not sure of the ratios.

If you're in the country straw is an excellent substrate additive

Give me some time to check on the ratios, maybe someone else will chime in.

Do you have lime and gypsum?

FYI, I have two brain cells, and they are currently fighting each other to survive.  I've now confused myself reading so many threads and teks and logs...  If I add a crumbled colonized jar to quart jars that have been PC'd with wbs/water and let that colonize, is that considered spawning, or is it spawning when those quart jars get added to a bulk substrate mixture of coir or hpoo or organic MG?  whats the casing? Its optional I gather, like the verm that cakes can be rolled in after dunking..which is also optional..  I feel I have digressed.



#53 Deleena24

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 12:23 PM

Spawning is when you add the colonized grain to a bulk substrate, like horse poo.

If you add colonized material to a new grain jar it's called a grain to grain transfer aka G2G.

Casing is a non nutritious layer on top to help keep the microclimate.

https://mycotopia.ne...de/#entry133311
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#54 417outsiders

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 12:34 PM

Spawning is when you add the colonized grain to a bulk substrate, like horse poo.

If you add colonized material to a new grain jar it's called a grain to grain transfer aka G2G.

Casing is a non nutritious layer on top to help keep the microclimate.

https://mycotopia.ne...de/#entry133311

 

So, G2G is just to increase the amount of colonized material, a multiplier of sorts?  To increase yield?



#55 Deleena24

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 01:21 PM

Yeah, it's a really quick way of getting more colonized material. It's much faster than starting grain from spores or even LC.

The jar you take the material from for using to innoculate other jars is called the Master.

There is a glossary somewhere here, it is super useful for learning all the terms we use here. I cant find it, though. I'm super high, sorry.

#56 aqudoc

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 01:43 PM

Yeah, it's a really quick way of getting more colonized material. It's much faster than starting grain from spores or even LC.

The jar you take the material from for using to innoculate other jars is called the Master.

There is a glossary somewhere here, it is super useful for learning all the terms we use here. I cant find it, though. I'm super high, sorry.

https://mycotopia.ne...ry#entry1299295


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#57 417outsiders

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 10:41 PM

 

 

Nice job!

If you want to play around - instead of a dunk and going for the 4th flush you could blend a cake up and use it to spawn a miniature bulk grow or some WBS in a tray.

I like your style, i do want to use a few for that. Valuable experience with extremely low risk.  Perfect scenario if you ask me.  What is this wbs in a tray you speak of. 

 

If you have a butt load of vermiculite and whole WBS you could fill quart canning jars a little less than halfway with WBS and then water halfway up the WBS, pressure cook for 50-60 minutes, shake and break up when cool enough to touch, let them set until completely cool and then inoculate with half of a crumbled up cake, shake and let it get colonized. If you don't want to hassle with trays and a grow chamber then grow them out right in the jars invitro like the neglect tek found here in the archives.

I haven't used a tyvek lid but don't see  why it wont work. Be sure and cover the top with heavy tinfoil during the pressure cooker. I normally use the canning lid with 4 nail head holes. If you use lids punch the nail holes from the topside so the nasty sharp metal is facing down.

When you transfer the crushed up cake (pretty fine) and be cautious about contamination. Be quick and don't leave the top off. Just open it enough to quickly transfer.
 

Lot's of info in the archives on WBS as spawn and prep. Grain transfers are also there.
Check my old thread in my signature to see what the WBS will look like colonized. You can also get an idea of tray growing for future reference. Horse dung, straight grain, straw, etc can be used as a substrate.

 

I was wondering your opinion on removing sunflower seeds, or leave them be? Its not unanimous, but it seems most say remove.  I figured removing them may be unnecessary, but leaving them doesn't gain me anything.  Or did I misunderstand?  And am I correct in saying that I can PC quart jars 1/2 full of WBS w/ water 1/2 way up the WBS no pre soaking or prepping?



#58 jkdeth

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 10:47 PM

Rinse I a lot of water, remove the floater. No more effort than that neccesary.

Spawning with a cake that's been through multiple flushes isn't a good idea.
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#59 417outsiders

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 10:52 PM

The way I understand it is that this is hpoo that has had mushrooms grown in it once already...?

mush compost.jpg



#60 417outsiders

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 10:54 PM

Rinse I a lot of water, remove the floater. No more effort than that neccesary.

Spawning with a cake that's been through multiple flushes isn't a good idea.

My cakes from 1st round have been pitched, this is for the 10 jars looking real close to colonized. 






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