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#41 Billcoz

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Posted 21 February 2019 - 09:42 PM

I remember watching the video not paying attention to names and then watching an interview with paul stamets and they looked relatively the same, maybe I was toking at the time and confused the faces. I know Jim Read was one of the names mentioned in the video and was posted by Marc Keith on YouTube so I believe you are correct and I did in fact confuse the two. Good catch and thank you for clearing that up for me. Apologies for the confusion to anyone who has read through this thread thus far. :)

Ha, tokin'll do that to ya.


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#42 Kola

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Posted 22 February 2019 - 08:15 PM

Yea it will but cant get away from it! aswell as the pins are sorta visible now. I'm stoked! 828fa482f310959026cc8083ba445cde.jpg

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#43 Kola

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Posted 22 February 2019 - 08:17 PM

That setup its sick! Maybe I'll be there eventually one day. Do you have to maintain during fruiting or jus fill em and come back to harvest?

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#44 MycoAnt81

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Posted 22 February 2019 - 08:20 PM

That setup its sick! Maybe I'll be there eventually one day. Do you have to maintain during fruiting or jus fill em and come back to harvest?

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The tops are pretty translucent and clear in some spots so I can see inside while fruiting. I have to add water every couple days to the fogger tank, and I pick them when the veils break. Pretty easy. I mainly bulk grain spawn to substrate. Peace.
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#45 Kola

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 12:25 PM

Hey guys quick update, everything is still looking the same for the most part, though I did remove most the tape to get more evaporation, but in doing so the 1 cake in my sgfc that doesn't have DEC or casing seems to be saying fast. Over the last 2 days its turned from just a tad bit of blueish on it to quite a large amount. I guess what I'm asking is is there anything I can do to help it? Maybe bake some dry verm and after it cools make a DEC for it?not sure if its recommended to do that since its already been in fruiting conditions for about a week. Not sure what to do about with em at this point. Any advice would be greatly appriciated, thanks. 4418b39e44cb92a3aaf2897002b4f9ef.jpg8134d9ecf882668a0acdac6ece8bc212.jpgdfbfc3c151db0050f7843576fce7a9a4.jpg

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#46 jkdeth

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 01:34 PM

Its drying out. W hats the story on that one? Why did you approach it differently?

#47 Kola

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 02:09 PM

Well I had decided on sgfc at first so I bought all the supplies, I planned to do 6 in sgfc and 3 in chronic tek(as I am now). Just to see the difference since I'm new to this. Well I changed it up last minute and decided to do 4 in chronic and 5 invitro. Well me being me, I kept reading and after 2-3 days in chronic/vitro I decided that the sgfc would probably be a better option. I dunked the invitro cakes and water was pooling in the jars so I was getting paranoid about contams, thus leading me to go back to the original plan of using sgfc, so I dunked them for another 3 hours, just go get the verm to stick, then DECd and put in sgfc. The 1 that's naked was one of the chronics, figured I didnt need 4 naked cakes in chronic so I kind of just put it in the FC to see how it would do without being DEC or rolled. I was having a hard time finding info out if you should roll and DEC inside of chronic or not so I decided to just leave them unrolled since the environment is so small and it should hold it's own humidity. What's your opinion on that? Do you think it matters? And as for the naked one in the FC, is there anything I can do for it? Maybe sterilize some verm and after it cools put on DEC on it? Idkk how that works since it's been in fruiting conditions for about a week. I dont want to overspray to keep just that 1 hydrated cause then my other 5 will end up waterlogged. I could put it back into a mini FC if needbe if it continues to dry out at such a substantial rate compared to the others. What would you do?

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#48 jkdeth

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 02:14 PM

I'd dunk it 5 or six hours and do it like the others. I also like a half inch or so of verm under my cakes and keep it pretty wet. You don't need to sterilize the vermiculite.
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#49 Kola

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 02:34 PM

Awesome I'll get on that now, thanks so much for the quick reply. Im gonna dunk for 5 hours, roll in some fine verm, and then DEC it with coarse verm? Should I DEC and roll it, or does it make a difference? is DEC just better in general for cakes? Sorry, I hate asking questions I'm just trying to learn everything I can. This is super interesting to me. I already got 8 more colonizing jars, 3 of them have been colonized for 10 days now, 2 of them hit 100% colonized yesterday and the other 3 are between 80-95%done. Inoculated those 8 about 3 weeks ago. The first 3 finished 100% in like 10-12 days. Was from a MS to. Maybe just lucky. Thankyou for all the suggestions and help so far!

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#50 Kola

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 02:44 PM

Do you think that if it's gotten that dry it could have contams in it? its looking blueish/green. I thought bruising more just blue. If so, would it be a bad idea to put like 1-2 drops of peroxide in the dunk water? I used about 2- 2.5 cups of water to dunk in.

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#51 jkdeth

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 03:18 PM

Not neccesary. Its well colonized and that's typical Blueing. It will be pretty hard to contaminate now.
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#52 Billcoz

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 04:14 AM

Yeah man, it looks like dryness causing the blue, that's not green at all, you can test it if you want to be sure, just take a clean cotton swab(q-tip) and wipe the bluish area with it, if any of the blue/green comes off on the cotton, then it is green mold spores, if the color does not rub off and show on the tip, it's bruise. The cake is naked so the corners where it's thinner is getting bruisy, you should be fine rolling it in verm if you want, or just do a layer underneath and on top, so you can wet it. You don't want to start trying to use peoxide on them, usually people warn against that, as it can damage the myc. Your still looking good, don't panic lol.


Edited by Billcoz, 25 February 2019 - 04:15 AM.

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#53 Kola

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 06:06 AM

Good advice! Thanks for the calming words. I ended up doing a 6 hour dunk and doing a slight roll in professional grade verm, really light coat to cover up some of the bruising and hold moisture around the dry areas, then I DECd with some coarse verm. Get me kind of worried when I go check my FC and all the walls/ top inch if perlit are usually dry. Gotta keep in mind that the sgfc is setup like that, lol seems like it's supposed to dry quickly for evaporation. Most if my cakes are starting to have small white fluff strands pops up like it's looking for the barrier between the dry verm and the air, starting to be some little bumps to. All good signs I hope! Only thing that's concerning rn is in the chronic tek pics above, the little pin head that I thought waa the start if a pin may not be, it's been looking the same as the pic above for 3 days or so now. I'm sure it will spring into action soon.:) :)

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#54 Billcoz

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 08:31 AM

Good advice! Thanks for the calming words. I ended up doing a 6 hour dunk and doing a slight roll in professional grade verm, really light coat to cover up some of the bruising and hold moisture around the dry areas, then I DECd with some coarse verm. Get me kind of worried when I go check my FC and all the walls/ top inch if perlit are usually dry. Gotta keep in mind that the sgfc is setup like that, lol seems like it's supposed to dry quickly for evaporation. Most if my cakes are starting to have small white fluff strands pops up like it's looking for the barrier between the dry verm and the air, starting to be some little bumps to. All good signs I hope! Only thing that's concerning rn is in the chronic tek pics above, the little pin head that I thought waa the start if a pin may not be, it's been looking the same as the pic above for 3 days or so now. I'm sure it will spring into action soon.:) :)

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Good plan dude. Yes, sounds like some knotting happening, pins will come soon, patience! Sometimes, just so you know, if you over compensate for dryness by spraying, or dunking/handling too much, you can cause some pins to abort, so I would suggest that you take advive I read Deleena24 and JKDeth mention, to cover at least some of the holes with micropore tape, if you haven't already, and if you did cover some already, try to cover more/the rest of em. Controlling the moisture on the surface and the RH with FAE control(fresh air exchange) is better than having too much water touch the surface of the cakes, which is delicate after all. The verm barrier obviously helps protect it in that sense, but also makes a "micro climate" around the cakes. Evaporation causes pinning, so misting/fanning adds a tiny bit of moisture then quickly evaps it, "tricking" the myc into pinning, by allowing evapping without losing any original moisture from the cakes. Just some info I think is fascinating.



#55 Kola

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 09:17 AM

Good to know I will do that when I get home, I had some micropore over half the holes on the sides, then covered it with duct tape, didn't like the idea of the adhesive touching the air inside the FC, but I have since removed all the tape including the micropore, I'll deff reapply some though if its believed to help. When I mist I usually only hold my bottle around an inch or 2 from the perlit and spray 3-4 squirts on each area between the cakes, careful not to get the cakes wet just the perlit, then I'll back up a few feet and give it about 4-6 sprays of a fine mist so it layers over the entire FC, then I fan for about 5-10 seconds just to replace the CO2 with fresh O2. I usually still have very small amount of water drops towards the top of the FC walls after about 8 hours with it being close, but they are very small like pin tips usually. Seems like a good sign that a it is still holding a little bit of moisture. And I have a good calibrated cigar analog meter that I check humidity twice a day with for about an hour or 2. Seems to read between 95-100% after being in the FC for 30min+. Seems like everything looking good. Thanks so all the suggestions thus far! I'll keep everyone updated!

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#56 Deleena24

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 11:24 AM

I really hope removing all the tape doesnt dry those out. The adhesive worries aren't anything. Micropore is meant to secure dressing on wounds...its pretty sterile, and since your cakes are fully colonized worrying about contams goes way down on the priority list.

With cakes you want as close to 100% humidity, and IME the more you keep messing with them and changing things, the longer things take and the worse the results.

I'd put back on at least some of the micropore if it were me, because you seem to be doing enough fanning that many open holes aren't necessary.

The single most valuable skill in mycology is patience.

You've learned a lot. Stick to a method and keep at it.
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#57 Kola

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 12:22 PM

I really hope removing all the tape doesnt dry those out. The adhesive worries aren't anything. Micropore is meant to secure dressing on wounds...its pretty sterile, and since your cakes are fully colonized worrying about contams goes way down on the priority list.

With cakes you want as close to 100% humidity, and IME the more you keep messing with them and changing things, the longer things take and the worse the results.

I'd put back on at least some of the micropore if it were me, because you seem to be doing enough fanning that many open holes aren't necessary.

The single most valuable skill in mycology is patience.

You've learned a lot. Stick to a method and keep at it.

I am definately going to out micropore tape on when I get home, I planned on leaving it but the duct tape pulled it off when I removed it. Didnt think it would be necessary to go back over it but with this insight I I going to make sure I do, would you recommend doing the whole thing? All 6 sides or just some of them.

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#58 Deleena24

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 01:38 PM

When I used tubs like that, I'd put the holes above the perlite on all 6 sides, and a couple inches from the top on all 6 sides. With fanning and misting only 2 or 3x a day, I got great results. Some people dont put ANY holes if they're misting and fanning, they just leave the lid slightly cracked.

Looks like you've got 4 rows above the perlite on all six sides. If it were me, I'd cover the 2 middle rows of holes on all 6 side with a dbl layer of micropore. It should be perfect IMO and experience after that.

My motto with holes in FCs and cubes is start with the least amount possible, and put more if things get soggy. If you're fanning, they will fruit. Shit, cubes grow great invitro, it's all about consistency, enough moisture and patience. IMHO, and I'm gonna get flamed for this, FAE for cubes is not a huge concern, its the humidity and moisture content of the sub.
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#59 Kola

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 03:33 PM

I'm on my way home now and going to do just that. The original reason why I did tape it was cause I kept reading people using sgfc to spec and having problems after like 2 weeks with no pins and drying, or anything for like 2-3 weeks then someone would tell them to cover holes and basically say what you just did, on almost every thread not even 3-4 days passed and they were already sharing pictures of pins and fruits. When I removed the tape it was cause the same droplets of water from my light misting would stay on the cakes till the next time I was supposed to mist. Figures there was no evaporation just a ton of humidity. Either way, I'm going to do just that. Tape the 2 rows on all 6 sides (including lid and bottom FC under perlit) between the perlit layer and the lid. And then just continue to mist fan 3x a day, gonna run that routine till the start if next week. Hopefully 7 days will show signs of improvement.:) thanks a ton for the solid advice, btw dont worry about getting flamed. No ones reading this thread.

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#60 Kola

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 04:42 PM

Btw del, I have holes all around my FC including around the perlit, underneath the FC and in the lid. I'm working on covering the sides now and I already did the lid. Should I cover some of the bottom on the underside of perlit and a row around the perlit?

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