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Dunking before first flusb


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#1 MysticalMyco

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 02:16 AM

I have an absolutely beautiful monotub / bulk going right now with hundreds of pins and many thousands of knots. However were I grow at during the winter has extremely dry heat so the sub started to dry out.

I tried to inject sterile water all over and inside the sub. It definitely helped but not quite enough.

So I did a cold water soak and dunk for 2 hours. I was super gentle in the process. Do you this those hundred of pins will survive or will they abort and then I will have to roll with a better second flush.

Over the summer my first flushes we're epic. Now it seems with the dry heat of winter that my post dunk flushes are better mainly because I can maintain a better RH in my tubs after the mycelium mass/substrate is soaked.

I probably should of consulted you folks first before my pre-1st flush soak. I think it will be fine. I basically let it float & soak through the bottom. Then I flipped the sub for 15 minutes. I didn't loose a single shroom in that actual process minus a few aborts that were already loose.

Thanks,
MM

#2 Billcoz

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 07:14 AM

I get about 50/50 tha survive/abort when I dunk with tons of pins. I have the same issues where my grow is at, dry from the furnace.



#3 MysticalMyco

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 11:15 AM

The look better then I thought they would so far. They were definitely thirsty.
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#4 jkdeth

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 11:15 AM

Just make sure you have good FAE on them. And keep us updated!

#5 raymycoto

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 01:20 PM

I've become a fan, in my limited experience, with keeping the cake hydrated when pinning especially if you see signs of drying. You might notice retraction from the sides of the bin or the surface may seem dry in spite of adequate misting, for ex. When pins start to take off, after a few days, they will have to suck a lot of water as they are 90% water. And especially if there are tons of them, I want to keep them hydrated.  I hedge my bets a bit. I note the sides of the bin at the bottom and look for moisture. Then I take my misting bottle and squirt close to the side right at the plastic and let the water run to the bottom while I bend the plastic away from the sub to allow it to get down there instead of just pooling on the top. I do that on both long sides of the bin. Then sometimes twist the plastic bin to pull the sub away from the bottom to allow the water to get all over the bottom. I do a small test load of the water down the sides like maybe 10-20cc during a misting. Then next time I mist I look for whether the water is still there or absorbed. It's usually gone. So I do that again at each misting until it seems that it's pooling on the bottom. Sometimes I have to tip the bin and drain if I've overdone it and the water remains for a day without adding more although it seems well tolerated to just leave it there.

 

Seems to make sense that if you can totally soak the cake after harvest you should be able to just keep it incrementally hydrated in the week it's fruiting. But I've just started to try this.


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#6 CatsAndBats

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 01:26 PM

What's your fruiting chamber sitcha-a-tion?



#7 raymycoto

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 08:26 PM

Here is what I mean. This is a bit more liquid than I might usually see but this has been there all day so I'll not do any more of my top up watering down the sides.
 
20190306 184042
 
I really just posted that so I could show you the rest of the bin :smile: I hardly ever have a bin I want to show off, but this is a nice iso from a fruit (stipe tissue -> agar -> LC -> oats -> poo, straw) and pinned densly and quickly. It is my nicest looking bin thus far. LBM var. B+. I was trying an experiment to avoid side pins. I built most of the sub up in the middle to around 4" while the sides were at about 1". Kind of like a very low pyramid without the top.
 
20190306 183835
20190306 184011
20190306 183936

 


Edited by raymycoto, 06 March 2019 - 08:29 PM.

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#8 CatsAndBats

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 08:42 PM

Nice looking colony.



#9 MysticalMyco

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Posted 07 March 2019 - 12:37 PM

Yeah this 100% works. I lost very very few to aborts. I caught the dehydration soon enough, between the pin and closed veil state. Non were opened up yet.

The base of the stems got nice and and fat. Lots of mycelium fruit base mounds that clusters like to grow on. I'm going to try this more often. It worked out better then expected.

I'm just harvested the fruits and am going to re-dunk and expect and decent 2nd flush.

#10 jkdeth

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Posted 07 March 2019 - 12:47 PM

Interesting concept. And looks like it Worked.

#11 Billcoz

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Posted 07 March 2019 - 06:25 PM

 

Here is what I mean. This is a bit more liquid than I might usually see but this has been there all day so I'll not do any more of my top up watering down the sides.
 
 
 
I really just posted that so I could show you the rest of the bin :smile: I hardly ever have a bin I want to show off, but this is a nice iso from a fruit (stipe tissue -> agar -> LC -> oats -> poo, straw) and pinned densly and quickly. It is my nicest looking bin thus far. LBM var. B+. I was trying an experiment to avoid side pins. I built most of the sub up in the middle to around 4" while the sides were at about 1". Kind of like a very low pyramid without the top.
 
 
 
 

 

 

Hey Raymycoto, that is interesting to me, the 'flat topped pyramid' shape you made the sub, like there would be more surface area than a flat sub surface, so would there not be more area for pins to form? I might try something like this for the next batch. 



#12 raymycoto

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Posted 07 March 2019 - 08:58 PM

Billcoz, Yeah, let us know if you see any benefits.

 

Earlier shots during colonization. Can't tell much looking at the photo. I drew lines at the edges - you can sort of see the relative depth. Heck, you could probably put mounds or furrows into the middle or do something else creative to add surface area.

 

20190221 213548
20190221 213527
 
 

 


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#13 PJammer24

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 11:10 AM

I think if you reconsider your substrate composition and thickness you will have fewer issues with drying out. From the photo above, it looks really thin... I would increase substrate thickness and increase the amount of vermiculite you are using in your mix... Both increased thickness and increased vermiculite will significantly increase water retention...

 

It looks like you had good luck hydrating mid flush but I think this is risky practice... From my experience, only the smallest pins survive a dunk with regularity... If you have a properly constructed substrate, you can get two flushes without a dunk... In extremely dry conditions, I am sure you could get one if you optimize your mix.


Edited by PJammer24, 08 March 2019 - 11:10 AM.

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#14 Billcoz

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 11:48 AM

Billcoz, Yeah, let us know if you see any benefits.

 

Earlier shots during colonization. Can't tell much looking at the photo. I drew lines at the edges - you can sort of see the relative depth. Heck, you could probably put mounds or furrows into the middle or do something else creative to add surface area.

 

Thanks man, I have some spawned already, about to open them up for fruiting so for the next batch I spawn I will try something like this, seems like more surface area would be good, so long as the thickness is sufficient.



#15 RutgerHauer

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Posted 09 March 2019 - 09:40 AM

I have seen a report on someone experimenting with a zig-zag type of surface areas, little hills along the long side of the substrate. It did of course increase surface area, but didn't increase pinning or yield - if I remember correctly, it even made it that there were less mushrooms growing..




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