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drying and long-term storage protocol


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#161 TVCasualty

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 09:15 AM

With thick vacuum bags (Foodsaver brand, etc.) I only get leaks if the bag has any folds or creases that extend from the inside of the seal (the stuff under vacuum) to the outside (beyond the seal). They can look like they were sufficiently sealed but if there are any creases passing through the seal I hit it a couple more times with the sealer (without applying the vacuum). That usually prevents or stops most leaks.

 

That's only been a problem when sealing a filled bag that I didn't make large enough. When making a new bag from a roll, the first seal is almost always tight since the empty bag lies totally flat across the sealer. I usually only get leaks when I skimp on the bag size and don't make it long enough to allow the open ends of a filled bag to lay totally flat across the heating element. Hope all that made sense.

 

Incidentally, that's also why I prefer to use rigid containers (mason jars, Foodsaver brand canisters) to store stuff under vacuum. The large polycarbonate canisters can be pricey (I love the 4-quart size) but more than pay for themselves over time vs. using lots of bags (which ain't cheap either). They also don't crush your harvest to bits like bags do.



#162 pastyoureyes

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 04:19 PM

I like to save my jars for canning food.

#163 clumsy

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 04:43 PM

I posted a vacuum-based tek for preserving bud potency here. That same tek could be used wherever a reliable (550mm or less) vacuum storage system is desired.



#164 Jinroh

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 08:32 PM

With thick vacuum bags (Foodsaver brand, etc.) I only get leaks if the bag has any folds or creases that extend from the inside of the seal (the stuff under vacuum) to the outside (beyond the seal). They can look like they were sufficiently sealed but if there are any creases passing through the seal I hit it a couple more times with the sealer (without applying the vacuum). That usually prevents or stops most leaks.

 

That's only been a problem when sealing a filled bag that I didn't make large enough. When making a new bag from a roll, the first seal is almost always tight since the empty bag lies totally flat across the sealer. I usually only get leaks when I skimp on the bag size and don't make it long enough to allow the open ends of a filled bag to lay totally flat across the heating element. Hope all that made sense.

 

Incidentally, that's also why I prefer to use rigid containers (mason jars, Foodsaver brand canisters) to store stuff under vacuum. The large polycarbonate canisters can be pricey (I love the 4-quart size) but more than pay for themselves over time vs. using lots of bags (which ain't cheap either). They also don't crush your harvest to bits like bags do.

I often use the quart mason jars with the vacuum lid accessory. I need more jars though!



#165 Jinroh

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 08:34 PM

I posted a vacuum-based tek for preserving bud potency here. That same tek could be used wherever a reliable (550mm or less) vacuum storage system is desired.

I use that same jar adapter, I just use my machine instead of the hand pump.


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#166 shoomer

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Posted 21 October 2020 - 10:48 PM

Just thought I'd chime in on LTS (long term storage).

I just place the days haul on a sheet of aluminum foil mounted behind the home server (24/7/356) power supply and leave them there for a day where they get to 95% dry (winter) to about 75% dry (summer) as I'm very leery of drying over 120F.

I then use a homemade desiccant of baked epsom salts (450F/1hr.).
After powdering the baked MgSO4 sheet I put down a layer of paper towel, put boomers on top, and then then seal the container w/ an air-tight lid for another 24hr.
See here: https://mycotopia.ne...html?1061997827

After that they are crammed into a quart canning jar until full in 4-5 days and then I use a FoodSaver vac system w/ wide mouth canning jar adapter and canning lid to evacuate most of the atmosphere from the jar, add the screw on lid, and then place the jar in the freezer.

Cracker dry + vac + freezer might be a little overkill, but it covers all the bases of protection from UV(sunlight)/oxidation/heat and as a test I just powered up 2.5g out of a ~3+ y/o  jar and am already getting effects ~30min. after taking so I'm sure that potency has not diminished much if at all (what an epic understatement that turned out to be!).


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#167 ilikethings

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 04:31 PM

 

Totally! But I'm still confused about how the oxygen absorbor(s) help dry the fruits?  The goal is pull out the water content.  Forgive my ignorance.

Oxygen absorbers don't dry the fruits. I use them to keep oxygen away from already dried fruits. I only use damp-rid when I am storing batches of already dehydrated fruit bodies between flushes until I get enough to vacuum seal in one bag. I don't really grow that much fruit bodies, mainly I just colonize active grain and dry that.

 

your comment about just colonizing grain and saving, presumably, the myc, is what i first became intrigued by when starting this hobby (and I suspect will become a major study with all these wall street types trying to start psilo corps prior to legalization).  the idea of capturing actives from myc without fruiting is great. but back when i was first lurking here (~15 years ago), everyone said no way...no psilo in that myc.  but now, years later, i see folk discussing a particular non-cubie species that does contain psilo in the myc--notably when using grains (don't recall the species name).

 

Forgive me because I have seen, but not read the most recent threads on the topic, but I don't see how one could easily separate the myc from the grain.  My old original hypothesis (inspired by what were probably some "aspirational" teks--probably an old textfiles.com document [probably a source noone here under 30 has heard of.  lol]) was to grow the myc in liquid cultures and then dry the myc, grind, and store for use, i.e. bc it's easy to remove a myc cluster/colony from the liquid.
 


Edited by ilikethings, 24 October 2020 - 04:40 PM.

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#168 Jinroh

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 11:20 PM

 

 

Totally! But I'm still confused about how the oxygen absorbor(s) help dry the fruits?  The goal is pull out the water content.  Forgive my ignorance.

Oxygen absorbers don't dry the fruits. I use them to keep oxygen away from already dried fruits. I only use damp-rid when I am storing batches of already dehydrated fruit bodies between flushes until I get enough to vacuum seal in one bag. I don't really grow that much fruit bodies, mainly I just colonize active grain and dry that.

 

your comment about just colonizing grain and saving, presumably, the myc, is what i first became intrigued by when starting this hobby (and I suspect will become a major study with all these wall street types trying to start psilo corps prior to legalization).  the idea of capturing actives from myc without fruiting is great. but back when i was first lurking here (~15 years ago), everyone said no way...no psilo in that myc.  but now, years later, i see folk discussing a particular non-cubie species that does contain psilo in the myc--notably when using grains (don't recall the species name).

 

Forgive me because I have seen, but not read the most recent threads on the topic, but I don't see how one could easily separate the myc from the grain.  My old original hypothesis (inspired by what were probably some "aspirational" teks--probably an old textfiles.com document [probably a source noone here under 30 has heard of.  lol]) was to grow the myc in liquid cultures and then dry the myc, grind, and store for use, i.e. bc it's easy to remove a myc cluster/colony from the liquid.
 

 

The species is Semperviva or the full name is Psilocybe Hoogshagenii var. Convexa (P. Pemperviva). As you know, discoveries happen all the time and there are a lot of people testing different species of mycelium for actives, but to my limited knowledge, there are not many unless you count stone producers, but I am not sure if those "technically" qualify since they grow a fruit body in the substrate, just not a normal one.

 

The mycelium is not separated from the grain, the grain is dried along with the mycelium since the grain is impregnated with the actives as well.

I am not sure how active a colony would be that was grown in liquid. I am unsure if the correct nutrients and compounds could be added in liquid form in order for the mycelium to metabolize correctly. But that is just my thinking. I did try Semperviva on agar before with a very mild result. I assume the only reason I felt anything at all is that I add a lot of nutrients to my agar mix. It was hardly worth the effort though. I just tried it for "shits and giggles." It was a tea made with three four month old plates. It was a goopy mess.

 

Here is the link to the Myceliated grain TEK.

 

Below is what myceliated whole oats that were allowed to colonize with Semperviva for four months (and then dried) look like. 

Eight tablespoons of this grain extracted into tea is very potent for most people. The most I have done so far is 10 tablespoons, but I have an unusually high tolerance so I have to take a lot more than most people. All I can say is that every batch is different, and my experience indicates that a dosage by using tablespoons is unreliable. I took 8 TBS of one batch and had a strong experience, but nothing ground breaking. I tried 10 TBS of a of the same batch a couple weeks later assuming it was the same strength as the first but it was much much stronger. The actives must not be evenly distributed throughout the grain. Or it could have just been how my brain decided to react that day? Who knows? Things got a little sketchy for the first hour or so! I have more respect for it now.

 

4 month grain.jpg


Edited by Jinroh, 24 October 2020 - 11:59 PM.

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#169 TVCasualty

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Posted Yesterday, 10:35 AM


 

Forgive me because I have seen, but not read the most recent threads on the topic, but I don't see how one could easily separate the myc from the grain.  My old original hypothesis (inspired by what were probably some "aspirational" teks--probably an old textfiles.com document [probably a source noone here under 30 has heard of.  lol]) was to grow the myc in liquid cultures and then dry the myc, grind, and store for use, i.e. bc it's easy to remove a myc cluster/colony from the liquid.
 

 

 

That reminds me of this old thread, which might be of interest here and details the aspirational tek you are probably referring to: https://mycotopia.ne...cybin-capsules/


Edited by TVCasualty, Yesterday, 10:35 AM.

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#170 DickMoby

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Posted Yesterday, 04:30 PM

In one of my first grows I had a really bad harvest and decided to make a shake with water and a rye cake, was a cube redboy cake.

Wasn't a full trip but also definately active!

Tasted horribly bitter tho, couldn't do that again.

 

To the original topic.

I'm one of the vacuum guys too.

A cheap vac sealer costed (in germany) around 30$ with some bags and a full role.

The thing is far from high tech and loud when sucking the air out of the bags but it works great and I vac all cracker dried mushs and stones - (cut into very small pieces before dehydrating to make sure the coffe grinder survives powderizing the very hard dried sclerotia) and put them in the freezer.

Theres no better way to store them 


Edited by DickMoby, Yesterday, 04:31 PM.

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#171 Jinroh

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Posted Today, 11:02 AM

In one of my first grows I had a really bad harvest and decided to make a shake with water and a rye cake, was a cube redboy cake.

Wasn't a full trip but also definately active!

Tasted horribly bitter tho, couldn't do that again.

 

To the original topic.

I'm one of the vacuum guys too.

A cheap vac sealer costed (in germany) around 30$ with some bags and a full role.

The thing is far from high tech and loud when sucking the air out of the bags but it works great and I vac all cracker dried mushs and stones - (cut into very small pieces before dehydrating to make sure the coffe grinder survives powderizing the very hard dried sclerotia) and put them in the freezer.

Theres no better way to store them 

The water after simmering for 20 minutes with this grain is also very bitter. I would never drink it on its own. I have a really strong tea and spice mix that does a really good job of masking the flavor. I also use the extraction in making gummies, coffee, and hot chocolate.


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#172 DickMoby

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Posted Today, 01:55 PM

Off topic sry.

 

I'm curious about semperviva, not sure if I'll have the space for them this year but definately gonna give them a try early next year if not 2020.

 

The cake shake was in a time when I ate the mushs right off the rye cakes, not even fresh mushs go down my throat anymore lol

 

Extracting everything, powdered stones or mush honey in coffee as micros or a full extract for macros.






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