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Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread


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#201 CatsAndBats

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Posted 28 November 2019 - 11:10 PM

Update, I re-cased and literally got fruits the next day. One problem though, I saw the dreaded powdery growth and ditched two of the boxes. They both had dark green mold that started from the grain spawn deep in the culture.

 

Thing is I had written "cope hope (mold?)" on several of the cultures, if I remember correctly, this culture has been around for well over a year, so was probably a little weak.

 

Good news is that I have one viable box that is almost fully colonized with "Goliath" myc (not the old Hawaiian substrain). I grabbed some myc open air and put it to agar, we shall soon see if I get good results.

 

Love this thread y'all. 


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#202 jakeoncid419

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Posted 01 December 2019 - 04:00 AM

B4A7A9D0-1ED1-4C17-930D-C142BEF3F1D3.jpeg

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#203 Asura

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Posted 01 December 2019 - 12:38 PM

Nice tards, jake :D


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#204 jakeoncid419

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Posted 12 December 2019 - 05:14 PM

A431FF8A-C864-4E42-A62B-79700FD6C7A3.jpeg
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#205 jakeoncid419

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Posted 15 December 2019 - 08:05 AM

BDE959FB-99B0-422E-9C0E-8668B4D96305.jpeg 49B09CFD-538A-411D-A049-EC6FDC90DFAC.jpeg 2617DDA8-47DD-4689-8EDC-63A35B099A74.jpeg F370E19C-DE9F-4733-8950-EBB9BD5E9B6F.jpeg
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#206 Rac3k

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Posted 15 December 2019 - 10:53 AM

that second picture  :biggrin:  why that happens?



#207 RutgerHauer

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Posted 15 December 2019 - 10:56 AM

That graveyard is a bit sad really, the other ones look great. Love the species.



#208 jakeoncid419

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Posted 15 December 2019 - 11:15 AM

Mutant dwarf genetics... happens sometimes on blind sectors. Had it happened with pan cam before also
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#209 Asura

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Posted 15 December 2019 - 04:47 PM

Looks like Zifozonke MAY have found a new species of Panaeolus:

 

 

 
639660832-thumb_IMG-20191215-WA0001.jpg
639660796-thumb_IMG-20191215-WA0003.jpg
639660760-thumb_IMG-20191215-WA0005.jpg
639660728-thumb_IMG-20191215-WA0006.jpg
639660662-thumb_IMG-20191215-WA0008.jpg
639660583-thumb_IMG-20191215-WA0010.jpg
Habitat:
Found growing just over the dunes next to beach on a pile of decomposing leaves.

Gills:
Light brown/grey/black

Stem:
40-80mm long by 2-4mm thick.light grey

Cap:
15-30mm hemispheric/convex grey/greyish-lightening in colour when drying with tan in centre of cap.striated when wet

Spore print color:
busy printing...

Bruising:
Blue bruising around base of stem and where handled

Other information:
Strong mushroom scent.

So got a surprise find today.
These seem to be kind of Panaeolus species Im unfamiliar with.I came across these while going to the beach in a pile of decomposing leaves.Didnt have my phone so couldnt take pics of where I found them.Just picked them and immediately noticed the bluing around the bases of some of the stems and then extending to where I handled them.These are not Pan.cyan that Im famililar with.
What have I got here...??
 

 

 

These look beautiful. I think he might send me a print. It looks active, 

based on the bruising. But I don't even know how people figure out

whether you can eat a mushroom or not.


Edited by coorsmikey, 15 December 2019 - 05:59 PM.

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#210 ElrikEriksson

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Posted 16 December 2019 - 12:26 AM

Have any rabbits?

testbunny.jpg


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#211 Asura

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Posted 16 December 2019 - 08:07 AM

Poor rabbit



#212 MindHunter

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Posted 21 December 2019 - 08:11 AM

What's hapnin errrbody, got some pan cyan jam on agar, will be introducing to grain real soon, first attempt didnt produce but a few samples, AWESOME, pretty sure to much humidity and wrong sub played a huge part in my attempt. I have read that they require a little different conditions than the cubes, any suggestions on proper tek would be gratefully appreciated. Until the next time.....HOLLA



#213 Asura

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Posted 21 December 2019 - 11:59 AM

Pan cyans can't really have too much humidity. Substrate should be something like 70% straw 30% hpoo. Spawn to that, let it colonize then case with 50/50+.

They need high humidity but also lots of FAE which can be difficult to manage. Temps should be 77-81F.

 

I grow them a little bit differently and you can read about that here:

https://mycotopia.ne...lus-cyanescens/



#214 jakeoncid419

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Posted 23 December 2019 - 09:09 PM

Pan Jalisco
E299D4D9-FD2C-4C24-9B90-2CD0C8BB35C2.jpeg D556C328-2471-4386-AA9D-79EE24DBED6C.jpeg
1EAF3640-3EBA-43EA-AC91-C3786E13A1DF.jpeg
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#215 Elf Salvation

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Posted 26 December 2019 - 12:55 AM

Anyone knows whats causing this?
The only thing i changed is I added a small 7W led cold white to see if i get better pins and also coz of cloudy days
 
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That is verticillium. It infects mushroom fruits and it can spread.
The pan tropicals from spore works are infected.
They were potent and grew like mad but the verticillium spores get everywhere.
Maybe they could filtered from the pan spores or bleached out maybe
That shit will spread to other grows. The mushrooms from infected crops are edible but vert produces its spores from fruit bodies.
Maybe I can find the gggnarly pan tropicalis thread

#216 Elf Salvation

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Posted 26 December 2019 - 01:17 AM

https://mycotopia.ne...2?hl=tropicalis

Out of curiosity they kept growing the infected tropicals and it spread to most other tub grows as well. Some of the neglected vert infected cube tubs looked nasty. And any of the prints from tropicals are infected with vert spores.
They are potent and bruise near black. Maybe spores could be cleaned. All the pan tropicals I had were gnarly.
They grew like mad though they have verticillium.
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#217 CatsAndBats

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Posted 27 December 2019 - 11:39 AM

Update!

 

So I had one shoebox left. The colony kept consuming and overlaying the casings. First with straight coir, then it did the same with @peacefrog's 50/50 ( https://mycotopia.ne...g/#entry1274019 )

 

So I was like, "Fuck it, let's see you stubborn motherfuckers try and colonize sand" here are the results:

 

post-147940-0-50732200-1577463036.jpg

 

post-147940-0-96034900-1577463039.jpg

 

post-147940-0-60069800-1577463042.jpg

 

 

 

As y'all can see, they decided to fruit, finally.

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#218 SporeyMF

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Posted 27 December 2019 - 11:56 AM

Beautiful! I cant wait for the mailman

#219 Asura

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Posted 27 December 2019 - 06:22 PM

@CatsAndBats Hell yeah, dude. That is awesome. 


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#220 CatsAndBats

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Posted 27 December 2019 - 09:01 PM

Grabbed this tek off of shroomery. Had to delete a ton of the pics so that 'topia would accept my copy and paste. Clearly JOC is the author and should be commended for laying down such a clear start to finish tek for copes.

 

Original here:

 

https://www.shroomer...Number/25925194

 


 

 

 

 

Jakeoncid419

Follow me..... 04/09/19 02:46 PM     441415a1576554581.jpg

heart.gifJOC TEK Panaeolus cyanescens

 


JOC PAN TEK


I get tons of messages and questions in threads regarding my tek for pans. While most of this info is already scattered among my other posts I'm going to put it all together so I can just send ppl here. So if your here then HI lol.gif

I'm not going to go into much detail with the agar work as there are already tons of threads on them. I germ to malt\peptone (both will work although I find peptone more consistent) and then look for the fastest growing sections. You do not want to look for the thickest growth as often times the thick growths overlay later on, fast whispy growth is what you want.
If you are having issues with a culture on agar (stalling/failing to germ) you can get high tek with ur agar. as of now my favorite recipe for dealing with stubborn cultures is as follows
1000ml distilled water  (1000g)
32g dextrose (sugar)
16 g malt extract
16 g peptone
8g yeast
20 g agar
10 g potato starch

(Optional below)
.3 g ammonium citrate
.2 g thiamine
.2g magnesium phosphate
^ this is a high nute recipe you can also run a low nute by dropping the 32gs of dextrose and cutting all other nute amounts in half (or anywhere in between to suite your needs)



Once you have a good looking dish you have a few options. You can make LC and directly inoculate your sterile bulk let colonize break down in tray then allow a few days to re-consolodate then case. This works great I have no problems with it and I always do a few of them along side my G2B's, but I have noticed a slightly lower yield as the later flushes on my sterile trays are not as thick on average (this is only across about 20-30 trays so not a fact but it does seem to be a pattern) but were talking a 20% decrease at most not terrible.

I however mostly inoculate grain spawn with the dish themselves. I like to see the culture I am using, (I will use lc if my grain came out too dry tho).

For Grain I have used several different things:


  • Straight Rye berries works good pans seem to like it ok however they tend to take on excess moisture more so than other grains resulting in stalls.
  • Oats and Millet this works good sometimes although oats can be hit or miss some bags will just continually conatam and stall no matter what i do. even if the gourmets eat it up the pans often stall.
  • Rye and Millet  this is my Fav atm for pans. 25% rye 75% millet. cold soak for 24 hours in a bucket then pour that bucket into a strainer bucket and let it stain over night and some of the next day ( occasionally stir the grain around all the suface moisture is the same (pretty much dry). then load  pc and hit.

Once fully colonized the growth may look very fine and whispy or it might be a little thicker. Both are good but you don't want marshmallow looking myc because it will bruise in the jar (don't mistake it for contamination)



Bulk prep

For the pans I see a lot of recipes out there calling for 80% and up dung. This is completely unneeded and actually depending on the consistency of the dung your using would be too thick and cause your pans to go anaerobic. If your manure is perfectly aged and dried and is super light and fluffy you will have no problems with these ratios. However I often hear from people that they cannot get good aged manure and so far my recipe has worked with several diff quality manures.

My manure right now is definitely not fully aged as it is early spring and the manure piles at the feed store have not been able to fully "cook" yet. They say pans are dung loving, but I think that they are really just grass loving and the manure helps the fungi absorb the nutes from the grass. So, by cutting straw into my dung it appears to still have that affect when you cut grass (straw) into it. Everything I have read says people experienced diminished yields when they dropped below 60% dung, but i use only 35% and get a average of 2.75oz dry a tray (3 "flushes")
so clearly they are getting the nutes required.

Anyway here is the recipe:

  • 65% chopped straw (no need to pre hydrate)
  • 35% manure
  • 5% verm
  • 1/2 cup gypsum (optional)
  • Mix in water and bring to field capacity

The next step I believe is integral to getting all the way to 3 flushes with pasteurized bulk.

When you pasteurize something you are trying to knock back any contams while leaving the microbes alive. The microbes act as a immune system of sorts for the substrate. Now, these microbes start to die off at about 170F and you need to maintain a bulk CORE temp of 160-168F for at least a hour. So to do this without ever exceeding 170F it takes a few hours, which if your trying to do this on a stove top can be taxing and use a lot of energy.

So! I use a electric rice cooker/pressure cooker i load my bulk in and set to keep warm mode which holds a perfect 162F i set it for 12 hours and go to bed. The next day I take it out and set on shelf in Lab for the microbe count to Build. I prefer to use bulk that is at least 5 days old. The longer I wait the lower my chances of contams. I have noticed this very consistently for about a year now. Then I load the bulk and colonized spawn into the trays at a ratio of 1:4. I mix it all together then put a fine layer of bulk on top to cover up any visible mycelium on the surface. Then I put the lid on and incubate 7-10 days.

Casing

This step is simple but very important to get right. the recipe is easy


  • 50% peat moss
  • 50% verm

You need to then balance your ph to 7.5. I was using hydrated lime but now i use fulvic acid and I'm liking the results. I don't know if its just genetics or not yet as I've only run a few trays since i made the change but they are pinning on day 5 where before it was day 7 and it appears to make the pinset even thicker. I'll continue to monitor it.

When you apply the casing you want to be sure that you spread it as thin as possible! You will still see myc poking thru. Give it 12 hours to consolidate after casing, and place into FC:



JOC Martha aka Jartha

The aspect of this tek that really makes it a "JOC" tek is the cycling of your chambers humidity. Pans love evaporation taking place on the surface of the substrate. Not only does it induce pinning but it encourages the fruits to grow bigger fuller and thicker. To achieve this evaporation you need 2 things: FAE and heat.

Once you crank up the temp you will notice your sub will quickly dry out, and while you can hand mist several times a day to keep it going before the pins arrive u once they do if you mist them you will kill them. This means you must water by hand with a syringe and if your cranking your evap you will be hand watering all day lol.

So the way the jartha works is the fogger kicks on filling the tent. Then, while the fogger is still running, I have the fan (a bathroom fan down low than sucks air in thru the hepa filter mounted to the top of the tent) set to kick on so that it drags the fog down into the casings of the trays (the fogger is also up top feeding down). Then the fogger kicks off and the fan continues to run for 45 seconds  to 1min (I'm constantly adjusting times slightly as the room rh changes) pulling in a bunch of hot dry air into the tent down across the trays and leaving the tent a dry hot place. This is when most of your evaporation takes place.

The tent will sit like this for about 10 min then the fogger will kick back on and the re-hydration stage starts up and the cycle repeats. now I can crank my evap and it waters itself without frying my fruits.
447873091-thumb_6EE9CB03-3089-4083-AD89- 444023472-thumb_1D61D7AA-AE32-4688-8387- 390185119-thumb_CF20E699-0B5B-4524-8B11- 390185041-thumb_C0990206-28FD-452F-8E85- 241908034-thumb_21AE6FB0-9E73-4979-8A32-

265524710-thumb_818349D2-4996-4020-9C68- 047074461-thumb_1F31ACF4-4E10-4A59-88D2- 047061385-thumb_19AFDA67-D0BD-4D49-B924- 641095453-thumb_8679EBA1-2CAB-4C88-A3C4- 606252545-thumb_8BD2164D-35AB-46E6-BFEE- 589232383-thumb_8AAE5280-58E1-4F01-A9D8- 567859026-thumb_7272A7EE-AC0B-49C7-B488- 567856954-thumb_AD300E12-9C6A-448A-9426- 563166704-thumb_E128BFB4-5371-4460-9959- 505768293-thumb_E63BEDF5-879F-4A2E-AE03- 246235789-thumb_A30D76DD-9508-4905-9C92- 196138082-thumb_DBACC570-4E86-4039-9627- 138890635-thumb_A86A334D-FF3F-4CDC-8BAE- 138889705-thumb_9D096E0E-1DC1-4315-A1A3- 138874641-thumb_2FC4F5A2-8356-4BAA-A2C0-

Everything you need to build your Martha system is at Home Depot except for the repeat cycle timers you get those on Amazon.

Material List

  • Green house tent
  • Air innovations humidifier  ($40) 
  • Drip tray  $10
  • Sum hosing $10,
  • Bathroom fan $16
  • Honeywell fan hepa filter
  • Velcro
  • Duct tape (I use gorilla tape but ill call it DT)
  • Plastic wrap.
  • LED light strips multi spectrum is $50 the white $35
  • A plug to hardwire the bathroom fan to if it does not come with a plug (often don't)
  • You will probaly need sum extension cords and a powerstrip


Assembly Procedure


  • To start lay out a piece of plastic wrap and then set your tent on top.
  • Fold the plastic up around all four sides of then and seal with duct tape.
  • Cut the plastic wrap so it and drop down in front where the tent zipper door is, then use the adhesive Velcro to put it up and down as you need to access then tent. (This makes sure that when then fan kicks on most of your air is sucked in thru the filter, and it also keeps your fog from escaping.)
  • Next you need to attach the bathroom fan to the bottom of the tent so its pulling air. Trace it, cut a square, duct tape it in place.
  • Then trace and cut the hepa filter in up top and seal with DT.
  • Then lift the entire jartha up and set it on the drip tray. (This just protects your floors and helps keep bugs out.)
  • Then take the strip lights and attach them to the bottoms of the shelves and the top of tent.
  • Then cut your hosing so it comes up out of your humidifier and shoots down into the top of the tent ( i have the o2 condesner hosed into the fogger system but thats extra).


          

Aside: Kratom loves the enviroment in the Jartha and clones do well on the bottom shelf that i dont use anyway because its so close to the ground.





JOC Pano tub system


This tek fallows the same concept as the martha except the system is connected to mono tubs. This design works incredibly, so much so that I stopped using it because I just did not need that much lol.gif . my wife and a few other family members use it as medicine.

It can handle up to 6 116 qt tubs. I have 2 stacks of 3 tubs on either side of a center tub that has been fitted with a fogger and bathroom fan (blowing in). The fogger is so you can adjust the humidity of your dry air coming in because with these if your not careful you will fry your fruits. (I think its because it is a smaller, even more controlled system, than the jartha.)

This is your air handling system. Off of this center tub are 3 hoses on either side which lead into high side of your tubs. Use a 2.5 gallon water jug and attach it to the humidifier (same model as the jartha). Off of it i have 6 hoses leading into each tub right next to the air line.

I do have holes cut down low on the mono tubs but instead of polyfill i use vent filters. This is just so the air and fog can go down into the surface and out the sides. I also had my oxygen condenser feeding my fogger lines, but other than that it runs the same as the jartha.

The cycle timers are set to do the same cycling within the tubs now not all these pictures are of the final design. It took lots of prototypes and modding mistakes and do overs to get it just right but the description above is def the best version. I would take more pictures of it but it is disassembled atm.

      

010818466-thumb_468CD3F9-A52E-4659-8532- 010817979-thumb_689CF6B4-D9EC-46E0-8E7D- 999823430-thumb_96448D02-CE6E-48E6-AE0C- 982811481-thumb_0432E4FB-C17D-4D3C-BAF7- 974342483-thumb_31020DA4-A83F-4377-A934- 955853631-thumb_FA15D824-EAFD-4372-930D- 937328051-thumb_33A02357-6C01-4BF0-A510-
 


Edited by CatsAndBats, 27 December 2019 - 09:03 PM.

  • Samwise, bezevo and makinbones69 like this




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