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Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread


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#261 RutgerHauer

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 03:20 AM

 

That's why I do a soak starting with hot water, they won't sprout then.

 

Au contraire mon frère, all of my other soaks I use boiling water, and I've had entire 5 gallon buckets of oats sprout after their soak.

 

I'm thinking of adding some pickling lime to help dissolve the germ a little. Idk, just playing around. :biggrin:

 

 

Really? Maybe your temperature drops fairly quick and starting out with hot water doesn't make a big difference.

 

I don't use oats, and no boiling water. I have not much experience to compare it with, but the first time recently I did a cold water soak some of the rye grains sprouted in the first few days after inoculation. Since then I have been soaking in 140F water, and replacing that once more with 140F water when it has cooled down a bit. I close off the PC I soak in to keep temperatures up considerably throughout the day. It'll stay warm for half a day that way. Absolutely no sprouted rye anymore. Could be just me thinking that it does anything, but I like to believe that it does help. I think using warm water will help germinate endospores better as well, before sterilizing them.


Edited by RutgerHauer, 26 January 2020 - 06:43 AM.

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#262 RutgerHauer

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 03:27 AM

Can't quote your post to get your pics on this next page jakeoncid419, but that is a magnificent flush!


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#263 SporeyMF

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 03:29 AM

attachicon.gif16C976C4-397E-4C4F-B749-9CDA980E7DC0.jpegattachicon.gif431DC780-540F-4BAF-BE24-D3CDBA2E7A75.jpeg


Beautiful! I have my first pans colonizing in whole oats. I’m hoping it all works out. I’m also starting my first two monotubs in a few days it looks like. Brown rice in those jars.
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#264 Nurko65

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 09:40 PM

@Nurko65, it seems like you are doing everything right!  Your plates look good and it seems like your diy flow hood is clean because you tested it by leaving open a clean plate.  Are your grainjars sealing properly?  What kind of LC jars are you using?  Are you sure the injection ports are all sealed?  I once had a LC jar where the silicone had lifted up ever so slightly but it was not noticeable.  What kind of ports do you have?

Thanks for your assistance again orangutan. Perhaps I was not so clear but my current procedure is to use a good dish to make an LC and inoculate grain spawn jars with the same material. It is these spawn jars that inevitable develop a sweet fermentation smell. I would generally get vigorous growth at the top of the jar and then it stops. If I shake these jars, the colonizing stops all together. I have been through three spore syringes from the same supplier and get the same results. Can you or anyone else give me some idea where the bacteria that causes this is coming from? What can I improve on? Is it possible that the bacteria is riding the mycelium even though it looks fine. I am attaching better pictures of my typical plates. 

I am hesitant on going forward if I do not do something different.

Pan cyans 12620.jpg



#265 orangutan

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Posted 26 January 2020 - 09:49 PM

Try sterilizing some jars as you usually do. Inoculate some with sterile water, inoculate some with your LC, and leave some completely alone. Then see what happens. This might reveal some answers

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#266 jakeoncid419

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 02:09 AM

My guess is you simply have too much moisture on ur grain. Pans are not as forgiving as cubes on grain hydration, just a lil to much and you will get marshmallows

#267 orangutan

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Posted 27 January 2020 - 10:43 PM

jake, what are marshmallows and why are they bad?  Sorry for my ignorance.  I grew pans once and I did notice some blobs of tissue in the sub.


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#268 jakeoncid419

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Posted 29 January 2020 - 11:50 AM

So with pans grain hydration has a much smaller window slight overhydration leads to bacterial problems when confronted with a low bacterial load pan myc fluffs up the grain becomes impossible to shake apart and your yield will suffer dramatically. Some genetics will “overlay” but that’s a separate issue. Good pan myc will easily shake apart

Here are sum pan bisporus
EC55F333-1802-49D7-BC9A-F7570F48FD5E.jpeg 7E385B9E-4102-445A-9E4F-ADDF1C5AF186.jpeg A59E1C99-FD44-4658-84B7-14FEB71FE8D2.jpeg
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#269 orangutan

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Posted 29 January 2020 - 12:30 PM

What is a good Pan species or strain that you would recommend for a beginner? I'm trying to get my fruiting conditions dialed but I need something consistent to test it against.

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#270 ItBeBasidia

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Posted 29 January 2020 - 12:34 PM

Hey Jake,

I've noticed the form on those pan cyan senguio are very unique and different then other pan cyans. How is the potency and experience compared to the others?
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#271 jakeoncid419

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Posted 29 January 2020 - 12:37 PM

Honestly I’ve been finding that the wild strains that I receive perform much better than domesticated strains bought through vendors however with work I can bring them up to where I want also. Pan Australia is often quite aggressive. Avoid pan trop bisp cam for now

#272 jakeoncid419

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Posted 29 January 2020 - 12:57 PM

Yes I think they may actually be a pan sub species related to bisp or trop, I’ll have pcr in just a few days and I’ll have so
E answers. They are as “potent” as other pan cyans but do have their own unique vibe.
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#273 Jrotten

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Posted 02 February 2020 - 11:05 PM

This is a monster thread so hopefully it’s ok to just jump right in. I have had some half hearted attempts at pans before and never gotten anything but contains in the end. I’m trying again with Sandoze. I don’t know that I can get anything perfect, but I think I have a shot. Hoping for some input so maybe if there is something glaring I can address it before I get there:

I started with a MS syringe from a vendor. I prepped WBS with gypsum and added about an inch on top of a chopped straw field aged Cpoo mixture. Jars are just a bit over half full. Nothing is packed too tight. I have germination in about 3 days incubating between 83-85 degrees. Some of the myc has grabbed the straw/cpoo that is closest to the grain so I feel ok about that. SHOULD I SHAKE?

The plan is to get some small foil brownie trays and dump each jar into it’s own tray to get about 1” depth. I figured I would let that recover for a day or two and then case with a simple 60/40 verm/coir around 1/4” and go straight to FC. DOES THAT SOUND OK OR TOO ROUGH ON THE MYC?

FC is an automated greenhouse of sorts I built. Temperature can be held pretty reliably between 74-78*. The less I open it the higher and steadier the temperature stays. Any warmer will take a rethink. WILL THOSE TEMPERATURES WORK?

Humidity is pretty easy to handle, but I have a digital and analog hygrometer and the analog generally reads 90-95 even though I fog it heavy enough that you can’t see clearly to the back of it when it’s open. The digital will read 99 at those points. IS 90% RH low enough? IS IT OK TO FOG IT OUT COMPETELY?

I just moved away from the digital humidity controller operating everything and just switched to interval timers. What I am doing right this second as my initial attempt is this: I have an airtight box with a vacuum hepa filter, that has a small computer squirrel cage style fan inside and a length of hose pushing the filtered air into a sealed 5 gallon bucket. Inside the bucket is a 5 disc pond fogger and an aquarium heater that holds temperature at 78*. The fan can move 18cf/m but it is probably running a little less. A hose then connects the bucket to the FC. The FC is about 12cf. There are two 120mm waterproof fans INSIDE the FC. The fans and fogger are all on separate timers so the external fan kicks on and runs for 3 minutes pumping in filtered fresh air which picks up some warmth and moisture from the bucket. After two minutes the fogger kicks on and instantly turns the fresh air into a stream of dense fog and runs for one minute. It completely fogs the FC but there is minimal condensation because the whole thing is insulated well. The internal fans kick on with the fresh air and run through the whole cycle and runs 1 minute longer to completely mix the now humidified air in the FC.

That should be enough for a full air exchange and then some each cycle. The cycle repeats 4x every hour. My thinking is that this will provide more than enough FAE, humidity will stay very high, but it is also a lot of air disturbance to allow surface evaporation. HOW MUCH EVAPORATION DO THESE NEED? SHOULD I WORRY ABOUT MISTING CASINGS MAYBE ONCE A DAY UNTIL I SEE PINS?

I have a flowhood but it is packed up because my house is about to have to have a lot of work done on it and half my things are packed up so for now MS is really preferred. I probably won’t have the time to try anything else anytime soon because of the work on the house.

That’s it. Are there any obvious failures? Anything you’d suggest dialing up or down or anything I really need to rethink before I move forward? I have some cubes I’m about to put in the FC to monitor the casing layers and what not to see how they dry etc. Thank y’all, and it’s good to be back here after a long time away from the hobby.

**edited for tons of typos**

Edited by Jrotten, 02 February 2020 - 11:14 PM.


#274 jakeoncid419

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Posted 05 February 2020 - 07:15 PM

Jrotten
https://mycotopia.ne...58-joc-pan-tek/
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#275 Jrotten

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Posted 06 February 2020 - 01:57 PM

Jrotten
https://mycotopia.ne...58-joc-pan-tek/

I actually tried to modify my system a bit to mimic what you did there. There are a few technical limitations like the fact it’s 40 degrees where the FC is. I can’t just pull warm dry air in. Right now my casing layers are drying over about a 24 hour period but not to the point of significantly becoming lighter in color. These are still cubes so I’m misting pretty heavy at account for the dryness of the ambient air being drawn in.

Pan jars I think will be colonized in 3-4 days. I know the casing layer needs to be thinner, but how dry do you let yours get?

#276 jakeoncid419

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Posted 16 February 2020 - 12:12 PM

-itbebasidia, your right after closer micro inspection I noticed the absence of metuloid cystidia, so the senguio is actually pan cints
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#277 Jrotten

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Posted 24 February 2020 - 01:48 PM

Pretty sure my own Cambo sandoz is knotting and forming pins! It looks like I have a touch of bruising also. Had a weird weather system come through over night with incredibly high RH that took my FC on a bit of a water ride. Nothing major but I had some glistening on the surface. I had dropped my fogging down to create a bit more evaporation so either slightly drier or slightly wetter conditions gave me some blue spots. I dabbed with a Q-tip and got no color and they haven’t spread in 12 hours so I’m thinking/hoping it’s just a tad bit of bruising. Pans are definitely not boring! Lol

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Edited by Jrotten, 24 February 2020 - 03:36 PM.

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#278 orangutan

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Posted 24 February 2020 - 02:42 PM

Looks good from over here!!

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#279 jakeoncid419

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Posted 24 February 2020 - 10:32 PM

Pan bisp
C5D87930-8EEF-4A70-9E7F-8D6ABDCFDFD0.jpeg F100BC4E-E326-4CAF-BBA8-023D97D9CCD5.jpeg 198545E6-2363-4812-8E10-17D2D95A9B57.jpeg 96EE9491-BCD3-47D3-A5DB-D9F66782575D.jpeg A51DF42D-3686-4B9C-8E2B-87D4637C7AD8.jpeg
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#280 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 24 February 2020 - 10:52 PM

Wowzers!!! Love the little one piggybacking on the bigger!
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