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JOC PAN TEK


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#1 jakeoncid419

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 01:17 PM

Ok y’all I promised I put my tek over here so let’s see how hard it is to transfer.
I'm not going to go into much detail with the agar work as there are already tons of threads on them. I germ to malt\peptone (both will work although I find peptone more consistent) and then look for the fastest growing sections. You do not want to look for the thickest growth as often times the thick growths overlay later on, fast whispy growth is what you want.
If you are having issues with a culture on agar (stalling/failing to germ) you can get high tek with ur agar. as of now my favorite recipe for dealing with stubborn cultures is as follows
1000ml distilled water (1000g)
32g dextrose (sugar)
16 g malt extract
16 g peptone
8g yeast
20 g agar
10 g potato starch

(Optional below)
.3 g ammonium citrate
.2 g thiamine
.2g magnesium phosphate
^ this is a high nute recipe you can also run a low nute by dropping the 32gs of dextrose and cutting all other nute amounts in half (or anywhere in between to suite your needs)
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Once you have a good looking dish you have a few options. You can make LC and directly inoculate your sterile bulk let colonize break down in tray then allow a few days to re-consolodate then case. This works great I have no problems with it and I always do a few of them along side my G2B's, but I have noticed a slightly lower yield as the later flushes on my sterile trays are not as thick on average (this is only across about 20-30 trays so not a fact but it does seem to be a pattern) but were talking a 20% decrease at most not terrible.

I however mostly inoculate grain spawn with the dish themselves. I like to see the culture I am using, (I will use lc if my grain came out too dry tho).

For Grain I have used several different things:
Straight Rye berries works good pans seem to like it ok however they tend to take on excess moisture more so than other grains resulting in stalls.
Oats and Millet this works good sometimes although oats can be hit or miss some bags will just continually conatam and stall no matter what i do. even if the gourmets eat it up the pans often stall.
Rye and Millet this is my Fav atm for pans. 25% rye 75% millet. cold soak for 24 hours in a bucket then pour that bucket into a strainer bucket and let it stain over night and some of the next day ( occasionally stir the grain around all the suface moisture is the same (pretty much dry). then load pc and hit.

Once fully colonized the growth may look very fine and whispy or it might be a little thicker. Both are good but you don't want marshmallow looking myc because it will bruise in the jar (don't mistake it for contamination) AE825511-9FF7-4392-87AD-3B9D20224089.jpeg

Bulk prep


For the pans I see a lot of recipes out there calling for 80% and up dung. This is completely unneeded and actually depending on the consistency of the dung your using would be too thick and cause your pans to go anaerobic. If your manure is perfectly aged and dried and is super light and fluffy you will have no problems with these ratios. However I often hear from people that they cannot get good aged manure and so far my recipe has worked with several diff quality manures.

My manure right now is definitely not fully aged as it is early spring and the manure piles at the feed store have not been able to fully "cook" yet. They say pans are dung loving, but I think that they are really just grass loving and the manure helps the fungi absorb the nutes from the grass. So, by cutting straw into my dung it appears to still have that affect when you cut grass (straw) into it. Everything I have read says people experienced diminished yields when they dropped below 60% dung, but i use only 35% and get a average of 2.75oz dry a tray (3 "flushes")
so clearly they are getting the nutes required.

Anyway here is the recipe:
65% chopped straw (no need to pre hydrate)
35% manure
5% verm
1/2 cup gypsum (optional)
Mix in water and bring to field capacity

The next step I believe is integral to getting all the way to 3 flushes with pasteurized bulk.

When you pasteurize something you are trying to knock back any contams while leaving the microbes alive. The microbes act as a immune system of sorts for the substrate. Now, these microbes start to die off at about 170F and you need to maintain a bulk CORE temp of 160-168F for at least a hour. So to do this without ever exceeding 170F it takes a few hours, which if your trying to do this on a stove top can be taxing and use a lot of energy.

So! I use a electric rice cooker/pressure cooker i load my bulk in and set to keep warm mode which holds a perfect 162F i set it for 12 hours and go to bed. The next day I take it out and set on shelf in Lab for the microbe count to Build. I prefer to use bulk that is at least 5 days old. The longer I wait the lower my chances of contams. I have noticed this very consistently for about a year now. Then I load the bulk and colonized spawn into the trays at a ratio of 1:4. I mix it all together then put a fine layer of bulk on top to cover up any visible mycelium on the surface. Then I put the lid on and incubate 7-10 days.

Casing


This step is simple but very important to get right. the recipe is easy
50% peat moss
50% verm

You need to then balance your ph to 7.5. I was using hydrated lime but now i use fulvic acid and I'm liking the results. I don't know if its just genetics or not yet as I've only run a few trays since i made the change but they are pinning on day 5 where before it was day 7 and it appears to make the pinset even thicker. I'll continue to monitor it.

When you apply the casing you want to be sure that you spread it as thin as possible! You will still see myc poking thru. Give it 12 hours to consolidate after casing, and place into FC:
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JOC Martha aka Jartha


The aspect of this tek that really makes it a "JOC" tek is the cycling of your chambers humidity. Pans love evaporation taking place on the surface of the substrate. Not only does it induce pinning but it encourages the fruits to grow bigger fuller and thicker. To achieve this evaporation you need 2 things: FAE and heat.

Once you crank up the temp you will notice your sub will quickly dry out, and while you can hand mist several times a day to keep it going before the pins arrive u once they do if you mist them you will kill them. This means you must water by hand with a syringe and if your cranking your evap you will be hand watering all day lol.

So the way the jartha works is the fogger kicks on filling the tent. Then, while the fogger is still running, I have the fan (a bathroom fan down low than sucks air in thru the hepa filter mounted to the top of the tent) set to kick on so that it drags the fog down into the casings of the trays (the fogger is also up top feeding down). Then the fogger kicks off and the fan continues to run for 45 seconds to 1min (I'm constantly adjusting times slightly as the room rh changes) pulling in a bunch of hot dry air into the tent down across the trays and leaving the tent a dry hot place. This is when most of your evaporation takes place.

The tent will sit like this for about 10 min then the fogger will kick back on and the re-hydration stage starts up and the cycle repeats. now I can crank my evap and it waters itself without frying my fruits.
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Everything you need to build your Martha system is at Home Depot except for the repeat cycle timers you get those on Amazon.

Material List
Green house tent
Air innovations humidifier ($40)
Drip tray $10
Sum hosing $10,
Bathroom fan $16
Honeywell fan hepa filter
Velcro
Duct tape (I use gorilla tape but ill call it DT)
Plastic wrap.
LED light strips multi spectrum is $50 the white $35
A plug to hardwire the bathroom fan to if it does not come with a plug (often don't)
You will probaly need sum extension cords and a powerstrip


Assembly Procedure
To start lay out a piece of plastic wrap and then set your tent on top.
Fold the plastic up around all four sides of then and seal with duct tape.
Cut the plastic wrap so it and drop down in front where the tent zipper door is, then use the adhesive Velcro to put it up and down as you need to access then tent. (This makes sure that when then fan kicks on most of your air is sucked in thru the filter, and it also keeps your fog from escaping.)
Next you need to attach the bathroom fan to the bottom of the tent so its pulling air. Trace it, cut a square, duct tape it in place.
Then trace and cut the hepa filter in up top and seal with DT.
Then lift the entire jartha up and set it on the drip tray. (This just protects your floors and helps keep bugs out.)
Then take the strip lights and attach them to the bottoms of the shelves and the top of tent.
Then cut your hosing so it comes up out of your humidifier and shoots down into the top of the tent ( i have the o2 condesner hosed into the fogger system but thats extra).
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JOC Pano tub system



This tek fallows the same concept as the martha except the system is connected to mono tubs. This design works incredibly, so much so that I stopped using it because I just did not need that much :lol: . my wife and a few other family members use it as medicine.

It can handle up to 6 116 qt tubs. I have 2 stacks of 3 tubs on either side of a center tub that has been fitted with a fogger and bathroom fan (blowing in). The fogger is so you can adjust the humidity of your dry air coming in because with these if your not careful you will fry your fruits. (I think its because it is a smaller, even more controlled system, than the jartha.)

This is your air handling system. Off of this center tub are 3 hoses on either side which lead into high side of your tubs. Use a 2.5 gallon water jug and attach it to the humidifier (same model as the jartha). Off of it i have 6 hoses leading into each tub right next to the air line.

I do have holes cut down low on the mono tubs but instead of polyfill i use vent filters. This is just so the air and fog can go down into the surface and out the sides. I also had my oxygen condenser feeding my fogger lines, but other than that it runs the same as the jartha.

The cycle timers are set to do the same cycling within the tubs now not all these pictures are of the final design. It took lots of prototypes and modding mistakes and do overs to get it just right but the description above is def
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#2 Mush2Learn

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 02:19 PM

An inspiration. Once I get cubes producing nice canopies I'm gonna give some more challenging mushies a go!
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#3 ItBeBasidia

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 04:22 PM

My good man!

On my way to home depot
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#4 Thirdeyeplants

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 11:33 PM

Great write up, and some beautiful photos. You have quite the MacGyver contraption going there (I mean that as a great compliment). One day when I graduate from cakes I dream of playing with these exotics, but I am limited to my 2×2 closet at the moment...
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#5 Rac3k

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Posted 13 August 2019 - 05:19 AM

Thanks for this tek Jake! I gonna build a martha soon, is hepa filter really necessary? can i replace it with polyfill sheets ?


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#6 jakeoncid419

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Posted 13 August 2019 - 09:46 AM

I’m not sure how much the hepa does as I’ve never tried without one. I go a little over the top with air filtration but my late onset contams are almost non existent. Try without see how it does. It will def still work I’m sure
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#7 Foster

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 04:09 PM

Very nice setup and write up! 

Your fruiting chambers are a bit high tech but easy to understand.

And actually reproduceable in a smaller arrangement utilizing a reptile fogger head, water container for it to reside, and an aquarium pump pushing the fog and similar tubing and condenser. Just downsized for a smaller tub. That's if I understand the setup correctly.

I have actually used exactly what I described in attempt to build a cloning/rooting fogger for plant cuttings. It wasn't quite enough on its own, I needed a bigger fogger head.

 

Your "Fogger" is the humidifier plus the additional components/condenser, tubing etc?  As a whole?

 

Now your base from grain prep to pasteurization is THE basics and something every one should pay attention to and use.

 

Great descriptions of the "how's and why's" you perform these steps. Many get by without the pre-soak. Well.. I get rye from 60lb bags at the feed store, Its absolutely needed or it will fail every time due to those encrusted endospores. It also ensure you are getting the proper hydration. No burst kernels or overly wet grain from added water to jars during pc'ing.

 

So many dont pre-soak grain or understand what pasteurization is attempting to achieve.. Well there it is, simply put and spot on.

 

A couple questions.

You can make LC and directly inoculate your sterile bulk let colonize break down in tray then allow a few days to re-consolodate then case

 

 

You are going straight from LC to your bulk prep mix, no grain?   The word "sterile" in there is throwing me off a bit.  But I'd love to go straight from LC to my "not quite bulk"  fully pasteurized mix.!     Have you done this with MS LC? or Do you only use the Agar to LC?

Not as worried about yield as I can only take so much myself. Nice flushes for the size of my trays and printable quantity.. yeah, That appeals to me.

 

The aspect of this tek that really makes it a "JOC" tek is the cycling of your chambers humidity. Pans love evaporation taking place on the surface of the substrate. Not only does it induce pinning but it encourages the fruits to grow bigger fuller and thicker. To achieve this evaporation you need 2 things: FAE and heat.

 

 

I might be missing it but what is the heat source or how do you "crank up the heat"? Just room temps?

 

Again thanks for sharing your insights , techniques and making this a easy to follow guide to success.    peace



#8 jakeoncid419

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Posted 14 August 2019 - 05:36 PM

Yes the room temp I have a heater by then that keeps tent temps up
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