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Air Exchange Rig


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#1 DIETMARKS

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 07:27 PM

Hi everyone--

 

I don’t have time to do all the required air exchanges for my fruiting tub, so I worked out an automatic ventilation rig that I’m pretty happy with, and thought that I would share it with all of you.

 

What you see, from left to right, is a small Dirt Devil HEPA filter, taped to a 3” to 4” PVC pipe reducer, a 4” duct booster fan, a short-cycle digital timer from Amazon, a length of 4” ducting, taped to a 3” adhesive toilet seal.  I attached the fan to a piece of wood with 4” tension clamps, and put anti-vibration pads on the bottom of the piece of wood. 

 

I cut a hole in the tub + stuck on the toilet seal + piped in the reptile fogger + put the lid on = happy cakes.  Timer works perfectly, blowing HEPA-filtered air into the tub for two minutes out of every ten, total cost about $60.

IMG-2297.JPG   


Edited by DIETMARKS, 19 September 2019 - 07:29 PM.

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#2 SacredMountain

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 09:37 PM

What size tote? Perlite or substrate in the base?

Will be interested to see what your end results are.



#3 DIETMARKS

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 04:33 PM

20 gal. tote with about 2" perlite.  Here are two images of the rig in action:

 

IMG 2298
IMG 2299

 


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#4 TVCasualty

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Posted 20 September 2019 - 09:25 PM

Nice! That's the DIY attitude that made the online mushroom community what it is today (a real trip!).

 

 

 

You can take the output of your blower setup and the humidifier and run them to a few PVC tees and from there to multiple tubs. I imagine that that blower puts out a lot more air per second than one tub needs, and same goes for the humidifier. Use that surplus!

 

I built a similar setup awhile back with similar-sized components and it kept ...let's just say more than a couple but fewer than 20 tubs going perfectly. It probably could have handled as many as 36 (just run longer cycles).

 

And FWIW, you can (and IMO should) take the light out of the bin. It doesn't need to be that close (plus electricity and water are dicey together). The mycelium just needs enough light to "see" that there is some light to give the mushrooms a direction to grow in.

 

Also, blue LEDs (they do not have to be the more-expensive actinic-rated aquarium lights, just blue) are way better than white in terms of how cool mushrooms are to look at in blue light, contamination shows up sooner under blue light, blue light has mild anti-microbial properties*, and it's the blue parts of the spectrum that the fungi is responding to anyway so most of the light of a white bulb is wasted.

 

 

*It's the invisible "bleeding" of the bulb's light into the UV part of the spectrum that apparently causes this (any LED will throw light at frequencies slightly higher and lower than its specified frequency), so don't stare at blue LED light for a long time, and especially not directly at the bulb. LEDs are actually intended to illuminate objects and ideally should not be looked at directly.


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#5 ilikethings

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Posted 16 October 2019 - 08:53 PM

Good thread.  That said, before I dump ~$110 on 4 tubs, I thought it prudent to throw out a couple questions.  My original plan was to buy 4 x 41qt black weathertight tubs by IRIS and get clear lids (https://www.irisusai...x-41-2-qt-ucb-l).  My thought was that this would induce the fruits to grow up as opposed to all over the place like worms.   Sadly, the only local store with them wont let me mix clear lids with black bins and I dont want to pay an extra $85 for 4 clear lids (bc id have to buy 8 sets of bins with lids).  So then I though I'd get the black bins with black lids and then modify them and place clear plexiglass in center area of lids but that is a lot of money and work too.  So now to my current plan: buy four of these (https://www.irisusainc.com/weathertight-storage-box-62-8-qt-ucb-ld) in black with black lids and place blue lights inside to direct the growth up.  

 

It should be noted that I will also be setting up automated FAE system with these bins.  I plan to go with a suction setup instead of a push/blower setup such that the fan is pulling air into the bins and exhausting downstream of the fan box.  This will keep the bins sealed tight against their seals and should have fewer flow control issues re necking down the 2in tubing I plan to use.  I was just curious if anyone has any thoughts on this setup before I move forward.  The main question is re black bins with proper clear lids versus black bins with black lids and then using blue lights internally in the bins.  Alternatively, Id go with the black bins/black lids and mod the lids by cutting centers out and replacing with clear plexi as this would eliminate need for other electric lights--albeit I will not get the perceived advantage of the blue light exclusive to the 320 - 400nanometer wavelength per Stamets.



#6 Nicked

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Posted 17 October 2019 - 01:37 AM

Good thread. That said, before I dump ~$110 on 4 tubs, I thought it prudent to throw out a couple questions. My original plan was to buy 4 x 41qt black weathertight tubs by IRIS and get clear lids (https://www.irisusai...x-41-2-qt-ucb-l). My thought was that this would induce the fruits to grow up as opposed to all over the place like worms. Sadly, the only local store with them wont let me mix clear lids with black bins and I dont want to pay an extra $85 for 4 clear lids (bc id have to buy 8 sets of bins with lids). So then I though I'd get the black bins with black lids and then modify them and place clear plexiglass in center area of lids but that is a lot of money and work too. So now to my current plan: buy four of these (https://www.irisusai...-62-8-qt-ucb-ld) in black with black lids and place blue lights inside to direct the growth up.

It should be noted that I will also be setting up automated FAE system with these bins. I plan to go with a suction setup instead of a push/blower setup such that the fan is pulling air into the bins and exhausting downstream of the fan box. This will keep the bins sealed tight against their seals and should have fewer flow control issues re necking down the 2in tubing I plan to use. I was just curious if anyone has any thoughts on this setup before I move forward. The main question is re black bins with proper clear lids versus black bins with black lids and then using blue lights internally in the bins. Alternatively, Id go with the black bins/black lids and mod the lids by cutting centers out and replacing with clear plexi as this would eliminate need for other electric lights--albeit I will not get the perceived advantage of the blue light exclusive to the 320 - 400nanometer wavelength per Stamets.

What about buying the clear ones and spray painting the tubs black....

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
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#7 ilikethings

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Posted 18 October 2019 - 03:51 PM

@Nicked, Yes, I considered that but (1) it would likely look like shit (even though Im the only one to look at them, I'd still like this automated system to be aesthetically pleasing), (2) I'd be concerned about the paint decaying/flaking after repeated cleanings between batches.  My main question for everyone (without me having to explain a lot of fabrication details) is how they induce all their fruits to grow toward top of bin?  With the all clear bins and clear bins with white tops, about 40% of my fruits grow all wild.   Im working on some sketches to better convey what I'm thinking and will either post them here or maybe start a new thread.


Edited by ilikethings, 18 October 2019 - 03:53 PM.

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#8 smellitstinknot

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Posted 18 October 2019 - 06:04 PM

You don't need an opaque tub to have mushrooms grow vertically. Many growers use the transparent tubs and produce beautiful canopies of cubes (I'm assuming you're growing cubes?). Keep the lights overhead for greatest intensity and they'll grow in that direction. The best automated setups are also the simplest. No need for humidifiers, HEPA filters and air pumps along with a bunch of probes. I know it's tempting to add all these gizmos to your FC but in reality we're not trying to buil a decompression chamber and mushrooms don't know the difference between these elaborate set ups and an unmodified tub with the lid flipped for FAE. For cubensis that means co2 levels below 5000ppm. Even a SGFC is overkill for the species with no real performance benefit seen despite maintaining co2 levels below 1000ppm. In turn growers started to work with designs which would choke other species and see no adverse affects on fruit body development or yield.


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#9 KapnDank

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Posted 18 October 2019 - 06:36 PM

Fruits (cubes anyways) tend to grow with the air currents more so than the direction of the light IME. Monotubs use convection to circulate air which means the air rises upwards and out the top therefore the mushroom grow in the same direction. Add forced airflow and they start growing in all directions and a bit chaotic.
Dig the setup but like TV said you can use that setup to run many tubs. In fact expanding it to multiple tubs will likely make it less temperamental to dial in and also reduce the likelihood of frying your fruits from excessive airflow.
I remember the first time I fried a flush by leaving my exhaust fan on too long of a cycle. Man I was pissed. They were looking so beautiful lol
Also if you're tackling a automated setup I HIGHLY suggest trying your hand at pan cyans or stone producers which love a high fae setup.
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#10 TumblingStone

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Posted 01 December 2019 - 02:34 PM

Sweet setup  :cool:  great thread.

 

Was thinking of building something pretty similar, seeing as i have limited time at home as well.

thinking about using a smaller fan, maybe a computer fan or something hooked up to a timer(little cheaper/lighterairflow) 

Thanks for posting, how did the rest of the grow go?



#11 stmhunter

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Posted 07 December 2019 - 01:39 PM

i just put mine in the fruiting binds and check them once or twice a day.






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