23 replies to this topic

[Asura]

Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens

This is not a tek. This is all of the information you will need to grow pan cyans. I'll tell you how I do it and hopefully give you the information you need for your
own particular set of circumstances. If you are looking for a simple, step-by-step approach. This is not it.

Acknowledgements
These grows would not be possible without the tireless efforts of mary fairchild and Blue Helix, the undisputed masters of pan cyans, and my myco brother, from another mother, dextr0.
Thank you all for answering my endless questions, enthusiastically and with seemingly boundless patience and support. Ya'll took me in and freely shared your knowledge with me and I am very grateful.

TL;DR - Show me some fruits
(in order of appearance: 2nd flush huasteca, 2nd flush aussie, 1st flush aussie, 2nd flush jams, 1st flush jams, 1st flush jams, 3rd flush Aussie, 2nd flush Aussie)


Introduction

I've been working on this write up for about a year and a half now. I'm not where I want to be with this species, but I think I'm getting there.
My hope is that more people will become interested in cultivating this species and grow the body of knowledge around it.

If you like a challenge, these are more challenging to grow than cubensis. I think of cubes as cats and pan cyans as dogs. You do a lot of the
same things with both, but one needs a little more TLC than the other.

As for potency, these will not disappoint.

Quote:
Blue Helix said:
I do not recommend taking over 1 dried gram until you know what you are dealing with. If you take them wet,
you'd better start with no more than about 7 wet grams your first try. Now, I am serious here: these are not
light weight mushrooms like cubensis! Like I said, the batch I grew was at least 4 to 5 times as strong as any
cubensis I have ever grown, and I've grow lots of types on all sorts of stuff. Just be careful with them!

There it is, from the master himself.

I've heard that they are anywhere from 3x to 5x stronger than cubes. All I can say is "yeah they are something" 

Going by my own personal experience, 2g dried is stronger than 3g of APE and 5g of regular cubes. And if you like weird, they get weird.

My record haul from one tray is 31g dry. Doesn't sound like much for 3 quarts of substrate, but when you factor in that it is enough to
give you 31 world class trips or 15 "should I call 911?" type experiences, the math is easy. Gram for gram they blow cubes out of the
water in terms of potency.

Here's how I do it...

Path
Agar -> LC -> Sterilized substrate bags -> two trays -> recovery -> case & fruit

Agar
I currently use this method to transfer spores to plates.

The phenotype you are after is wispy and fast. The plate on the left is what you want, the one on the right
not so much.
 

The plate on the left produced a beautiful tray of fruits (see above). The plates on the right made this mess:


I am after wispy and fast growth. If I don't get this phenotype, I will chuck the plate. For instance,
if I have fast growth, but the mycelium is extremely tomentose, it's trash. If I get nice wispy growth, but the
mycelium is moving really slowly, it's trash. Admittedly, I could be throwing away perfectly good cultures, because
theoretically, you never truly know until you fruit something. I'm fine with that. I've had enough failures
attempting to fruit something outside of my target phenotype.

You can save yourself time and aggravation at this stage by knowing when to quit and trying again with something new.
If you don't get this part right, you are facing at minimum 25 days of wasted effort (assuming an ideal
fruiting cycle).

Liquid Culture
Plates are "tic-tac-toed" to LC. My LC recipe is:

5g Light Malt Extract (LME)
20g dextrose (Karo, roughly 1tsp)
500ml water

PC for 20 minutes at 15psi.

I make my own LC lids which consists of a single 0.22um syringe filter. I do not use injection ports (anymore).

The jar has a magnetic stir bar in it so that I can put it on a stir plate.

A healthy pan cyans culture will grow out fully in 5-6 days in these conditions.



Spawn Bags (Direct Inoculation)
This type of grow is done a little differently from what you would do with a typical cubensis grow. There is no grain spawn.
Instead, "supplemental" grain is added to horse manure, straw and verm. ~63% water by weight is added to the substrate.
Spawn bags are sterilized for 4 hours and then inoculated with LC.

Substrate
Horse manure 675g
Milo 250g (WBS is fine) <- grain is not prepped in any way
Straw 75g
Vermiculite 100g
----------------------
Total weight 1100g

This leads to a dry weight of 1100g. And this assumes that everything (particularly manure) is BONE DRY.

Now for the water...

I added 1900g of water to the substrate. Nice math because this adds up to 3000g total weight.
I did that on purpose.



Generally, a substrate for pans should contain contain about 65% water. This substrate has ~63%, but with the
addition of 240ml of LC later on, that will bring it to ~65%.

This might seem like a lot of water, but this particular substrate will hold A LOT. The substrate will
be HEAVY with it, but if you grab a handful it will not drip unless you squeeze tightly. It's not what I
would consider "field capacity", but then again I consider field capacity a worthless, subjective
measurement anyway. It's much better to know what percentage of water your substrate will hold so you can
replicate your recipes precisely every time.



This recipe is enough for two 4 quart Pyrex trays, the preferred growing tray of pan cyans cultivators world wide...or maybe just the few that I know 

Note, this is what I use and I apologize for everything being by weight. If you want a more generalized by volume recipe,
here you go:

40% straw / 30% hpoo / 15% verm / 15% grain

You can weigh your substrate at this point and add water slowly, shooting for 65% of the total.

Sterilize

I use 0.5µ spawn bags. Each bag will receive ~3 quarts of substrate (full quarts, not myco quarts).



Spawn bags can be successfully pre-sealed before sterilizing if all excess air is removed from the bag, excess bag material
is neatly folded around the bag, and the bags are allowed to cool slowly and completely before removing them from the PC.

I pre-seal with an impulse sealer (double seal) and roll up the bag so the filter patch is not directly exposed. I like to tape
down the lip of the bag down with masking tape. The PC is a violent place and I have had my fair share of bags get tossed around
and unfurled during a cycle. This is probably because overall I suck at bags. I want everything to stay where it is so that the
filter has minimal direct exposure.

PC for 4 hours at 15 psi.

Yes, 4 hours. Not a typo.

I'm a little paranoid about doing runs this long, so what I do is put three layers of jar lids on the bottom of the PC, then
put the canning rack on top of that. I fill the PC so that the water just comes over the canning rack - it's about 5 quarts.
I've run out of water before and let me tell you, it's no fun pulling bags out of the PC with holes in them.

I usually let the bags sit in the PC over night. When removed, the bags will be voided of air. I hang the bags in a closet using
wood clamps and over the next several hours, air will be pulled into the bag through the filter patch. This will provide the
mycelium with enough oxygen to colonize the bags over the next 10-15 days or so.



Inoculate

Before I inoculate, I like to shake the sub to "fluff" it up a bit in the bag. I'll do another check to make sure everything is
sealed properly and that there are no holes.

The important thing here is that there is bag integrity and the sterile environment has been maintained.

Each bag is inoculated with 120ml of LC. In the past I have used as little as 60ml with success, but I like to use more for two
reasons: it brings the moisture level of the substrate to ~65% and it grows out quicker.

I use a hot glue gun to seal up the injection site, but micropore tape is probably fine.

Edited by Asura, 15 October 2019 - 08:52 PM.

[Asura]

Colonization

I let the bags colonize for ~15 days in my grow room, keeping the temp 76-80°F. Somewhere in the middle of that time, I will
gently break up the substrate and redistribute the mycelium evenly through out the bag.

I probably need a pic here but I don't have one at the moment (future self, add picture here). After 10-15 days,
the bags are ready to be crumbled and laid to trays.

Recovery

Bags are broken up, cut open and contents are laid out to 4 quart Pyrex baking trays. It will come out of the bag a little clumpy.
I try to level the substrate as much as possible. Substrate depth is anywhere from 1.75 to 2" in depth.



One thing to note here is that once you lay out the trays, you might not even be able see the mycelium. Pan mycelium is very wispy.
Add the fact that the substrate has very little grain and it makes sense. Don't worry it will grow really quickly.

This is also a good time for a "sniff" test. Healthy pan substrate will smell like almonds...or maybe almond
extract. Somewhere between the two, but with an earthy smell that is similar yet different from cubensis.

Each tray is covered with foil and set aside to recover for 5-7 days. I like to poke 4-5 small holes in the foil
for gas exchange. I have placed trays in my grow room during recovery (76-80°F) and I have also just put them on
a shelf somewhere in my house (70-72°F). It doesn't seem to make a difference, so I opt not to do
recovery in the grow room mainly because of inadequate space.

Now a quick word about Pyrex trays. There are many advantages:

• They are about 2.25" deep which is just about the perfect sub depth (+ casing layer) for this species.
• You can see through them, so it's easy to see how healthy (hopefully) the mycelium is under the casing layer.
• It makes it easy to see if you are taking on too much water. You want the casing layer wet at all times, but you
  don't want a lot of moisture going through to the sub and making it overly wet.
• Finally, they're easy to clean.

Casing

After the recovery period, it's time to case the trays. Pan cyans needs a proper casing layer that will not readily feed the mycelium.
During fruiting the casing should have rhizomorphic mycelium tunneling through it, to the surface. But it should not be consumed. It's purpose
is to protect the mycelium, provide a moisture barrier and transport water.

It truly is a distinct and separate layer, as shown here in this cross section of substrate:

You can see that the casing layer is still in place, roughly 20 days after fruiting and has not been colonized over.

My casing recipe is as follows:

280g peat
260g vermiculite
800g distilled water (dH20)
60g calcium carbonate (CaCO3)
0.6g calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2) (optional)

Add the Ca(OH)2 to the water and mix, then add the water to the rest of the ingredients.

This will yield 4 full quarts of casing with a pH of ~7.7.

The peat, vermiculite and dH20 by themselves have pH of ~6.5. The CaC03 bumps that slightly above neutral to ~7.2.
The Ca(OH)2 is very powerful in small amounts. The .6g I used was all it took to bump up the pH from 7.2 to 7.7.
I would consider the Ca(OH)2 to be optional if you do not have a pH probe.

However, I have made this exact recipe several times now, and after validating with a probe several times I know that it is 7.7 pH, so
following this recipe should be fine without a probe.

Note, I currently use this peat in my recipe for availability reasons:


It is "enriched with Miracle Grow" but that doesn't seem to be a factor. For one, we aren't growing plants. Two,
if done right, the mycelium doesn't even colonize this casing. Three, I've used other peat prior and it worked
fine.

Note, at this point, the casing will be below field capacity. I like it light and fluffy because it will be easier
to apply later on. The casing will be heavily misted after application anyway.

Pasteurize the casing for 1 hour.

When applying the casing, you want it very level. Here's how I do it.

First, I fill in all of the valleys in the substrate to level it out. Remember, this sub isn't like coir.
It will be clumpy. I patch in the casing and detail it with a fork. Slowly, I work it it until I have something
reasonably level. At this point the casing is literally millimeters thick. This is an important step. If you
just dump casing on top of the substrate you will most likely create voids between the substrate and the casing.
You don't want this to happen.

Once I have a reasonably level surface, I pile up the rest of the casing so the tray is overflowing and level
it with a concrete trowel. Here I am applying a casing layer to a tray that has been in recovery for 5 days.
Compare that to the pic above and you can see that pan cyans colonizes very rapidly.



After leveling there will still be small divots in parts of the casing. I meticulously fill these in with more casing
using a fork and level by hand.

After casing is complete I give it a good misting (drench it) and put them in the fruiting chamber.

Fruiting (Part 1)

There is much ground to cover here. I want to talk about general fruiting conditions, how I achieve them and how you might set things up for yourself.

Conditions

Successful fruiting requires the understanding of these factors: humidity/evaporation, temperature, and fresh air exchange (FAE). The general
piece of advice I have is that the friendlier you make your grow room, the easier it will be to dial in these conditions in your fruiting chamber (FC).
For reasons that will become clearer below, I also recommend a small grow room.

Temperature

Pans like temps in the range of 76-80°F. If I could lock in a temp perfectly, I would have it exactly 77°F at all times. A little fluctuation
doesn't seem to hurt, but if temps drop too low, especially before the first flush, it can ruin the entire grow. Drops like this can even
happen in the middle of summer in Texas as I found out last year. The water pipes in my walls would cool the tile in my FC and drop temps
to the low 70's and sometimes even below 70...gasp! This is why I have a heater in my grow room year around.

To maintain temperature some heat source (heat lamps, heater, seedling mats or a combination thereof) is used either in the grow room, the FC itself,
or both. For instance, you might have a heater in your grow room that keeps the temperature at 74°F and your FC might have a heat lamp on it hooked up
to a temp controller that brings it up to appropriate level. There are a wide variety of ways to accomplish this. If you can keep your FC in the proper
range at all times, you are doing it right.

Generally, you want to maintain low deltas (no more than ±10°F) between your grow room and your FC. If your grow room is already heated it's easier to maintain
temps in your FC. 

Humidity/Evaporation

Pinning is best at 100% relative humidity (RH). Humidity is commonly maintained using wicking humidifiers, ultrasonic misters or a bucket fogger aka humidibucket.
Here. I'll just use the terms "fogger" and "fog" for simplicity.

With that said, check out this quote!

Quote:
RogerRabbit said:
You can have 100% humidity right at the substrate surface, while having +/-95% humidity within the air of the fruiting chamber itself. 
Even at 99% humidity, if you're getting good fresh air exchange, evaporation from the substrate will occur.

In other words, it's not as simple as setting your humidity controller to 100% and walking away. Fogging should not be required to keep 100% RH. If you fog too much,
you will ruin your grow by over-saturating your substrates. It's best to bring up your baseline RH first, and then use a fogger on a controller to get your environment
the rest of the way.

First dial in your grow room.

Quote:
BlueHelix said:
I recommend humidifying OUTSIDE of the grow chamber too if you do not have at least a 50% RH in the grow room

As with temps, you want to bring up the surrounding RH. The less you have to do to keep your FC in the appropriate ranges, the easier it will be.

This is not always practical, and where I live it's easy for me to attain 70% RH in my grow room doing almost nothing.

I like mary fairchild's approach. On the bottom shelf of her martha she has a wicking  humidifier that is always on which brings her FC into the 70's.
Next to it she has a bin filled with water heated to 95°F with an aquarium heater that brings it to ~85%. Finally, she uses an ultrasonic mister on a humidity controller
to bring it up to ~100%.

FAE

You want constant FAE. This can be from an open door or window. I like good circulation in my grow room, too, so I have a small fan that is always on. Some people use PC fans
in the martha to move air, usually from bottom to top, and have some kind of venting for the air to escape. You want your air moving SLOWLY. You have to maintain high
humidity and introduce fresh air at the same time. This will be next to impossible if you have a hurricane going on in your grow room/FC.

Edited by Asura, 15 October 2019 - 08:52 PM.

[Asura]

Fruiting (Part 2)

I am going to talk about my grow room, FC and how I maintain the conditions mentioned above.



My grow room is a small bathroom and I fruit in a walk in shower 

I use a heater in the grow room to keep temps around 76-80°F at all times. Unfortunately, I am having issues with the wiring in my house
and am unable to use a temp controller (the fault protection keeps tripping) at this time.

I live in an area with generally high humidity, so I don't need much to bump things up to where they need to go.

Additional humidity is provided by my bucket fogger which generates fog using a 3-disc pond fogger. I use a 4" duct fan to blow the fog
through a vinyl dryer hose which goes into my fruiting chamber. The fogger is turned on and off via a Willhi humidity controller. However,
the duct fan is always on, pushing air from the grow room into the FC. I also have a water-proof PC fan on a speed controller that is
on the bottom rack of the shelf in my FC. Additionally, there is a calibrated analog hygrometer in the FC that I use to help me dial things
in.

How I dial it in

After cleaning out my grow room and FC top to bottom. I like to build everything up a little at a time. I find it helps me understand
the conditions in my grow room/FC a little better.

With no FAE and nothing set up, my baseline humidity is running about 50%.

First, I like to add my passive humidity, which is a tub of water heated to around 90°F with an aquarium heater. This can bring up
my baseline to about 90% at this time of year (a nice Texas spring!)

Next, I will introduce FAE, which will cause a drop in my baseline RH. Usually to about 80%.

After FAE, I turn on the heat. You might think this will increase RH, but no, it will drop again to about 75%. But over the course
of several hours it will go up to steady 80%.
 

Quote:
Some guy on the Internet said:
Hot air has the capacity to hold more water than cooler air -- so if the temperature rises and there's no extra moisture added to the air, the relative humidity will go down.
 

Finally, I add my active humidity (the bucket fogger) which will manage the task of bringing it all back up to ~100%.

Humidity controller

My humidity controller has been running almost non-stop for a year. I learned a little trick that keeps the sensor operational for a longer period
of time by coating it in silicon (being careful not to cover the important bits).



It is also important to make sure your humidity controller is properly calibrated. I do this by wrapping the sensor in a wet paper towel and placing
it in a Ziplock bag for at least 2 hours. Completely wet the paper towel and squeeze it out. You don't want the sensor under water.



Make sure the calibration is set to 0% when you start. After 2 hours make note of the humidity reading. When I last calibrated, the top reading was 97%, so I set the
calibration setting to +3%. My analog hygrometer and the controller tend to stay at the same value, so I know that my environment is generally where I want it.

If you are using a controller that does not have the option of disabling alarms (certain Inkbird models for instance), you can work around this by calibrating down.
For example, if your top reading during calibration is 100%, you might calibrate down -5% so that your max value is 95%. Then you can set the high alarm
on the controller to 100% - which should never be reached. The low alarm can be set to zero, which will also (hopefully) never be reached. The downside, of course, is
that you will have to mentally convert what is shown on the controller display to it's actual value. I have dealt with this in the past taping a simple chart
on the wall:
95 = 100
94 = 99
93 = 98
etc.

If you are interested in building a fogger like mine, here is a great video that explains the details:

https://www.youtube....1&v=NtfuuThTTgg

 

FAE is provided by either opening the window a crack (when weather permits) or just keeping the door to the grow room open. I also have
a small fan in the grow room that circulates air.

I like to have everything set up a couple of days before I fruit so I can do some testing. I'll throw an empty tray into the FC and set the humidity
controller to 92-94% (when expressed like this I am talking about the low and high limits on the controller). Over the course of the day I will
gradually bump up the humidity. Here, the humidity is at 96-98%.

This tray was bone dry at over 12 hours in the FC, even with the high humidity. This lets me know I am getting the evaporation I need.
I bumped it up to 97-99% and after sitting there all day, I had a small amount of moisture on the tray, but it was not pooling.
This is exactly what I am after.

Edited by Asura, 15 October 2019 - 08:54 PM.

[Asura]

Fruiting (Part 3)
 

If everything is ideal, you can expect pins to come in ~5-6 days from fruiting.

 

As soon as I see pins come in, I dial down the humidity in the range of 92-95%. Initial pins can be very hard to see because they are really

tiny. But my eyes are bad, so this may not be a problem for you.

 

Less humidity at this stage means that I end up watering the casing layer by hand with a syringe to keep it wet. I gently water the entire

casing, trying my best not to make contact with any pins.

 

Pans don't really have distinct flushes like I've experienced with cubes. They come in waves. You can expect to harvest your first wave 5-7 days

after pinning. I always have some fruits that mature well before the others. Pans move so quickly that I will just leave them if I have pins that

are half the size and wait for everything to catch up. If I have a lot of really small pins along with the mature fruits, I will harvest everything

that's ready, being careful not to come in contact with the smaller pins.

 

Here, pins were about this size after 3 days when I watered them with a syringe:

 

I put about 50ml total on the surface.

 

A day later shows significant growth. You see that a second wave of pins is starting to come in.

 

I watered again because the casing was drying out a bit.

 

Two days later (6 days from first pins) and the first flush was ready for harvest.

 

After harvest, I drench the casing layer (pour a cup of water on it) and put the tray back in the FC for another flush, which can come in anywhere

from 3-5 days. My record is 5 flushes. Nothing contaminated, I just got bored and had to make room in FC for new trays. Usually, I shoot for 3 flushes.

 

Based on my experience, you will know what to do after your 6th pan grow 

Edited by Asura, 15 October 2019 - 09:02 PM.

[ElrikEriksson]

Great write up, some very useful information

I'm curious about details of your agar culture, since thats where I am right now

Firstly, what agar formulation are you using? I like how it resolves them so clearly into wispy and tomentose, I'm wondering if that would be less distinct if the nutrition was overly dense.

Also, how do you sector them out into isolates? I assume the plates you showed were resolved into individual substrains, or close to that. So based on that I take it that those subtle radial striations often seen with Pan mycelium like this:

That's not indicative of sectoring, its just the pattern of growth?

Do you happen to have a picture of a single inoculation point growing out into phenotypically similar distinct sectors? Like two fast wispies growing from the same point. To date I haven't come across distinct pictures of that.

If I had the above plate I'd still be sectoring it, not entirely sure it needed it

[Nicked]

Wow, thanks for this Asura. A huge amount of valuable info here.
My goal is to dial in a grow room to get Pan cyans going. The complexity, challenge and attention to detail is enticing.
In my case I've had to buy a cannabis grow tent and modify that as for the life of me I cannot find a Martha or a portable plastic greenhouse anywhere. I've got myself a Pan cambo 'Goliath' swab to start with and plan to get that going sometime early next year once I've built up my FC. Now to learn how to work with agar, get my pasteurization techniques down and carry on learning and reading.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk

[Asura]

My agar in that particular pic was just a pre-mix MEA from Shroom Supply. I believe 9g MEA to 500ml water.

 

If I am making my own I currently do 1000ml dH20, 20g agar, 10g LME (but I play with these numbers, sometimes 5g LME and 5g dextrose)

 

Actually, I think that entire plate in that pic was just put right to LC (most of it) and it ended up being one of those trays of Aussie's

in the pics.

 

I do all my sectoring based on "wispy and fast" that is literally it. Sometimes I will get a monoculture, but often I do not. I don't like doing

boat loads of plates because I have noticed that often times the culture will just wear out. If I get something that is growing fast, equally

in all directions and wispy - like the pic...I'll fruit it.

 

Ok, if I missed any of your questions lemme know!

[peacefrog]

Thank you for putting in the time and effort for this post!

Great stuff and it will certainly help many cultivators, new and seasoned, grow my favorite species to date. I just love seeing grows of those little guys.

And they are potent as you and others say. 1.5 dried grams is more than enough for me to experience a solid level 4 experience personally. Mileage and/or tolerances may vary from person to person and fruit to fruit with MS grows, but still MUCH more potent than any cube I have ever ingested.

I like that you touched on something that I have said for several years about um. Isolation of proper genetics/cultures will go a LONG way with getting consistent canopy flushes with them. 99% of all MS grows will never produce like a great culture you have worked with and refined through many transfers and even more tests. Refine the genetics and you will be rewarded with awesome and consistent flushes for years if stored and cared for properly.

Good vibes and again, awesome post!

[Asura]

Hey Peacefrog, thanks for the kind words. That means a lot. I agree with 100% about having a good culture. 90% of the work is done

for you if you have the right one. They just seem to want to fruit for you. I'm still learning so much about this species. I just love growing

them and I love hearing stories from people who have tried them. There are several people on the other site that have struck gold for

the first time recently...first words are usually "Holy Shit!".

 

And I think you and I have similar tolerances. I actually got into pans because a friend grew some years ago just as I was 

getting into cultivation. He had never tried them so he was only used to cubes. He recommended that I try 2g just

to "test the waters". It was my first trip in about 20 years. Needless to say it blew the doors off. Had no idea you could

trip that hard. I was hanging on for dear life 

[peacefrog]

Haha I bet. 2 dried grams and I would be completely lost in “mushroom world”. I do find them to be the kindest of all of I have tried though. But if you take too much, yep they can turn dark on you lol.

And great to cultivate, fast and filled with medicine for the soul IMO.

I always had issues with body load with most species I have taken, but these little guys seem to produce none for me personally. No anxiety on the come on, and nothing of body noise what so ever. It’s a fun ride from onset to the end for me.

Keep on keeping on my friend and I look forward to seeing more spectacular grows from you and others.

Join the Pan nation!

[orangutan]

Yes, thank you so much for laying everything out like that.  Your efforts are greatly appreciated and your grows are beautiful.

 

How exactly do you water your casings with a syringe?  Are you piercing the sub with a needle and injecting water in there?  Are you gingerly dripping water onto the casing with the needle, avoiding any pins?

[Asura]

Yeah you just want to water the casing and avoid the pins

[YoshiTrainer]

Thank you Asura, what a meticulous write up and amazing photos! Definitely inspires me to try these next!
Would you use the same techniques for pan biosporus,
cambodginiensis or tropicalis?

[Asura]

It should work for cambo's, but I have never personally grown them. Tropicalis

is very finicky and very difficult to grow. Same principals as described here work,

but any fluctuations in optimal conditions seem to make them crap out. Bisporus

works as well but takes twice as long to grow out and fruit - longer to grow out in

bags and pins usually take around 10 days versus 5 for cyans. 

[YoshiTrainer]

More great information, thank you!

I'm surprised you haven't grown Cambos yet, I'd bet you'd have similar incredible results.

[Asura]

Would love to grow cambo's, but just never had an opportunity to get a print. I refuse to pay the

outrageous prices that spore vendors charge for pan prints. I'm sure a print will find it's way to

me eventually.

[YoshiTrainer]

Whenever they find their way home, please post lots of pics!

[Asura]

Ha someone is sending me a swab of cambo. Happened to see someone mentioning they had just streaked some plates today.

 

It just happens that way sometimes 

[YoshiTrainer]

Woo hoo, good luck!

[Nurko65]

Asura,

You indicate you extend the life of your humidity sensor by coating it in silicone (except for the important (sensing) area).

What form of silicone do you use, i.e. silicone sealant, silicone spray, etc? I have lost a couple of humidity sensors - In one, the tiny wires corroded and opened.

Many thanks