This is not a tek. This is all of the information you will need to grow pan cyans. I'll tell you how I do it and hopefully give you the information you need for your
own particular set of circumstances. If you are looking for a simple, step-by-step approach. This is not it.
These grows would not be possible without the tireless efforts of mary fairchild and Blue Helix, the undisputed masters of pan cyans, and my myco brother, from another mother, dextr0.
Thank you all for answering my endless questions, enthusiastically and with seemingly boundless patience and support. Ya'll took me in and freely shared your knowledge with me and I am very grateful.
TL;DR - Show me some fruits
(in order of appearance: 2nd flush huasteca, 2nd flush aussie, 1st flush aussie, 2nd flush jams, 1st flush jams, 1st flush jams, 3rd flush Aussie, 2nd flush Aussie)
I've been working on this write up for about a year and a half now. I'm not where I want to be with this species, but I think I'm getting there.
My hope is that more people will become interested in cultivating this species and grow the body of knowledge around it.
If you like a challenge, these are more challenging to grow than cubensis. I think of cubes as cats and pan cyans as dogs. You do a lot of the
same things with both, but one needs a little more TLC than the other.
As for potency, these will not disappoint.
Blue Helix said:
I do not recommend taking over 1 dried gram until you know what you are dealing with. If you take them wet,
you'd better start with no more than about 7 wet grams your first try. Now, I am serious here: these are not
light weight mushrooms like cubensis! Like I said, the batch I grew was at least 4 to 5 times as strong as any
cubensis I have ever grown, and I've grow lots of types on all sorts of stuff. Just be careful with them!
There it is, from the master himself.
I've heard that they are anywhere from 3x to 5x stronger than cubes. All I can say is "yeah they are something"
Going by my own personal experience, 2g dried is stronger than 3g of APE and 5g of regular cubes. And if you like weird, they get weird.
My record haul from one tray is 31g dry. Doesn't sound like much for 3 quarts of substrate, but when you factor in that it is enough to
give you 31 world class trips or 15 "should I call 911?" type experiences, the math is easy. Gram for gram they blow cubes out of the
water in terms of potency.
Here's how I do it...
Agar -> LC -> Sterilized substrate bags -> two trays -> recovery -> case & fruit
I currently use this method to transfer spores to plates.
The phenotype you are after is wispy and fast. The plate on the left is what you want, the one on the right
not so much.
The plate on the left produced a beautiful tray of fruits (see above). The plates on the right made this mess:
I am after wispy and fast growth. If I don't get this phenotype, I will chuck the plate. For instance,
if I have fast growth, but the mycelium is extremely tomentose, it's trash. If I get nice wispy growth, but the
mycelium is moving really slowly, it's trash. Admittedly, I could be throwing away perfectly good cultures, because
theoretically, you never truly know until you fruit something. I'm fine with that. I've had enough failures
attempting to fruit something outside of my target phenotype.
You can save yourself time and aggravation at this stage by knowing when to quit and trying again with something new.
If you don't get this part right, you are facing at minimum 25 days of wasted effort (assuming an ideal
Plates are "tic-tac-toed" to LC. My LC recipe is:
5g Light Malt Extract (LME)
20g dextrose (Karo, roughly 1tsp)
PC for 20 minutes at 15psi.
I make my own LC lids which consists of a single 0.22um syringe filter. I do not use injection ports (anymore).
The jar has a magnetic stir bar in it so that I can put it on a stir plate.
A healthy pan cyans culture will grow out fully in 5-6 days in these conditions.
Spawn Bags (Direct Inoculation)
This type of grow is done a little differently from what you would do with a typical cubensis grow. There is no grain spawn.
Instead, "supplemental" grain is added to horse manure, straw and verm. ~63% water by weight is added to the substrate.
Spawn bags are sterilized for 4 hours and then inoculated with LC.
Horse manure 675g
Milo 250g (WBS is fine) <- grain is not prepped in any way
Total weight 1100g
This leads to a dry weight of 1100g. And this assumes that everything (particularly manure) is BONE DRY.
Now for the water...
I added 1900g of water to the substrate. Nice math because this adds up to 3000g total weight.
I did that on purpose.
Generally, a substrate for pans should contain contain about 65% water. This substrate has ~63%, but with the
addition of 240ml of LC later on, that will bring it to ~65%.
This might seem like a lot of water, but this particular substrate will hold A LOT. The substrate will
be HEAVY with it, but if you grab a handful it will not drip unless you squeeze tightly. It's not what I
would consider "field capacity", but then again I consider field capacity a worthless, subjective
measurement anyway. It's much better to know what percentage of water your substrate will hold so you can
replicate your recipes precisely every time.
This recipe is enough for two 4 quart Pyrex trays, the preferred growing tray of pan cyans cultivators world wide...or maybe just the few that I know
Note, this is what I use and I apologize for everything being by weight. If you want a more generalized by volume recipe,
here you go:
40% straw / 30% hpoo / 15% verm / 15% grain
You can weigh your substrate at this point and add water slowly, shooting for 65% of the total.
I use 0.5µ spawn bags. Each bag will receive ~3 quarts of substrate (full quarts, not myco quarts).
Spawn bags can be successfully pre-sealed before sterilizing if all excess air is removed from the bag, excess bag material
is neatly folded around the bag, and the bags are allowed to cool slowly and completely before removing them from the PC.
I pre-seal with an impulse sealer (double seal) and roll up the bag so the filter patch is not directly exposed. I like to tape
down the lip of the bag down with masking tape. The PC is a violent place and I have had my fair share of bags get tossed around
and unfurled during a cycle. This is probably because overall I suck at bags. I want everything to stay where it is so that the
filter has minimal direct exposure.
PC for 4 hours at 15 psi.
Yes, 4 hours. Not a typo.
I'm a little paranoid about doing runs this long, so what I do is put three layers of jar lids on the bottom of the PC, then
put the canning rack on top of that. I fill the PC so that the water just comes over the canning rack - it's about 5 quarts.
I've run out of water before and let me tell you, it's no fun pulling bags out of the PC with holes in them.
I usually let the bags sit in the PC over night. When removed, the bags will be voided of air. I hang the bags in a closet using
wood clamps and over the next several hours, air will be pulled into the bag through the filter patch. This will provide the
mycelium with enough oxygen to colonize the bags over the next 10-15 days or so.
Before I inoculate, I like to shake the sub to "fluff" it up a bit in the bag. I'll do another check to make sure everything is
sealed properly and that there are no holes.
The important thing here is that there is bag integrity and the sterile environment has been maintained.
Each bag is inoculated with 120ml of LC. In the past I have used as little as 60ml with success, but I like to use more for two
reasons: it brings the moisture level of the substrate to ~65% and it grows out quicker.
I use a hot glue gun to seal up the injection site, but micropore tape is probably fine.
Edited by Asura, 15 October 2019 - 08:52 PM.