789 replies to this topic

[coAsTal]

Seriously guys-- if you're having issues with stalled subs, cold soak the thing for a couple hours and re-case.

 

Side pins are freaking insane on all four sides

 

Look at these purty little twins

[Asura]

I did exactly that and ended up getting trich. Might be because my sub was manure based.

I just put wedges to some more jars last night and this time will just use CVG.

[Celestialexplorer1]

I have two bags with the top folded over with 2lbs of grain and 3 lbs of CVG with just a handful of manure pellets and there looking good.

[coAsTal]

I think I may try and make a clone culture of one of those twins I pictured in the next day or two when I'm in the SAB- I really love that phenotype appearance and I want to see if I can replicate it.

 

One thing I can't help but think about though-- the soak obviously revitalized* the sub, but the fruits are all still very small compared to so many others I've seen... not certain what would contribute to that specifically here.

In my cased-grain tray they were all small like this (through all three flushes) as well. That was a very small closed micro-climate (lid for the tray was always on, so it had maybe 4" of space between the casing and the "roof". That's about the max height they got there, and the bag fruits look about the same despite completely different sub and conditions.

 

This is a Captain Future spore print, so I know they can be 7+ inches tall with 1/4" stipes because he's shown it to be so.

 

Something I'm doing is stunting this species, and I want to figure it out together.

This bag's sub is ~60% straw pellets, ~15% h-poo, and ~15% coir and 10% rye spawn.

I will not use this sub recipe next time.

 

I am with you Asura, I think I'm just going to go with coir as the main sub base next time-- (with maybe 10 or 20% compost and 10% spawn, because I don't want too many nutes in the sub-- I want to try and keep nute ratios between 1:3 and 1:4-ish to see if it helps here). 

 

I'm also really thinking I might want to try a thinner sub format instead of fruiting in the bag to see how that performs.

PC and spawn/colonize in a bag like before because it is great for compact storage of the sub, but once it's 100% colonized I could break it up and lay it in a full size tray like you do with pans, let it fortify/re-consolidate, case, and then fruit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Could my (our) slow growth and performance up to now have a water content element? I soaked the shit out of the cased grain tray and had pins within a month. Do we maybe consider a heavier water ratio/supply within the sub for Semps, perhaps to see if they respond with more robust growth speed?

[YoshiTrainer]

I've gotten all sorts of sizes and shapes from this species. I've had some small, skinny, deformed and normal full sized fruits, all at the same time. Even clones, so far, have been all over the place. I've fruited maybe 12 containers of various sizes, maybe sub thickness does have something to do w/it? Thinner subs (2"?) may have produced more "normal" looking fruits??? I'm also curious about lighting. I recently moved my subs from N facing windows to S, hopefully they respond well.

[Jrotten]

I feel like bags or trays/tubs with a liner are a must. Coir and general compost. I think a consolidation period might also make good sense. A casing that can take a heavy misting and not compress. I have not had anything but bags fruit. They took forever.

[Asura]

Coastal, I am kind of thinking along the same lines as you. I only made 4 jars of spawn but I am going to use

the lower ratios and a thinner sub as well. I think I can get at least 3-4 shoeboxes going with what I have.

I'll put the shoeboxes in a mono to fruit. I forget the guy's name...Riverbum or something like that???

He does everything pretty standard and is getting amazing flushes.

[coAsTal]

YT- I know from seeing JR's stuff and then seeing for myself that these guys are very light sensitive-- they will bend in a day or two if you put light to one side. I've been using an aquarium light that has 6500k and blue LED's at about 20% strength most of the time with these. Maybe this is a factor- but it's tough to say. I'd love to see if there were an effect with different types, but I have 6500k LED's coming out of my ass, so somebody else might have to try different temp.

 

Jrotten-- I am still glad for the bags, and will be using them for nock up and consolidation, but I want to explore trays with these for fruiting and see what comes from it. The bags work-- no question about that-- but I'm convinced that these shouldn't be taking half a year to grow, despite their reputation as slow pokes. So we'll experiment!

 

Asura-- yes-- that's exactly they guy that got me oriented this way. He also had coffee and sand in his coir.

[Jrotten]

I think trays can work fine, I just think liners are a must. Really just conserving as much water as possible for the duration I think or a reliable way to hydrate. Even when they do pin, they take two weeks at 77 degrees to drops spores. It is painfully slow. You could take pans spore to spore and back in the time it takes a Semperviva flush to fully mature after it starts. My fruiting chamber was essentially 101% RH once I got pins. I’ve considered something like trays with drain holes, a layer of verm, then the sub so they can be flooded and/or bottom watered and just left alone.

I hope somebody figures out the answer, but I’ve not even seen someone with a theory based on observation of how to initiate pinning.

[Celestialexplorer1]

It's strange I have yet to fruit semperviva but I have a bag in fruiting now. I've talked to tons of people who have and gotten so many different answers. Some have said it started pinning right away and others said it took forever. The best results I've seen all had psuedocasings and were not massed with after put in fruiting so I'm seeing a consistent non aggressive environment seems best.