10 replies to this topic

[8709250412]

Attempting my first bulk grow growing some KSSS. Had a fully colonized spawn bag and transferred to the container 15 days ago. Temperature is at 80F, no light is being used. I'm just concerned with the speed and the color as well. Any hope with this?

[wharfrat]

mold, toss it

[Mushinist]

Mean green gotcha! Sorry you'll have to keep trying!

Try not to open it anymore inside, you spread trich spores when you do, if its green its spreading spores, dump outside immediately!

[onediadem]

Yikes..

[8709250412]

Goddamit, had high hopes since the entire bag colonized really well, guess I'm tossing it. Any idea what could have gone wrong? Just trying to understand what I could've done better and avoid in the future.

[PJammer24]

That is shot bud... You gotta start that one over... I never let my temps get up to 80f... I know that Stamets book says that the optimal vegetative growth temperatures are in the low 80's but I have had much better luck staying in the mid to low 70s... They are less likely to contaminate at those lower temperatures.... You should also keep in mind that if the temperature in the room is 80f, then the temperature at the center of the substrate is 2-3 degrees warmer than that... Contaminates typical thrive at warmer temperatures, in greater moister, and in anaerobic conditions.

 

My temps for all stages of growth range from 65-75f depending on the time of year.... I will let my jars colonize upstairs where its about 70-72f all year round. The bags colonize and fruit downstairs where it is 65-75f depending on season... The nicest results tend to be in the winter when temperatures are at their lowest... lower temps result in denser, shorter, fruits that are stout.... They grow too quickly and stretch in warmer temps...

 

Even for the spawn run, you might be adding and extra day, maybe two if you colonize your bags and tubs at around 70f rather than closer to 80f... It took a long time for me to accept that I am better off working in lower temperatures for all phases.

[8709250412]

So I had one more bag colonized and an extra bag of cow manure based casing, but the result was the same - very slow colonization and in the end green mold (threw it away way earlier this time). Other than bad luck (twice), what is it I could've done wrong?

- I had no holes drilled for ventilation at all, is that necessary?
- I use a tub in tub with an aquarium heater since I live in a place with generally colder temperatures that can fluctuate a lot day to day
- No light used at all
- The casing mix had been sitting in the fridge for about 2 months before I used it

[onediadem]

Instead of us asking questions, trying to play a guessing game, please tell us what procedures you used from the start, and we may be able to give you an answer based on all of the info.

[Axl0586]

I got green mold 5 of my first 6 shoeboxes. I thought it was 100% my fault but if you are using spore syringes it could be that they are contaminated. I now grow all my myc out on agar before inoculating so that I can eliminate that cause of mold.

[PJammer24]

I got green mold 5 of my first 6 shoeboxes. I thought it was 100% my fault but if you are using spore syringes it could be that they are contaminated. I now grow all my myc out on agar before inoculating so that I can eliminate that cause of mold.

 

You should be starting your spawn in jars or bags prior to mixing with substrate in your shoe box. If it is the syringe causing contamination, it would happen in the spawn phase rather than in the shoe box... It is likely your pasteurization process leading to contamination rather than the syringe if it is happening after being mixed with substrate in the shoe box.

[Uncle G]

So I had one more bag colonized and an extra bag of cow manure based casing, Manure isnt really a casing but additional substrate because it is high in nuts.  Casing idoes have some nuts but more for water and protection.   Cow manure based casing sounds like the store bought stuff which is full of twigs and all kinds of things that are hard to sterilize.  but the result was the same - very slow colonization  I think fair exchange here is off and causing this.  Be sure you have a good tek and everything has a way to breath.  No air=green mold. dang near everytime

and in the end green mold (threw it away way earlier this time). Other than bad luck (twice), what is it I could've done wrong? - I had no holes drilled for ventilation at all, is that necessary? Yes, you need vents in your jars, subs, fruiting chamber, etc. - I use a tub in tub with an aquarium heater since I live in a place with generally colder temperatures that can fluctuate a lot day to day.  I would use 1 tub with air filter taped to the side. - No light used at all Not a big deal - The casing mix had been sitting in the fridge for about 2 months before I used it.  I wouldnt do this.  Make your casing and then use it.   If you go to vaults I have tek on casing there.   I would heat up my wet casing in the oven for a hour at 220 F but check the  tek on that.  Its been a few years.  

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