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Back in Action with Questions(7 years off)


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#1 armorking1

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 07:24 AM

So I haven’t grown in a long time, and I typically do casing trays.

Well since I’ve come back I’ve moved into working double tubs.

My questions are:

1. When I mix the spawn to substrate am I suppose to have the substrate at field capacity?
2. After I put in the tub, am I suppose to leave the holes cover in my tub until colonization? Right now I have micropore tape on them. Should I just go with ductape and switch over later

3. If I didn’t hydrate the substrate enough when I mixed, should I open it up and give a good round of misting? That’s for the bigger tub... these tubs were started July 27th.

Appreciate any feedback.

#2 armorking1

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 07:27 AM

Here’s a pic

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#3 FunG

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 07:41 AM

Yes, the substrate should be brought to field capacity either during or after pasteurization and before mixing.

You are suppose to leave them covered with duct tape and then switch over to filter material....so do, some dont.

The problem with misting is it's only going to saturate the surface rather then hydrate the substrate itself so hopefully it has enough water to fully run and complete a flush.
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#4 Toybox78

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 07:50 AM

Here’s a pic

Welcome back, you want your substrate to be at field capacity before you pasteurize it, that way when you go to spawn it's as clean as possible . If it comes out a bit too dry, I suggest using a fresh clean spritz bottle rinsed with alcohol and filled with fresh bottled water to minimize introducing contams. But after you wet it down good I wouldn't spray it again until the top is fully colonized . But im contam paranoid lol as for the holes in your tubs ive always used 1 inch holes filled with polly fill , but when I did my shot gun fruiting chamber monotub after spawning I placed the whole tun in a huge black garbage bag until it was ready to case and fruit.
That keeps out light which will help with side and bottom pinning that could lead to contam if missed and it keeps the air clean while its vulnerable.
Hope that helps.
T B

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#5 Toybox78

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 07:50 AM

Yes, the substrate should be brought to field capacity either during or after pasteurization and before mixing.

You are suppose to leave them covered with duct tape and then switch over to filter material....so do, some dont.

The problem with misting is it's only going to saturate the surface rather then hydrate the substrate itself so hopefully it has enough water to fully run and complete a flush.

Ah you best me too it lol

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#6 ElPirana

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 08:12 AM

Regarding your question 2:

So during the spawn run (as you shoe in your picture above) I generally allow a small amount of gas exchange through micropore tape. Then after about 10 days of colonizing, I use polyfil in the tub holes to allow fresh air exchange.

A few years ago, I made similar dubtubs as what you have. I completely sealed it up, duct tape completely covering all holes and lid sealed down. After 10 days, the growth had stalled and it was only after allowing some gas exchange that the tub would finish. So after that, I changed to covering most of the holes with duct tape and covering a couple lower holes with micropore tape. I never have a tub stall in the 10 day timeframe ever since.

If you think about it, the same concept as I describe is used in other teks, such as the classic pf tek. There is often micropore tape placed over the holes in the lid to allow GE, it is never completely sealed when you want mycelium growth.

Now that I think of it, I have run into a similar problem of stalled growth when using small plastic pp5 containers with screw-on lids. When I slightly loosened the lids more (more GE) then growth would resume.

Edited by ElPirana, 02 August 2020 - 08:13 AM.


#7 roc

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 11:35 AM

During colonization just use the lid and every couple of days pop it off for a breath of air and to see how far along they are. I fill the tub right to the top with a little room for the lid to snap down.

After they colonize just swap the lid out with the upper tub and simply tape off one side say 4 - 5 inches and use it like a hinge to tilt over and mist when needed.

The tub edge sitting on the other without being sealed allows for all you need for air exchange and a flip open every couple of days gives all the FAE needed.

The tilt will direct moisture down the sides and you don't get pooling on the top of the substrate.

 

Keep it simple!



#8 armorking1

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Posted 02 August 2020 - 01:37 PM

Thanks for all the info.
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