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16qt PE tubs by Faht


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#1 fahtster

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Posted 14 November 2020 - 06:37 AM

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So this isn’t anything new, I’m just logging my tub construction and procedure for my PE tubs.. there’s a few things that I specifically haven’t seen elsewhere like the 1/16” holes and the tubs work well, so here we go!

I’m using the 16qt sterlite tubs.. got em at target for like $3. They have white lids that just click on so there’s an imperfect seal there.

The height of the tubs is perfect for PE since they tend to grow short and fat and there isn’t extra tub height to maintain conditions in.

BULK RECIPE is the normal 650gm coir to 2 qts verm to 1 gallon water bucket tek. Currently using coco bliss and I’m liking it.

I use 2 myco qts to 4 qts of CV per tub and make 3 tubs per bucket tek.. so, I use 6 qts per bucket recipe.
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Average rh in my area is 60% during my grow period

1. Start by drilling 1/16” holes all around the tub at the subs surface level (being such small holes, the bit glides right through and it’s really fast to drill a whole tub).. staggered every 2.5” or so.. I usually just eyeball it when I’m putting the sharpie points on the tub like so
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I came up with this hole configuration because I was getting back into growing PE and did some tester glad containers last year (I was also testing out a new casing strategy I’ll talk about in a bit)
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I started out by poking needle holes about every 3 inches all over the bag.. when they started to fruit, they seemed to be stalling a bit so I doubled up on the needle holes at the surface level and then they really took off
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So I wanted to replicate that in tub form and this was the design I came up with. My fruits tend to be really chunky and thick and I think this is because of the extra FAE those holes provide

Obviously clean/wash everything.. tubs etc. I’m not going to tell ya to do those things here.. you should be doing that without instruction lol

2. 30 gallon black garbage bags, when folded in half and cut are perfect for making two liners (i actually iso the liners because I don’t trust manufacturers to sterilize them.. I mean, why would they? They’re garbage bags. :lol: and it takes exactly 8 seconds). I spray water on the inside of the tub and lay the liner down.. the water keeps the bag stuck to the sides of the tub
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3. Take 1 of 2 qts and break it up and put it into a 2 gallon freezer ziplock (these I do trust to be clean—it’s for food).. I like using a bag for mixing because it mixes the CV and grains extremely well.. the other reason is that it’s really nice to be able to break up the grains further by kneading the outside of the bag and You don’t have to touch it with hands at all.
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4. Add 2 qts of CV to the bag
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5. Leaving some air in the bag, I zip it and while holding the zip side tightly, I shake the shit out of it for like a solid 30 seconds to mix.

6. Pour that out into the tub and level off.

7. Repeat steps 3 - 6 with the second qt of spawn

8. I cut off the excess bag on the short ends and the tamp down the edges of the sub.

9. I use 3” micropore tape to tape up all the 1/16” holes on the tub except for like 3 on each short side (this will come off later in the grow)
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10. Put the lid on and repeat for all the tubs and the tubs are made!
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These usually colonize in 3-5 days.. the spelt tubs I made recently colonized in 3
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I find that PE requires a thick 50/50 peat/verm (plus lime to balance the ph) to fruit large flushes without blobbing. You can either make the mix yourself or use jiffy seed starter mix that already comes premixed and ph balanced. I pasteurize the jiffy in a hot water bath on the stove.. here’s my pasteurizing procedure:

Things you’ll need:
-Gallon freezer ziplocks
-10” pot
-8” pot
-Meat thermometer
-Tall drinking glass
-Hand towel
-2.5qts or less casing material
-Large bowl

1. Hydrate the casing material in a bowl to field capacity and load into a gallon ziplock (use the high end ziplocks since they tend to be more durable— you can also fill the bag with water first to check for leaks before you put the casing material into it). You can also double bag it if you’re worried the bag might leak—this is actually recommended and the only way I do it anymore (I haven’t had any leaking problems after double bagging).. if you do use one bag and it ends up leaking in, you can still use the soaked casing material.. just let it cool and ring it out a handful at a time.. it’s still pasteurized.

2. Once in the ziplock(s), flatten it out as much as possible... It took about 6 large handfuls to get the bag full enough that it was about 1”-1.5” thick when flattened.

3. Get a 10” large pot and an 8” medium pot. Fill the 10” with just enough water so that when the flattened out bag is submerged, it sits slightly above the bottom of the pot. You don’t want to fill it with more than that because it will be harder to control keeping the bag submerged with the 8” pot

4. Lay the ziplock(s) down into the water in the 10” pot but make sure that only zip up the bag about 90% of the way so that when the small amount of water vapor that expands in the bag has somewhere to escape or the bag will start to float

5. Now put the 8” pot on top of the ziplock and fill that with enough water that it keeps the ziplock submerged in the water in the pot underneath
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I put two rolled up hand towels between the two handles on the pots to stabilize the top pot and put the thermometer between the walls of the two pots to further stabilize
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6. Put the heat to medium (5 on this stove—this may vary with your stove) and when the temp gets to about 150F, turn it down to 2.5 and it should start leveling out at 155F.. set alarm for 1.5 hours

Check every 8-10 minutes to make sure it hasn’t climbed above 160F or below 140F. Once it levels off around 155F, make small adjustments and as long as you check it often, then you shouldn’t don’t have to worry if it’s going to go too far one way or the other and over or under pasteurize.

Once done, take it out and lay it flat and unzip it some more and it should be cool and ready to use in like an hour.

For the casing, I use a method that was taught to me by an OMC member named Tedsdead and goes as follows:

Once the sub is completely colonized, I case it with jiffy @ a 1/2” (keeping it moist by lightly spraying it ~ once a day.. sometimes it’s once every other day).. once that’s colonized, i remove the micropore tape covering the 1/16” holes on the outside of the tub.. then I recase @ another 1/2” or so.. once that’s colonized, I patch until the myc tightens up and knot start to form.. once pins show up, I stop misting

A couple days before the fruits are ready and the sub starts turning blue, I bottom water by putting a 1/4 cup of water down between the liner on both long sides

These are the first tubs I did this way and only used 1.5qts of spawn
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I bumped it up to 2qts and they put out these flushes (I can’t seem to get the pics to go in block form, sorry)
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I usually just go one flush but sometimes I go for a 2nd and it works out alright
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And sometimes it doesn’t :lol
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That’s why I usually opt for tossing it and filling the tub with a new sub. When I do go for a second flush, I just saturate the surface with water via spray bottle and do that a second time the next day to rehydrate the sub.

I get anywhere from 2-3ozs dry per tub on the first flush depending on the culture

That it!

Faht
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#2 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 14 November 2020 - 11:02 AM

Great Tek Faht, thank you for sharing! Any reason this wouldn't work for APE?
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#3 fahtster

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Posted 14 November 2020 - 12:22 PM

Thanks. Ive never grown ape but I’ve seen other ppl use theses tubs with them and they looked pretty kickass.. I think any shorter fruit producing variety will do well in these.. I don’t think ape requires the peat casing like the modern PE though.

Faht
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#4 Arathu

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Posted 14 November 2020 - 01:19 PM

That's absolutely excellent Faht! 

 

Beautiful work man.........

 

A


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#5 Freaky

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Posted 14 November 2020 - 02:49 PM

Faht, excellent as always and great information.  I like the small holes drilled all around as I have always just done on short side and covered those but I think I'll give it a try in my larger sub trays your way.  I'm sure I'll see a much better outcome from the tub production.


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#6 fahtster

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Posted 15 November 2020 - 05:35 PM

3 spelt (hulled wheat) PE tubs (done with the above method) are looking like they’re about to give up the goods

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This cultures timeline says I should see knots in the next few days

Faht
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#7 fahtster

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Posted 21 November 2020 - 07:15 PM

I’ve got pins in the spelt bins.. well 1 bin so far, but it’s crazy.. every time I do a group of 3 bins like this, they all fruit staggered.. it’s like the myc knows I only have 1 dehydrator lol. Even though they’re all made at the same time and get the same care, same casing amount etc.

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Tomorrow I’ll see pins on a second one and then, more than likely pins on the last after that.. every. Damn. Time.

Faht
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#8 fahtster

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Posted 25 November 2020 - 03:49 AM

Gettin there..

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Not my favorite culture as far as speed and pin set but it is the most potent mush ive ever had.. always makes me nervous with how long it takes and when it does finally start fruiting it looks so sparse but eventually fill in.. same culture as this

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Got a few bins of these and it’s probably a bit tired (gonna try a thinner casing layer on the next ones and see if that helps with the pin set) but I’m on the hunt for a new clone or two. Got a couple bins of this ms culture near fruiting

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Figure I’ll grab a few clones of those and see how they do

Faht
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#9 fahtster

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Posted Yesterday, 11:02 PM

Other two bins are showing nice pin sets and the first tub is starting to look decent

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The next tubs come up after these are of this ms culture

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Pretty excited about those too.. gonna do some clone hunting :)

Faht




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