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Albino grows


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#81 Nicked

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 03:31 AM

Here's a few photos of some really cool Albino PF I harvested this morning. Very very fond of this strain!
de9e9cf5e1b8c131b261087b0bdcce01.jpg755125a57a14cb0c4436da4aed0f95c5.jpg
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#82 rockyfungus

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 11:36 AM

Those look crazy

So confused, looking better, they are both right near each other in a FC. Poor genetics, or bad conditions. Some have no caps.

 

blob.JPG

One almost looks APE like


Edited by rockyfungus, 10 January 2021 - 11:38 AM.

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#83 FunG

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 11:40 AM

What did you use for spawn?

#84 rockyfungus

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 11:47 AM

Agar->oats (coffee/gypsum)->straight coir



#85 Moby

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 05:53 PM

Nice PFs! 

man I love cubes for their many different looks.

________

 

Rocky on the picture thread I saw the surface of your trays bruised heavily, you told me very low rh at your home.

You can raise the room humidity by putting a tray or bucket with water in your room.

Not only the mushs will thank you, your body will too.

20 or 30% room rh sucks alot of moisture out of the sub and your body (skin, lungs and your respiratory tract) which dries the mushs and you out alot.

Very low rh like that lowers your yield and pinset.

 

The coir is not a 100% colonized, do you go straight to fruiting after bulking ?

Upper tray of the last picture in the center, one of the smaller fruits with long stem bruises at the base, looks like the infection I had on the leucistic cambos.

My room rh is between ~58-62% constantly (slightly too high), this kind of bruising and damaged mycelium is not natural and also not due to the rh in your room.

 

I tend to say pick that guy, let it not touch anything and throw out (that one fruit).

 

Nonetheless its always a pleasure to see fruits grow, nice pictures!



#86 rockyfungus

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 06:54 PM

The average RH has been 16% for this week! I was messing around with a FC, different mixing/layering of my bulk, and the dead of winter. So, my grows are awful. Had tons of overlay too. Bruising is from the terrible spray bottle I have, the droplets are huge.

 

I tried increasing my RH with this fruiting chamber with perlite in the bottom. Wondering if partly not enough FAE and just super quick evaporation without being able to replace the moisture quick enough. May even try growing in unicorn bags to keep that RH up.

I have a humidifier that takes gallons of water, forget how many square feet it covers. The humidity is so terrible here, all my fingers are cracked, my lips are always chapped, I drink 8-12 glasses of water a day.
Goal is to start automating my fruiting in the next year or so. Especially once I mess with Pans and some exotics.


Edited by rockyfungus, 10 January 2021 - 06:55 PM.


#87 rockyfungus

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Posted 11 January 2021 - 11:04 AM

AA+.JPG

AA+ with very light spores.

Is browning of stems indicative of too much standing water?


Edited by rockyfungus, 11 January 2021 - 01:27 PM.

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#88 FunG

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Posted 11 January 2021 - 02:40 PM

I think Aa+ have brownish stems right from the Gene's...they normally are in other pics of aa+ I've seen.

I could be mistaken though.
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#89 FunG

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Posted 12 January 2021 - 11:52 AM

G.w.m (albinos)

5L of wbs spawned to 8.8l of coir



Substrate is 5 days into colonizing and already looking like its reached the consolidation period.

This albino grow will be the first grow I've completed in months due to a green mold outbreak, happy that I got that sitchy under control now.

Hopefully the gwm throw out the three shades of spores (white, rustic red, purple) so I can print all 3 side by side and get a pic to solve the argument that gwm is in fact not aa+ or other albino rename but it's own cross breed.

Heres a old pic (I think I previously posted) showing the different colored spores in the gills.
20200617_115009.jpg

And my current gwm tub
20210112_075510.jpg

I've got one more set of spawn jars I'm going to use up of gwm before I mass print and tuck them away for abit.

Anyone want a print when they're done just let me know via pm
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#90 rockyfungus

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Posted 12 January 2021 - 11:55 AM

my AA+ have obvious remnants of the universal veil. I can't really discern any spots on your caps. That phenotype is drastically different from my AA+.
 


Edited by rockyfungus, 12 January 2021 - 11:56 AM.


#91 FunG

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Posted 12 January 2021 - 12:06 PM

Heres a few more pics from either 2nd flush or different grows, the reddish spores dont happen all the time with gwm , only twice I noticed them.

20200422_093707.jpg
20200503_122054.jpg
20200618_081600.jpg

Ah, the 3rd picture details the three shades of spores perfectly! That should be enough evidence to drive home the argument that they're different to any skeptics :)

Edited by FunG, 12 January 2021 - 12:09 PM.

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#92 Nicked

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Posted 13 January 2021 - 01:49 PM

@FunG that last photo you posted is really interesting! There's a mushroom with rust spores, one with normal purple spores and one Albino which is either sterile or has Albino spores. Very cool to see all of them popping from the same tub!

#93 Moby

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 12:48 PM

The average RH has been 16% for this week! I was messing around with a FC, different mixing/layering of my bulk, and the dead of winter. So, my grows are awful. Had tons of overlay too. Bruising is from the terrible spray bottle I have, the droplets are huge.

 

I tried increasing my RH with this fruiting chamber with perlite in the bottom. Wondering if partly not enough FAE and just super quick evaporation without being able to replace the moisture quick enough. May even try growing in unicorn bags to keep that RH up.

I have a humidifier that takes gallons of water, forget how many square feet it covers. The humidity is so terrible here, all my fingers are cracked, my lips are always chapped, I drink 8-12 glasses of water a day.
Goal is to start automating my fruiting in the next year or so. Especially once I mess with Pans and some exotics.

 

 

Damn 16% is unhealthy.

 

Fernweh an "old" friend also had very low rh where she lives and heats with an wood oven which makes it worse.

 

Monotubs might be the better option for you.

You can hydrate the bulk sub wetter than usual (need to test different amounts).

The cake will push the excess water up through the surface where the dry air absorbs it.

With that low room rh if you hydrate the bulk just like people do in more humid areas then you will always end up with dry cakes and lower yields.

 

I'd really aim for a bulk sub that is wet enough to drip a good amount of drops of water when you squeeze it.

Field capacity (not a single drop of water) is generally too dry for cubes and wasted yield.

I could imagine that almost maximum hydrated coir works good for your climate.

 

I know theres people whoo preach all kinds of stuff and say "anything but field capacity is BS" but I disagree with that.

Even in my climate where its relatively rainy and humid during winter, always over 50% room rh, I've grown with maximum hydrated coir for a while.

Wasn't optimal and had some dripping from the lid onto the sub but worked (in cased tubs) great.

 

I think the excess water would not be an issue where you live and goes straight into the room rh.

______________

 

Monotubs with a good hole size and positioning are like automated and regulate FAE and humidity on their own once dialed in with the room temp and rh.

The excess water from your bulk sub takes care of the rh within the tub.

Still it might be necessary to raise the room rh a bit.

 

Hope all goes well! 



#94 Moby

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 12:54 PM

That GWM indeed is interesting!

So many mutations at the same time present in a single spore print is nuts and unique.

 

I know from a german guy who has a print of those, gonna ask him what grew from his spores.

 

Definately a cool variety 



#95 rockyfungus

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 02:36 PM

Moby, some of my best tubs have come out being over field capacity, so you are on to something. Then again the only time I truly contaminated out I was on the wetter side too.

I'm starting to get to a point where I'm overwhelmed with all my projects. Most of them have been failing due to low RH, and probably improper FAE. I'm considering converting my old grow tent to a huge martha, just not sure if I want to deal with the headache, as it's a huge area to try and dial in.

Never tried a true monotub, but maybe I'll give that a shot for my current production.


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#96 Nicked

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 03:18 AM

Moby, some of my best tubs have come out being over field capacity, so you are on to something. Then again the only time I truly contaminated out I was on the wetter side too.

I'm starting to get to a point where I'm overwhelmed with all my projects. Most of them have been failing due to low RH, and probably improper FAE. I'm considering converting my old grow tent to a huge martha, just not sure if I want to deal with the headache, as it's a huge area to try and dial in.

Never tried a true monotub, but maybe I'll give that a shot for my current production.

I've gone the martha route and it was great. At first. Then it sucked. It's tricky to dial in and tricky to keep clean and contaminate free. I think the only time automated fruiting chambers are really worth it is for Pan cyans. Monotubs or dubtubs are definitely the way to go. A well made mono will require very little to no maintenance and give you great yields. Hole placement and size is very important. I use micropore tape instead of polyfill now and it works great. The biggest trick is to create air movement through pressure change within the tub. The tub design should essentilly be one 2" hole just belo the handles on the short side and then two equally spaced holes just above substrate level (substrate should be 3 to 4") on the long side. Then to create airflow you want the tub to pull air in from the top holes and push CO2 out the bottom holes. So the top holes should have one layer of micropore and the lower holes two layers to effectively create a pressure difference. Another vital piece of info is to have a small fan moving air around in your grow space 24/7. Don't point it directly at the tubs as that will dry them out. You just want airflow in the room so that it doesn't become stagnant. 


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#97 FunG

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 03:56 AM

Nicked, unmodified tubs are the way to go for p.cubensis.

Although I've got holes cutt out in the sides I'm noticing I dont even need to replace the duct tape with micropore tape.
The seran wrap cover has a bunch of pencil size holes poked into to allow for f.a.e and keep the r.h from getting to high.

It's my dream box, easy, no modding, no maintenance.

A little easier then a monotub which I see no reason for p.xubensis to require that much f.a.e unless maybe its pe/ape I've tested this slouch approach using a variety of different containers and everytime it worked out.

P.cubensis will get enough f.a.e unless its airtight.


20210114_231357.jpg 20210114_231403.jpg

#98 Nicked

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 07:40 AM

FunG. It's never a one size fits all approach. The amount of FAE that you provide your grows with will have a pretty big impact on how your mushrooms grow and what they look like. For mono's I've found modications to be very useful if not essential, especially if you want to avoid the fuzz that forms at the base of the stem. I'm also not a fan of thin spindly mushrooms searching for air and prefer to give my grows as much FAE as I can whilst not dropping the humidity too much. I find I get much nicer mushrooms as a result. I agree that you do not NEED to mod your tubs, but if you want better mushrooms then it certainly helps with both monos and dubtubs. 


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#99 rockyfungus

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 09:01 AM

Thanks for all the input. I've had a rough winter, just threw away 2 King Oyster blocks, and a Lions Mane block. I don't want to open any more of my blocks till I can figure this humidity/fae out.

Guess I'll buy a large plastic tote tonight and start modifying it.


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#100 Moby

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 01:40 PM

Same here, I do one hole on the short side at the highest possible point and two holes of the same size on the long sides at substrate level, no second layer of micropore tape on the lower level tho.

 

IMG_20210115_191843_001.jpg

 

IMG_20210115_191849_438.jpg

 

This box is 33qt and a square, still works with the same concept.

 

No fan here, not sure about that tbh, might be good for pans and sclerotia species but not necessary for cubes.

 

Something about unmodded tubs.

I've seen badass grows on shroomery with unmodded tubs and also a mate pretty much reproduced the results by using the same tek.

Definately works.

Something I noticed tho is that unmodded tubs easier contaminate, especially if you go for more than 2 flushs.

Also if you do a thicker toplayer with your bulk, that can also contam before its colonized.

The colonization produces alot of co2 which promotes contaminant growth.

 

I personally would only spawn jars that look 100% clean and without a toplayer (or only a thin layer) into unmodded tubs.

 

 

Also thought about a martha but my room rh would explode into a not manageable area and tubs dont need a weekly cleaning.

Totally agree, might get one in the future for pans. Would connect a dehydrator to the fogger to refill it with the excess room rh


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