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flowhood build


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#41 Microbe

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 01:46 PM

you cant even find em on ebay anymore (brand new Koch BioMax built to order through Zoro you bought) honorable mr bez

too many damage claims because hepa filter are destroyed by UPS FEDEX et al. Only freight shipping on a pallet is appropriate for these delicate large filters.

a32e2fea3b20c27d1adb4fd516b90ae7.jpg
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#42 bezevo

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 02:30 PM

yes   sandman the Filter it's self was was made with a frame made with particle board  ..for Packing only a single layer cobbled together card board box Shipped buy USPS  ,...... surprisingly no damage ..... on arrival .

 

here ....Deep !.......DEEP !IN...... BFE .The USPS  is faster and more Conscientious than UPS .

 

UPS  delivers to my door .....USPS dose not . i have to pick it up , no home mail delivery .

 

FedEx horrible BASTAGES ! They Deliver Your crushed package with tire track across it to your door...  Only after shipping it in a Gigantic circle threw 4 states at least three times .for two weeks..


Edited by bezevo, 12 February 2021 - 03:15 PM.

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#43 ideaman

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Posted 18 February 2021 - 10:10 PM

Posted Today, 12:39 PM

Initial resistance 0.79" WG @ 175 FPM

 

You will be using it at 100 FPM for laminar flow, so there will be a lower pressure, more like 0.45" WG @ 100 FPM

 

So you need a blower that can run 600 CFM (6 sq ft @ 100 FPM) @ 0.65" WG (0.45" for the HEPA and 0.2" for the prefilter) MINIMUM blower size. You can overshoot this by 20% or so and put a few strips of tape across the intake to dial it in.

 

 

Okay so i can go as much as 700 CFM and be fine by adjusting with additional-layers of pre-filter? 



#44 sandman

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Posted 18 February 2021 - 10:15 PM

Yes

 

Looks like a 1TDT8 on high should do you pretty much perfectly with no dialing needed

 

https://www.electric...1TDT8_specs.pdf


Edited by sandman, 18 February 2021 - 10:15 PM.


#45 ideaman

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 07:27 AM

Does anyone have a recommendation for a metal screen for the front?



#46 TVCasualty

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 08:21 AM

1/2" hardware cloth.



#47 sandman

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 08:41 AM

Galvanized: https://www.amazon.c...dp/B01K7SIV8M/ 

Stainless, needs cut https://www.amazon.c...s/dp/B08RYRTC39



#48 ideaman

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 09:15 AM

a Galvanized, Flattened Sheet  24" x 36"  looks perfect but wont i need to go a lil bigger than my filter so i have a way to fix it on? Silicone directly to the front feels uneasy to even think about. 



#49 TVCasualty

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 09:20 AM

 

Does that stuff add a measurable amount of back-pressure?

 

I didn't use that stuff on my first hood because it looked to me like it would block too much air flow vs. the hardware cloth but I didn't have a way to actually check.

 

When I built my big one I didn't bother with any screen at all but I did add some aluminum channel stock so I could close off the front for storage

 

Open/ready to use:

HEPA Filterz3.jpg

 

 

Detail of the channel I put along the sides to slide the cover into:

HEPA Filterz1a.jpg

 

I used JB Weld to attach the the channel stock to the 0.5" x 1.5" angle stock. I also had some leftover metallic blue spray paint.

 

 

The cover installed:

HEPA Filterz5a.jpg

 

That was the original cover, which was made from 1/2" MDF board that I had to sand the edges down a bit to make fit in the channel and then sealed with a coat of polyurethane.

 

Turns out there was way too much stiction in the channels so getting it on and off was a huge PITA so I ditched it and made a cover with a piece of cement backer-board for tile (HardieBacker brand) which is .42" thick so it slides in and out MUCH easier. Since it's cement-based it stays flat and won't warp over time like plywood might. I also painted it with a couple of coats of latex Kilz primer to seal it.

 

I like the cover since it also keeps dust and crap off the face in addition to protecting it, at least when it's not in use.


Edited by TVCasualty, 19 February 2021 - 09:23 AM.


#50 sandman

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 09:25 AM

All commercial horizontal hoods (FP hoods DO NOT COUNT NOT REAL COMMERCIAL HOODS THOSE ARE HOBBY HOODS!) have the expanded metal lathe stuff TV, exact same stuff.

 

 

a Galvanized, Flattened Sheet  24" x 36"  looks perfect but wont i need to go a lil bigger than my filter so i have a way to fix it on? Silicone directly to the front feels uneasy to even think about. 

 

Just depends on how you go about designing the hood and how the filter is held on. You could probable figure out a way to attach it by wedging it in between the front trim pieces that press the HEPA inwards if yur hood is designed like that. Actual size of front is 24x36 so it would fit perfect.


Edited by sandman, 19 February 2021 - 09:28 AM.

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#51 sandman

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 09:27 AM

s-l1600_13__27386.1578077970.jpg


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#52 jrh

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 11:29 AM

I need to find someone near me with a table saw (and wood working skills) and finally make one of these.

BTW, does it matter if the filter has a wood frame vs a metal frame?

Edited by jrh, 19 February 2021 - 11:31 AM.


#53 sandman

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 01:18 PM

BTW, does it matter if the filter has a wood frame vs a metal frame?

 

No, but typically the metal frame filter were twice as expensive as the wood frame ones. It doesn't apear to be the case all the time these days.

 

Most commercial hoods utilize a wood framed filter.

 

What is important is the side that has the gasket on it, that will define the way the hood needs to be designed around the filter opening.

 

If gasket is on the upstream side, the filter is pressed in from the front with strips of trim.

 

If filter is on downstream side it needs to be pressed forward somehow against some trim.

 

Or you can do it the lazy easy no leak way and just use spray foam (window type that is softer) around a larger gap all around the filter. It can still be removed with a drywall handsaw or something no big deal. Just kinda trashy looking. No leaks!


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#54 TVCasualty

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 08:12 PM

All commercial horizontal hoods (FP hoods DO NOT COUNT NOT REAL COMMERCIAL HOODS THOSE ARE HOBBY HOODS!) have the expanded metal lathe stuff TV, exact same stuff.

 

 

Now that you mention it I did notice that stuff over all the hoods in Paul's wall of flow hoods at the lab where he teaches his classes. But it doesn't come with the units he sells, which is odd now that I think about it.

 

Since I'm usually the only person working in front of mine I'll just try to stay careful and not bump it (so far so good, mostly).

 

If I ever build another one it will be considerably different than the one I have. For one thing it will be a LOT lighter. Ugh. Glad I built a dedicated cart for it, lol.


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#55 jrh

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 08:18 PM

What will make it lighter? Different materials?



#56 sandman

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 08:53 PM

Not that there would be anything wrong with plain old hardware cloth mesh stuff, I just think that the expanded metal would look cooler and neater.

 

Personally I have no guard on my hood. Probably should look into that ....

 

Dedicated cart is definitely a necessity, or even build the cart into it. 

 

Why would you make it lighter, do you move it often? Heavier has less vibration.

 

Also recommend screwing your hood to a stud somehow with an angle/corner brace. Helps with vibration a lot.


Edited by sandman, 19 February 2021 - 08:54 PM.


#57 TVCasualty

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Posted 19 February 2021 - 09:00 PM

What will make it lighter? Different materials?

 

Yes, mainly the plywood. I'd like to do a test to see how thick I'd need to make the walls so they'd hold up under the pressure if they were cardboard, or maybe thin rigid plastic panels reinforced with aluminum angle stock (those could probably be made into a collapsible/fold-up flow hood).

 

Mine is WAY overbuilt. I could probably drop it off the back of a truck and it would be fine. It does not need to be that heavy-duty. 

 

 

 

 

 

Why would you make it lighter, do you move it often? Heavier has less vibration.

 

Also recommend screwing your hood to a stud somehow with an angle/corner brace. Helps with vibration a lot.

 

I've moved it three times so far, once several states away. The cart also makes cleaning the room thoroughly a lot easier.

 

Good tip about anchoring it to reduce vibration (thanks!). I'd like to make it quieter, too. I wear ear plugs.

 

I guess a compromise might be making it easy to take apart for moving.


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#58 Microbe

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 12:34 PM

What will make it lighter? Different materials?


Yes, mainly the plywood. I'd like to do a test to see how thick I'd need to make the walls so they'd hold up under the pressure if they were cardboard, or maybe thin rigid plastic panels reinforced with aluminum angle stock (those could probably be made into a collapsible/fold-up flow hood).

Mine is WAY overbuilt. I could probably drop it off the back of a truck and it would be fine. It does not need to be that heavy-duty.



Why would you make it lighter, do you move it often? Heavier has less vibration.

Also recommend screwing your hood to a stud somehow with an angle/corner brace. Helps with vibration a lot.


I've moved it three times so far, once several states away. The cart also makes cleaning the room thoroughly a lot easier.

Good tip about anchoring it to reduce vibration (thanks!). I'd like to make it quieter, too. I wear ear plugs.

I guess a compromise might be making it easy to take apart for moving.
Not sure if you seen my last flow hood build but i added casters to mine just in case i have to move it. I wish i would have went some more industrial sized ones but it works until i hit an expansion joint on my concrete floor.

https://mycotopia.ne....0#entry1266485
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#59 TVCasualty

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Posted 21 February 2021 - 03:32 PM

Yup, mine has casters too.

 

I sized the height so that it rolls right up to a standard folding picnic table to where the bottom row of pleats is flush with the surface of the table.

 

I'm not sure if this means I don't need to put petri dishes/plates on a little shelf to ensure they're inside the laminar flow since the top of the table is right where such a shelf would be, but then I almost never use agar so it's not been an issue and everything else is tall enough to not worry about turbulence right at the table surface.

 

 

I see you built your box out of OSB and particle board (nice build by the way!). I like their lower cost, but they're even heavier than plywood so I couldn't use them or the beast I built would be too heavy for me to move into a truck by myself.


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#60 Microbe

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Posted 22 February 2021 - 05:55 AM

Yup, mine has casters too.

I sized the height so that it rolls right up to a standard folding picnic table to where the bottom row of pleats is flush with the surface of the table.

I'm not sure if this means I don't need to put petri dishes/plates on a little shelf to ensure they're inside the laminar flow since the top of the table is right where such a shelf would be, but then I almost never use agar so it's not been an issue and everything else is tall enough to not worry about turbulence right at the table surface.


I see you built your box out of OSB and particle board (nice build by the way!). I like their lower cost, but they're even heavier than plywood so I couldn't use them or the beast I built would be too heavy for me to move into a truck by myself.

I messed up and didn't compensate for something so i ended up cutting a piece of OSB for the back side that i had laying around. I used an entire quart of shellac though so its sealed up on the inside. I didn't update that thread, but i glued some fancy ceramic tile to the working surface so that it is level with my front filter retaining strip. I bet it weighs 250......probably 300 with it loaded down with all my tools and supplies.
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