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Glad to Be Here, Jumped in to My First Grow Head First Looking for Help


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#1 HawksTwelfth

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Posted 07 April 2021 - 09:11 PM

Hello All,

 

I am glad to have found a community that may be able to help me with my new hobby.

 

I am still learning the ropes but I think I got the basic rules down. 

 

Right now I am at the fruiting stage with a Monotub build with built in air fan and humidifier which I am now thinking was overkill. I had 5 1.5 Inch holes backed with polyfill tightly but the casing (coir) was drying out and i was not getting any condensation on the walls.

 

I have now recalibrated my humidifier and blocked 4 of the holes, now keeping steady condensation on walls.

 

Sadly first few few extremely small (1 Inch) and opened almost immediately as I freaked myself out a bit reading stuff about the spores ruining the cake. I had one looking good and it was right at the end of my humidifiers tube so I am hoping adjusting the moisture helps.

 

I have bumbled my way through the process and was running lower end temperatures throughout so I am not overly surprised its not kicking out behemoths right of the bat.

 

Do you guys think it was the low moisture causing the small fruits?

 

Right now I have my fan only running for 30 seconds at a time every 30 minutes to cycle air/ trigger the humidifier to run and keep the moisture levels up. 

 

There are so many different ways to go about this I am a little bit over my head at this point.

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#2 Sidestreet

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 04:42 AM

Hey HT.  That's quite a tub build!  Once you get it dialed in, it'll be a nice automated setup for you.  Good that you got moisture on the walls now.  How's the casing layer?  Is it still dried out?  If so, you may want to mist it gently until it has some moisture again.  Also, how thick is that casing?

 

Clearly you're not lazy, so just keep showing up and you'll get it down.

 

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Edited by Sidestreet, 08 April 2021 - 04:57 AM.

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#3 PJammer24

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 08:55 AM

When I first got started, I attempted the automated tub route and found that I get great results with a set and forget approach. I started with holes in my tub plugged with poly and fanned a few times a day, misting when needed. I personally think a tub setup like that is over kill for beginners and really not all that necessary with cubes despite the fact that you may be able to get some nice yields when you finally get it dialed in. The problem with having an automated tub from the get is that dialing it in can be a little difficult when you have no experience under the ole belt...

 

It is really common for people to over mist when they are starting out. This is true whether misting by hand or having it automated. Over hydration can lead to slow growth and higher contam rates.

 

What do you consider "lower temperatures"? I prefer to be fruiting at the extreme low end of acceptable temperatures. I feel that I get a denser fruit while helping to limit contamination risk... Higher temperatures, especially when you have over hydrated substrate, is a boon for competitors. A lot of the nasties you are trying to avoid will thrive at higher temps.

 

Fruiting at 65-70F will give you good results. You can go a little higher or even a little lower but that is where I am happiest. 

 

I colonize spawn at room temperature also. It may take an extra day or two to fully colonize but it lowers risk of contamination.

 

As you said, there are many ways to go about this... I subscribe to the KISS approach, Keep It Simple Sucka!


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#4 HawksTwelfth

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 01:03 PM

Hey HT.  That's quite a tub build!  Once you get it dialed in, it'll be a nice automated setup for you.  Good that you got moisture on the walls now.  How's the casing layer?  Is it still dried out?  If so, you may want to mist it gently until it has some moisture again.  Also, how thick is that casing?

 

Clearly you're not lazy, so just keep showing up and you'll get it down.

 

LOL ya go big or go home has always been my moto but here baby steps may have been more prudent. The casing layer may be a bit thick from what I am reading, close to 1-1/2 2 inches I believe, only drying out directly in front of my fan, I now have it dialed back to only run for ten second bursts every 50 minutes where it was at a 15-20 second burst before. When I mist am I still trying to do the up in the air or am i ok spraying the casing directly in this case?


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#5 PJammer24

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 01:13 PM

Typically casing layers are not needed for cubes. Some people swear by them but a lot of people get great results without using casing layers. There is some evidence that certain strains, like PE, may fruit better with a casing layer but in general cubes will do just find without.


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#6 HawksTwelfth

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 02:02 PM

When I first got started, I attempted the automated tub route and found that I get great results with a set and forget approach. I started with holes in my tub plugged with poly and fanned a few times a day, misting when needed. I personally think a tub setup like that is over kill for beginners and really not all that necessary with cubes despite the fact that you may be able to get some nice yields when you finally get it dialed in. The problem with having an automated tub from the get is that dialing it in can be a little difficult when you have no experience under the ole belt...

 

It is really common for people to over mist when they are starting out. This is true whether misting by hand or having it automated. Over hydration can lead to slow growth and higher contam rates.

 

What do you consider "lower temperatures"? I prefer to be fruiting at the extreme low end of acceptable temperatures. I feel that I get a denser fruit while helping to limit contamination risk... Higher temperatures, especially when you have over hydrated substrate, is a boon for competitors. A lot of the nasties you are trying to avoid will thrive at higher temps.

 

Fruiting at 65-70F will give you good results. You can go a little higher or even a little lower but that is where I am happiest. 

 

I colonize spawn at room temperature also. It may take an extra day or two to fully colonize but it lowers risk of contamination.

 

As you said, there are many ways to go about this... I subscribe to the KISS approach, Keep It Simple Sucka!

100% agree on the dialing in but I am usually quick learner so may have been overconfident here.

 

The room I have them in runs roughly 70-75 but that was also true during the previous phase where I read temps were supposed to be in the 80's but it seems to colonize fairly well and hearing you say you do that at room temp makes me feel a bit better.

 

KISS method works in most cases.... but its so much fun making things all high tech and such. 



#7 HawksTwelfth

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 02:03 PM

Typically casing layers are not needed for cubes. Some people swear by them but a lot of people get great results without using casing layers. There is some evidence that certain strains, like PE, may fruit better with a casing layer but in general cubes will do just find without.

using a monotub so no cube involved unless I am misunderstanding the term cube * I am a dumb ass seen all these growing cubes thought you were talking about growth medium not strain **Face palm**


Edited by HawksTwelfth, 08 April 2021 - 03:42 PM.


#8 Spacenaut3120

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 03:30 PM

 

Typically casing layers are not needed for cubes. Some people swear by them but a lot of people get great results without using casing layers. There is some evidence that certain strains, like PE, may fruit better with a casing layer but in general cubes will do just find without.

using a monotub so no cube involved unless I am misunderstanding the term cube

 

Cube is an abbreviation for Psilocybe Cubensis  :thumbs_up:


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#9 Spacenaut3120

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 03:33 PM

Hello All,

 

I am glad to have found a community that may be able to help me with my new hobby.

 

I am still learning the ropes but I think I got the basic rules down. 

 

Right now I am at the fruiting stage with a Monotub build with built in air fan and humidifier which I am now thinking was overkill. I had 5 1.5 Inch holes backed with polyfill tightly but the casing (coir) was drying out and i was not getting any condensation on the walls.

 

I have now recalibrated my humidifier and blocked 4 of the holes, now keeping steady condensation on walls.

 

Sadly first few few extremely small (1 Inch) and opened almost immediately as I freaked myself out a bit reading stuff about the spores ruining the cake. I had one looking good and it was right at the end of my humidifiers tube so I am hoping adjusting the moisture helps.

 

I have bumbled my way through the process and was running lower end temperatures throughout so I am not overly surprised its not kicking out behemoths right of the bat.

 

Do you guys think it was the low moisture causing the small fruits?

 

Right now I have my fan only running for 30 seconds at a time every 30 minutes to cycle air/ trigger the humidifier to run and keep the moisture levels up. 

 

There are so many different ways to go about this I am a little bit over my head at this point.

These don't look like cubes. They look more like Pans (Panaeolus Cyanescens). Do you know what they are?


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#10 HawksTwelfth

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 03:38 PM

 

Hello All,

 

I am glad to have found a community that may be able to help me with my new hobby.

 

I am still learning the ropes but I think I got the basic rules down. 

 

Right now I am at the fruiting stage with a Monotub build with built in air fan and humidifier which I am now thinking was overkill. I had 5 1.5 Inch holes backed with polyfill tightly but the casing (coir) was drying out and i was not getting any condensation on the walls.

 

I have now recalibrated my humidifier and blocked 4 of the holes, now keeping steady condensation on walls.

 

Sadly first few few extremely small (1 Inch) and opened almost immediately as I freaked myself out a bit reading stuff about the spores ruining the cake. I had one looking good and it was right at the end of my humidifiers tube so I am hoping adjusting the moisture helps.

 

I have bumbled my way through the process and was running lower end temperatures throughout so I am not overly surprised its not kicking out behemoths right of the bat.

 

Do you guys think it was the low moisture causing the small fruits?

 

Right now I have my fan only running for 30 seconds at a time every 30 minutes to cycle air/ trigger the humidifier to run and keep the moisture levels up. 

 

There are so many different ways to go about this I am a little bit over my head at this point.

These don't look like cubes. They look more like Pans (Panaeolus Cyanescens). Do you know what they are?

 

When I purchased the spores they were sold as Maui Platinum Cubensis Spores. I have two completely different looking mushrooms growing in here it looks like.... some open up to these fans almost immediately while others have the rounder tops i am used to seeing, for some reason it is not letting my add more pictures to this thread or I could show you.



#11 HawksTwelfth

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Posted 08 April 2021 - 08:37 PM

per some advice I got I have stopped the fan fae and closed up another polyfill hole, my mushys are coming out shriveled which would stand to reason to be lack of moisture. still stumped why it appears I have two completely different strains growing.... 



#12 Spacenaut3120

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 04:45 AM

I posted a few days ago about spores i bought labelled as pans, but turned out to be cubes.



#13 PJammer24

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 10:21 AM

 

Typically casing layers are not needed for cubes. Some people swear by them but a lot of people get great results without using casing layers. There is some evidence that certain strains, like PE, may fruit better with a casing layer but in general cubes will do just find without.

using a monotub so no cube involved unless I am misunderstanding the term cube * I am a dumb ass seen all these growing cubes thought you were talking about growth medium not strain **Face palm**

 

 

 

cube is short for cubensis


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#14 PJammer24

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 10:22 AM

per some advice I got I have stopped the fan fae and closed up another polyfill hole, my mushys are coming out shriveled which would stand to reason to be lack of moisture. still stumped why it appears I have two completely different strains growing.... 

 

 

if you are growing fro spore there are thousands or millions of different genetic combinations that can occur. with multi-spore you likely have different sub strains of the same mushroom growing in a particular tub where they could  appear differently


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#15 PJammer24

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 10:28 AM

 

When I first got started, I attempted the automated tub route and found that I get great results with a set and forget approach. I started with holes in my tub plugged with poly and fanned a few times a day, misting when needed. I personally think a tub setup like that is over kill for beginners and really not all that necessary with cubes despite the fact that you may be able to get some nice yields when you finally get it dialed in. The problem with having an automated tub from the get is that dialing it in can be a little difficult when you have no experience under the ole belt...

 

It is really common for people to over mist when they are starting out. This is true whether misting by hand or having it automated. Over hydration can lead to slow growth and higher contam rates.

 

What do you consider "lower temperatures"? I prefer to be fruiting at the extreme low end of acceptable temperatures. I feel that I get a denser fruit while helping to limit contamination risk... Higher temperatures, especially when you have over hydrated substrate, is a boon for competitors. A lot of the nasties you are trying to avoid will thrive at higher temps.

 

Fruiting at 65-70F will give you good results. You can go a little higher or even a little lower but that is where I am happiest. 

 

I colonize spawn at room temperature also. It may take an extra day or two to fully colonize but it lowers risk of contamination.

 

As you said, there are many ways to go about this... I subscribe to the KISS approach, Keep It Simple Sucka!

100% agree on the dialing in but I am usually quick learner so may have been overconfident here.

 

The room I have them in runs roughly 70-75 but that was also true during the previous phase where I read temps were supposed to be in the 80's but it seems to colonize fairly well and hearing you say you do that at room temp makes me feel a bit better.

 

KISS method works in most cases.... but its so much fun making things all high tech and such. 

 

 

 

I try to avoid being in or near the 80s during all phases of growth, including spawn colonization. The higher your temperatures the more likely you are to contaminate. At temperatures in or near 80f, you may get slightly faster growth and colonize your jars a few days faster but you also run a greater risk of contamination due to high temperatures being better suited to growth of competitors.... I do all phases of growth at room temperature and get great results...

 

Cubensis are really easy to grow. Quite often you will get better results by doing less. My temperatures range from around 65-75 depending on the season. I colonize and fruit at those temperatures. Sometimes, in the winter, I will colonize my spawn upstairs since 65 will lead to slow colonization of spawn. Substrate will colonize quickly enough when adequate spawn ratio is used at the lower end of my temperature range.

 

Whatever you read that said you should be colonizing at 80f, forget that shit. That may be the temperature that supports faster colonization but it is not the temperature that will give you the highest success rates. If you are in the 70-75 range they will germinate and colonize just fine... A lot of the old timers on here have learned that they get great results doing cubes at room temp for all phases.


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#16 Oldpunk

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 10:42 AM

Whoa. Oddly reminiscent.

My first try was very similar. Humidifier. Fan on timers. Tried to make it fully auto and was pretty proud of my Frankenstein grow tub.
About a month later I took it all apart. Almost killed my first cakes and in the end only got about 15g dried out of 2 spore syringes. All those timers and fans and mister are now on a shelf. I taped up all the holes am simply fanning 4 times a day by hand and spraying them maybe twice. With far better results.

I am going to try the automated tub again someday. But keep it simple right away and get a feel for what they like and don't. I had a 3rd spore syringe that I started after the first failure and it has gone 500% better once I took a step back and simplified things.
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#17 HawksTwelfth

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 11:35 AM

yup I think I made this to damn complicated for my own good......

 

I have now sealed up 3 of the 6 holes and fan is on 10 second spurts every hour just to keep air moving but thinking that might not even be a great idea.

 

My wife threw away the other half my spore syringe on these guys (says it was an accident  :dry: ) so looking to purchase a couple more and I think I will try a new set up, either shoe box style or just a extremely dumbed down Monotub, ill keep this guy but some of the things I have learned since building this make me question some aspects.

 

IE painting/taping the bottom, from what I have read this may stop light but that the side pinning is actually caused by microclimates forming because there is no barrier between the substrate and side walls. Apparently putting a liner in there helps prevent this where taping the bottom doesn't.

 

Any thoughts on that?

Whoa. Oddly reminiscent.

My first try was very similar. Humidifier. Fan on timers. Tried to make it fully auto and was pretty proud of my Frankenstein grow tub.
About a month later I took it all apart. Almost killed my first cakes and in the end only got about 15g dried out of 2 spore syringes. All those timers and fans and mister are now on a shelf. I taped up all the holes am simply fanning 4 times a day by hand and spraying them maybe twice. With far better results.

I am going to try the automated tub again someday. But keep it simple right away and get a feel for what they like and don't. I had a 3rd spore syringe that I started after the first failure and it has gone 500% better once I took a step back and simplified things.



#18 HawksTwelfth

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Posted 09 April 2021 - 11:37 AM

VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!

 

It is hard to sift through what is old school knowledge that works but may not be 100% correct.

 

 

When I first got started, I attempted the automated tub route and found that I get great results with a set and forget approach. I started with holes in my tub plugged with poly and fanned a few times a day, misting when needed. I personally think a tub setup like that is over kill for beginners and really not all that necessary with cubes despite the fact that you may be able to get some nice yields when you finally get it dialed in. The problem with having an automated tub from the get is that dialing it in can be a little difficult when you have no experience under the ole belt...

 

It is really common for people to over mist when they are starting out. This is true whether misting by hand or having it automated. Over hydration can lead to slow growth and higher contam rates.

 

What do you consider "lower temperatures"? I prefer to be fruiting at the extreme low end of acceptable temperatures. I feel that I get a denser fruit while helping to limit contamination risk... Higher temperatures, especially when you have over hydrated substrate, is a boon for competitors. A lot of the nasties you are trying to avoid will thrive at higher temps.

 

Fruiting at 65-70F will give you good results. You can go a little higher or even a little lower but that is where I am happiest. 

 

I colonize spawn at room temperature also. It may take an extra day or two to fully colonize but it lowers risk of contamination.

 

As you said, there are many ways to go about this... I subscribe to the KISS approach, Keep It Simple Sucka!

100% agree on the dialing in but I am usually quick learner so may have been overconfident here.

 

The room I have them in runs roughly 70-75 but that was also true during the previous phase where I read temps were supposed to be in the 80's but it seems to colonize fairly well and hearing you say you do that at room temp makes me feel a bit better.

 

KISS method works in most cases.... but its so much fun making things all high tech and such. 

 

 

 

I try to avoid being in or near the 80s during all phases of growth, including spawn colonization. The higher your temperatures the more likely you are to contaminate. At temperatures in or near 80f, you may get slightly faster growth and colonize your jars a few days faster but you also run a greater risk of contamination due to high temperatures being better suited to growth of competitors.... I do all phases of growth at room temperature and get great results...

 

Cubensis are really easy to grow. Quite often you will get better results by doing less. My temperatures range from around 65-75 depending on the season. I colonize and fruit at those temperatures. Sometimes, in the winter, I will colonize my spawn upstairs since 65 will lead to slow colonization of spawn. Substrate will colonize quickly enough when adequate spawn ratio is used at the lower end of my temperature range.

 

Whatever you read that said you should be colonizing at 80f, forget that shit. That may be the temperature that supports faster colonization but it is not the temperature that will give you the highest success rates. If you are in the 70-75 range they will germinate and colonize just fine... A lot of the old timers on here have learned that they get great results doing cubes at room temp for all phases.

 






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