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Faht‘s updated (2021) printing method


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#1 fahtster

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Posted 12 April 2021 - 12:10 AM

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Yoyoyo party peeps.. I’d like to share my current printing method. I feel that it’s about as clean as I can get. I’m not sure anyone is going to replicate it lol because at first glance it appears pretty complicated (like most of my methods I suppose) but it works great and maybe there will be parts that ppl use or gives them ideas of their own. Now... if you have a flowhood, you can skip the oven bag all together and just use the foil lined jar and use a tongs or the like to set the cap onto the foil spacer in front of the hood and be done with it.

OVERVIEW:
First off... I love oven bags and use them A LOT. They’re easy to modify and PCable. Basically, I’m sealing a foil lined (except for the bottom) 4oz jar with modified lid inside an oven bag and pc’ing that to sterilize. Then taking a cap and putting it inside the oven bag through a small gap in the opening and resealing.. then from outside the bag, I manipulate the cap inside the jar and print it to the bottom of the jar.. I use a foil spacer to keep the cap off the bottom of the jar while allowing the spores to drop past the spacer to print to the bottom so that no part of the cap comes into contact with the inside of the jar. Once the print is dropped, I flip the jar over (this is all while the bag is still sealed) to remove the cap and spacer and pull the foil out of the jar. Then I put a metal screw or tiny wire disk (really anything tiny and magnetic—that’s pc’d in the bag with the jar) into the jar with the print and screw the lid back on. Then remove from the sealed bag and let dry for at least a week
Before use.

For some of this I’m just going to have to explain without pics because I didn’t decide to make this post until after I had made some of these. Should be easy enough to follow though

ITEMS NEEDED:

- 1 x “large size” oven bag... they’re smaller than the turkey size.
- Foil - can be either regular or heavy duty
- 2 x 2” long 3/4” dia. tubing stuffed tight with polyfil
- 1 x empty syringe barrel (without the plunger) stuffed tight with polyfil
- 1 x 4oz foil lined jar and modified lid.. lid construction can be found here https://mycotopia.ne...he-test-of-time (I use blue painters tape now instead of duct.. works better.
- 1 x small (1/4”) magnetic screw or other small magnetic metal... I like to use thin wire that I coil into a tight flat coil with a pliers. Try to get a coated screw if you can because exposed metal will rust but really, it doesn’t pose a problem if there is rust... it’s just there
- Painters tape
- 4” zip ties
- little tyvek pouch for the screw/metal disk
- really strong magnets.. has to be strong enough to manipulate the screw/metal through the thickness of the glass jar with a good amount of control. I use rare earth magnets I got on Amazon

Setting Up the Printing Jar:

1. Line the clean 4oz jar with foil on the inside (not the bottom, that’s where the print goes)... I use two pieces that overlap each other and are ~1” longer than the top of the jar so there’s a good amount to fold over the threads and help keep the foil in place. You’ll have to rip the foil flap in a few places so the you can fold it over easily because it’s in half moon shape. There might be a bit of glass exposed on the very top of the rim at those tears... you can put a small piece of foil over those areas if you want or just be careful not to touch the cap to those spots when you insert it into the jar
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2. You can see there’s already the spacer in the jar and I make that by taking a 1.25” wide by 6-8” long piece of foil and fold it into a 1/2” thick strip... then I roll that around my finger and then unroll it gently into a spiral shape.
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Modifying the Oven Bag:

1. We’re going to attach the 2 poly filled tubes and syringe barrel to the oven bag. The tubing is for venting so that the bag doesn’t explode in the pc and steam can enter it. The syringe barrel is a filter that I use to inflate the bag with a fish tank bubbler. The bag is inflated so that you have room to work inside the bag and move things around after being sterilized since we deflate the bag prior to pc’ing. Cut the corners of the bottom of the oven bag off just enough so that the tubes fit through it. Use the 4” zip ties (2) to attach the tubes. I use two offset zip ties so that if there’s a gap between the clasp head and band, they close each other’s off, like so..
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Do that on both corners

2. Do the same with the syringe barrel.. you can put it anywhere near the bottom of the oven bag... make sure you have the syringe tip facing out of the oven bag... that’s where you attach the fish tank bubbler hose. (I didn’t have to go out and buy a special hose or anything.. the hose that comes with the bubbler conveniently fits snugly on the tip of the syringe barrel)
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You’ll see a picture of the bag set up shortly

That’s it! Your oven bag has been modified. Not so hard, right?

PrePC Procedure:

let me take a minute to talk about the lid.. you don’t have to use that specific lid but it’s really important that your lid has a large portion of it be FAE.. whether it be a couple layers of tyvek or synthetic filter disk. There’s going to be some water left in the jar after you extract your spore water and you need to allow that to dry quickly. You also want the print to be able to dry quickly after to take it. If you have a small filter, you risk bacteria taking over in the pooling water. The other thing you want is a self healing injection port. There’s no point in going through all this trouble with the oven bag if you’re just going to poke a hole in the tyvek and just put tape over it or something.

1. Take your foiled jar with modified lid (you won’t be able to screw the lid on, just push it down snugly so it doesn’t fall off while in the bag) and put it inside the oven bag near the back/bottom
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2. I make a little pouch with tyvek that I put the screw/metal coil into and put that into the bag with the jar (I put it on top of the lid)
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3. Fold the opening of the bag over ~1/2” and tape shut with painters tape all the way across except for 3 inches on one side (be sure to smooth out any wrinkles in the tape so there’s no air gaps).. that’s going to be where we insert the cap into the bag. The idea is to minimize as much room air from entering the sterile bag as possible. I even make sure any gaps are taped up on the end that doesn’t have the port for the cap.
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4. Get as much air out of the bag as possible so that you can fit multiple bags in the pc at a time. Now we need to seal up the cap port... I do that by rolling that spot a couple times and then folding it in on itself and then rolling a couple more times and folding it again and then put a zip tie around that “bunch”. We zip tie it so it can easily be unfolded/unrolled when we want to insert the cap into the bag
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Here’s the whole bag assembled with the jar and screw/metal coil inside
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5. Take the sealed bag and fold it into a ball. Here’s 3 printing bags made up and ready to be pc’d
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6. I use a piece of foil where I pull the corners up around the ball to try and keep water from the bottom of the pc from touching the bag... it’s ok if it does but I think the less water, the better
98E1D308-C782-4259-B9F9-507119AB920F.jpeg F4944F0B-132F-47E8-BDAA-E72F0E3F4ADF.jpeg 9791BE57-DB23-471D-A282-AB4E1365E4F3.jpeg

7. After I load them into the pc, I place a piece of foil over all three
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8. I pc them at ~18 psi for 45 minutes
After they’re cool, I take them out and let them dry. I’ve had sterilized bags sit around for weeks and used them and didn’t have problems with contamination. I store them in large ziplocks until I’m ready to use them

The Printing Procedure (this is the part I don’t have pictures for unfortunately)

1. Find a cap that’s sporelating... if you want to print a large cap from a fruit that you like it’s pheno but the cap won’t fit into a 4oz jar, simply use a iso’d sharp scissors to cut the cap down to size... works just fine. Just be sure to clean any gill bits that might be left over. Also, clean any debris off the top of the cap and any veil remnants that are on the edge of the cap. You don’t want those bits to fall onto the bottom of the jar when you’re printing.

2. Cut the stem as close to the gills as possible without disturbing the gills. You want it to sit on the spacer flat.

3. Attach the fish tank bubbler hose to the syringe barrel filter and plug the bubbler in. It’ll take between 3-5 minutes to blow the bag up enough that you can easily move the cap around in the bag.
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4. Cut the zip tie that’s holding your cap port “bunch” and unfold/unroll it. The bag will be kind of stuck together a bit there because it was bunched together during pc’ing... just pull it apart until you get to the part of bag opening that’s not taped.

5. With the gills facing up, open the cap port on the bag and put the cap inside through the 3” hole.. do this as quickly as possible. I like to push any air back out of the bag while I insert the cap to try and keep room air out of the bag

6. Once the caps inside the bag, seal the cap port back up by rolling/folding and zip tying like before.

7. Re-inflate the bag with the bubbler so that you have room to move things around inside easily.. make sure you don’t over inflate it or it’ll be hard to manipulate the jar and cap from outside.

8. Once inflated to a manageable amount, unhook the bubbler hose. Move the cap over to where the jar is or vice versa... try to keep the gills up

For pics of this next part, look at the section “after the print drops” below in reverse

9. Take the lid off the jar and flip the jar over the cap so that the foil spacer is now sitting on top of the gills of the cap.

10. Work your fingers under the cap and push it up to the bottom of the jar.. (the bag is malleable so it’s easy to do) so that the spacer is touching the bottom of the jar (remember the jar is upside down over the cap) and flip the jar back over. Now you should have the cap sitting in the spacer and the spacer is sitting in the bottom of the jar. (Also note how you can tell I cut the cap down to size with a scissors to fit the jar)
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11. Put on the lid (doesn’t have to be super tight—just so it’s on the jar) and let that sit for 8 hours while the cap prints

After the Print Has Dropped:

1. Take the lid off the jar and flip the jar upside down to remove the cap and spacer
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2. Pull the jar off the cap and spacer off to the side.
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3. With your fingers, pinch the foil and pull the jar up to remove the foil from the jar and turn the jar right side up.
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4. Take the tyvek pouch and open it.. drop the screw/metal coil into the jar and screw the lid on
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5. Cut the bag open and remove your jar with print.
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Tada!
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There ya go! Beautiful print safely inside a clean jar. Let that dry for a week before you use it to make spore syringes. Hopefully this lets any bacteria die off that may have been attached to spores etc.

When I use the jar for the first time, I do a wash of the jar with a sterile syringe... I simply inject the sterile water into the jar and swirl it around all over the inside of the jar and suck it back out and discard that water... this is to further clean any dust or what have you that may be on the jar surface.

After I inject the second sterile syringe, I take the magnets and scrape part of the print into the water and suck back up.

Here’s a shot of just how strong the magnets are...
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That screw is standing on its end against the glass on the inside of the jar and I’m about a 1/2” away from the jar

You can get pretty surgical with the strong magnets..
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Don’t forget to cut off the reusable pieces (tubing and syringe barrel) from your bag before you discard it!
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I can keep coming back to these jars to retrieve spores over and over again if I like and feel pretty good about getting a clean flush. The only time I’ve had bacterial problems is when I didn’t wait a week to use the spores (tried using them the next day) and even then I still got a flush that was plenty good enough to move onto the next gen.

Here’s a pfrs ms that I went straight to grain with one of these print jars..
B0950748-CDC3-4776-83CD-ED6E9BE2FA82.jpeg

Thanks for reading my book! Lol

Faht
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#2 EYMAIOS

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Posted 12 April 2021 - 02:57 AM

.

Ι have improvised a similar method, but simpler,

(if you do not care for an actual print to store).
I sterilize a jar (with injection port) containing broken glasses and a spacer mesh.

Put the shroom on mesh located over grasses in front of flowhood.

Let it sporulate.

Take out mesh and shroom and add sterilized water.

Seal the sterilized injection port cap.

Shake well be cause spores stick strongly to glass, (...but broken glass does the trick).
Now I have spore water ready for use.

 

This way the print never dries as in long term storage.


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#3 Sidestreet

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Posted 12 April 2021 - 04:13 AM

Both eyebrows were raised the whole time I was reading that.  :biggrin:  Faht, that's wild.  Archive material.


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#4 fahtster

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Posted 12 April 2021 - 08:46 AM

.
Ι have improvised a similar method, but simpler,
(if you do not care for an actual print to store).
I sterilize a jar (with injection port) containing broken glasses and a spacer mesh.

Put the shroom on mesh located over grasses in front of flowhood.
Let it sporulate.
Take out mesh and shroom and add sterilized water.
Seal the sterilized injection port cap.
Shake well be cause spores stick strongly to glass, (...but broken glass does the trick).
Now I have spore water ready for use.

 
This way the print never dries as in long term storage.


That was definitely my first choice for the spacer (stainless steel mesh) but I don’t have any on hand. The foil does pose a problem for really small caps. I’ll definitely be upgrading to that in the fall.

Faht
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#5 EYMAIOS

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Posted 12 April 2021 - 10:51 AM

 

.
Ι have improvised a similar method, but simpler,
(if you do not care for an actual print to store).
I sterilize a jar (with injection port) containing broken glasses and a spacer mesh.

Put the shroom on mesh located over grasses in front of flowhood.
Let it sporulate.
Take out mesh and shroom and add sterilized water.
Seal the sterilized injection port cap.
Shake well be cause spores stick strongly to glass, (...but broken glass does the trick).
Now I have spore water ready for use.

 
This way the print never dries as in long term storage.


That was definitely my first choice for the spacer (stainless steel mesh) but I don’t have any on hand. The foil does pose a problem for really small caps. I’ll definitely be upgrading to that in the fall.

Faht

 

Brother Faht,

I use a wide holes mesh from iron that you can find easily at hardware stores.

Then garbage it when rust. No expence!


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#6 fahtster

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 08:11 PM

I ordered some stainless steel woven mesh from the zon.. at first I was trying to cut out all kinds of circles and bending it and wire was shooting out left and right lol eventually I figured out that all I had to do was cut a rectangle that when I bent it in half, it fit into the bottom of the jar nicely. In the end, it was really easy...
ADD7B3A7-7C3A-4466-AC13-BB0BF048C8C8.jpeg D53BC493-518F-4731-A210-6C4248FF9FC8.jpeg

It says stainless steel but there was already a bit of rusting on the edges... so what I’m going to do is coat them with clear nail polish so I can keep reusing them.. gf just happened to have some on hand :)
6252FEE8-AC05-4641-96F6-77204DBE88C5.jpeg

Gonna be all set when I fire back up

Faht

Edited by fahtster, 05 May 2021 - 08:12 PM.

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#7 sandman

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 10:33 PM

those chinese on amazon sell a lot of bullcrap! 

 

what a great printing method my man!


Edited by sandman, 05 May 2021 - 10:34 PM.

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#8 EYMAIOS

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Posted 06 May 2021 - 04:03 AM

.

Watch out! The spores stick to the bottom as Hell.

Need broken glasses to set them free...



#9 fahtster

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Posted 29 September 2021 - 09:34 AM

So I used the SS mesh and a shroomery member suggested using a wire handle for putting the cap in and out of the jar and omg is it so much easier and faster than the method I was using. I printed a PE/RW F2 dual pigmented rust spore pheno (the white whale I was after) if I can stabilize the cap structure I’m gonna call it the rusty boob lol

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.
Watch out! The spores stick to the bottom as Hell.
Need broken glasses to set them free...

This is why I have coiled up wire in the jar so I can use a magnet from outside the jar to scrape the spores off the glass into the water

Faht

Edited by fahtster, 29 September 2021 - 09:38 AM.

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#10 bezevo

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Posted 29 September 2021 - 10:33 AM

when you first  get your  low graid stainellss mesh . put in some vinager or rinse with it after cleaning between uses 

the acid will  help pasivate the stainless so less likely to oxidize .

 

when ever i give any stainless a good scrubbing i pasivate it with distilled vinigar as last stepp in cleaning .

 

BEZ

 

 

........!.....RUSTY BOOBS ....!.... oh ya !


Edited by bezevo, 29 September 2021 - 11:40 AM.

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#11 fahtster

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Posted 14 November 2021 - 04:36 PM

Couple Nat prints.. really excited to get these.. it’s been an adventure getting these to fruit. Went print -> swab -> SS -> cakes (took 2 months to colonize and fruit) and if it wasn’t for the super aggressive nat myc, the cakes wouldn’t have finished.. should be smooth sailing from here out though
E0E30EAD-5C26-4F5D-A0FE-FCA5EFF856E4.jpeg DCE0F94F-55FE-4165-B4AD-247594F2BF4D.jpeg

Faht

Edited by fahtster, 14 November 2021 - 04:57 PM.

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