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Psilocybe Papuana


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#21 Sidestreet

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Posted 26 April 2021 - 03:48 AM

archive material


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#22 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 26 April 2021 - 11:12 AM

Thank you so much for your input Stinknot, I was hoping you'd see this. It is exciting and a bit scary to hear your report about their strength so I will proceed with caution. I'm hoping they still pack a wallop dried but fortunately the next wave of fruits is starting. I'd like to eventually test all my fruits fresh but timing it can be difficult. It is interesting that they can handle such a wide range of temperatures. First set of clones look good but I'd still like to find a lunker in the batch if possible. I increased the FAE so maybe I'll get lucky (again).

Thank you Sidestreet, that'd be an honor!
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#23 Mycorry

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Posted 27 April 2021 - 01:06 PM

Beautiful! Great work!  :thumbs_up2:

 

I have been cultivating Papuanas for a while and I absolutely love them! I was going to post a picture of my favorite grows but mycotopia isn't giving me the "upload" button in my gallery *shrug*

 

Here is a link to a post of mine in Shroomery of me giving an update on my papuana genetics. (if it is allowed)

https://www.shroomer...179542#27179542

The three major phenotypes of papuana I work with don't look like yours. The sterile one is similar to yours in the orange coloring but that's about it. 

 

It looks like you have your FAE dialed in much better than I do; those gnarly clusters along with the healthy growth is very impressive. If mine colonized that much of the casing they would just dry out and be sad.  What's your tub setup?

 

Wanna swap some prints? :D


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#24 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 27 April 2021 - 03:29 PM

Wow Mycorry, those are some beautiful grows, you are killing it! Would you be willing to share your substrate recipe? The pictures above are my first run through with this species. I did take some clones and hope to explore it further. I'm already thinking of adding coffee to my sub, Aucklandiae and "Zap" Australia seem to like it. Unfortunately, so far, I have not been able to print it. I'm hoping on the second flush to have better luck. I also have some papuana running on brown rice /pearled barley to test the mycelium for activity. It has shown some bluing where the bag has bumped into other bags so perhaps?

Thank you for taking the time to post and please continue if you'd like!

BTW, if you press the "More Reply Options" it will bring up an option to upload photos.

Cheers!

I forgot, my set up is a 150gal aquarium pump bubbling through a stone into a 1/2 gallon mason jar with H2O2 added to the water. From there, a hose goes into an empty quart and from there 2 tubes run to the tub where they split again for 4 entry points. From there, I can attach them to whatever sized tub is needed. For the first flush, a 12qt tub, I moved the bag to a 24qt for the second flush. For larger tubs, I can add two set ups if I want.

Edited by YoshiTrainer, 27 April 2021 - 03:46 PM.

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#25 Mycorry

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Posted 29 April 2021 - 04:10 PM

Thanks! of all my exotics I seem to have stumbled face first into good conditions for these.  That and they seem to love dry-ish choir casing(below average field capacity).  

 

If you do end up getting some sporulation I have found that placing the cap on foil then putting in in a small mono with misted walls to be the best. They seem to need very high RH to actually make prints, but that could just be my phenos

 

I use the same general "Pine Forest Floor" Substrate recipe that I use for most exotics. It's fancy, but ultimately unnecessary. "Then why use it?" I am not only trying to produce fruit, I am also trying to produce the same look from wild specimen. Most exotics can be top fruited from jars of colonized grain, but whenever I use primarily easy-to-access carbs as a substrate the first flush ends up wonky, malformed or (I assume) extra sensitive to abort causing factors. I assume that is from the fact that most of these species spent thousands of years naturally selecting to extract minute amount of nutrition from soil, so the burst of easy carbs can potentially be detrimental. Normally that wouldn't matter for most species or cultivators but I'm desperately trying to get a single print out of a lot of rare species so that I can begin the 10-generation domestication process.  Fancy substrate recipes are generally unnecessary, but I go the extra mile just in case it helps. 
 
Substrate Recipe: Sterilized @16psi for 1HR
Choir 30%
Straw 20%
Horse manure 25%
Conifer compost 15%  <---- recently decided to remove this and replace it with a  HWFP blend, 3x boiled and drained to remove resins. No results to show just yet
Sand 5%
Red clay 5%
Gypsum
Coffee(very light)
Water
 
Impressive pump setup! Very clever to have it start in a jar then split it up, it sounds like it lets you really dial it all in with the benefit of not having to clean out a giant moldy tub every week. I 've tried less elegant setups before and had nothing but problems, but that was a few years ago before I really started grasping the needs of mushrooms. I may be attempting something almost identical in the future, thanks for sharing :)
 
That 150 gal aquarium pump, does it have a Gallons Per Minute(GPM) rating? It's usually near the model number 

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#26 kcmoxtractor

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Posted 30 April 2021 - 01:35 PM

Are prints of this species commercially available?

Would love to do some experiments on substrate chemistry and biological efficiency.

Has anyone tried using a fermented wood mix? Woodlovers usually benefit from a biologically active substrate.

#27 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 30 April 2021 - 02:26 PM

Thank you for sharing Mycorry! Hopefully I don't curse myself but I did find this sp. easy-ish for an exotic too. It moves fast, not too picky on temps, eats a pretty wide range of materials. I'm with you on trying to provide a full spectrum of nutrition for growing exotics. I may not get them to look like wild specimens but id be happy with some healthy mushrooms.......that drop some stinken spores for me! :) Your idea about lower carb content makes sense. I've been tempted to inoculate straight to sub or possibly using RGS as spawn? A gentleman here (Hyphaenation) wrote a thread on GLCs and it had me thinking about making BLCs (bark LC). Essentially start on grain, jump to bark, use that to inoculate more bark, eventually inject sterile water, shake, suck out BLC and inject into sub.

A quick update, 1 out of 3 clones look good. Normally I'd rip the stipe in 1/2 and pluck some clean fibers from inside. With these tiny mush, that was almost humorous to try. I ended up wiping the stipe with iso and snipping a tiny piece onto agar. I made a 2nd harvest last night, not as many mush but noticeably bigger stipes and pileus. I took multiple clones and am attempting prints again. I used a smaller tupperware container with a damp piece of paper towel under the foil and misted walls. I'll vent it tonight and let them sit another 24hrs. Fingers crossed! I gave the sub a 12+ hour soak, maybe I'll get a 3rd flush? I did notice some potential funk so, maybe not?

Last photo is my FC set up, right now a 24qt gasket tub. I do add a little salt to the 2nd jar to keep mold from growing. I couldn't find CFM for the pump directly but found an answered question about CFM. 2.5L/min was the answer.

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#28 smellitstinknot

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Posted 30 April 2021 - 08:00 PM

Great updates YoshiTrainer. I'd be cloning those genetics. The species can be tricky to grow. You have some great genetics there if you're seeing fruits in just a couple weeks. My experiments typically take a couple months to fruit and I know others having had the same experience.



#29 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 30 April 2021 - 10:22 PM

Thank you Stinknot, Im doing my best to clone these guys. After giving the sub a soak, I decided to move the tub outside. Ill let Mother Nature take care of the third flush and that pink spot that is forming near the top.

#30 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 03 May 2021 - 10:07 PM

For as dainty as these mushrooms appear, the mycelium is tough! Here are two examples:

Pic 1, grain from a pint jar stalled at about 3/4 colonization and showed signs of bacteria. I eventually took the jar outside, dumped it in a food container, scraped off rhe uncolonized grains and put a vented lid on it. After recovering for a week I placed a thin layer of unpasteurized pine chips and sawdust that had been soaked in light fertilizer and drained.

Pic 2, brown rice/pearled barley that I was testing for active mycelium. This also went South because of bacteria. I took it outside, cut the top of the bag and added a handful of unpasteurized straw/small bark/Wpoo that had been soaked.

Hopefully I can use these to start some big pots.

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#31 Oldpunk

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Posted 04 May 2021 - 09:24 AM

Glad someone asked about the pump and promted the pic. I also wanted a better look at it. I'm gonna try to rig something up soon for a couple species that need more air.

How much peroxide do you put in the first jar? And how often does that need to be changed?

And then the 2nd jar has a little salt water? Or just dry salt?

Ive got a pump and tubing already and been scheming on how to hook them up. So this is wicked helpful.

Edited by Oldpunk, 04 May 2021 - 09:32 AM.


#32 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 04 May 2021 - 10:16 AM

The first jar is a 1/2 gallon and 1/2 full of water plus 50ml-ish of H2O2. I don't add more H2O2 when I refill the water in the jar. The second jar has a thin layer of salt in the bottom which gets wet on its own. It's not perfect but works and is smple to clean.
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