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How about DIY Plumbing?


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#1 FLASHINGROOSTER

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Posted 03 August 2021 - 05:48 PM

This one has me a little unsure of what to do. My fix it brain tells me to replace the damaged part as a temporary repair is just that, temporary. The issue arises when I am unsure of what the hell the part is and should I risk fucking with it?

 

So its a drain line for the washing machine hose that goes into the sewer drain line. It appears to be leaking from a crack on the bottom of the 90 where it attaches to the floor drain device. I can't tell if it is some normal drain or what but when I stick a screwdriver around the outside edge it appears to be in place with some sort of putty? cement and then a sandy putty like mixture and then I think a big black plastic drain type thing. It is a bit hard to tell as it looks like they placed yellow sealing glue all around it.

 

There are two holes there that appear natural to the device at first I thought that is where it was leaking from but after closer inspection they were symmetrical and reminded me of the drains pictures

 

Guessing I should skip trying the easy fix of trying to slap another layer of glue on after securing the top pipe. I am thinking about trying to remove the floor drain part and replace it but don't want to damage something else? The connection appears to be broken right around the 90 going into the drain. You can see the horizontal crack in the yellow glue where the pipe is broken apart. I  was hoping it was the connection spot where male and female ends meet but it is straight pipe

 

Does anyone have any advice for this one? Going to go ask the plumbing store tomorrow what they think but I am curious if anyone has any experience with this type of drain setup.

 

The connection on the floor drain seems odd to me. Like they glued a 90 down onto it, maybe I need to dissolve the glue connection slightly below the crack and it will come apart

 

sml_gallery_160704_1782_217198.jpg

 

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#2 pastyoureyes

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Posted 03 August 2021 - 06:51 PM

Is it all metal or both metal and plastic pieces?

A quick cheap fix if you dont want to replace anything would be to get it dry and put some JB weld on the cracked/leaking parts
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#3 drmcnasty

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Posted 03 August 2021 - 07:10 PM

Cut all that shit out and replace it. Plumbing is actually pretty easy. Like you said, it looks like they cemented a 90 to a drain cover. Ask for help at the hardware store and buy the right stuff. Dry fit everything up then glue it up.
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#4 Juthro

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Posted 03 August 2021 - 07:21 PM

My best advice to you is have a plumber look at what you've got, and give you your options.  I'm pretty certain what your looking at wasn't done right in the first place, and you may need to come up with a different plan if you want it done right.

 

Fix it right, and you only have to fix it once.

 

(sorry about your luck, btw, I hate plumbing problems)


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#5 Oldpunk

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Posted 03 August 2021 - 10:20 PM

I agree with Drmcnasty. Looks like a drain cover or a toilet flange. The parts would be cheap....but the tricky bitch of It is gonna be getting that floor connection opened up and clean.

Is the house really old? If so they may have been trying to adapt to the old metal sewer lines which can be a headache. That's gonna be your biggest concern .

#6 pastyoureyes

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Posted 03 August 2021 - 10:51 PM

It does almost look like a toilet flange.

#7 TVCasualty

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Posted 03 August 2021 - 11:12 PM

WTF is that yellow crap? On second thought some questions are best left unanswered.

 

What diameter is that pipe?

 

Looks like ABS pipe feeding into a toilet flange or some other kind of weird adapter if it's only a 2" (5 cm) pipe feeding into it.

 

It also kind of looks like the flange is just sitting on what might be a floor drain, like a homebrew way to hold the pipe in place over it .

 

To fix it right we need more context!

 

And make sure you tell whoever helps you at the store that it's ABS pipe so they sell you the right cement if you decide to go for it yourself. Couldn't hurt to give it a try since you can't screw up anything critical, but a real plumber would be able to tell you what your options are for fixing it right (meaning permanently and looking good, maybe even to Code!).


Edited by TVCasualty, 03 August 2021 - 11:22 PM.

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#8 pastyoureyes

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 07:31 AM

If it's all ABS it will be easy to cut all that out and start over, if it goes ABS to old lead pipe that's where it will be a bit more difficult. Also not sure how that is connected to the floor or if it even is at all.

Is that the main sewer pipe for the house?

Edited by pastyoureyes, 04 August 2021 - 07:32 AM.


#9 FLASHINGROOSTER

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 07:47 AM

Thanks for the replys guys

 

I need more context too haha, it is today's task.

 

It is a point of pride but this one might require me to bite the bullet and call a plumber. I will try the plumbing store today but if they are unsure then its probably the thing to do. They might have a better adapter for setting up the old drain. I was trying to find pictures of it on the internet but had no luck.

 

The guy who owned the house before did all his own renovations I was a little worried this was a jimmy rig. Old fella I wish he was still around to tell me what the heck he did there. I think the assessment that it was do it yourself install is correct. I would say it is old metal piping under the cement because the main drain is, it looks like old cast iron style pipes. It was built in the early 70's.  The  yellow stuff has to be glue, I was able to chip some off with my screwdriver revealing black plastic underneath it. From what I can see above ground it all appears to be plastic connections, my guess is a rig of some type to convert the old style floor drain into a washing machine drain.



#10 FLASHINGROOSTER

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 07:49 AM

I have had sewer backup come out of it before so it is definitely hooked up to the main sewer line, but it is an offshoot underground as far as I can tell. I had cut open a bit of flooring to get at it. The connection to the floor is where i don't understand it. Lets say it is a drain, can you seal those in with some sort of putty? I ran a screwdriver around the edge and it would poke down around the concrete hole. And yeah I would say its 2" standpipe setup for the washer


Edited by FLASHINGROOSTER, 04 August 2021 - 07:52 AM.


#11 FLASHINGROOSTER

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 08:55 AM

Okay I did some more digging and some things are clearer. After removing the sealing glue that they placed on the top it does look more like a drain.

 

However I still have no idea how this plastic "drain" is secured into the old floor drain

 

 

gallery_160704_1782_2596578.jpg

 

 

Inside there is a 2" pocket or so with baffles in it. Two of the four or so baffles have tiny little holes that go deeper. So those two big holes that were in the glue sort of lined up to two tiny holes in the inside of that drain. I can insert my small screwdriver into that hole and it does not stop so there is a hole behind it for sure. My guess is the glue was applied to prevent splash back up through those two small holes. The washer likely spits out more water than the drain can handle so it would have been splashing out a bit through those tiny holes. like it is now doing through the crack. It almost makes me wonder if those holes formed over time, water splashing on the inside of the yellow glue.. Hard to see but the holes is there, the water in the picture is stuck in a baffle with no hole. It was from me trying to clean that thing off. The main pipe however appears to go straight through this section and into the old drain hole. No glued shotty connection there

 

gallery_160704_1782_1722783.jpg

 

So I removed the dirty mud from around one side of this floor drain and i hit rock bottom. It looks like a 2, or 3" deep whatever the fuck it is, drain. I can see the bottom or the flange where it starts to flare out again. and that is where the screw driver bottoms out on concrete

 

gallery_160704_1782_1020858.jpg

 

And here I pulled the stand pipe to the side so we can easily see the crack. It appears to be only on one side of the pipe at the moment.

 

gallery_160704_1782_2958865.jpg

 



#12 coorsmikey

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 09:32 AM

It look like the bottom piece that you all are calling a drain cover is actually and adapter. Its hard to gauge the size from the pics but like 2.5 in ABS Street Elbow going into a 2.5" to 4" adapter. If you can clean the old elbow out then I would be an easy fix. If you have to replace the adaptor that who knows what's going to be under that.


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#13 FLASHINGROOSTER

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 11:10 AM

You got it Mikey

 

abs-3x2-bushing.jpg

 

 

After talking with the guy at the plumber store he showed me the piece and it all clicked together. And after having the confidence to break the connection apart I can see the metal inside and where it is glued down onto it. The guy recommend trying to cut and chip out the broken section inside bushing connection. I need something like 1" a plastic easy out dammit. I got my small hacksaw that will fit inside the pipe and am currently trying to carefully extract it so I don't have to fuck with the cemented down flange. It seems fine and intact to me, short of the custom holes.

 

 That abs glue sure helped confuse the issue.  He drilled a couple of holes in the sides of the reducer for what I can only assume was in order to keep the single basement drain open. Otherwise that bushing would have sealed off the old drain. It makes sense I did notice the holes were crooked, not factory thats for sure. It is a bit odd of an idea thought because they cut a hole for the sump pump and it drains into the same line. So any water in the basement would drain into the sump hole anyway. Although if my rusted up seized up sump pump worked that would be a start, so maybe let can be considered emergency drain holes



#14 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 01:30 PM

Maybe the holes were his version of a vent line that would normally run inside the wall out the top of your roof?

#15 FLASHINGROOSTER

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 04:20 PM

Vent line for like sewer gas? I am no plumbing pro but I noticed there is code to place a sewer stop, (you know that bendy thing under your sink) if you are coming off your main sewer line in say the upstairs. However I am like 90% sure this line has one underground under the concrete. The dude at the plumbing store said if there is water down there and you cant smell sewer good chance its there. The main sewer was close to bone dry when i looked down the clean out hole so it has to be, and when I opened that cover you sure can smell it then. For reference those two points are like six feet apart so you would think if there was no trap you would smell it both places. I was wondering if I should install one of those sewer stops in the abs run but with the underground one there that is up to code.

 

 

Got my supplies at around 15$ if it works should be a cheap fix. Close to eight hours of dicking around after three trips into town and not knowing what I am doing.

 

Well that one part was around 25$ but it was not needed during the job so much as after.

 

gallery_160704_1782_1255515.jpg

 

So to make things confusing they had used 1 1/4" piping on a 1 1/2" fitting. That might explain the abundance of glue, but it sure seemed like a tight connection to me.  Clearly stated on the bushing that it was a 3X1 1/2". Had to use a heat gun to get it apart cleanly, that was way slicker than trying to cut it and chisel it out. Of course now with my proper 1 1/2" fittings they were now to big and hitting the floor before making a clean connection :mad:. With that 90 you only have so much play, so I had to go back and swap some parts out, grab another bushing so I did not have to redo the 1 1/4" stand pipe and its sump pump take off and Y fitting

 

gallery_160704_1782_575268.jpg

 

Well here is my Jimmy rig. In hindsight I should have moved the pipe offset to the right side of that dryer plug to avoid any crossover. They outlet was the freaking pipe support before, they tied the stand off pipe right tight to the box with a piece of solid strand wire. Seemed like a fire hazard waiting to happen on an overflow so I moved it away from the box and added its own support.

 

gallery_160704_1782_1628602.jpg

 

The last thing I want to do is cut some 2X4's or even some more abs pipe and use them as back stops so a guy doesn't accidentally push the dryer up against that pipe and break the connection in the future


Edited by FLASHINGROOSTER, 04 August 2021 - 04:25 PM.

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#16 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 06:45 PM

It looks like you have a vent tube attached above your Y connector. I believe that is supposed to vent out of your roof or a wall to the outside? At least with sinks and toilets, there is usually a vent tube after the P trap, might not need it for wash???

Good luck!

#17 FLASHINGROOSTER

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Posted 05 August 2021 - 08:42 AM

Oh I see, yeah could be, those holes will remain a mystery to me

 

Looks like it was a success regardless. Leak and flow test passed.

 

That top open section is where the washer feeds into the drain system, I just didn't have the hose inserted in that picture. The second hose hooked up at the Y is for the sump pump. I did notice those mystery holes bubbling a little bit when running water through with a garden hose for a flow test.


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#18 drmcnasty

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 06:31 AM

Yoshi is right about that vent. You want to run that out of the house. The P trap is a water seal to prevent sewer gas from stinking up your house.
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#19 pastyoureyes

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 12:44 PM

Idk what vent you guys are talking about but to me that top part looks like where the washer drain hose hangs just like rooster said. Glad you decided to tackle it diy style.
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#20 YoshiTrainer

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 01:33 PM

If the sump pump is going into the first Y then perhaps a three way W? fitting with the sump in one leg, washer the other and vent in the middle? Possibly have fitting where the current Y is that accepts the sump and washer hoses before entering the Y? If you run with the current set up, I believe you still need a Y where your washer hose comes in and a vertical 1.25" through the roof or wall to the outside? Beside venting possible gasses, i believe it reduces any vacuum that may slow your water drainage. My worry about the current set up is any back up in the washer draining could flow into your sump line. Good luck!

BTW, not a plumber just a DIY guy.
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