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Incubator for Colonisation


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#21 rockyfungus

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Posted 29 October 2021 - 08:10 PM

Are you sure it's coir? Wood sawdust can look similar.

invitroLM.JPG

Either way if it's an all in one bag you want that whole bag colonized. LM will fruit you will know what it is.

Shiitake takes 3months to fruit? It's been a season for me and need to review my notes. Shiitake will turn white. Then you gotta wait for that whole thing to stain a nasty brown. (contam most other cases). Now spray that nasty block down with a hose and wait another 3-4 weeks?

 

Lions mane should be quick and easy.

Here's a bunch of wood projects. 

wood.JPG

 


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#22 Mizamook

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Posted 29 October 2021 - 08:34 PM

My 24 volt ultrasonic foggers came in today.  ( I got 24 volt as I could not find 12).  I connected the outputs of two 12v 1.5A hard drive power supplies in series, and it works!  Filled a gallon jar with dense humid air in a few moments.  When I puffed into the jar, the fog wetted my face just like stepping outside (I live in a mossy place that is very damp and usually grey/rainy).

 

So coupled with the computer fan and the speed control unit, and set up with the Inkbird hygrometer sensor/controller I will be able to eliminate fanning and misting.  

 

It will be fully operational by the time the rebels, oops I mean the Florida Oyster will need the FAE.  The humidity in that FC is already 96-99% but that is due to me spraying and limiting fanning.  

 

That's what I'm geeking out on today.  Requires more "engineering" and labour, but also is more fun, more custom, uses less power, and is lots cheaper than anything pre-built.  It will also be useful as a fun device for weird photo/video stuff.  



#23 Mizamook

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Posted 30 October 2021 - 12:47 AM

Good point, thanks.  I checked and this is what she specifies on the site, so I stand corrected:  "Whole Oats, hardwood pellets, beet pulp, water, straw, wheat bran, and gypsum."

 

Also I think I mis-spoke (mis-typed?) .. it is the LM substrate that looks like a moldy patch and the Shiitake is just dormant.  I've checked very carefully .. not seeing anything that remotely resembles mycelium.

 

I had no idea shiitake would take so long!!!  So many different reports on it.  She told me 2-3 weeks for colonisation.  Didn't mention fruiting though.  

 

 

 

 

Are you sure it's coir? Wood sawdust can look similar.

 

Either way if it's an all in one bag you want that whole bag colonized. LM will fruit you will know what it is.

Shiitake takes 3months to fruit? It's been a season for me and need to review my notes. Shiitake will turn white. Then you gotta wait for that whole thing to stain a nasty brown. (contam most other cases). Now spray that nasty block down with a hose and wait another 3-4 weeks?

 

Lions mane should be quick and easy.
 



#24 Mizamook

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Posted 30 October 2021 - 01:39 AM

Ah ... I see. Thank you.  I wonder if I might beg a mod to move this whole thread to the proper section!?

 

I am still feebly unsure of where things go here.  I like the complexity and organisation but I have not yet learned it (yeah, OK, I'm lost!)

No mizamook, I was referring to Heathen.
I didn't realize you (mizamook), was talking about all other edible fungi.
You asked the question in the magic mushroom section and not the All Edible, Medicinal and Other section. You'd more than likely get better help in that section than in the magic mush section. 



#25 rockyfungus

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Posted 30 October 2021 - 02:34 AM

 
You'll get it eventually!

 

 

Good point, thanks.  I checked and this is what she specifies on the site, so I stand corrected:  "Whole Oats, hardwood pellets, beet pulp, water, straw, wheat bran, and gypsum."

 

Also I think I mis-spoke (mis-typed?) .. it is the LM substrate that looks like a moldy patch and the Shiitake is just dormant.  I've checked very carefully .. not seeing anything that remotely resembles mycelium.

 

I had no idea shiitake would take so long!!!  So many different reports on it.  She told me 2-3 weeks for colonisation.  Didn't mention fruiting though.  

 

 

 

 

Are you sure it's coir? Wood sawdust can look similar.

 

Either way if it's an all in one bag you want that whole bag colonized. LM will fruit you will know what it is.

Shiitake takes 3months to fruit? It's been a season for me and need to review my notes. Shiitake will turn white. Then you gotta wait for that whole thing to stain a nasty brown. (contam most other cases). Now spray that nasty block down with a hose and wait another 3-4 weeks?

 

Lions mane should be quick and easy.
 

 

 

Pictures of the mold? Lions mane and Shiitake are very sneaky.

Lions mane likes to fruit (little white poofs or teeth). Let me see if I got any going with fruits on grain or wood. 

Shiitake is just wispy and almost moldy till you know what it is...

shiiiiii.JPG

Assuming your pretty new to this. That substrate is very different from coir. Coir is forgiving and better for magic mush and oysters (not great but will work).

Your substrate has additives making it nutritious and able to contam. Beet pulp (unusual and COOL!) and bran are additives and are suppose to increase yields. We could eliminate that and just use wood and straw and get great results and less likely to contam.

I'd not go out of your way to buy wood or anything. If we don't have clean spawn (grain with myc). You ain't going to ever eat!!!


Edited by rockyfungus, 30 October 2021 - 02:38 AM.

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#26 Arathu

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Posted 30 October 2021 - 07:54 AM

IMHO 70F will work for most people most of the time. Most of my work happens without any supplemented heat sources at all. The house will stay 66F for well over half the year and rise into the 70's over the main part of summer. Warmer substrates have more competition because of favorable conditions. Everything tends to run and grow faster which of course just makes sense from a metabolic view.

 

Tubs in tubs, trays in tubs, also barrels and other containers work well as grow environments. Bags are also really great and are pretty much self contained grow environments. Look at real historical weather data for the geographical location where your chosen species of mushrooms grows natively. It's a really good and basically obvious set of starting criteria/parameters. IME, and all other things held equal (takes discipline and built up skills to do that by the way), colonization will be determined I think mostly by the fungus itself (that is a semi educated speculation on my part as I have NOT done studies to back my mouth up with data) yet there always seems to be a strain on the agar that obviously outruns it's siblings. In choosing a strain for grain expansion and beyond from those plates it is one of the characteristics I consider among several others.

 

Now with all of that babbling I've done up above I will still always refer new folks (and the rest of everyone else too) to focus on getting a really good handle on performing PF TEK successfully and repeatedly. It teaches so many of the skills necessary to move on to different projects while also adding that protective barrier of sterilized jar. For example, we learn aseptic technique, creating substrates with correct moisture content, determining colonization, finding contamination, birthing and fruiting, humidity and moisture control, and so much more WITHOUT wasting large substrates and materials (not to mention the time and subsequent emotional distress)  Really the move to grow bags afterwards is just an expansion from there. Tub and other bulk techniques are directly related to the ability to generate CLEAN spawns. We learn that from going small and really concentrating on getting the elementary education and experiences first. 

 

I've successfully grown mushrooms from the low 50'sF to the upper 80's and I will always reiterate that I have a large compost heap. There are no actual failures but there are however some undesirable outcomes.

 

Hot and excessively wet compact substrates without air ARE BAD while cooler damp and fluffy substrates with good/proper fresh air exchange are much better. You need to understand WHY that is so. Surely that is just a generalized statement BUT it holds for most of the species we are interested in. Their lives, like ours, are balancing act and definitely a cyclical process from birth to full decay to re-birthing. We're literally learning to speak FUNGUS........ KISS (keep it simple stupid) is something I NEED to remind myself of regularly but it really is true. Over complicating the process adds unnecessary cost and complexity to the whole thing. Hip had the completely invitro PF grows which works like/as a stealthy and very discrete medicine chest in a closet with NO major growing area dedicated to anything other that "normal" life. 

 

Your horizons and the paths there are many, you're in a good place for some high quality information along the way.....   

 

Welcome to Mycotopia, the NEW Library at Alexandria.......

 

Good growing vibes to you and your fungal friends............. :meditate:

 

As a side note I bought and deeply studied (still do in fact), and applied that information through using/testing it, several of Paul Stamets books on mushrooms and fungus growing. I also have books and papers from many other authors as well. It is a lifelong pursuit for me but I am the DIRTMAKER so there's that....hahahaha.....

 

A


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#27 Mizamook

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Posted 30 October 2021 - 04:54 PM

Thank you Rockyfungus!

 

I'm inserting pics of the mould here.  These are phone photos, smallified for bandwidth, and the focus isn't quite right.  I did jack the saturation a tad so the green is as apparent in the photo as it is to my eye in real life.  Two shots for angles to express depth.

 

LM Mould 1 30Oct21.jpg LM Mould 2 30Oct21.jpg

 

My intention is to wait to confirm this is mould butit sure seems that way.  This is only in the LM bag's substrate.  Shi bag is unspoilt by anything, myc or contam.  (Kinda like the famous cheese shop being "certainly uncontaminated by cheese!")

 

I'm not sure how best to proceed here, as I've got two 1-lb bags of sterile grains with injection ports, two new syringes of LC.  Doubtful I should inject anything further into the deadbeat bags.  I could start playing with the pre-poured agar plates I got from Midwest, and then inject the other half of each syringe into the new grain bags, and hopefully by the time those colonise I have a chance of succeeding at grain to grain, and maybe my own LC.

 

Are you saying that these nutritious all in one bags are more likely to fail because the nutrition is nice for bad things too?  (My takeaway from that is that I should have injected the whole 12cc syringe into each, like I did the Florida Oyster, which is pinning today, and robustly after being kept much warmer to colonise ... the combination of 5-6cc's injection into the LM and hte Shi bags was not sufficient wiht the other factor being lower tmeps which slowed growth and allowed bad things to compete)

 

 

 

 

You'll get it eventually!

 

Pictures of the mold? Lions mane and Shiitake are very sneaky.

Lions mane likes to fruit (little white poofs or teeth). Let me see if I got any going with fruits on grain or wood. 

Shiitake is just wispy and almost moldy till you know what it is...

 

Assuming your pretty new to this. That substrate is very different from coir. Coir is forgiving and better for magic mush and oysters (not great but will work).

Your substrate has additives making it nutritious and able to contam. Beet pulp (unusual and COOL!) and bran are additives and are suppose to increase yields. We could eliminate that and just use wood and straw and get great results and less likely to contam.

I'd not go out of your way to buy wood or anything. If we don't have clean spawn (grain with myc). You ain't going to ever eat!!!

 

 



#28 Mizamook

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Posted 30 October 2021 - 05:02 PM

Thank you very much Arathu,  I appreciate this effort to clarify and educate.  I'll be re-reading and mulling over this before I ask/respond to anything other than to say I did confirm (with my Thermopen on the outsides of each, in several places) that the bags and jars I have in my heated terrarium are not exceeding (or even really getting to) 73.  The probes are in the air, and I'm backed up with the wireless therm with its alarms.

 

I wish my house was 66!  It gets that way after a few hours of fire in the wood stove.  Ironically, it's cooler in summer, as we live in Southeast Alaska, rainforest, really, and there are also giant leafy cottonwoods shading the house, preventing much solar gain.  

 

Regarding KISS, you will have to understand that I took it to heart, but then you realise with a chuckle that the next post I make will be expressing the successful automation of my setup last night ... and it's wonderfully geeky, yet, in a way, stupidly simple.  : )

 

More later; thanks again!

 

M

IMHO 70F will work for most people most of the time. Most of my work happens without any supplemented heat sources at all. The house will stay 66F for well over half the year and rise into the 70's over the main part of summer. Warmer substrates have more competition because of favorable conditions. Everything tends to run and grow faster which of course just makes sense from a metabolic view.

 

Welcome to Mycotopia, the NEW Library at Alexandria.......

 

Good growing vibes to you and your fungal friends............. :meditate:

 

As a side note I bought and deeply studied (still do in fact), and applied that information through using/testing it, several of Paul Stamets books on mushrooms and fungus growing. I also have books and papers from many other authors as well. It is a lifelong pursuit for me but I am the DIRTMAKER so there's that....hahahaha.....

 

A



#29 xXHeathenXx

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Posted 30 October 2021 - 05:03 PM

You're asking me? : ) Best I can get to this (and your other question) is 68f-80f. The "room temperature" people often quote. Higher temps supposedly can make invasive bad contam spores/bacteria thrive, so most people say "room temp" (not, apparently, acknowledging that some of us live in cooler climes with lackluster insulation). But from what I can gather, "most" p.cubensis seems happiest in mid-70's.

Shiitake and lion's mane and blue oyster "should" be happy in mid 60's.

Again, this is only what I think after searching and searching for "the definitive authority" on the subject.

What temp is best for trying to colonize bags and agar from spore?

Ty
I have a heat mat inside of the lightly covered cardboard box. I can set it to any temp I like. For PE, Burma, Columbian, I've chose a temp set of 80°. It stays at about 78.6 with the ac running. I live in Myrtle Beach SC so it's quite humid and hot still many days. So ac is most certainly a necessity where I live, so I use it hahaha
I believe after 9 days I've seen some mycelium in the Burma and pe. So I'll continue w this temp and hope it's what they all want
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#30 Mizamook

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Posted 30 October 2021 - 05:51 PM

Ty
I have a heat mat inside of the lightly covered cardboard box. I can set it to any temp I like. For PE, Burma, Columbian, I've chose a temp set of 80°. It stays at about 78.6 with the ac running. I live in Myrtle Beach SC so it's quite humid and hot still many days. So ac is most certainly a necessity where I live, so I use it hahaha
I believe after 9 days I've seen some mycelium in the Burma and pe. So I'll continue w this temp and hope it's what they all want

 

That's so wonderfully ironic.  Here (where I have to dry the firewood by the wood stove as the damp/chill wood won't season below 18-20% no matter what) I could use that warmth, and there, you are using AC so you have to warm up your grows in what is likely the actual growing conditions for them outside.  Right?  

 

Please do update as things progress .. I'm curious to get my own working knowledge of what works and what does not with respect to heating.



#31 Mizamook

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Posted 30 October 2021 - 06:26 PM

This is a photo-heavy post. 

 

Got my humidifier working nicely last night.  There is a filter on the intake now (filter material from the inside of a used water filter).  I found out that the darn Inkbird has an alarm that cannot be set to above 99%, or disabled.  This is no bueno!  So today I will eviscerate it so as not to be ascared of annoying Wifey at 3:49 a.m. (again) to have to deal with a runaway.  (in the meantime I re-calibrated it so it's sticking at around 98%).  Problem is that the tub, which has a monotub filter patch on the far end, with the Perlite, is holding the humidity TOO well, and part of the idea of this design is to add flow for air exchange.  Not a big deal .. the automation is more for at night, and during the day I have no real problem fanning now and then.  

 

Humidifier Rig Assembled testing.jpg

Humidifier Rig Installed 1.jpg

Humidifier Rig Installed 2.jpg

 

I have real pinning going on (my first ever!) on the Florida Oyster all in one bag. We believe we are seeing growth/changes each hour.  I would love to set up a timelapse but I will wait until I'm more in control before I go disturbing things.

 

Florida Oyster Pinning 1 30Oct21.jpg

 

One of the agar plates from Midwest Grow Kits came cracked.  I did not find it until later.  Interesting what is lurking in my fridge!  The small bit of fungal flesh (locally harvested yellow-foot) off to the side was just tossed in there to see what would happen.  Fun stuff.

 

Maybe Contaminated Plate.jpg

 

My first PF Tek jar attempts (from Midwest) "might" be showing some activity ... these are GT, Z-Strain, and Blue Oyster.  I see some minor things "maybe" in the two cubensis types, but almost definitely in a few of the Blue Oyster jars.  Here's one such:

 

Blue Oyster jar maybe showing signs.jpg

 

Here is another shot of the "likely contaminated" substrate of the Lion's Mane:

 

Possible contam in LM 30Oct21.jpg

 

And that's all for now, folks!

 

 

 



#32 rockyfungus

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Posted 31 October 2021 - 12:52 AM

That's mold and if you got a place outside that you can bury that. Might get some fruits (doesn't look hopeful to me). "Deadbeat" bags should be tossed too. If they show literally nothing happening after let's say 2 weeks. You could figure out hydrating the bags properly and sterilizing (this may be a lost cause though).

 

That plate is a bunch of NOPE. Toss it! you are exposing yourself to possible pathogens or just headaches down the road with contamination. 

 

Best process would be to perform the PF tek with those syringes. Try and also use the first drop onto an agar plate or inoculation loop to streak a plate. Then the rest of the syringe into a bag. 
Repeat that for each syringe. Different bag, PF jar, or plate if different cultures, obviously.

Agar will show you if the syringe is even clean to begin with. Or if it even has the myc you want. It also will quickly humble you if you are not sterile. So, may be difficult to determine if it's you learning the process or the seller.

Study up on inoculating bags. It's doable in a SAB but will make you want bigger and better things if you are doing it daily. 

Really hard to tell on your PF jar if it's myc. Probably can remove foil if you have lids with ports or w/e they sold you.

Best process is to skip anyone selling you anything. It's overpriced and they may suck at it compared to what you can do...

Best of luck. I see lots of failure with grow kits, all-in-ones, and other sold products. Magic for the masses will work for any mushroom. Not ideally but it will get you started and allow you to understand where you want to go.

That's a nice pinset on the Oyster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Edited by rockyfungus, 31 October 2021 - 12:54 AM.

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#33 Mizamook

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Posted 31 October 2021 - 04:42 PM

Thanks for this effort and input!  I'll respond inline (with colour) for ease of reference.

That's mold and if you got a place outside that you can bury that. Might get some fruits (doesn't look hopeful to me). "Deadbeat" bags should be tossed too. If they show literally nothing happening after let's say 2 weeks. You could figure out hydrating the bags properly and sterilizing (this may be a lost cause though).

 

Yep, that's what I feared.  We are rural, and have a large garden/greenhouse.  Maybe I'll toss it into the greenhouse which is basically done for the season, but it has spruce mill ends comprising the front beds ... if there is any myc in there, it "might' grow .. otherwise, well, compost has great value here! 

 

That plate is a bunch of NOPE. Toss it! you are exposing yourself to possible pathogens or just headaches down the road with contamination. 

 

You would be terrified to visit me!  My woodshed (I cut and split standing dead for firewood) is a mycologist's wet dream.  Then I bring the wood into the house.  And stack it next to my beer and wine fermenters.  I'm a grubby boi.  We'll see how clean I can get (my clean room is very clean, relatively, and behind multiple levels protecting it from the outside debris)

 

Best process would be to perform the PF tek with those syringes. Try and also use the first drop onto an agar plate or inoculation loop to streak a plate. Then the rest of the syringe into a bag. 
Repeat that for each syringe. Different bag, PF jar, or plate if different cultures, obviously.

 

I like the idea of PF/BRF Tek a LOT ... in fact I was just scooting around on the net looking up if I can use the same idea but with hardwood medium in jars for shiitake ... I do NOT want to use bags.  I think plastic waste is abhorrent, and I'm taking extreme pains to try to develop techniques that eliminate as much of it as possible.  So while re-using jars might yield less, it will waste less over time.  I bought 2 sets of 10 pre-poured agar plates, and those are the last of such.  I intend to find me a set of what ... maybe 10-20? borosilicate Petri dishes, and take care of them as I do my jars.

Agar will show you if the syringe is even clean to begin with. Or if it even has the myc you want. It also will quickly humble you if you are not sterile. So, may be difficult to determine if it's you learning the process or the seller.

Study up on inoculating bags. It's doable in a SAB but will make you want bigger and better things if you are doing it daily. 

 

I have a SAB, and I think it's OK albeit small.  I'll be getting a steriliser bulb and a handheld wand thing too.  I do not need a lot of edibles, or psych ... just some.  Like with my beermaking .. I just want enough for my daily use (we actually split a bottle at lunch for most days) and some to stash and age.  But .. I'm sure I will be humbled a-plenty by the challenges of learning/developing proper sterile technique.  I'm OK with that.

Really hard to tell on your PF jar if it's myc. Probably can remove foil if you have lids with ports or w/e they sold you. 

The jars came with foil, and four holes in the lid.  The instructions say to put the foil back on after inoculating, but loosely, with a little dome.  In future, I'll make my own filter lids.  That's EZ

Best process is to skip anyone selling you anything. It's overpriced and they may suck at it compared to what you can do... 

 

Best of luck. I see lots of failure with grow kits, all-in-ones, and other sold products. Magic for the masses will work for any mushroom. Not ideally but it will get you started and allow you to understand where you want to go.

 

I agree.  To Magic for the Masses I will attend, as instructed.  Most, if not all of what you see me doing here is "first run" stuff.  I got the all in one bags to get something going (and intent to harvest and clone, etc. from there), and sadly 2 out of three failed.  ($50+ went POOF)  I bought the Mega kit as it included the prepped jars and a tub as well as other things (some worthless, others hard to get here (I live in a place without stores!  I literally cannot go out and buy a tub and they won't be getting new jars at the grocery store until next year ... EVERYTHING I get has to be ordered online) so I figured I could re-use the tub and jars and Perlite and the lighting, etc.  And by the time these bags and jars are done, I will have learned enough to be doing my own thing. 

Right?  Right.  : )

That's a nice pinset on the Oyster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Oh boy .. that was yesterday .. look at it now!!!

 

Florida Oyster 31Oct21 1.jpg  Florida Oyster 31Oct21 2.jpg

 

 

 

 



#34 rockyfungus

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Posted 01 November 2021 - 08:42 AM

Just stay excited and check out various peoples works. See what the general commonalities on and see if there's anything that makes more sense to change based on your location, tools, space, etc. 

We are all going to be getting and producing clean spawn hopefully in a similar way. Do we expand that spawn out for more spawn or do we start moving the spawn to a substrate for "bulk".

Once you have clean spawn the possibilities are endless. Plastic use is atrocious but I don't see the harm in thrifting and finding tupperwares. They are not as clear or as easy to handle as petri dishes. At least it's reusable. Glass petris are great, but I broke a bunch. 

Those are looking like Oystahs! 

 


Edited by rockyfungus, 01 November 2021 - 08:43 AM.

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#35 bezevo

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Posted 01 November 2021 - 02:38 PM

i got  glass ..for agar cultures ... but i really liked the Idea  a few have using small clear plastic  condiment cups with clear snap on lids that can be PC treated ,, one member...

I am sorry  can't remember who  mentioned there fav fast food place would give them a stack free  . so thanks for that idea  .. wish i wish i  couldy.... give you credit .....because it's a great idea  and super thrifty  ! !....................

THE BEST KIND OF THRIFTY .!.............FREE !

 

BEZ


Edited by bezevo, 01 November 2021 - 02:39 PM.

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#36 Mizamook

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Posted 01 November 2021 - 04:11 PM

Thank you both, and excited I am, yes, especially seeing my one success so far ... these Florida Oysters are almost scary growing so fast!  Luvvin' it.

 

Florida Oysters 01Nov21 1.jpg

 

That said I think the tub is smelling a tad funny, so I might pull everything out, wipe it down with 70%, and at least rinse and peroxide the perlite.  Seems to be 99.9% humidity, which I'm trying to chill the automatic thingy down a tad .... might be too much but them oystahs love it so far.

 

The cordyceps lonely single doesn't seem to be doing much for the last couple weeks (out of the dark/warm and into the light/cool since the 17th).  Not sure what to expect with those.  I've got a nutrient broth mix and plenty of brown rice to play with, and several autoclavable cordyceps cups.  Seems like a long-term thing, this, so I should get those going soon.

  

Just stay excited and check out various peoples works. See what the general commonalities on and see if there's anything that makes more sense to change based on your location, tools, space, etc. 

We are all going to be getting and producing clean spawn hopefully in a similar way. Do we expand that spawn out for more spawn or do we start moving the spawn to a substrate for "bulk".

Once you have clean spawn the possibilities are endless. Plastic use is atrocious but I don't see the harm in thrifting and finding tupperwares. They are not as clear or as easy to handle as petri dishes. At least it's reusable. Glass petris are great, but I broke a bunch. 

Those are looking like Oystahs! 

 

 

I don't mind at all thrifty or free!  I also don't mind using/re-using plastic.  I hate throwing plastic away.  All the plastic just from stuff we get shipped here is bad.  Which is why I hem and haw so much before ordering things.  I save and re-use everything I can but there is a limit. 

 

Why don't they make re-usable autoclavable plastic Petri dishes?  If fast food PP5 containers work?  Seems every time I try to look it up I end up deciding that glass dishes are best.

 

I re-use beer and wine bottles too. Not often, but every once in a while I "lose one" to bad corking or capping or stupid slippery hands bashing them together accidents.  Despite the fact they came from the dump/recycle, it still is sad.  But if I can find a set of decent glass Petri dishes I'd take the risk and invest. 

 

How many is a good number to start with for "general noob" work?  90mm?

 

 

i got  glass ..for agar cultures ... but i really liked the Idea  a few have using small clear plastic  condiment cups with clear snap on lids that can be PC treated ,, one member...

I am sorry  can't remember who  mentioned there fav fast food place would give them a stack free  . so thanks for that idea  .. wish i wish i  couldy.... give you credit .....because it's a great idea  and super thrifty  ! !....................

THE BEST KIND OF THRIFTY .!.............FREE !

 

BEZ

 

And finally, has anyone tried to sterilise an infected all in one bag?  Why not?  (Main reason I can think of is that it's a waste of energy ... ??)

 

 



#37 TVCasualty

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Posted 01 November 2021 - 04:41 PM

 

You're asking me? : ) Best I can get to this (and your other question) is 68f-80f. The "room temperature" people often quote. Higher temps supposedly can make invasive bad contam spores/bacteria thrive, so most people say "room temp" (not, apparently, acknowledging that some of us live in cooler climes with lackluster insulation). But from what I can gather, "most" p.cubensis seems happiest in mid-70's.

Shiitake and lion's mane and blue oyster "should" be happy in mid 60's.

Again, this is only what I think after searching and searching for "the definitive authority" on the subject.
 

What temp is best for trying to colonize bags and agar from spore?

Ty
I have a heat mat inside of the lightly covered cardboard box. I can set it to any temp I like. For PE, Burma, Columbian, I've chose a temp set of 80°. It stays at about 78.6 with the ac running. I live in Myrtle Beach SC so it's quite humid and hot still many days. So ac is most certainly a necessity where I live, so I use it hahaha
I believe after 9 days I've seen some mycelium in the Burma and pe. So I'll continue w this temp and hope it's what they all want

 

 

Try incubating and fruiting at ~75 degrees. It tends to produce better quality mushrooms while lowering contam risk.


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#38 Mizamook

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Posted 01 November 2021 - 05:24 PM

I bumped up my incubator setting to 74 yesterday.  Up another notch then?

 

So these oysters, which fruiting started at 63(ish) would be better fruiting at warmer? (say, like in Florida, from whence they originated?)

 

 

 

Try incubating and fruiting at ~75 degrees. It tends to produce better quality mushrooms while lowering contam risk.

 


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#39 rockyfungus

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Posted 01 November 2021 - 05:40 PM

Oysters wouldn't mind warmer, cold won't hurt 'em. They thrive with plenty of fresh air. It's about balancing humidity and fresh air with oysters.

Look for jewelry PP cases. This may not be best link but easiest for me to find. Or even the best. "Round polypropylene jewelry case"

 

https://www.amazon.c...s/dp/B07DLWBH9B

 
that link is not working for me at all. Try searching for "benecreat 8 pack round"
IMG_7317 (2).JPG
 
couldn't find a better picture of the ones I use.

Edited by rockyfungus, 01 November 2021 - 05:46 PM.

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#40 Mizamook

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Posted 01 November 2021 - 08:35 PM

Since they are actively getting larger I needn't worry overmuch, but I did notice today that the tub (at floor level, next to a stupidly-uninsulated wall) on a properly cold day is 60F.  Might at least put a foam barrier insulating them so they can get back up to 63 or so.  

 

Curious about the plastic:  Using a scalpel with plastic leads to scratches and scars no doubt, but I assume PC'ing it will make contam germs unhappy enough?  

 

Liking the idea of the 1/4 pint wide jars.

 

Took the infected all in one bag with no Lion's mane activity downstairs to the cold.  Opened up the moldy bit and doused it with alcohol.  My plan is to bake the contents of the bag, spread out on a sheet.  Mixed, then re-hydrate to my first best guess of field capacity, put into jars with vermiculite on top, and sterilise.  These will be my first wood-based PF Tek attempt.  If fail, then not much lost.  

 

Likely do the same with the deadbeat shiitake bag.

 

I will learn LC management first, and try my hand at agar/high grading genetics and then see what happens.  

 

The PF Tek jars from the Mega kit from Midwest are definitely showing mycelial growth.

 

Got my hydrator for the oysters dialed in decently so it comes on more frequently for shorter times.  This is still keeping my RH at or near 99%, but I believe is giving it plenty of fresh air.

 

 

 

Oysters wouldn't mind warmer, cold won't hurt 'em. They thrive with plenty of fresh air. It's about balancing humidity and fresh air with oysters.

Look for jewelry PP cases. This may not be best link but easiest for me to find. Or even the best. "Round polypropylene jewelry case"

 

https://www.amazon.c...s/dp/B07DLWBH9B

 
that link is not working for me at all. Try searching for "benecreat 8 pack round"
 
 
couldn't find a better picture of the ones I use.

 






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