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The last oats TEK you will ever need


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#1 tobynutz

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Posted 30 July 2022 - 03:06 PM

Hey everyone! I have been a member here for 20 years but i have been gone for quite some time. Certain things in life have caused me to pursue this hobby once again, but this time for a more mature goal in mind. Mycotopia was my original home forum, back on the old purple pages. I remember the day that it was announced that Hippie3 had passed. Since I am now pursuing this hobby again I thought i would give back to the community in the best way that I know how, with the sharing of knowledge that will hopefully help some of you guys out there. 

 

After about a hundred pounds of mostly failed grain bags I think I have finally dialed this TEK in to where it is DEAD SIMPLE, effective, and cheap to replicate my results.

 

 

I start off with a fifty pound bag of oats from the feed store. Some of you may be wondering, "why oats?" The answer is simple. Oats are cheap(.50 cents a pound), widely available and are relatively clean in comparison to many other grains i have worked with. These are from tractor supply and cost $25 a bag.

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I like using the medium or large spawn bags for this method. I have the calculations for both sizes. If you go with the 6x5x20 spawn bags i like to run 6 bags in a presto 23 qt. If you go with the big 8x5x20 I add 50% more grain per bag and only run 4 bags at a time. This equates out to exactly the same amount of grain spawn, but you save two bags from the landfill. Both of these options will give you just enough room to do G2G transfers and still have room to mix the bags around with a little massaging. 

 

For the 6x5x20 bag you are going to use a 4 cup measuring cup(1000 ml) filled to the absolute maximum level. The oats should be about to spill over, but not so full that you spill everywhere when you pick it up. For those who like to be more precise you can weigh the grains. It comes out to just under 2 lbs(1.96 to be exact). Dump the oats into your spawn bag and add 750 ml of water(about 735 g). If you you want to add gypsum, you can but I don't find it necessary. about a tsp per bag is all i use when i have it handy, but i don't stress if i forget it. Now just stick your hand in there and get all the oats coated in water so they cook a little more evenly.

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For the 8x5x20 bags everything is multiplied by a factor of 1.5, for a total of about 3 lbs of oats per bag, and approximately 1100 ml of water. Everything here is ballpark. just get close without stressing a few grams here and there. The point of this TEK is ease of use.  

 

The next step is to fold up the bags nice and pretty, and then cook them. You DO NOT have to seal the bags or do anything special. Tuck the folds underneath, but make sure the ends ARE NOT submerged in the water otherwise the vacuum created by the loss in temperature will suck water into the bags. If you are worried about this fold the bags so the end is facing upwards along the sides of the pressure cooker for the bottom bags.

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PC for 90 min @15 PSI. Make sure to cap the bags with a plate or something to keep the bags from expanding and blocking the vent of the pressure cooker. That is probably the most important thing when transitioning to bags from jars. The bags are dirt cheap online nowadays. Back when I started they were a luxury I could not justify. Once you make the switch you will be able to fit WAY MORE grain in a single pressure cooker run, thus improving your efficiency at least two fold.

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That's all for now folks. I will do my write up on WBS soon. I am still dialing in a few things for that as well. I have a method down where i rinse, strain and cook, but I am playing with a no rinse method that seems to be working well so far. I would like to make sure it is good to go before putting the info out there and having people not get good results with it. I think the key is high quality seed, that isn't too dirty from the get go. 


Edited by tobynutz, 30 July 2022 - 05:18 PM.

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#2 jkdeth

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Posted 31 July 2022 - 10:33 AM

Great write up. I've used a few bags of those very same oats, probably will again. But the quality seems to have gone down. Just dirty and full of trash on the last bag. Still used it though.

#3 tobynutz

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Posted 31 July 2022 - 11:43 AM

Thanks

 

Mine seemed a bit dusty this round but I have not seen any ill effect from it yet, even without gypsum this run. I did a few bags of no rinse WBS and even that seemed to come out pretty good, but i used the more expensive seed this round. It was the royal wing brand from tractor supply in a purple bag at $28 for a 50 lb bag. normally i use the cheap "economy mix" from walmart and that stuff is dirty as hell. 



#4 Soliver

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Posted 11 August 2022 - 12:09 PM

TobyNutz!

 

Funny how it all comes full circle ... there's no escaping the grow cycle.

 

I've recently graduated from PF jars and popcorn to rye seed, which is freakin' expensive AF these days - jeebus!  But works like a champ, even if the prep tek is a two day process (soak, strain, simmer, pack, cook).  Top that off with having to make / create filter lids with injectable ports using RTV silicone ... it's a labor of love, but I'm also a big fan of 'easy.'

 

Just out of curiosity, what are you using to innoculate your bags?

 

Good to see the old peeps, thanks for the TEK and I believe I'll be checking out my local TS sooner than later,

 

:)

 

soliver


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#5 tobynutz

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Posted 11 August 2022 - 03:21 PM

Hey Soliver, It's great to see some of the old screen names i remember from back in the day. This tek works great, but so does the WBS tek I will be writing up. There are pros and cons to each. This is the absolute easiest, with no prep at all, but you sacrifice grain size and inoculation points that the WBS gives. 

 

Bags are the way to go. Jars are a pain to make lids for and clean, but they are more environmentally friendly than bags.  i dont even use an impulse sealer. they are garbage for the most part and never gave me a good seal on a damp bag. Now i just pinch the top and zip tie it shut. no issues at all. 

 

I inoculate the bags in a few different ways. I used to to my LC's through the side of the bag, and then tape the holes up, but now i just squirt the lc into the open bag before i seal it up in front of the flow hood. I also do a lot of G2G and agar to grain as well now. just depends on what cultures i am running.  I just started some sclerotia bags from two different strains. This will be my first time running those. I like the idea of set it and forget it. 


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#6 Soliver

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Posted 11 August 2022 - 03:55 PM

I tried WBS for an outdoor patch ... after two weeks, I could see mycelium popping up, then my fucking chickens dug and ate the entire thing in one day.  I now have some highly enlightened chickens and no fruits?  :)

 

Once I wrap up this sack of rye, I'll try oats.  A 50lb sack of industrial grass seed is now $168 where I live, which is crazy, but there ya go.

 

Do you zip tie the bag around the sack after a triple fold on the plastic, or gather the top like a garbage bag and zip it that way?  I have a pile of filter patch bags but haven't made the jump yet. 

 

I also tried agar - bought all the stuff to make my own, poured the plates, and had a pile of green mess after a week.  Clearly I need to work on my process, as I've always wanted to get into agar .. I hate the idea of buying prepped agar plates online, but maybe I should start small and work my way up.

 

I ran some sclerotia in quart jars ... damn ... musta been almost 20 years now.  Great results, but at the time I literally couldn't give 'em away, as no one knew of believed what I was holding.  I'm thinking of doing some MS sacks then making an extract from the stones - a project for down the road / winter - tossing a case of jars under the bed for 6 months and ending up with material is pretty damn sweet; bags would be even easier .. hmmm. 

 

Thanks for the data and feedback, grow on,

 

:)

 

soliver


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#7 bezevo

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Posted 12 August 2022 - 08:08 PM

For making SHIP ...Here's A   TIP !  Just the Tip ! heh ..

You do not need to spend the extra bucks for RTV silicone  .

Just use  the cheapo clear silicone from the dollar store , it will work fine for making injection ports .......you can PC it

 

. Not only that ...but the cheapo clear  silicone is actually better than RTV  ..............Because RTV  tends to get hard after a few PC runs and the cheaper  clear silicone stays flexible longer  ... .....................so Cheaper Better !

 

Now i just buy cheapo silicone pre-made 20mm SHIP / Injection ports  on Amazon  ,there like  $7 to $9 for 100 .

https://m.media-amaz...EL._SL1200_.jpg

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WARNING ! . Just my opinion ...........I am Not  a Internet Expert !  Heh !

 

BEZ !


Edited by bezevo, 12 August 2022 - 08:15 PM.


#8 tobynutz

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Posted 12 August 2022 - 10:31 PM

Soliver,, no folding on the bags. I just bunch the tops together and zip tie them as tight as i can. I have not had a problem with this method at all, even with the little cheap zip ties. 

 

agar is intimidating to me but you just have to have a flowhood. mine is home made and I still havent lost a single plate to contamination while pouring, only with poor sterile technique while transferring to the plates. I am getting better and rarely lose any now unless i get in a hurry. My buddy and I just went halfsies on a 2x4 flowhood, so I almost quadrupled my sterile work area which will be a game changer for me. 

 

the rubber injection ports he posted above are great for getting away from silicone and rtv.  just drill it and jam it in there and you're in business right away. no glue, or curing involved. 

 

I put some mexicana A to agar and they started fruiting on the agar from spore in 10 days. Ive never seen anything grow so fast. i thought it was a contam it grew so fast and then they all started pinning and fruiting on the agar. I have a feeling these are going to do well






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