64 replies to this topic

[MushLuvR]

I've used the cheap bag of WBS with the cardinal on it (used to be on the bag, I don't think it is anymore), Economy mix, used to be like 6 bucks back then, but it does have cracked corn in it, worked all the same.  My preference though is definitely the Penn Classic.  The finch seeds are awesome, mainly millet, but more expensive, probably better off just buying millet in bulk at that point.  The picture below (not mine) was hard to find, brings back memories no doubt. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Arathu]

WBS, get bulk at AGWAY.....it works well, ....at least the way I did it anyway.....simmer and drain/dry....sterilize....

 

Get your hydration down and it's on....

 

Once I started using rye I never bothered with trying anything else...it just works so I stick with it...

 

There are so many way's to get it done.....

 

Beautiful!

 

A

[YoshiTrainer]

Rye may be the best and easiest grain to use for no-prep, no fuss, no extra steps.

[Severian]

I had two (of seven) no prep jars contam- prepared as directed, using rye.

Pcd for 90 mins at 15psi.

Contam occured before inoculation- thus informing the issue was with the PC cycle.

Haven't had that issue with soak cook rinse method-

Yet ease of no prep warrants at least a few more trial runs- will increase PC time to 105 minutes next time and compare results.


Rye I'm working with is also fairly 'dirty' - while rinsing, takes three rinse/dump cycles before the water appears clean- and that includes skimming off bug carcasses as they float to top.

[YoshiTrainer]

Thank you for your update Severian! It is weird you had contam. 90min @15psi should have been enough, even for bug carcasses. :) I have some test bags sitting now that have been PCed but not inoculated, so far, so good.

[MushLuvR]

90 minutes is more than enough time for a proper sterilization, something clearly went wrong in the cycle, was the PC completely sealed and not leaking.  I've lost a few over getting stubborn and going through the cycle without fixing the problem.  Even a small drip here and there is NO bueno.  Are you saying @Severian that it contaminated before you were able to shoot it up?  I've ran almost 15 jars with the NO Prep method, None have contaminated so the technique isn't the problem.  My Milo is crazy dirty and doesn't make any difference in colonization.  I hope you get it worked out.  

Edited by MushLuvR, 22 December 2022 - 03:30 PM.

[Severian]

Possible my PC is the problem'- thx for pointing that out- I'll run some checks and see what's up

[MushLuvR]

An Old worn-out gasket that is a cheap fix can cause havoc, or just random blocks or jars don't make it and you will be left wondering what happen.  This happened fairly recently with a block (I do two fuel/bbq pellet blocks per quart of grain) and one block didn't make it, so I figured contaminated spawn and the other block is done for.... NOT the case and fruited fine.  I did the oil trick, which is a temporary fix, but believe me, it's the reason I bought a two pack of gaskets for the presto, and now I know the signs of a worn out to death gasket that lasted me a ton of cycles.... which will never get that bad ever again.  Anyway, backtrack your steps in the process, I tend to overanalyze things myself, and troubleshooting ANYTHING has its own reward.  Happy Holidays!  

[MushLuvR]

I just wanted to show that when your sterilization is on point, you can re-inoculate if needs be.  I threw another wedge in the jar since the other one was stuck to the lid.  I also shot up another LC of APE instead of the PE6 that was shooting blanks.  These two jars are the original testers on Oats.  I'll G2G the FP+ and probably the APE Too or just throw it in a small container, who knows these things.      Happy Holidays to ALL!  

 

Hard to see but the original date was 11/23 and reKNOCK of a tiny ass wedge on 12/9

 

 

 

Same here, original date 11/23 and a re-squirt 12/6

 

 

 

[Severian]

Slapped some vegetable oil on there and fixed the issue- I remember a previous cycle noticing some hissing /sputtering noises I didn't recognize and drips which I'd never noticed before so your diagnosis of 'faulty seal' seems to have fit the bill

Got new plastic lids recently- wayyy better than the metal! Ran a grain run a few days ago- one jar contaminated- but that was during g2g- and not in an unopened jar- so!

I think I'm about to be a believer here as well.

So! Much faster
Set out jars
Set out scale
Weigh out 190 g of rye , 200 g Water- blammo

[MushLuvR]

I also noticed when I changed the gasket that the cooker was just much quieter in general, still the hiss hiss from the bobber, but not "extra" noises if you will... slipping by where the gasket meets the handles.  I also tightened up all the Allen bolts while I was at it, they definitely loosen over time.  Any cooking oil will work for a temporary patch to get your work done but change the gasket out when you have a chance, you will notice how much harder it is to put the lid on.  I run a ton of cycles, so they are worth their weight in GOLD.  I'm actually running another 7-jar cycle of Milo that I just turned the heat off of, it's just TOO easy!  Awesome you figured it out, nothing worse than wondering WTF went wrong! 

[Severian]

New problem being I've no idea what kind of pressure cooker I have

[MushLuvR]

Is it an older model, might not even be a Presto (or an old school vintage one), there are many different brands.  If it's a presto, it's stamped somewhere, mine is just below the left handle.  Do you have a pic of the Cooker?  

 

 

 

[Severian]

Wow mushr you are just a wealth of information that is exactly what I need. Yeah, mine is stamped like yours with a model number- I was thinking cuz theres no mention of the brand anywhere that I was out of luck!

[MushLuvR]

When I was looking for new gaskets, I saw the stamp from the factory and wanted to make sure I was getting the right seal... All good fungus fam... we in this together!  

[Severian]

Lol turns out 'presto ' is stamped big on both handles. I looked for a brand somewhere on it all over, failed to find one and thought to myself 'what terrible branding'
More like 'what terrible powers of perception!'

[Mycol]

Just to clarify for oats only

1/4 pint is 2T oats 20ml water (I did this last night and shook them after it cooled down for a few hours in the pc Andy it looks a little wet this morning)

Quarts that mushluvr did were 1.5c oats to 180 ml or 1.75c oats to 210 ml water ?

[MushLuvR]

For Oats, I settled on 1.75 cups to 210ml of water for quarts.  You can run 2 cups, but it's a little rough shaking them when you need to spread the mycelium (still was able to do it tho').  I have a 60cc syringe with a blunt tip, I use this for the last 10ml (or 20ml for smaller jars).  I just use a standard 2 cup measuring device for the 200ml.  I used the 2 tablespoons to 20ml as suggested for the 4oz jar and worked great.  I settled on 1.5 cups for Milo, just easier to shake them, and it's a MUST for Milo.  All the Best @Mycol

 

P.S the jars may look a bit wet in the beginning, but if you shake them warm and a cold shake, should be ready in about 4-5 hours from being removed from the PC.  The condensation will go away, shaking them distributes the extra moisture evenly.  

Edited by MushLuvR, 07 January 2023 - 01:17 PM.

[Mycol]

How long did you leave them in the PC after it was done ?

[Severian]

2nd round no prep, new gasket - works great.

However one thing that seems to be the case both rounds- I fit 10 jars in my pc- 7 on the bottom, three sideways on top in a triangle- each time this has resulted in grains that have been underhydrated- to the point in a few jars of looking like I didn't add any water at all.

This has only occured with the sideways jars on top of the other ones.