

All American PC - owner advice requested.
#21
Posted 31 January 2010 - 11:05 PM

#22
Posted 01 February 2010 - 05:41 AM
Rather than using a lever or a mallet to release a stuck lid, just release all the wingnuts but one, then tighten that one down a bit.
It tilts the lid slightly & breaks the seal. :pirate:
- usagolden likes this
#23
Posted 01 February 2010 - 06:57 AM
Also, its worth it to spend the extra cash for the "sterilizer" version of AA cookers. These have a 1 before the model number and an X on the end of the model number like 1941X for the 941 and 1925X for the 925. These are made for sterilizng things. Basically the main dif is they hold a vacuum after it cools of until you flip the valve. That small difference makes a world of contamination issues.
#24
Posted 01 February 2010 - 02:13 PM
this right here is gold i tell ya! no more will i be all cleaned up with flow hood running ready to go, oh shit the lid is stuck, now i have to go out to the shop to get a mallet, screwdriver, crowbar, torch, hey look the dogs are so cute i should pet them, now im covered in dog hair piss on that smoke a bowel take another shower back to the clean room piss where is my tool oh yeah its out there with the dogs!Rather than using a lever or a mallet to release a stuck lid, just release all the wingnuts but one, then tighten that one down a bit.
It tilts the lid slightly & breaks the seal.
next time col. next time.Also, its worth it to spend the extra cash for the "sterilizer" version of AA cookers. These have a 1 before the model number and an X on the end of the model number like 1941X for the 941 and 1925X for the 925. These are made for sterilizng things. Basically the main dif is they hold a vacuum after it cools of until you flip the valve. That small difference makes a world of contamination issues.
oh and words ive always lived by(well not always), "ouch you brute! a little lube goes along way you know."
- the_other_chap likes this
#25
Posted 01 February 2010 - 02:35 PM
Make sure there's a minimal amount of lubricant for the metal-to-metal seals.
Always allow 8 minutes venting before closing your valve. This guarantees you won't have any air pockets which may cause sterilization to fail.
Most of the time, if you have a difficult time opening the lid after PC, then you are doing something wrong. Let the PC cool down for an hour before opening the vent. Then allow to cool until it's the sides are enough not to burn you.
Once, I thought my lid was stuck. I used a screwdriver, which is recommended in the PC manual. Managed to muck up some of my pretty metal, and then realized, doh!, I had not released the valve. So it was still vacuum sealed as I attempted to crack it open. No permanent damage to the unit, but it's not as pretty as it was.
I've run my AA PC maybe 20 times. Never truly had the lid stick.
I love that the sterilizers have a big pot inside themselves, so your stuff is never subjected to the heat on the outside of the PC.
#26
Posted 02 February 2010 - 01:52 PM
This is a good thread.
#27
Posted 02 February 2010 - 03:12 PM
#28
Posted 02 February 2010 - 03:47 PM
Oddly, I do. :DDoes anyone have a link for online pdf's of the user manuals for AA steam sterilizers? Will help those of us with "brand used" pc's of this type.
http://www.wafco.com/cpmanuals.html
#29
Posted 02 February 2010 - 06:36 PM
I love Topia!