28 replies to this topic

[roscoe]

well buckaroo you've had a good long time to get used to your AA. do you have any tips of your own to add?

[the_other_chap]

I'll pop one in:

Rather than using a lever or a mallet to release a stuck lid, just release all the wingnuts but one, then tighten that one down a bit.

It tilts the lid slightly & breaks the seal. :pirate:

[sandman]

NEVER EVER use any mechanical device (pliers, wrench) to tighten the wingnuts to get a good seal. This can easily damage or warp the pc sealing area or at the very least break a wingnut. The lid must seat properly with nothing but hand pressure. If it doesnt, you probably forgot to lube the lid properly. You gotta lube the lid.......If you dont lube the lid every 3 uses or so you risk damaging the seal or not getting a good seal.

Also, its worth it to spend the extra cash for the "sterilizer" version of AA cookers. These have a 1 before the model number and an X on the end of the model number like 1941X for the 941 and 1925X for the 925. These are made for sterilizng things. Basically the main dif is they hold a vacuum after it cools of until you flip the valve. That small difference makes a world of contamination issues.

[roscoe]

Rather than using a lever or a mallet to release a stuck lid, just release all the wingnuts but one, then tighten that one down a bit.

It tilts the lid slightly & breaks the seal.

this right here is gold i tell ya! no more will i be all cleaned up with flow hood running ready to go, oh shit the lid is stuck, now i have to go out to the shop to get a mallet, screwdriver, crowbar, torch, hey look the dogs are so cute i should pet them, now im covered in dog hair piss on that smoke a bowel take another shower back to the clean room piss where is my tool oh yeah its out there with the dogs!

Also, its worth it to spend the extra cash for the "sterilizer" version of AA cookers. These have a 1 before the model number and an X on the end of the model number like 1941X for the 941 and 1925X for the 925. These are made for sterilizng things. Basically the main dif is they hold a vacuum after it cools of until you flip the valve. That small difference makes a world of contamination issues.

next time col. next time.

oh and words ive always lived by(well not always), "ouch you brute! a little lube goes along way you know."

[mushmonkey]

For the All American sterilizers, my two cents.

Make sure there's a minimal amount of lubricant for the metal-to-metal seals.

Always allow 8 minutes venting before closing your valve. This guarantees you won't have any air pockets which may cause sterilization to fail.

Most of the time, if you have a difficult time opening the lid after PC, then you are doing something wrong. Let the PC cool down for an hour before opening the vent. Then allow to cool until it's the sides are enough not to burn you.

Once, I thought my lid was stuck. I used a screwdriver, which is recommended in the PC manual. Managed to muck up some of my pretty metal, and then realized, doh!, I had not released the valve. So it was still vacuum sealed as I attempted to crack it open. No permanent damage to the unit, but it's not as pretty as it was.

I've run my AA PC maybe 20 times. Never truly had the lid stick.

I love that the sterilizers have a big pot inside themselves, so your stuff is never subjected to the heat on the outside of the PC.

[Freaky]

Does anyone have a link for online pdf's of the user manuals for AA steam sterilizers? Will help those of us with "brand used" pc's of this type.

This is a good thread.

[sandman]

the sterilizer model or the PC model? I have the sterilizer model manual somewhere.

[the_other_chap]

Does anyone have a link for online pdf's of the user manuals for AA steam sterilizers? Will help those of us with "brand used" pc's of this type.

Oddly, I do. :D

http://www.wafco.com/cpmanuals.html

[Freaky]

:bow: thank you!!!!!!!


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