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Wagner Wallpaper Steamer/Cooler Pasteurizer

Started By Guest_MycoGod_* , Nov 26 2006 08:59 PM

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#1 Guest_MycoGod_*

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 08:59 PM

My Wagner Wallpaper Steamer/Cooler Pasteurizer. Thanks Mycotopia and Hippie for the idea/how to do it!

It was very easy to build and will do up to 75lbs at a time! I was able to build three of them for $250, which isn't bad considering I can now pasteurize up to 225lbs of glorious horse manure at one time! I'll detail everything about it shortly, I have to go bag up my now pasteurized and cooled poo!!
MG

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#2 Mycorama

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 09:57 PM

225 pounds of manure, impressive.

:bow:

how hot does the steamer get? is there a dial where you can set the temp?

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#3 Guest_Water_*

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 10:20 PM

Looking forward to seeing this build.

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#4 Guest_MycoGod_*

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 11:45 PM

It get's above 200F, which is way too hot. There is no dial, but by experimenting and drilling the right number of holes in the lid temp can be regulated very well. I have them down (I actually built these a while ago), to where I can literally turn it on and walk away for the duration of the pasteurizing process (2-4 hours). Well, actually I can't.....I do have to refill it every hour or so, but that's no big deal.

Onto the build......

SUPPLIES:
- Wagner Wallpaper Steamer Model 705
- A big cooler (I use 120qt coolers)
- A tube of silicone
- A rack to sit inside keeping your substrate off the bottom
- A substrate thermometer with a range up to 200F or so
- A wrench and drill with 7/8" spade buit and 5/16" reg. bit

CONSTRUCTION:

1) First off you want to remove the drain spout on the bottom end of the cooler. It should screw right off with a pair of pliers

2) Next put the end of the hose into the hole where the drain spout used to be (mine fit almost perfectly), and silicone it on the outside only

3) While the silicone is drying drill 8-10 holes in the lid to allow steam to escape. Also drill a smaller hole in the middle of the lid to mount the thermometer in

4) Set your rack inside the cooler

That's it! Once the silicone drys you're ready to go! Be advised that this should only be run in a basement/garage or outside as it puts out a lot of steam and smells quite strongly (not bad if you have good poo, although straw smells a little more). I'd also recommend dry running it once or twice to get the temps right. If it's running a little high simply drill a few more holes to allow more steam to escape.
Now you just need some poo

I have heard different ways to load your poo into the pasteurizer, but this is how I do it. Prepare your poo and load it into pillowcases or burlap sacks (I do 25lb sacks). Three 25lb sacks fits reasonably well in mine, although it runs a little better with two. Try to flatten the sacks out some so they aren't balled up tight and set them in the cooler on the rack. I put a hole in my middle sack and stick the end of the thermometer probe right into the middle for a good reading.

Okay, that should do it. It's very easy and should only take 15 minutes at the most to construct.

Also, again, this is not my invention - I am just posting how I did it! Thanks

MG

Edited by Sidestreet, 16 October 2016 - 11:32 AM.

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#5 Hippie3

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Posted 06 December 2006 - 11:18 AM

just bought one of those coolers earlier this summer at costco's
big, holds a couple hundred pounds of ice easily

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#6 dillinger

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Posted 06 December 2006 - 09:18 PM

thats pretty slick mycogod.

What is the purpose of the holes on the top....are they neccessay? edited to say, i need to stop just looking at pics and read more since you explain in the begining...anyways, could one just get a thermostat to control the temperature? that would also limit the amount of times you would have to refill and the energy you use.

If i wanted to add lime to the straw would i do a quick soak after the pasterization? The water would be cold and would also help cool it.

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#7 Pedestrian

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Posted 07 December 2006 - 05:05 AM

You should probably add the lime before you pasteurize so you dont risk the chance of introducing contams by adding anything afterwards.

That is one fat setup. Ultra simple and effective.

I want one:loveeyes:

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#8 Guest_vinz_*

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Posted 07 December 2006 - 07:08 AM

MycoGod
Former Member

lol

Edited by Sidestreet, 16 October 2016 - 11:35 AM.

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#9 Hippie3

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Posted 07 December 2006 - 09:29 AM

here is why it's former=
[link]

he's a thief

Edited by Sidestreet, 16 October 2016 - 11:35 AM.

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#10 Guest_lost_onabbey_rd_*

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Posted 07 December 2006 - 12:55 PM

probibly stole the cooler from his grandma's house after thanks giving dinner....
lost

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#11 dillinger

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Posted 07 December 2006 - 01:52 PM

probibly stole the cooler from his grandma's house after thanks giving dinner....
lost

how does this have to do with the grow log...[link]

Edited by Sidestreet, 16 October 2016 - 11:36 AM.

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#12 Hippie3

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Posted 07 December 2006 - 01:59 PM

it is relevant
because it explains why
he won't be coming back
to answer your questions.

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#13 Guest_vinz_*

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Posted 07 December 2006 - 07:07 PM

here is why it's former=
http://mycotopia.net...ad.php?p=334057

he's a thief

yup i saw that post before i saw this one. really good find hip. thanks for making the world a safer place.:bow:

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#14 dillinger

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Posted 07 December 2006 - 10:19 PM

where can one get a thermostat that has an operating range around 160.

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#15 Hippie3

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 08:09 AM

[link] ?

automotive thermostats run in that range, dunno how'd you'd hook on up tho'

Edited by Sidestreet, 16 October 2016 - 11:36 AM.

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#16 dillinger

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Expired Member
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Posted 08 December 2006 - 09:40 AM

[link] ?

automotive thermostats run in that range, dunno how'd you'd hook on up tho'

thats why i asked such a seemingly easy question...i couldn't find one i could hook up eitherw. No worries, internet searching is half the fun :).

Edited by Sidestreet, 16 October 2016 - 11:37 AM.

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#17 llamabox

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 09:56 AM

Try searching for an Aquastat, or a strap on water heater thermostat.

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#18 llamabox

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 12:22 PM

I'm not one to ask for wiring diagrams. But if you find someone who can do it, here are some other temperature control kits and modules.

[link]

Edited by Sidestreet, 16 October 2016 - 11:38 AM.

CatsAndBats likes this

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#19 dillinger

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Expired Member
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Posted 08 December 2006 - 03:03 PM

Thanks Llamabox, just ordered 3 of them. According to what the guy said, you just add your power source and you are ready to go, i am going to seal the circuitboard in a pexiglass container attached to the outside of the container, i need to find a way to have the sensor on the inside and sealed. I assume i don't really need to put the thermostat sensor in the middle since this isn't a huge phase ii pasterization tunnel that has meters of substrate. i can just mount it on the inside wall. At anyrate, i have a meat thermometer with a cable also use to monitor to make sure it works right.

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#20 dillinger

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Expired Member
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Posted 14 December 2006 - 12:16 AM

just finished soldering a couple of those kits...they are easy as hell to assemble. Tomorrow i am making them a pexiglass box. With any luck, i can grab a couple of those coolers on the weekend. I just received 3 of those wagners for $28 a peice. The coolers are on sale for 33 right now. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks i can have a working one with a thermostat? I figure with three going, i can get several huge logs of oysters going each day. each one will make me at least $40 from the first flush alone, after all costs.