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Wagner Wallpaper Steamer/Cooler Pasteurizer


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#61 golly

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Posted 02 March 2006 - 07:38 AM

The theory is that an over pasteurized or sterilized substrate has less resistance to mold attack..so most likely some spores got in at spawning..
I would keep the temp below 75F, provide some air exchange and spray lightly with H2o2 every 12hrs till it subsides ...u can proly save the trays but may take a few days...

#62 Hippie3

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Posted 02 March 2006 - 09:38 AM

drill those holes in the lid, too
everything has its' purpose
ignore at own peril

#63 Hippie3

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Posted 02 March 2006 - 09:43 AM

A_S
i merged in your older, related threads
to tell the whole story

archive material

#64 bluehelix

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Posted 02 March 2006 - 12:55 PM

Yeah, I keep my incubation temperature at 75F for cubes. Once the incubation of the casing is over and you start your fresh air exchanges (passively with holes in the chamber or otherwise via air pumps) the mycelium stops vegetative growth and the self-heating goes way down. Then, an only then, should you start to heat (if required) to fruiting temps.

#65 Hippie3

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Posted 03 March 2006 - 09:07 AM

i'd say it was a bit too warm and not enough fresh air exchange,
but it's interesting to speculate if the pasteurization might have
been too hot.

#66 altered_states

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Posted 05 March 2006 - 08:52 PM

My friend's apartment is ridiculously hot; his thermostat doesn't exactly work.
I've been keeping track of the air temperature in two different parts of his apartment.

It's always 74-81F... Usually right around 78F.
And I didn't give the tubs as much air as they needed.

The cooler that I've been using for pasteurization allows plenty of steam to escape from around the edges of the lid, especially now that it's slightly melted and deformed from use.
But...
When I saw that the thermometer stopped rising at 130F and stayed there for about 20 minutes, I proceeded to plug the holes, and later to duct-tape around the lid, in hopes of raising the temperature high enough for pasteurization.

It wasn't until the next day, before spawning, that I boil-tested the meat thermometer and discovered that it didn't work.

I'm buying one of those Pyrex oven thermometers with retractable probe and digital readout this time... Should be perfect for getting an accurate reading for the the middle of the substrate in this type of steamer setup.

Thanks for the insight, everyone; I'll keep you guys posted on the cobweb battle.

Peace,
AS

#67 Guest_MycoGod_*

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 08:59 PM

My Wagner Wallpaper Steamer/Cooler Pasteurizer. Thanks Mycotopia and Hippie for the idea/how to do it!
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It was very easy to build and will do up to 75lbs at a time! I was able to build three of them for $250, which isn't bad considering I can now pasteurize up to 225lbs of glorious horse manure at one time! I'll detail everything about it shortly, I have to go bag up my now pasteurized and cooled poo!!
MG

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#68 Mycorama

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 09:57 PM

225 pounds of manure, impressive.


:bow:

how hot does the steamer get? is there a dial where you can set the temp?

#69 Guest_Water_*

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 10:20 PM

Looking forward to seeing this build.

#70 Guest_MycoGod_*

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 11:45 PM

It get's above 200F, which is way too hot. There is no dial, but by experimenting and drilling the right number of holes in the lid temp can be regulated very well. I have them down (I actually built these a while ago), to where I can literally turn it on and walk away for the duration of the pasteurizing process (2-4 hours). Well, actually I can't.....I do have to refill it every hour or so, but that's no big deal.
Onto the build......
SUPPLIES:
- Wagner Wallpaper Steamer Model 705
- A big cooler (I use 120qt coolers)
- A tube of silicone
- A rack to sit inside keeping your substrate off the bottom
- A substrate thermometer with a range up to 200F or so
- A wrench and drill with 7/8" spade buit and 5/16" reg. bit
CONSTRUCTION:
1) First off you want to remove the drain spout on the bottom end of the cooler. It should screw right off with a pair of pliers
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2) Next put the end of the hose into the hole where the drain spout used to be (mine fit almost perfectly), and silicone it on the outside only
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3) While the silicone is drying drill 8-10 holes in the lid to allow steam to escape. Also drill a smaller hole in the middle of the lid to mount the thermometer in
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4) Set your rack inside the cooler
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That's it! Once the silicone drys you're ready to go! Be advised that this should only be run in a basement/garage or outside as it puts out a lot of steam and smells quite strongly (not bad if you have good poo, although straw smells a little more). I'd also recommend dry running it once or twice to get the temps right. If it's running a little high simply drill a few more holes to allow more steam to escape.
Now you just need some poo
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I have heard different ways to load your poo into the pasteurizer, but this is how I do it. Prepare your poo and load it into pillowcases or burlap sacks (I do 25lb sacks). Three 25lb sacks fits reasonably well in mine, although it runs a little better with two. Try to flatten the sacks out some so they aren't balled up tight and set them in the cooler on the rack. I put a hole in my middle sack and stick the end of the thermometer probe right into the middle for a good reading.
Okay, that should do it. It's very easy and should only take 15 minutes at the most to construct.
Also, again, this is not my invention - I am just posting how I did it! Thanks
MG

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#71 Hippie3

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Posted 06 December 2006 - 11:18 AM

:cool:
just bought one of those coolers earlier this summer at costco's
big, holds a couple hundred pounds of ice easily




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