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Simple Guide To Construct A Fully Automated Greenhouse.

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#21 Guest_mycobsession_*

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 08:12 PM

Back pressure failure is only something i've read about and havent experienced myself...people generaly avoid back pressure by making a loose connection such as just duct taping the hose to the appliance...drilling small holes near base connection achieves this same loose connection type principle, however much more solid , rigid , and cleaner than duct tape.

The reason I asked is because I am experiencing a problem with my humidifier that might be related to that. When I first started my new system dry, it got the RH up pretty fast. But now that there is water in my lines, the humidifier is far less efficient in getting the humidity levels up and I have to supplement with a hand sprayer.

I took a completely different approach then you and Lazlo however, building a base under the greenhouse to house the humidifier and piping up through the bottom of the greenhouse. This allows me to not have to punch a hole through the side of the tent. I also have pictures, if you like.

#22 Helltick



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Posted 28 December 2006 - 08:40 PM

Love different approach's...please post your pic.

#23 Guest_mycobsession_*

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 09:21 PM

Love different approach's...please post your pic.

Pictures ....

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  • Erngii Grow.jpg
  • Agrocybe Grow.jpg
  • Ostreatus Grow1.jpg
  • Greenhouse BotShelf1.jpg
  • Greenhouse Lower.jpg
  • Greenhouse Grow.jpg

#24 Lazlo


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Posted 28 December 2006 - 09:32 PM


#25 Helltick



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Posted 28 December 2006 - 10:22 PM

Now thats the shit I'm talking about...Simply Awesome Man.


#26 Guest_mycobsession_*

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 10:40 PM

I need to iron out the kinks but I think this design has many advantages.

I have eight blocks growing with five types of (edible) mushrooms in it.

Interestingly, I have four blocks of ostreatus and the one pictured has almost finished the first flush while the others are only beginning to show signs of fruiting.

#27 Lazlo


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Posted 28 December 2006 - 11:03 PM

Looks like you've got some Stropharia in there as well. Nice indeed.

I'm still working out some kinks myself. How many air exchanges you guys using per hour? I'm using 2 myself.

#28 Helltick



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Posted 28 December 2006 - 11:17 PM

For me I honestly dont know...I ran coolmist 24/7 for FAE and left GH tent zippers up about an inch for gas to exit.

I only use ultrasonic for auto-misting!

GL Guy's...and keep those GH pic's coming.


#29 Guest_mycobsession_*

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Posted 28 December 2006 - 11:29 PM

For me I honestly dont know...I ran coolmist 24/7 for FAE and left GH tent zippers up about an inch for gas to exit.

My zippers are up an inch or two as well and so far I have not noticed that the growing mushrooms require any extra air exchange. This is outside. It has been cold lately and the air denser. When it warms up I may need mechanical air exchanges.

#30 Helltick



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Posted 29 December 2006 - 12:29 AM

Never done outside grows.
....none the less, good luck my friend!

Thx again Topia!

#31 Elf Salvation

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Posted 30 December 2006 - 03:22 PM

Great work Helltick!

#32 Hippie3



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Posted 06 February 2007 - 03:40 PM

great post
'cept all the pix are linked offsite
so they will eventually disappear
so now i gotta upload them all myself

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#33 Helltick



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Posted 17 February 2007 - 04:17 PM


I figured I'd would write up a nice little guide to help noobs such as myself down the road of building an automated Green house.

It's nothing new or anything and is basically a Martha closet.

I like lots of space and room to move... got tired of working out of box's.

Keep in mind the products pictured in this guide are not cheap and it isn't stealth.

There are other ways...

With that said...let's begin the "Automated Greenhouse Guide".

I will be using a '36"W X 60"H X 19"D' 4-tier greenhouse. I bought mine off season (October) and was on sale
for $50 CAN.

Its a nice solid powder coated metal unit that comes with casters for mobility...however has no bottom.

I think a bottom is necessary to catch any moisture from the cool mist and ultrasonic also, to help keep any contams out.

I found a 36" X 19" under-bed storage box at walmart for $19.

If you remove the casters from GH it friction fits in box...doesn't go all the way to the bottom but is very solid.

I wanted my GH to be very mobile and easy to clean, so the casters had to stay.

By adding the casters to the lower box serves two purposes...mobility and a space for the drip pan.

I drilled one 1-1/4" hole in the center for the drain and four 1/2" holes on each corner for casters.

I then flipped over and added LOTS of PL-400 construction adhesive on each caster...
I tried using 100% silicone for this at first, but it didn't hold up.

I stacked Cd's beside each caster so I could start building while construction adhesive was still curing...If you don't, the weight
of the GH will just fuck things up and your casters wont work properly.

As you can see it makes for a great fit...very rigid and solid.

Also the sides of the tent drape nicely in to the box so the moisture goes where you want it.

You will appreciate the pan at cleaning time...The MOST important thing to consider when constructing a greenhouse is
sooner or later your going to have to clean this thing.
Remember, that GH isn't going look all new and pretty forever.

Another thing the drip pan saves is your flooring...I can just imagine what things would look like under the GH after
A fully loaded 16 tray grow.

Anyway, the above method works just fine...However have found a better way and chose to edit this post.
If you have access to a circular saw, drill with 5/8" bit, and a scrap of plywood, I recommend the following approach.

By doing it this way NO holes are drilled in the tub itself...and can basically be used as your dish sink for cleaning
even on carpet...while still having the mobility benefits!

Like anything...there is an easy way to clean and a hard way...this being very easy!
Please see cleaning procedures at the bottom of this post.

Now to start prepping for the cool mist and ultra sonic.

-I used 10' of 3/4" ID clear re-enforced tubing from home depot.
-Various tube connectors, tube clamps also from home depot.
-Tuck-tape used for tyvek house wrap...home depot.
-Two CD jewels.

I drilled two 1-1/4" holes in each Jewel...make sure you drill from one side just until it scores the plastic...
then flip over to finish her off or else it'll crack the Jewel.

Apply 100% silicon to the smooth side of Jewel...then without cutting the GH tent stick the Jewel up high and
in the center outside GH...
Then apply tuck-tape, also try running the tape up and over onto the roof for strength...
So the stitching at wall to roof connection isn't torn or fatigued over time by the weight of plumbing.

Now just repeat for the inside keeping the holes lined up...I strongly suggest Tuck-tape it is very strong and
will not come off plastic without brute force...strength is what were after in order to take the weight of the

Now again I wanted this GH very mobile..I wanted all tubes to come apart easily for cleaning and such...I wanted
lots of freedom and NO confinement.

I cut two pieces of tube about 10" long and clamp to the 90 deg. this time I cut the GH tent by
cutting an X shape in each of the 2 holes then inserted and siliconed the fittings.

This 'pig tail' type setup allows for manipulation of the tubes for
an easier connection as it's not fixed to the unit...also much easier
on the green house tent.

I then added couplers and clamps to each of the 10" tubes to receive the devices..however once these couplers are
inserted they are a bitch to separate even though they are tapered.

I took a belt sander and tapered one side of the coupler to almost nothing.

I stuffed the original end of coupler into the 10" tube and clamped (fixed end). Then used the belt sanded end to
receive the device tube.

By tapering the coupler makes for MUCH easier removal for device pulling,tugging,cursing,swearing
ripping of the GH tent..kind of a quick release system.

Now your gonna want a cool mist humidifier with impeller for FAE and RH.

I used this one.

Your also going to want an ultra sonic humidifier for automated misting rather then manual hand misting with spay bottle.

I used this one.

They just love the tiny droplets of moisture from the fog of the ultra sonic...and looks very cool.

Now both of the above mentioned appliances need to be modified for this particular lets get on
with it.

I'll start with the cool mist (impeller type). I used a 'tube coupler to threaded end' fitting...looks like the male end
of a garden hose.

I drilled a 3/4" hole and friction fit the fitting in keeping the threaded end on the inside of
cool mist to prevent pulling out...then added 100% silicone.

To keep the devices easy to remove for cleaning and maintenance...I decided to use the same quick release system as
I did on the green house...No restrictions...I hate restrictions.

So i add a 6" tube with the firm end of coupler to cool mist and belt sanded tapered end to receive tube from GH...

taped off the output with my trusty tuck tape, then added an air filter over the intake.

Depending on the length of tube and position of cool may be necessary to drill four small 1/8" relief
holes in the tube near base connection to prevent back pressure, which can result in early failure of cool mist.

Now on with the home depot's plumbing section for a white PVC cap measuring 2-3/4" OD (they have them).

This cap fits perfect in the out take hole...drill a 3/4" hole in the center of the cap and added the same 'tube to
threaded end' fitting I used for the cool mist...

apply 6" of tube and clamp..then install quick release so the modified
(belt sanded end) receives tube coming from the GH.

Drop your modified cap into the ultrasonics out a nice bead of silicon around the circumference...Done.

Depending on the length of tube and position of may be necessary to drill four small 1/8" relief
holes in the tube near base connection to prevent back pressure, which can result in early failure of ultrasonic.

Now its time to hook the appliances to green house.

The tubes easily slide onto the modified effort at all.

I then used mini hand clamps to secure.

Ultrasonic takes the upper mist the lower tube.

I put both the cool mist and ultra sonic on a table to the left of the GH elevated about 2 feet off the floor.

My max tube length from device to green house is 40" long...
Ultrasonic tube is slightly shorter measuring 36".

Again easily attached and hand clamped.

The cool mist runs 24/7 ..I found it a pain in the ass to unplug the unit and remove the top to refill every time...

so I bored a 3/4" hole on the right side so I could top it up while running using a non-splatter funnel...I then use a
cork to plug the interruptions!

The ultrasonic runs on a timer 2hours off 5min on...yours might be different...however very easy to adjust RH with on/off cycles of timer.

This is the timer I use.

I keep both zippers up about an inch to allow gas to exit...the 1-1/4"
center drain in the tub also helps.

As for light, I bought 15 watt 21" fluorescent glow stick for $9 at walmart.

I just silconed it to the top of great.

12 off 12 on.

For heating I just use a portable oil filled radiator placed about 16" away from GH.

Seems to keep the temps consistent (room temp).

Cool mist too small?

If work or other ventures take you away from your hobby for several myself.

Or your just lazy and don't want to do ANY maintenance to your green house.

You can add extra water volume to your cool mist very easily by adding a reservoir.

My reservoir is a simple plastic tub that sits beside my cool mist.

Get a tub roughly the same height as the cool mist's water line...there is no sense
in getting a tall tub because you cant fill the reservoir any higher than the water
line of cool mist or it will over flow and leave a big mess.

Your going to need two 'tube coupler to threaded end' fittings...just like i used above in this
post, two tube clamps, and a tube of marine silicone.

Once you have the supplies and tub..drill a 3/4" hole about 1" from bottom.

It is very important to scuff the area around the holes with sand paper or the silicone wont bond to the smooth plastic
...insert fitting and silicone the shit out of it.

Now do the same with cool mist...1" from bottom...wait 24 hours.

Once 24 hrs has passed..cut a 6" piece of 3/4 ID tube and apply tube clamps.

Now measure up off a table or flat surface the height of the water line of cool mist...then
transfer over to your tub..make a few marks with a sharpie.

This will be your max fill line of reservoir...fill any higher and you have a mess.

Now your tub should have come with a lid...i used this to keep out any nasties.

I drilled three 1-1/4" holes.

Cover with a piece of tyvek.

Fix all sides with tuck tape and bore a 3/4" fill hole for non-splatter funnel and plug with a cork.

The finished product...I know, it ain't the prettiest thing...but it works great!

The above tub increases my water volume in the cool mist 3X.
Plenty of time for a leave of absence...without worry of drying
up and frying my equipment.

The ultrasonic is only on for very short periods of time...the onboard
reservoir holds plenty of water, and will easily last long enough for a several day get away.

Keep in mind...if you leave for several days, you still need someone to care for your fruits.
For example: your Wife...or perhaps your

All products and supplies pictured in this guide were purchased from the following two stores...

-Home depot.

Yeah I know it ain't cheap...I'm into it for around $225 CAN..but thats pretty cheap for a hobby.
Hobbies cost money, part of life.

Cleaning the mentioned early in this thread...your day will come!
If you added the drip pan it is VERY easy to do without dismantling the GH and can even be done on


-dish soap.

I fill bucket with bleach, hot water, drop of dish soap and fly at her...I clean the frame and racks
first followed by the tent...I load the sponge until it cant hold any more water and scrub.

The shelves, tent, ect should be dripping with bleach water and collecting in the pan...I then sponge
out the drip pan, change sponge and repeat.

Once everything is nuked by the bleach...I let stand for an hour.
I then fill my bucket with only cold water and with a NEW sponge hit everything again...This time around
I make the entire inside sparkle...Everything looks REALLY clean.

Once the GH looks REALLY clean...Like new again..I stack all shelves in the tub.

I load a spray bottle with straight rubbing alcohol and spray the shit outta every square inch.

I hit the shelves, frame, tent...hard.
Also makes sure to blast this area very well.

Thats why we used tuck tape right...its bullet proof and takes a beating.

I really make sure to nuke everything with the it's dripping with the shit.
This is my greenhouse after cleaning...notice it dripping with alcohol?

At this point I add 2 onces of alcohol to cool mist, close zippers and let run for 48 hrs.
When you open the zippers your GH will be clean as a whistle and should smell new again.

Drain cool mist and add fresh water...simply do a water change with the ultra sonic...

Add trays 72 hours after cleaning and carry on.

It takes an afternoon to do the grunt work of a thorough cleaning...however thats pretty minor, considering what you've grown prior to cleaning...wouldnt ya say?

I must say its a very comfortable work space, Its roomy,mobile,easy to clean and maintain and very effective.

This guide is just meant to point people in the right direction...nothing more.
If you see something you think should be different, please do so.
Its not the only way...its not the best's just what I did.
I advocate nothing, you have a better plan...perfect, thats what its all ideas...other way's!

Anyway I hope this might help other noobs like myself to jump out of the box and into the Green house.

I would like to Thank Mycotopia, Shroomery and all members for the pics,info,and ideas to construct and share my GH.

Guide Complete.


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