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foaf's simple mescaline extraction


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#1 foaf

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 12:44 PM

Originally posted elsewhere in 10/03

As far as I know this is the first documented, successful mescaline extraction that doesn't require making syrup first, and this is the second biggest pile of mesc we've ever seen a pic of. 12.7 grams of crude mescaline crystal: no pressure cooking, no boiling, no straining, minimal steps, and easy to get materials. (note added 2007 - improvements since posting include KOH being superior to lye, as it causes less emulsions and toluene being as good or better of an extraction solvent.). Acquiring the starting materials is addressed below. enjoy, there is nothing much like a mescaline trip.

Thanks to ion who provided great insight as I worked out these details, and owen clued us in on using HCl instead of H2SO4, and me! has done more of this than anyone, and made many improvements in equipment and some alternate paths one could follow.

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#2 foaf

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 12:46 PM

Summary:

A: 2.5 gallon water jug (carboy) + 1.5 gallons water + 27 ounces of lye <mix> + 1 kg powdered peruvian torch [ http://icarosdna.yage.net email icaro for prices and availability link good 1/07 cautious with dried cactus crossing customs, one report in GB of pending prosection for this]+ 48 ounces xylene <mix repeatedly then let sit 2 days>

B: siphon about 44 ounces of the xylene off the top put into sep funnell

C: Add 8 ounces of distilled water + 3 cc Muriatic Acid (this is probably too much but excess HCl is ok) <swirl a bunch no shaking>

D: Replace xylene in carboy each cycle with 44 ounces of fresh xyxlene for a total of 4 x 44 ounce xylene washes total. With each new cycle add 1/2 a bottle of lye to up the ante.

E: Put acid water in casserole dish and evap with fan <3 acid water washes for each of the 44 ounce xylene layers>

F: Scrape Crude mescaline hydrocloride with razor <total of 12 casserole dish cycles>

G: Discard Xylene

H: Add another 9 ounces of lye with each of the 3 fresh xylene layers

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#3 foaf

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 12:47 PM

Details:

Setup - equipment - safety


If possible, invest the time and funds to get a couple of the helpful tools. Budget it into your deal both time and money. You will do it again if you make it easy on yourself.

Here is some of the equipment that you might consider. The 2.5 gallon glass water jug is just about essential. Your local water delivery company will have it, they are glad to sell you one. You can also order one on the internet or get locally from homebrew dealers. A 1 liter seperatory funnell is about essential. You can figure out a workaround, I'm sure. The turkey baster has had a TB syringe epoxied to the opening to make it long and narrow. This makes it take longer to suck up, but the large standard opening slobbers solvent and it stirs up the separation when it falls back in, this long small tip helps a lot. Siphoning is best. Black plastic tubing used for micro irrigation systems doesnt get soft in xylene.

Safety equipment: always always were safety goggles. Gloves should come on and off without having to turn them inside out, dont use nitrile with xylene, and thin latex gets soft, you need thick chemical gloves, latex or polyurethane. Xylene wont hurt your skin, but if your glove breaches, the lye will. A foam fire extinguisher incase the xylene catches on fire. You need to have running water near your laboratory. If you get lye or acid on you, you need to be able to wash off immediately, and if you get it in your eyes, you need running water that you can direct at your eyes such as a bathtub that you can quickly lay in and look up at the stream of water. I keep a jug of pool ph down, it is soduim bisulfate. Its like a half used up sulfuric acid molecule. The worst case scenario is to have the glass reaction chamber break or spill, and you can throw this on it to neutralize the lye. Concentrated NaOH water is very causic, and while sodium bisulfate could burn you, you would gladly trade it for the NaOH.

You need a bottle of muriatic acid. It is basically 30% hydrocloric acid. 3 bottles of Red Devil Lye. A gallon of distilled water. 2 gallons of xylene.
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#4 foaf

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 12:48 PM

Starting off:

You start out by powdering well dried cactus. You can use a coffee mill, food processor, or mortar and pestal. I think that getting it to be a very fine powder is important and a potential site of improved yeilds. Sift the cactus flour or screen it through a collander. Re mill the pieces that arent powder.

In the Carboy:
Get a 2.5 gal carboy. Drain off 1 gallon, or if empty, fill it with 1.5 gallons clean water, doesn't have to be distilled, the spring water that came in the jug is fine. Slowly add 1 1/2 cans of Red devil lye. They are 18 ounces each bottle. Goggles gloves for sure from here on out. Get it all dissolved, roll the bottle with a glove held ove the top using the cap that comes with it, hold the cap on at all times, or get a special stopper. It will heat and pressure will try to pop the top off and spray lye water on you; dont let this happen. Add the 1000 grams of powdered cactus after all the lye is dissolved. Add 48 ounces of xylene. Roll it around on something soft, I have a rubber mat, roll it intermittently for part of a day, and let it settle at least 2 days undisturbed, 2 days is very important. The xylene, cactus/water/lye interface will settle more and more if you wait overnight. There is a very fine dust that will take much longer to completely settle out of the xylene, it can be hard to appreciate at first. If you can wait a couple days, the xylene will be free of it. If you want to rush you will see more of it in the next step or you can filter the xylene prior to next step but you will need fine lab filter paper, it goes straight through coffee filters.
You can get a chemical resistand cork at a brew supply store, I couldnt find one so I put a chemical resistant latex glove over the opening and then the plastic outside cap. This cap that comes with it gets soft if it touches the xylene. With xylene dont use nitrile, polypropylene is best then thick latex, thin latex softens.

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#5 foaf

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 12:50 PM

Siphoning:

Careful siphoning. It is best to have two people, one to watch the tip and hold the tube, the other to get the siphon going. If you suck, well, its bad to get xylene in your mouth, but not terrible. It is terrible to get the lye/cactus layer in your mouth and it will burn you quickly, dont let this happen.
You can suck to siphon (use something other than your mouth if you can), but it is better to take a syrings of distilled water and slowly fill the tube up after it is in place, dont push hard you will disturb the layer interface. If xylene gets in a syringe, it locks up cause it dissolves the rubber plunger. I used some copper tubing to hold the plastic to the side wall so you can be more careful and not suck up much aqueous. You could also use a sturdy copper wire, no insulation or painted coat hangers.

Siphon, or turkey baste the 44 of the 48 oz of xylene from the top, care taken not to suck up any cactus/lye/water, you will have to leave a 1/4 inch layer of xylene to accomplish this.

Once you have the 44 ounces of xylene cleanly out of the reaction carboy, at this point go ahead and add 44 ounces of fresh xylene to the reaction chamber, and another half bottle of lye. I tried reusing the xylene for each extraction, but for some reason, with this tek, the xylene builds up some unwanted stuff, and the crystal is a good bit cleaner if you use fresh xylene each time. If you plan on a final purification step, you can reuse the xylene, or at least use two xylene layers and rotate them. Siphon into a juice jar then put it into the sep funnell or improvise somehow.

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#6 foaf

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 12:51 PM

In the Sep Funnell:

Put all the xylene in a seperatory funnell (a 1 liter unit will hold everything), or do it in two batches if you have a small funnell. Add one cup of distilled water; must be distilled. And add 3 cc of muriatic acid. Swirl the sep funnell,dont shake. Swirl repeatedly, let it sit, and repeat swirrling.
If there is a flocculent later at the top of the water do not let this get into the casserole dish. This is not mescaline. This is some insoluble stuff that you can avoid if you let the carboy settle longer before siphoning. If you get some of it, it will float to the top of the acid/water layer, put this stuff and the very bottom of the xylene back in the reaction carboy. Put only the clear water part in the dish. If there is much suspended dust in the acid water, you should filter it before evaporating or let it settle before evaporating. Keep the clean xylene on top for another round of acid water extractions. Do 3 acid water extractions with 8 oz each, and evaporate each in a casserole dish.

Back to the Carboy and then back to the Sep Funnell.
Repeat with a total of 4 xylene layers in the carboy, adding another half a bottle of lye each time. The last xylene layer, suck up all the xylene and as you start to get that last bit, have a friend switch the containers that catch the siphon, and suck up the last xylene and the top of the lye/water/dust layer. let the water dust part settleout in a sep funnell, and throw away the dust/water/lye layer that will settle.

In the casserole dish:
Thats a total of 12 acid washes of 8 oz each; so you need a good evaporation station and a couple of casserole dishes. When you check the crystals in the casserole dish, if they smell like hydrocloric acid when you scrape, they need to dry out some more, and this confirms that an excess of acid was used. You can reduce the amount of acid if you smell a lot of it as it evaporates. The amount of acid to mix in the water needs to be worked out, much less than 3cc would likely be enough.

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#7 foaf

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 12:53 PM

Final thoughts

Remember that efforts to greatly purify the final product are gratifying, but not essential. Except for better dosing control and aesthetics, I dont see any benefit to purifying past the first HCL acid water evaporation.

I have heard from reliable sources, (a friend of a friend), that you can get on average 14 grams of similiar appearing crude crystal from the same starting material if you use the original tek syrup -> extract xylene -> hcl evap. So it may be that this tek is less efficient, but hey, this was the first run, and perhaps we can improve.

Dispose of the xylene safely. Best would be to put it back in the metal container, and find a toxic waste station that takes used solvent. Dont flush it, if you must discard it clandestinely, spill it on the ground away from plants, animals, and runoff water so it can evaporate.

Please be safe. Ive heard it said that the only safe way to do this is just to make syrup and choke it down. If you dont feel comfortable handling strong acid, strong lye solutions, and flamable solvents, you should not do this.
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May mescalito smile on your efforts. <!--emo&:)-->Posted Image<!--endemo-->


#8 Hippie3

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 01:05 PM

thx for sharing
:bow:

#9 JBB

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 01:25 PM

Sounds tempting but every other mescaline extraction I've ever tried has never got round the thick cactus snot problem. There's no use rolling the bottle if the cactus snot is more or less solid :mistrust:

#10 foaf

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 01:36 PM

Cactus "snot" is the bain of cactus syrup and the original extractions, its the reason I originally tried something different. With this technique, and its also the new way to do MHRB, you put dried product directly into highly basified water. No snot forms. There is no viscous nastiness to deal with at all. The only issue with the aqueous phase is that the powder forms "sort of" micelles, and you have to break them up, but no snot like you get if you start with an acidic boiling of the cactus. Ive done 4 rounds this way, 2 with one kilo and 2 with 2 kilos, and except for switching to KOH, from NaOH, I wouldn't change a thing.

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Posted 04 January 2007 - 02:58 PM

archive material


welcome, btw :bow:




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