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Mescaline Extraction - Lab Notes + Result Pics


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#1 SonOfGaia

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 02:10 AM

Mescaline Extraction Lab Notes

I wasnt going to do a step-by-step, but someone in chat told me they didnt undertstand even after reading all the teks and to do a bulleted list. So here is my bulleted list lab notes, of use to those who have a full knowledge of all known teks. Basic stuff + a few tips + pics. Enjoy! ;)

This method can be multiplied to 2 1-gallon jug containers each with 200g cacti. Have fun!

TIP: Use the biggest gelcaps you can find for mescaline. Buy some ascorbic acid powder (Vitamin-C) from your local home brew beer shop, vitamin shop, or health shop and fill the remainder of your gelcaps up with it. A nice kick to the brain!

SAFETY: EVERY window was opened. Multiple big fans were oscillating. Rooms w/ windows open + fans on were closed off and "safe". Goggles, face masks, and chem-gloves were used.

M4 ‘Sanchez

Materials Used:
  • 200g Peruvian Torch Incense Chips
  • 2 18oz Bottles Sodium Hydroxide (Roebic brand works) (see attached image)
  • 1 Bottle Muriatic Acid
  • 3liter Toluene (Xylene works too)
  • 1 3liter Acetone
  • 1 1-gallon Glass Apple Juice Jug (see attached image)
  • 1 Glass bottle (Organic Cranberry Juice Bottle. SOBE bottles work)
  • 2 3qt Apple Juice Bottles (see attached image)
  • 1 Pyrex glass measuring container (4 cups) (see attached image)
  • 1 Pyrex baking dish (see attached image w/ fan)
  • 1 Large Plastic Funnel
  • 1 10ml Measured Dropper
  • 3 Mason Jar Lid Rings
  • 1 Skillet
  • 1 Pressure Cooker Pot
  • Cotton Balls
  • Solvent Mask w/ Filter
  • Chem-gloves
  • Drill or big nail
  • Small power fan (Hawaiian Beeze works well) (see attached image)
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Extracting
1. Powderized 200g Peruvian Torch Incense in blender.
2. Put 200g of cactus powder in 1-gallon glass jug.
3. Added 9 ounces of sodium hydroxide (lye) to jug.
4. Added distilled water to fill jug half-way up.
5. Tightened cap and shook. Opened cap after 5 seconds of shaking to release gases. Note: Created lots of heat in jug.
6. Tightened cap and shook to mix thoroughly. Kept releasing gas as necessary.
7. Added enough Toluene to come up 4 inches above cactus sludge.
8. Tightened cap and gently placed sideways on floor (on a towel)
9. Rolled back and forth semi-fast to mix thoroughly without a lot of bubbles. Released gas as necessary.
10. Let sit for 24 hours to separate. (See notes on emulsion below)

Salting
1. Added 5ml (1 teaspoon) Muriatic acid to 250ml (1.25 cups) distilled water in glass bottle. Shook well. Set aside.
2. Using a turkey baster, the top layer of toluene was sucked off (without getting any of the emulsions layer) and put it into a 3qt Juice bottle.
3. Added acid mixture to toluene and shook thoroughly.
4. Waited 5-10 minutes for it to separate completely.
5. Drilled a pencil-sized hole on one of the bottom side of a separate 3qt Juice bottle. The hole was on the area where the bottle curves to the underneath side.
6. Prepared a glass container to catch liquid (Pyrex 4-cup). Wearing chem-gloves, held the juice bottle while covering the hole on the bottom with finger.
7. Slowly poured all contents of juice bottle 1 into the bottle with the hole, then let contents separate for 10-20 seconds while finger covered the hole.
8. Carefully drained off water out of hole into the glass container. Maneuvered the juice bottle the most optimal way to make the water come to the hole.
9. Used eyedropper to remove\microseperate extreme excess toluene.
10. Placed water under a fan for several hours until all toluene had evaporated from the top of the water.

Subsequent Pulls
-Added an additional 9oz Lye to cactus sludge. Shook well. Released gas as necessary.
-Repeated all steps from Extraction step 7 through Salting step 10. Kept final water separate for each pull.
-Used fresh toluene for pull1 and pull 2, reused pull 2 toluene for pull 3

Evaporating
1. Evaporated the water from each pull separately and kept the results separate.
2. If less then 200ml, poured water onto glass Pyrex baking dish.
3. Used small fan aimed downward onto dish to dry over the course of 1-2 days.
4. As certain areas dried faster, remaining liquid was moved around the dish to even out.
5. If it was over 200ml, see section below on safe reducing.
6. See section below on crystal building (optional).
7. Using a fresh razor blade, fresh crystals were scraped off the dish. Brown areas of the dish were noted, and powder scraped from the white areas was kept separate. Similar colors were added together.
8. Using a razor blade, the powder was chopped out into a big flat circle as thin as it could be made and it was set somewhere open to dry for a few days. Do not use oven!!!!! Heat lamps kept a good distance worked well.

Acetone Washing
1. 3-5 cotton balls were tightly fit in a large funnel. The first cotton ball stuck out about halfway the bottom of the funnel. The last cotton ball filled where the bottom part of the funnel starts inside.
2. Filled a 1 pint mason jar ¾ full with Acetone.
3. Added mescaline powder to acetone.
4. Tightened lid and shook vigorously.
5. Released gases, re-tightened lid, and put in freezer.
6. Placed funnel over large cup and\or 1 quart mason jar to catch acetone.
7. Once ice cold, swirled acetone jar and poured through funnel. Added a small amount of acetone and swirled out the remaining salts ifrom the jar into the funnel
8. Poured fresh cold acetone through the funnel until it ran out clear into the catching container.
9. Placed funnel 3-4 feet in front of a fan set on low until there was no more acetone smell (12-24 hours).
10. Positioned funnel over a catch-container as before, and slowly poured 200ml of boiling water through the funnel. All salts were sucked into the water and through the cotton into the container. Evaporated + scraped as before.

Emulsions
-The first step to avoiding emulsions is using Toluene as apposed to Xylene.
-The second step is your mixing method. Make sure you very carefully roll the container when you mix the toluene in. Roll it back and forth slowly at first to get a feel for how the water moves and falls back on itself, mixing, without splashing. Work with the natural flow of the water and speed up pace. Roll back and forth pretty hard a few times if you feel the need, but don’t get carried away.
- Roll\Mix Jug thoroughly then add 4oz Lye and roll\mix + release gases then let separate on heat bath (see below) for 1 hour then out of bath for 2 hours. If the emulsion is still unbearable, add 4oz more and repeat until you get less emulsion. Do not add more then 18oz total, just use what you can at that point. Let it separate for 24 hours then try to pull off the toluene.
-If separation still fails, add toluene to fill the rest of the 1-gallon jug. Roll\mix. Heat bath (see below). Let sit 24 hours then pull off what you can.

The Heat Bath
The heat bath is fairly easy and was used pretty much as protocol for most all separation operations.
1. Add 3 mason jar lid bands on the bottom of a pressure cooker pot (as seen in skillet in attached image below).
2. Put the 1-gallon glass jug with toluene and cactus sludge on the lid bands in the pressure cooker pot (see attached image below).
3. Make sure the jug lid is resting loosely on top.
4. Fill the water up to about 1 inch below the top rim of the pot.
5. Turn the heat on low-medium and keep the jug there for 1 hour.
6. Remove the jug and place aside to cool for the remaining 23 hours.

Safe Reducing Acidic Alkaloid Water
1. Put acidic alkaloid-water into Pyrex 4-cup container.
2. Put 3 mason jar lid bands on the bottom of a skillet (see attached image below)
3. Put Pyrex 4-cup container on top of lid bands.
4. Fill skillet to ½ inch below the rim with water.
5. Turn heat on medium-high and leave for hours as needed. Make sure to vent very well!
6. Add water to skillet as necessary. +
7. Once to 100-200ml, crystallize!
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Crystal Building
1. Obtain a container of alkaloid water.
2. Pore just enough on a Pyrex baking dish to BARELY cover the whole bottom (you have to move around the dish to spread it all).
3. Set baking dish in front of small power fan (see attached image below)
4. Wait minutes\hours for evaporation to occur. Move liquid around to dry areas then wait for more evaporation.
5. Once dry, add another small amount of liquid and repeat the process until all liquid is used up.
6. Keep dry crystals on Pyrex baking dish under power fan for an addition 12 hours.
7. Scrape while keeping each section of crystal purity seperate. Seperate whiter areas from browner areas.
8. Enjoy!
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#2 SonOfGaia

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 02:15 AM

500g Peruvian Cactus Incense
2 1-Gallon Glass Jugs
3 Pulls Each
Xylene
Spilled some water out a few times (drrrr!)

Dark brown - 3 grams
Medium Tan - 1.2 grams
Light White - 400mg
Total Yield - 4.6g

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#3 shobimono

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 08:47 AM

Very nice job, thanks for sharing this with us!

#4 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 09:19 AM

Wow, damned impressive write up, man.

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#5 SonOfGaia

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 10:40 AM

Thanks! :)

I just hope it helps a few people understand some of the key points + various trickey areas a little bit better. Mescaline extractions are easy! I hope to work on an MEK wash next. :bow:

The containers used should be noted.
-The glass applejuice jugs MAY not be good after 2 extractions... although I've never had one break, I hear the basic water can weaken the glass over time.
-The 3qt plastic apple juice jugs were used as a make-shift seperatory funnel... and no plastic was eatten by the solvent, even after prolonged exposure.
-A turkey baster sometimes wears away after use, and may need to be replaced.

Pulling Remaining Alkaloids
1. Save all toluene used during all pulls. Add together and put in 1 (or however many you need) containers.
2. Let sit 72 hours to seperate out any hidden cactus sludge
3. Pour off toluene to fill half of a 3qt Juice bottle.
4. Use make-shift seperatory funnel, if needed, to further seperate remaining toluene\sludge left over.
5. Repeat steps from Salting step 1 and on. Evap + enoy!
6. Repeat as necessary, half a jug at a time, for all your toluene.
7. Only attempt 1 more pull on each half-jug batch of remaining toluene.



#6 loochypooch

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 12:09 PM

Thank you, thank you, hurray for bulleted lists! Haha. Wonderful write up!

A problem I noticed was that the seperation of layers is not so clear. Since the basic solution which the powder soaks is clear, and the xylene is clear, how do you know what to syphen off? Would food coloring or something help here? Does it matter if you get some lye in the xylene considering your acidifying the xylene with hcl later?

And a couple more questions come to mind. What PH should the aqueous hcl solution be? Won't freezing the xylene/aqueoushcl make it easy to drain off the xylene (and reuse)? The resulting water could then be evaped to get cystals right?

:cool:

#7 SonOfGaia

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 12:42 PM

A problem I noticed was that the seperation of layers is not so clear. Since the basic solution which the powder soaks is clear, and the xylene is clear, how do you know what to syphen off? Would food coloring or something help here? Does it matter if you get some lye in the xylene considering your acidifying the xylene with hcl later?

And a couple more questions come to mind. What PH should the aqueous hcl solution be? Won't freezing the xylene/aqueoushcl make it easy to drain off the xylene (and reuse)? The resulting water could then be evaped to get cystals right?


The seperation, after 24 hours, should have a distinct top solvent layer... This solvent layer, when disturbed, will slide around a little on top of the emulsions layer. The emulsions layer can be 1cm or 4+ inches thick, and is generally a foamy looking pale green sludge. I've never seen clear xylene after properly mixing it with a basic cactus powder solution... but it should seperate to a noticeably distinct top layer which you can see through to the emulsions layer.

You are better off leaving behind some solvent then you are getting emulsions\lye caught up in the mix. If you have lye (NaOH) in the solvent when you try to salt (HCL), you will form table salt (NaCl) with a byproduct of water (H2O)... which will REALLY throw off your purity + weight. That is the primary reason for waiting the full 24 hours for seperation... so the least bit of lye is in the solvent, so less table salt is formed and you get more pure alkaloids.

An alternate method instead of the baster would be to (with a lab assistant) pour off as much of the solvent layer as you can slowly + carefully into the 3qt Apple Juice bottle with the hole on the bottom (while covering it with your finger. With chem-gloves on of course). Hold this for a few minutes to see if any different color stuff settles underneath the solvent, if so, drain it off then pour the solvent back into its normal 3qt bottle.

Not sure what the precise pH was for the acid solution. Used 2-3ml Muriatic per 100ml water.

Yes, you can freeze the aqueous layer, pour off solvent, rinse with some ice cold water to remove remaining solvent, then thaw + evap. Yes you can re-use the solvent as well. Fresh solvent was used for pull 1 and pull 2 to avoid emulsions that were seen with a previous extraction where the same solvent was used for both pulls. :thumbup:

#8 spacecake

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 12:43 PM

Wow, damned impressive write up, man.

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I was thinking the same thing..,nice write-up ! :bow:

#9 loochypooch

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 12:50 PM

Yes, you can freeze the aqueous layer, pour off solvent, rinse with some ice cold water to remove remaining solvent, then thaw + evap. Yes you can re-use the solvent as well. I used fresh solvent for pull 1 and pull 2 to avoid emulsions i got with a previous extraction where i used the same solvent for both pulls. :thumbup:


Well, is there any harm in leaving a small amount of xylene in the pie sheet to evap, won't it evap clean? My friend did not rinse with ice cold water.

Also, since there was no clear emulsion layer (I think it has to do with the gooeyness of this powder) will any excess lye evap cleanly as well? A ph test was done of the final solution in the pie dish and it looked neutral (7-8) so I'm assuming that's okay?

#10 SonOfGaia

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 12:56 PM

Well, is there any harm in leaving a small amount of xylene in the pie sheet to evap, won't it evap clean? My friend did not rinse with ice cold water.

Also, since there was no clear emulsion layer (I think it has to do with the gooeyness of this powder) will any excess lye evap cleanly as well? A ph test was done of the final solution in the pie dish and it looked neutral (7-8) so I'm assuming that's okay?


No harm, all solvent will evap off the dish with no problem. You can try adding more water, more lye, and more solvent to your mix to try and loosen it up to seperate. Maybe split it into a few containers and work with it. The final water solution SHOULD be neutral, that means there is no excess acid, that is very good. :meditate:

#11 loochypooch

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 01:14 PM

No harm, all solvent will evap off the dish with no problem. You can try adding more water, more lye, and more solvent to your mix to try and loosen it up to seperate. Maybe split it into a few containers and work with it. The final water solution SHOULD be neutral, that means there is no excess acid, that is very good. :meditate:


Everything you just said there matches with what I was thinking. I think to use quart jars only 50g of incense per jar would work since one needs to really add a lot of liquid to thin this down. With MHRB powder we used 2 parts water, one part powder, but with cactus powder it needs to be like 4 parts water and 1 part powder.

Also with the mhrb tek a ph of 13.5+ was recommended for the lye solution, but I've read that a ph of around 10 is better for cactus, is that true? According to your tek, it seems like you maybe use a very high ratio of lye (or maybe just because your quantities of water we so high?).

Anyways, was it an error in your tek to add the lye before the water? I'm a chemtard, but everywhere I read it says NEVER to add water to lye (or hcl) but instead to slowly add the acid or base to the water to avoid excess heat and splattering.

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 03:15 PM

thank you, Son Of Gaia :heart:

good call, Buckaroo! Definitely A.M.

#13 SonOfGaia

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 04:08 PM

I've read that a ph of around 10 is better for cactus, is that true? According to your tek, it seems like you maybe use a very high ratio of lye (or maybe just because your quantities of water we so high?).

Anyways, was it an error in your tek to add the lye before the water? I'm a chemtard, but everywhere I read it says NEVER to add water to lye (or hcl) but instead to slowly add the acid or base to the water to avoid excess heat and splattering.


Yes. 18oz lye per gallon of water was used. A pH around 10 works good for cactus, but sometimes too little lye will create nasty emulsions so thats why so much was thrown in. It won't really break down too many alkloids right away. You want to avoid letting it SIT in the lye water un-needed though, beyond the 3 back-to-back 24hr separations.

The lye was mixed with the cactus powder first so it pulls any moisture out of the cactus powder. Then the water was mixed in to create a fairly hot reaction to suck out all the alkaloids effectively. In the big 1-gallon glass jugs, spashing isnt too much of a problem if you put it in carefeully. Make sure you have your chem-gloves and goggles on and your good to go. :)

#14 Space Doubt

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 07:35 PM

That is pretty. What would one need as far as dosage on something like that?

#15 SonOfGaia

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Posted 12 January 2007 - 08:17 PM

Dosing
-400-500mg is a good starting range to test out a fresh batch of 'sanchez. Mescaline is a very easy-going peaceful trip, you have nothing to fear at this dose. Make sure your powder is dry before dosing.
-For the different shades of brown mescaline:
300mg - Body trip
400mg - Tripping (good mild starting dose)
500mg - Good Tripping (good strong starter dose)
600mg - Pretty strong trip
700+mg - Full visionary state!

#16 Guest_cap_*

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 06:58 AM

any noticable difference in potency between the different colors or 'grades'?

thanks again, and well done! :thumbup: may SWIY enjoy the bounty in good spirits :)

#17 JBB

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 07:52 AM

Never had much luck with mescaline - always extremely poor yields. Can't get past the rock solid ball of goo the cactus powder forms into the second you add any moisture.

#18 SonOfGaia

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 05:22 PM

any noticable difference in potency between the different colors or 'grades'?

thanks again, and well done! :thumbup: may SWIY enjoy the bounty in good spirits :)


SWIM has only tried a darker brown powder. They took 500mg and felt good at 4 hours in and decided to take 200mg more. The trip was very mellow and not "intense" at all... the batch had been burned and was pretty darker brown (then any of the pics). Another 500mg was taken about 10 hours after the initial dose and the trip was pretty nice, not very hard but some momments of brief intensity that were very interesting.

SWIM felt, at one point while sitting on a hill at a park, that they were a cactus. Complete tranquility and a very grounded and immediately aware of the general area feeling. The landscapes waved, folded, and morphed smoothly... pleasantly.

SWIM plans on testing some of the tan stuff within a week or so and will report. Or maybe some sulfate that might be around ;)

#19 moldylogic

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Posted 24 January 2007 - 03:17 PM

Very nice write up.... plan on trying this one myself.

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Posted 25 January 2007 - 03:14 AM

yeah, i could use a tan myself..

http://mycotopia.net...=1&d=1169712799

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