Correct me if Im wrong but is too much humidity when colonizing bad? I figured it would cause contams, etc. Well my incubator was running at 84ish with 30-40% humidity. The fishtank heater broke so we got another one, which is quite a bit bigger (nothing too drastic though) Anyway, my friend opens up the incubator at the humidity reads 95%. What kind of ways can we get rid of the humidity. We are using two rubbermaids with the fishtank heater. Thanks.
Terrarium humidity [merged]
Started By
Guest_mindspin420x_*
, Feb 10 2005 05:49 PM
55 replies to this topic
#2
cutty
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Gone Fishin'
Posted 10 February 2005 - 10:06 PM
Too much humidity will cause Cobweb contam.Personally I havent really noticed a huge difference in colo when using a incubator.If I were you I would just stick with leaving your jars at room temp in a box or closet.
#3
python
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Posted 10 February 2005 - 10:20 PM
yes i recommend that you leave your jars in a closet at room temp as well
i hae used a tub in tub (TiT) before.......to keep humidity out of the inner tub you can cover it with press and seal wrap then the lid and the humidity will get low while the ambient humidity inside the outer tub is still prob 100 percent......i would suggest a clean towel in the bottom of the inner tub to help evenly distibute the heat since the bottom is closet to the heater.....the tub in tub works well but it is a hassle IMO, i now put all my stuff on a shelf at like 70-75 maybe 78 degrees sometimes...
(Message edited by python on February 11, 2005)
i hae used a tub in tub (TiT) before.......to keep humidity out of the inner tub you can cover it with press and seal wrap then the lid and the humidity will get low while the ambient humidity inside the outer tub is still prob 100 percent......i would suggest a clean towel in the bottom of the inner tub to help evenly distibute the heat since the bottom is closet to the heater.....the tub in tub works well but it is a hassle IMO, i now put all my stuff on a shelf at like 70-75 maybe 78 degrees sometimes...
(Message edited by python on February 11, 2005)
#4
Guest_mindspin420x_*
Guest_mindspin420x_*
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Posted 10 February 2005 - 10:21 PM
Only problem is that my friends room is not insulated properly, so the constant room temp is about 65 in the winter. We had it without the heater but it seemed to stop growing.
#5
python
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Posted 10 February 2005 - 10:22 PM
well than keep the tub in tub, and you can regulate tmeps at 79-80 degrees for water temp.cover the inner tub with wrap and lid and everything will be great.......
#6
Guest_mindspin420x_*
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Posted 14 February 2005 - 03:21 AM
Well weve had the humidity problems and what not for a few days now.
#7
Lazlo
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old hand
Posted 14 February 2005 - 03:41 AM
The grains are far too wet and have sparked up Bacillus (wet spot contamination). I see some trich (green mold) in the one to the left also. Throw away and start again.
#8
Guest_mindspin420x_*
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Posted 14 February 2005 - 06:27 PM
Fuck, I had to deal with these things being a pain since mid december and it needs to be redone... what a let down. Any suggestions to avoid that? For some reason Im still having humidity problems. Think I should just retry doing the same shit with 1/2pt jars instead of quart jars? Bah, im so upset right now.
#9
Lazlo
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Posted 14 February 2005 - 06:54 PM
Nope! stick with the seed man. Do it like this and you will prevail. Soak seed for 24 hrs in H20. Drain seed in colander after a good rinse under the spicket. Just rinse them to get the funk from the soak water off. After 2 hrs of draining load your jars 2/3 full and pc them for 2hrs @ 15 psi. PC them on a pretty hot burner, but not 100% glow, 8 on the stove works good. You want a medium red glow of the burner. Get the regulator moving pretty good, but not flying off the pc. You'll see what i mean. Allow the jars to cool to the touch and give them a tap against your palm a few times to break up the grains. You'll see what i mean. The pc'ing will stick the grains together. Allow to cool completely and nock'em up with choice of innoculation. BAM! There ya go!
(Message edited by looper on February 15, 2005)
(Message edited by looper on February 15, 2005)
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#10
Lazlo
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Posted 14 February 2005 - 06:57 PM
Oh and by the way, cover the poly fill plugged lids of the jars with aluminum foil so H20 doesn't get into them during the pc'ing.
(Message edited by looper on February 15, 2005)
(Message edited by looper on February 15, 2005)
#11
Guest_mindspin420x_*
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Posted 14 February 2005 - 07:40 PM
Oh also, it may be hard to find a PC but most people say grains need to be PC'ed... am I better off PC'ing them than boiling?
#12
Lazlo
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Posted 14 February 2005 - 07:57 PM
Always pc whole grains. Boiling them will not penetrate the husk efficiantly to render contams. A pc is about 40 degrees hotter than boiling point. Don't do this tek without a pc. I have 1 that i'm getting rid of for a trade. The guy that SUPPOSIDLY! made a deal with me hasn't got back to me in a while. If he doesn't come through you can have it if you have a descent trade. Lets see what he does.
#13
Spark
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Posted 14 February 2005 - 08:15 PM
Do it like this and you will prevail.
Soak seed for 24 hrs in H20. Drain seed in colander after a good rinse under the spicket. Just rinse them to get the funk from the soak water off. After 2 hrs of draining load your jars 2/3 full and pc them for 2hrs @ 15 psi.
Thanks for the info...
Spark
Soak seed for 24 hrs in H20. Drain seed in colander after a good rinse under the spicket. Just rinse them to get the funk from the soak water off. After 2 hrs of draining load your jars 2/3 full and pc them for 2hrs @ 15 psi.
Thanks for the info...
Spark
#15
Guest_rodger_*
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Posted 15 February 2005 - 09:14 AM
PC them on a pretty hot burner, but not 100% glow, 8 on the stove works good. You want a medium red glow of the burner. Get the regulator moving pretty good, but not flying off the pc. You'll see what i mean.
The regulator weight only moves when excess steam pressure is encountered. You want the weight to move as little as possible, because every time it rattles, water is being lost. A slight jiggle here and there won't hurt, but you NEVER want the weight to be rattling steadily. When the weight rattles, it means it's letting a large amount of steam escape. That means it's also letting a large amount of water escape too, and not just from the PC. Your jars are also losing moisture when the weight rattles. Additionaly, if you allow the weight to rattle like that when cooking agar, it will boil over on the inside of your PC and you'll have a terrible mess when you open it up. When the weight rattles, TURN DOWN THE STOVE!
A small amount of steam will begin escaping from the outlet about 1 PSI before the weight begins to rattle. At this point, adjust your stove so steam continues to vent very slowly, without steady rattling of the weight.
During a 90 minute PC cycle, you'll go from 'high' while you bring the pot up to pressure, then slowly reduce the heat all the way down to a 'low' setting by the time the time expires. Reduce heat slightly whenever the weight rattles. If there is no 'hiss' from steam, then increase the heat slightly. This will maintain 15lbs with little or no loss of water in the bottom of the PC.
It's also important to allow the PC to vent steam for ten minutes or so before you put the weight on. This overcomes the thermal inertia of the cold jars.
The regulator weight only moves when excess steam pressure is encountered. You want the weight to move as little as possible, because every time it rattles, water is being lost. A slight jiggle here and there won't hurt, but you NEVER want the weight to be rattling steadily. When the weight rattles, it means it's letting a large amount of steam escape. That means it's also letting a large amount of water escape too, and not just from the PC. Your jars are also losing moisture when the weight rattles. Additionaly, if you allow the weight to rattle like that when cooking agar, it will boil over on the inside of your PC and you'll have a terrible mess when you open it up. When the weight rattles, TURN DOWN THE STOVE!
A small amount of steam will begin escaping from the outlet about 1 PSI before the weight begins to rattle. At this point, adjust your stove so steam continues to vent very slowly, without steady rattling of the weight.
During a 90 minute PC cycle, you'll go from 'high' while you bring the pot up to pressure, then slowly reduce the heat all the way down to a 'low' setting by the time the time expires. Reduce heat slightly whenever the weight rattles. If there is no 'hiss' from steam, then increase the heat slightly. This will maintain 15lbs with little or no loss of water in the bottom of the PC.
It's also important to allow the PC to vent steam for ten minutes or so before you put the weight on. This overcomes the thermal inertia of the cold jars.
#16
shobimono
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Posted 15 February 2005 - 10:55 AM
Excellent advice Roger!
I would add that if you bought a pressure cooker and it came with instructions, READ THEM!
I would add that if you bought a pressure cooker and it came with instructions, READ THEM!
#17
Lazlo
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old hand
Posted 15 February 2005 - 01:46 PM
That's basically what i meant. You want it to be hot enough to move the regulator pretty good, but not off the charts. Sorry.
#18
Guest_i_am_me_*
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Posted 15 February 2005 - 02:22 PM
Also if you can't get access to a pc, grains are giving you trouble and you simply want an easy quick way to grow mushrooms maybe try the pftek.
http://www.mycotopia...icle.php?11.255
Its pretty easy to follow as long as you pay attention and you need no pc.
But if you are set on growing on grain follow the others advice. I'm simply letting you know there is another, somewhat easier way as far as not having a pc.
http://www.mycotopia...icle.php?11.255
Its pretty easy to follow as long as you pay attention and you need no pc.
But if you are set on growing on grain follow the others advice. I'm simply letting you know there is another, somewhat easier way as far as not having a pc.
#19
Lazlo
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old hand
Posted 15 February 2005 - 05:45 PM
Oh and by the way. The type of regulator i have on this pc is the kind that rocks. If the regulator isn't rocking, it's not maintaining the propper pressure. And yes, that's what the owners manual says.
#20
Guest_willchair_*
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Posted 11 February 2005 - 10:53 PM
i birthed 4 pf cakes (EQ) into my terrarium today. it is a basic rubbermaid, with a 3" layer of perlite. my hydrometer is showing temps of 70-71 and RH of 83-85%.
is the 85% humidity going to be a problem? i birthed the cakes after being 100% colonized for 3 days. pins werent visible yet, so i figured the exposure to fruiting conditions + light would hopefully promote pinning.. just not sure about the humididty. i'll try to fix it though.
also, my cakes look kind of dry. they shrunk up a bit while colonizing (innoc'd on jan 27th) and now seem a bit dry in the terrarium. they are sitting on slightly damp verm and have some of the same verm on top. would injecting sterile water into the cakes be a good idea to rehydrate them?
is the 85% humidity going to be a problem? i birthed the cakes after being 100% colonized for 3 days. pins werent visible yet, so i figured the exposure to fruiting conditions + light would hopefully promote pinning.. just not sure about the humididty. i'll try to fix it though.
also, my cakes look kind of dry. they shrunk up a bit while colonizing (innoc'd on jan 27th) and now seem a bit dry in the terrarium. they are sitting on slightly damp verm and have some of the same verm on top. would injecting sterile water into the cakes be a good idea to rehydrate them?
