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dunking (larger) casings


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33 replies to this topic

#21 siam_jim

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 01:24 PM

.i do the same tek as suckerfree

#22 OZ

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 02:50 PM

i hate dunking casings. i mist heavily

#23 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 02:56 PM

On of the reasons my FOAF prefers to add a casing layer is the ability to add a lot of moisture via misting alone. Dunking is a PITA.

#24 SIMBIOSIS

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 04:10 PM

DunKing works for me with casings.And i never used a fridge.I have no space left in there.
What i know from here around :48HOURS MAX TIME.I prefer 6 to 12 hours.
Dont mist after pins apear.:bow:

#25 encapsulated

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Posted 12 June 2006 - 01:25 AM

Mycelia will surely drownd in 48 hours i think the max is 24 hours and i am pretty positive about that!!! not to nit pick :) :lol:

#26 thunderbird

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Posted 06 February 2007 - 10:34 PM

hi guys,

have a 10"x10" casing which gave an excellent first flush. I suspected it was too big to remove from the container to dunk and so I dunked it by just adding water to the container it was in until it floated to the top, for 24hr. Now when draining the water i could see it was probably wise to not try and remove it as it is not strong enough to hold together and several large cracks appeared in it trying to get it flat in the container after water removal. I think it will recover okay, but might slow down the next flush (had heaps of pins come out while dunking).

So the question is how to dunk a casing that cannot be picked up and is this a big issue for the bottom casing layer which cannot be swapped out.

The casing material was 100% verm bottom and top.

kind regards
tbird

#27 waylitjim

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Posted 06 February 2007 - 11:22 PM

You could always saturate the casing really well from the top.

#28 eternalfrost

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Posted 06 February 2007 - 11:44 PM

only done it once but the last time a big caseing was done small holes were poked in the container and the whole thing was 'watered' with a syringe untill pins started forming then left alone. just kept pouring it in untill it ran out the bottom once a day. kept things saturated by sort of spreading it out rather then a mass dunk. worked well

i think theres some threads on it more in depth around

#29 Lazlo

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 12:55 AM

If you have an identical container to the one that the substrate is in, you can add enough water in the substrates container to submerge it and then set the empty identical container inside of the subtrates container with a weight in it so it holds the substrate under completely for the dunk. Then when the dunk's done, simply remove the weight out of the empty and then use the empty to hold the substrate in it's container for draining. See what I mean?

#30 thunderbird

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 02:12 AM

If you have an identical container to the one that the substrate is in, you can add enough water in the substrates container to submerge it and then set the empty identical container inside of the subtrates container with a weight in it so it holds the substrate under completely for the dunk. Then when the dunk's done, simply remove the weight out of the empty and then use the empty to hold the substrate in it's container for draining. See what I mean?



yes, thats not a bad idea. I have two containers both have substrate growing in them and they both had lids. The problem was draining the water and the substrate getting out of horizontal then not falling back into position without breakage. But i think the approach you suggest would overcome that problem.

thanks for that

#31 Lazlo

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 02:23 AM

Right. All you do is take out the weight and then stick your hand in the empty. Then start draining the substrate container while pressing down on the empty. By the time all of the water's drained out of the substrate container, the bottom of the empty will be sitting on the subtrates surface. Make sure to allow the empty to rise up from the inside of the substrates container some, or the empty may trap a little bit of excess dunk water by being to tight to the substrate containers walls. You'll see what I mean once you get doing it.

Geeze, that was a lot of container talk!

#32 Hippie3

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 08:45 AM

see http://mycotopia.net...923&postcount=1

#33 golly

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 09:54 AM

U can also fill a sink with water and float the sub out of it's tray,It's easy to flip em over without too much stress..a few hours on one side,then the other.
If you R doing multiple subs ,then a bit of chlorine in the water will help prevent cross contamination...
If your tray doesn't have a drain hole , u can lift it out by sliding the tray under the floating sub, upside down and fruit as a flat cake on the inverted tray...

#34 BuckarooBanzai

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Posted 08 February 2007 - 02:03 AM

If you start with Rubbermaid containers with tight fitting lids, you can just fill the container and put the lid on to hold the cake underwater. Just make sure you fill the container completely so when you push down with the lid water runs out (try to capture as litte air as possible, in other words.).




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