Replacable tyvek jar tek
Posted 08 February 2007 - 10:07 PM
What you need:
Dremel with grinder would help
I took a regular drinking water bottle and cut the threaded end off 1/8" below the lip where the safety seal is.
Using an xacto knife i cut a hole in the cap while it was still on the bottle mouth using the inside of the mouth itself for a guide. This is easier with a transparent cap.
I drilled a 1/2" hole in the top of a jar lid then brought it up to the size of the bottle neck with a dremel grinder.
Once the bottle neck fits perfectly in the hole on the lid I heated a pan on the stove at high temp and put a piece of foil to not damage the pan.
With the bottle neck inserted in to the hole on the jar lid so that the bottom of the lip made contact with the top of the jar lid I firmly pressed the neck on to the hot foil to basically make a plastic rivet. This should only take about 2 seconds.
I then cut a piece of tyvek the same diameter as the bottle cap and inserted it in to the bottle cap and screwed it on to my new lid assembley.
Presto. A replacable tyvek filter housing. I can crank the lid down nice and tight and there is no play. The plastic is literally molded on to the jar lid.
Now, i do not have a PC so i dont know how it will hold up to high pressure and heat but if it doesnt work out you can make this set up using a Monster energy drink aluminum bottle with aluminum cap and use rtv silicone to put it in place. I belive it is durable enough to take it as is. If anyone tries it with a pc let me know.
Posted 09 February 2007 - 02:06 AM
Posted 09 February 2007 - 08:59 AM
Posted 09 February 2007 - 10:02 AM
Posted 09 February 2007 - 10:24 AM
Posted 09 February 2007 - 02:05 PM
I do have one more concern. Was there a pp5 rating on the bottle. All my water bottles are only pp1. Look on the bottle for the recycled symbol. It looks like 3 arrows that form a triangle. If there is a 5 in the middle of the triangle it can be pc'd. If no 5 then it can't be.
Is that a FACT, or is it not?
I mean, if somthing dosen't have a 5, couldn't it still be pressure cookable, but MAY not work?
Whereas if it has the 5, then it is guaranteed to pressure cook?
I used a plastic container with no pp5, and it pressure cooked just fine at 10psi for a hour.
Posted 09 February 2007 - 02:46 PM
Maybe you should gather all the different types of plastic and start pc'ing them all. Post your data here. If they all work then great. My money is on the pp5.
10 psi is not the same as 15.
Posted 09 February 2007 - 10:19 PM
I think D8's reasoning is quite sound and along the lines of "PP5 is guaranteed and better safe than sorry with your PC." PCs are expensive. PP5 plastic is cheap.
Posted 09 February 2007 - 10:32 PM