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Lids that have stood the test of time.


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#1 fahtster

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Posted 24 February 2007 - 09:51 PM

:rasta:
This is a tek on making a lid that i've used for over a year now. it incorporates two kinds of tyvek... the kite makers tyvek (single piece in center) and tyvek envelopes (two outer pieces... top and bottom). it has TWO self-healing inoc. ports; one on the top layer and one on the bottom layer that goes inside the jar. the ports are positioned right on top of each other. So, for anything to get inside you jar, it would have to get thru three layers of tyvek and two inoc ports. It's damn safe. The best part is that the filter is controllable from 40% covered to 100% covered. just by putting tape over how much you want to allow. heres how to do it:

Get these materials:
-duct tape
-4oz jelly jar with just the band (no lid part needed)
-tyvek envelopes (this is paper like tyvek, where the kite makers is more clothlike... the kite makers is more quality but lacks in durability. it tends to twist when pressure is applied to the lid when you screw it on and off; but if you have two layers of post tyvek, it's rigid enough that it screws on and off like a regular plastic lid. ;) )
-kite makers tyvek (if you don't have this, it's ok... just use the two envelopes or put a third piece of the envelope kind in place of the kite makers)
-scissors
-Aquarium silicon

1. gather materials..

1.jpg

2. take your three pieces of tyvek (postal on top, kite in middle, postal on bottom) and stretch it over the opening to the jelly jar... try to get it as flat with no wrinkles as possible.

2.jpg

prepare your lid band by flipping the band over and taking a pliers and flattening that ridge on the inside of the band... this ridge, if not flattened, will cut into your tyvek if you screw the band on too tight...

80A3FC52-8267-48D8-ADFA-51D2F75F6FCD-2631-000002D304C7B87F_tmp.png

3. Screw the lid band over the stretched tyvek... should be tight like a drum now...

3.jpg

4. Now cut all the extra tyvek all around the jar except for an 1/8 inch flap all around...

4.jpg

5. take about 2.5 inches of duct tape...

5.jpg

and tear it in half...

6.jpg

we're going to use one half for attaching the top layer of tyvek to the lid band and the other half to tape the 1/8 inch flap back onto the lid band

6. put the one half of tape on the top down the center of the lid...

7.jpg

I start in the middle and firmly push the tape into the tyvek moving towards the inner edge of the lid band... this makes it so there isn 't a gap in the tape where the inner edge and tyvek meet. do that on both sides...

8.jpg

9.jpg

7. Now we're going to use that other half of the tape to tape that flap back up onto the lid band. do this by tearing the tape into smaller pieces like so...

10.jpg

heres the lid so far..

11.jpg

8. now take your lid and aquarium silicon and we're going to make the inoc. ports. might want to get some paper towel. ;) this is what
the silicon looks like...

12.jpg

9. Now we need to embed the silicon into the tyvek... if we just spread the silicon out on the tyvek without embedding it, air would get
trapped and the silicon wouldn't have the seal it should have. I do this by smearing a dab of silicon on ONE side of the tyvek on either side of the tape. the other side is going to be our air filter.

13.jpg

14.jpg

10. Now you can put enough silicon on the tyvek that you already smeared on to make a least an 1/8 inch thick inoc. port.. use something wet (i just use a really wet finger) and spread the silicon out so that it's even...

15.jpg

16.jpg

11. Now, carefully (watch out for the wet silicon on top) flip over the lid and smear silicon just like you did on top in the same spot under the inoc port on top on the bottom layer of tyvek. (so the needle goes thru both where ever to you poke it thru the top port) Do the same as you did on the top and put a 1/8 inch thick port on the bottom layer. BUT make sure you leave an 1/8 inch gap between the edge of the inside lid and the silicon. thats where the jar rim goes... keep this part free of silicon as much as possible.... the pic is kinda hard to see but it's there (silicon is clear. lol)

17.jpg

heres a better pic...

C60C6E5C-2D89-4D96-B9AB-27BAE3C9B464-3080-000003731F91158A_tmp.png

a finished jar..

18.jpg

Now let this dry for 1.5 days and it is done. :) you can reuse these many many times... they are meant to be used with master clone tissue grown on grain to preserve and extend an isolate like in this link... (there is actually a brief description of these lids in this tek link)

Faht's Oven Bag Clone Tek: REDONE - Mycotopia Web Forums

This is how I use them to extend myc. isolates.

Once I have a colonized 'faht jar' that i got from using the clone tek in that above link, I can do one of two things... use this myc right away to inoc jars or I can dry the grain (corn) out for later use. It's really easy to dry the jars out... just remove the tape from over the tyvek side on the lid... they'll dry out in two days. heres what the taped and untaped filter sides look like... (notice how there is just a sliver of tyvek showing on that taped one... thats so the jar isn't completely sealed up, which invites bacteria, but enough of the tyvek is covered so the small amount of grain doesn't dry out before it's colonized.)

PEs.jpg

so after I have a colonized faht jar, (dry or not) I'm going to pc a syringe (full of water with the tip submerged in water in a qt jar) and another jelly jar with 40 ml of just water topped off with new lid for 40 mins at 15 psi. (make sure you don't pc your master jar. lol)

jellysandsyringe.jpg

Now take the now sterile cool syringe and flame the tip... wipe the inoc port on the master jar with an alcohol soaked paper towel and
inject the syringe full of water into the master jar....

syringe in port.jpg

remove the syringe and gently shake and swoosh the kernels around in the water to knock the myc off into the water. heres the water in the jar...

jartilt.jpg

water after swooshing for a couple minutes (try not to shake water onto the tyvek on the inside of the lid... no need to shake it that hard really... it'll take a second if your kernels are dry before the myc attached to them starts breaking off into the water, needs to soak for a minute)....

F89502A8-7B2A-4C29-9263-727AA7680BA0-3080-0000037431479030_tmp.png

now flame your needle and wipe the inoc port again and retrieve the myc water... you will only get about 5 - 6 ml of water back from your 10 as some water gets stuck to the kernels and just doesn't come out. but thats normal. heres the myc slurry... it's suuuuuper thick but extremely finely shreaded. ;)

syringe1.jpg

syringe2.jpg

now take that 6 ml of myc and transfer it to that other jelly jar with the 40ml of water in it and you have a jar of 45ml myc water that you can draw from to do your jar inocs. :) :thumbup:

and even better yet... you can retape the filter on the faht jars that you used when the grain was hydrated and the myc will start growing back to be used again. AND if you use a dry faht jar, you can also REHYDRATE and use again... just add 10ml of sterile water via syringe to your dry faht jar and the corn will reabsorb the water. the myc. will come back out of 'hibernation" and start colonizing the rehydrated grain... this is a jar of PESA's that i just used again after like 6 or 7 months maybe... it was dry but then i harvested the myc and rehydrated the corn and it plumped back up and its white as ever!!

hydrate.jpg

basically I can take any one of these isolates...

allstrains.jpg

and, in one PC'ing and round of inocs, make enough pure cultures that can be hydrated and dried out at will and can be stored at room
temp in a drawer somewhere to last me well over a year.

yearssupply.jpg

I haven't had a single problem with these lids since i started making them. :)
And, this is just one design... you can accomplish just about any tcriteria with tyvek, tape, a lid band and silicon... it's fun to play around with. The main thing with these lids is the three layers of tyvek, the two inoc ports on top and bottom, and the filter control. hope this helps others like it does me. :D

fahtster

Edited by coorsmikey, 09 March 2017 - 11:28 AM.
Fahtster Rocks!

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#2 fahtster

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Posted 24 February 2007 - 10:00 PM

heres a teaser to some Koh Samui's that are just coming in that were done with this tek...

ks.jpg

:)
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#3 Guest_greysRDbest_*

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Posted 24 February 2007 - 10:01 PM

very nice thread thanks for sharing that fahtster:bow:

#4 bugs

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Posted 24 February 2007 - 10:05 PM

Shit, man. That is some super information. Not just the lids, but all the rest too.

#5 Guest_vinz_*

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Posted 24 February 2007 - 10:06 PM

awesome faht!:bow:

#6 TheJackal

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Posted 24 February 2007 - 10:14 PM

Awesome write up and tek, as usual!

#7 Roasty McToasty

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 12:22 AM

very nice. :bow: learned alot from this tek. THANK YOU for sharing. :headbang:

#8 Toads tool

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 06:48 AM

Nice write up.

I like how you mentioned the flattening of the inner ring of the band to prevent damage to the tivek.. I've cut some pretty nice circles before I stumbled onto that conclusion. I turn my rings upside down and tap them with a hammer to flatten that sharp inner ring.

#9 maliki

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 07:59 AM

For sure thats a nice solution to a common problem..
I may try that for some of my lids..

#10 fahtster

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 08:35 AM

thanks yall! your encouraging words is what keeps me posting my ideas. :thumbup: hammer is a great idea! thanks. :)

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#11 Doctor D

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 09:30 AM

Faht,

I love your lids. I've been using your older instructions for my popcorn jars, and they've worked perfectly. I like your addition of the painter's tape. I've found that painter's tape works much better and leaves less residue behind wherever masking tape is called for.

Thanks again for your teks. They have been instrumental in my success.

#12 Sidestreet

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 11:03 AM

Bad Ass. I will surely use this info, thanks!

#13 izzbizz

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 05:27 PM

fahtster, is that black tape around the outside, lower part of the tub? If not, what's a good way to prevent pinning underneath the substrate (in a clear tub)?

#14 fahtster

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 09:15 PM

:) glad i can help, Dr. D.

izzbizz: thats actually a black garbage bag that is unfolded but not expanded
(get two ply thickness that way) and just layed down and the whatever is put in that and the excess is trimmed away. :) should do the trick for underpinning. foil is the worst thing you can use... so stay away from that. ;)

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#15 StroFun

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 10:00 AM

foil is the worst thing you can use... so stay away from that. ;)

fahtster


That is because the myc pulls the metals into the fruit bodies correct?

#16 fahtster

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 02:24 PM

well... more cuz it channels light down and under the substrate causing the substrate to pin on the sides and underneathe on the bottom. :) but yeah, foil pans that are used to fruit substrates in will get eaten away by myc. eventually.

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#17 izzbizz

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 06:35 PM

thanks Faht. F.O.A.F has seen foil used before, so he's glad you said something. Also, F.O.A.F assumes placing cakes on opaque plastic lids or something similar would also work (w/ hydroton underneath in place of perlite).




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